• Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About GorgTech

  • Rank
    Just Getting Started
  • Birthday December 31

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Billiard, Modding, Reading Stuff.
  1. Update time again! I´ve removed the integrated Fan Controller a while ago and nearly forgotten about it. I don´t really need to use it since most Fans are connected to the Mainboard. Well, all except the 80mm Fan which is optional for the second chamber. I´ve adjusted the Fan Controller. The 80mm Fan can be supplied by a voltage of 5V, 12V or turned off. 5V is already enough for a quiet operation but I´m sure that I can adjust the voltage even lower. The resistor drops the voltage by about 0.5V. Not too nice but functional. I have less cables to hide too The 80mm Fan is only there to prevent the SSD of heating up too much during a hot summer. Aquatuning sent me some extra Goodies since I´ve forgotten to add some parts needed for the Water Cooling to fit inside this case. Such a small case can be tricky and requires some extra thinkering around. I´ve forgotten to shoot some group pictures of the gear I got but nevertheless I´m going to show you the extra stuff. I´m not sure if I´m going to use UV fluid or not and I wanted to have a suitable alternative. Just use some distilled water? Well, this might work but Phobya ZuperZero Clear 1000ml sounds like a better idea to me. I also got some Alphacool HF L-connector G1/4 outer thread rotatable to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome which helped me to solve my problem with the reservoir. Since the second chamber is pretty stuffed, I had a harder time to figure out how to mount the ball valve while avoiding the cables etc. And this is how the second chamber looks right now. Now here´s the deal, the SSD issue with the text and emblem which would have been displayed the wrong way, rotated by 180° had to be modified one more time. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel by eg. trying to create a plotted Text which would look strange since I don´t know which font was used by the manufacturer, why not try to restore the original looks again? I made a label with the right dimensions by using a high resolution picture of the product as a basis, printed it on high quality photographic paper and attached it to the SSD. In conclusion I think that it looks better this way too. The reservoir is dark, the power supply too and now the SSD again. The flow indicator is mounted before the input port of the reservoir. I had to use a Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome for this purpose. The yellow side is better in the end since it´s easier to spot and also fits the color of the PCBs used for my RGB Controller pretty well. The ball valve also fits inside the second chamber. I used a Alphacool Eiszapfen screw plug G1/4 - deep black as a safety measure since I´ll have to transport this project later. This way I´m pretty sure that the fluid will stay inside the system and the ball valve won´t play any tricks on me Did I mention that there´s barely a distance of a few mm between the Plexiglas and the screw plug left? This is why I couldn´t use a regular L-connector. Barely any space left, just have a look at how close the stuff is mounted next to my RGB Controller. Last but not least I also got some Alphacool tubing AlphaTube HF 13/10 (3/8"ID) - clear. I wasn´t sure if I want to use glossy looking tubing or something else. The other tubing looks a bit more elegant. Just a matter of taste. And now attach the side panel. The reservoir got a small and shiny emblem which looks like polished copper. It´s better than having to stare at a large and dark block? Let´s connect some tubing in the other chamber too. Quite a tight fit. I´m not sure if I´m going to use some L-connectors in the end. For now I tried one Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome which looks nice. Let´s attach the 240 Radiator. The 120mm Fans could easily hurt your fingers, this is why I decided to use 2x regular 120mm Fan Grills. I also got 2 of these: Fan Grill for axial fans for 120mm - Chrome These regular Fan Grills are still better than the original Fan Grill which I had to remove with the Dremel Clone. Let´s use some more of these nice M5 Torx Screws, even if you don´t see the Fans That´s it for now.
  2. And I got another nice package. I want to thank GOODRAM for the kind support and for the trust. Let´s unbox this thing GOODRAM? Looks more like "Good-Yumm" A nice treat is great in order to perform the remaining modifications. Wait, there´s more! One 16GB GOODRAM IRDM DDR4 RAM KIT. These modules have a frequency of 2400Mhz and 15-15-15 Timings. The RAM Coolers are white and look great in combination with the Mainboard. 16GB of RAM is plenty for this project. Let´s build these puppies in. And there´s another Goodie inside. A nice 240GB GOODRAM Iridium Pro SSD. Just have a look at the Specifications. Let´s unbox this SSD. The design is clean and simple. I won´t need the adapter because this SSD is not mounted into a Notebook. Now here´s a tricky part which triggered my OCD: I cannot mount the SSD the way it is because the Text will be rotated by 180° which looks irritating. I´ve already shortened the SATA power supply cables and cannot stretch them too much. The SATA cables for the SSD are also too short and this is why I had to figure something out, how to fix this problem. Let´s use some force and sanding paper in order to remove the coating. Brushed metal and shiny enough. Attach one of the included emblems. I will have a "Iridium Pro" Text plotted at a later time and attach it below the emblem. I use 1x 3,5" to 2x 2,5" adapter because I wanted to adjust the position of the SSD to my taste. The adapter prevents the SSD from being mounted too far on the right which would have destroyed my window design. This adapter also allows me to use a extra SSD at a later time. You want to keep this Project upgradeable, don´t you? Since the threads of cheap adapters tend to break easily, I´ve expanded the holes and used M5 Torx screws and nuts. This method looks awesome too There are no vibrations at all. The M3 screws used by the SSD have also been replaced by shortened M3 Torx screws. Maybe one small detail to other people but I want everything to look as uniform as possible. The silver SSD is easy to spot and attracts the eyes. Btw, did I mention that Iridium looks somewhat silver too? Silver + Black is a great combination. I cannot repeat this often enough.
  3. http://goo.gl/ly2RFc

  4. http://tinyurl.com/husv432

  5. http://goo.gl/nALHFj

  6. http://bit.ly/2aKYtbc

  7. It´s time for another big update. Let´s start with this nice package. I want to thank Asrock for the kind support and for the trust. There should be some awesome stuff inside A nice Asrock Z270 Taichi Mainboard. Let´s have a quick look at the most important features since the full Specifications are too much for this worklog. Features: ASRock Super Alloy Supports 7th and 6th Generation Intel® Core™ i7/i5/i3/Pentium/Celeron® Processors (Socket 1151) Supports DDR4 3733+(OC) 4 PCIe 3.0 x16, 1 PCIe 3.0 x1 AMD 3-Way CrossFireX™, NVIDIA® Quad SLI™ Graphics Output Options: HDMI, Display Port 7.1 CH HD Audio (Realtek ALC1220 Audio Codec), Supports Purity Sound™ 4 & DTS Connect 10 SATA3, 3 Ultra M.2 (PCIe Gen3 x4 & SATA3) 2 USB 3.1 10Gb/s (1 Type-A + 1 Type-C), 9 USB 3.0 (4 Front, 4 Rear, 1 Vertical Type-A) Dual Intel® Gigabit LAN Intel® 802.11ac WiFi ASRock AURA RGB LED Nice Specifications, high quality components and I´m sure that overclocking with this Mainboard will deliver great results. Just check the contents. Quite a lot of stuff inside. I like the 4x SATA cables which should be enough for most users. Some Mainboards only contain 2x SATA cables. And the usual device drivers, instruction manuals which are needed in order to connect eg. the Power and Reset Buttons and some stickers. That´s a strong packaging for the Mainboard. Black & White design. The color scheme used is great inside the black case. White elements like eg. the gears look awesome. Too bad that this design will be covered by PCIe devices later. One last look before I mount the Mainboard in the case. Not much to say. Next I had to figure out, how to connect the cables with the Mainboard. I had to shorten nearly all cables because I don´t have much space left in the second chamber. I need 3x Molex connectors for the pump, white LEDs, the RGB controller and the RGB LEDs. That´s one example. All other cables look similar after the modification. The same goes for the cable extensions used with the Fans. Here´s just one example. The shorter cable is the modified one and looks exactly like the stock cable. Several hours later. The second chamber is stuffed and it would have looked a lot worse with longer cables. Let´s mount the 120 radiator and the Sound Card. The 240 radiator will be mounted later when I connect the Water Cooling Loop. Barely visible cables. The shiny Fan Guard looks awesome the way it is. This case will also include one Slim Bluray Drive with a 5,25" adapter. I had to modify the rubber grommets in order to prevent the hoses from kinking . Just cut some parts and glue them together. Still not convinced that there´s barely any space available? Finally I got the ordered glass. Well, it´s slightly shorter but I´ll improvise a little. And this is how the glass is supposed to look like in order to fit inside the case. The result. Does it look industrial enough? And here´s a picture of the case, the way it looks right now
  8. I received another package. I want to thank Creative Labs for the kind support and for the trust. Let´s have a look at what´s inside. A nice Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR Sound Card. Having used a simple Realtek Onboard HD Audio Codec for the past years, I have high expectations. That´s the flagship of the ultra high-performance Sound Blaster Z-Series and it looks awesome too. I´m sure that it fits well together with my project. From a technical point of view it´s nice to use with my DIY Valve Amplifiers;) I could show you some pictures of these too if you´re interested. Specifications: Audio Technology: Sound Core3D Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 124dB Max. Channel Output: 5.1 Channels Platform: PC - PCIe x1 Connectivity Options (Main): Headphone: 1 x Amplified 1/4" jack Speaker Out: 2 x RCA (L/R) 2 x 3.5mm jacks (Rear,C/Sub) Microphone In: 1 x 1/4" jack Connectivity Options (Accessory) DBPro Daughter Board: Line In: 2 x RCA (L / R) Optical Out: 1 x TOSLINK Optical In: 1 x TOSLINK Audio Technologies: SBX Pro Studio, CrystalVoice, Scout Mode, Dolby Digital Technology, DTS Connect Encoding Microphone: Microphone Type: Dual-array Noise Canceling Condenser Beamforming: Yes (Built into Audio Control Module) Frequency Response: 100Hz to 20kHz Sensitivity: -37dB Sound Performance: Audio Fidelity: Up to 24-bit / 192kHz Studio Attributes: ASIO: ASIO 2.0 Included Accessories: Audio Control Module (with Beamforming Microphone Built-in) Recommended Usage: Gaming, Home Entertainment, Pro Audio, Recording Supported Operating Systems: Windows® 10, Windows® 8, Windows® 7 The components are packed in separate boxes. There are also suitable cables included. The Sound Card has a nice EMI shielding and features golden connectors. The DBPro Daughter Board looks similar and shares the same design. Both Sound Processors have a small cooler attached to them. And here´s a simple envelope. What´s inside? 1x optical Toslink cable, 1x instruction manual and a CD with Software and Device Drivers. This Audio Control Module can come in handy. It´s nice to use it in order to swap through the In- and Outputs without having to fiddle around behind the case and also to adjust the volume. It also includes a built in microphone. 3.5mm plugs with extra 6.3mm adapters. The golden coating looks nice. I´m going to test the items later as soon as the PC is finished. The Sound Card includes high grade Opamps which can be swapped for other models if you feel the need to experiment. That´s a nice feature for audio enthusiasts. Just remove the EMI shielding and use a antistatic mat in order to prevent electrostatic discharges which could damage the sensitive hardware. You need to be patient and careful in order to remove the Opamps from the sockets. The built in New Japan Radio NJM2114D Opamps are very good, however I had some LME49720NA Opamps from older projects laying around. Having compared the datasheets of these ICs, I decided to use the LME49720NA since these have slightly better specs, at least in theory. It´s not really necessary to change the Opamps but since I have these slightly better ICs, why not give them a try? And it´s done. I´m going to store the other Opamps in case I have to insert them again. Here´s another picture. I like the looks and I sure hope that the sound experience will be awesome too. There´s still a lot to do until I can finish this project.
  9. It´s time for another update. I received this nice package these days. I want to thank Cooler Master for the kind support and for the trust. What´s inside? Let´s perform some Unboxing. Plenty of Cooler Master MasterGel Maker elite thermal grease. I like this thermal grease since this one is considered to be the best you can get these days, like many reviews can confirm. This amount of thermal grease will be more than enough for many other projects too. I´ve used this thermal grease for other purposes too. The package also included some nice bonus items like eg. a Cooler Master keychain, some nice emblems and some Cooler Master blankets. The most important component was a Cooler Master V550 Power Supply. Features: - Fully modular cable design - Powerful and small at the same time - Silent Silencio FP 120mm Fan - 80+ Gold certified - Up to 92% high efficiency - 100% japanese capacitors for a extended lifetime and minimal power fluctuations Specs: Model: RS550-AFBAG1-EU Type: Intel Form Factor ATX 12V V2.31 Dimension: (W x L x H) 150 x 140 x 86mm Input Voltage: 100-240Vac (Auto Range) Input Current: 10 - 5A Input Frequency Range: 63 - 47Hz PFC: Active PFC (>0.9 typical) Power Good Signal: 100-500ms Hold Up Time: >16ms Efficiency: 90% Typically MTBF: >100,000 Hours Protection: OVP/UVP/OPP/OTP/OCP/SCP Output Capacity: 550W Operation Temperature: 0~40°C Regulatory: CE/FCC/UL/TUV/RCM/BSMI/CCC/EAC Fan: 120mm Silencio FP Certifications: 80 Plus Gold Connector: M/B 20+4 Pin Connector x 1 CPU 4+4 Pin x 1 PCI-e 6+2 Pin x 2 SATA x 6 4 Pin Peripheral x 3 4 Pin Floppy x 1 This small Power Supply is perfect for this project and looks nice too. Some more Unboxing. I´ve used a Cooler Master V1000 Power Supply before which is still built in my Modified Desktop PC. Let´s have a closer look. This small Power Supply is available in 550W, 650W and 750W. 550W should be OK for this project though. The Power Supply and the cables are packed separately. A cloth bag protects the Power Supply from scratches. The cables are stuffed into the bag next to it. You also get some cable ties and 4 screws. There´s not much to say about the cables. I like the idea that these are black and I don´t have to use sleeves on them A small Power Supply which will hopefully do the job as expected. 100% modular designs are a must have in this case in order to save as much space as possible. The built in Fan is silent. I guess the cooling will be awesome since the Power Supply gets fresh air from outside of the case. And here´s a look at the Specs and efficiency again. This is just a short description of the Power Supply and not a full review since this one would be too much for a worklog. From the looks of it, it´s a nice Power Supply which also looks great inside this case. Let´s mount this Power Supply inside the case. Now you can see that this case is not as big as it might seem without any hardware inside? In fact it´s a small case which requires some thinkering around. There is a gap of about 3cm between the reservoir and the Power Supply. It´s just enough to insert the cables and to bend them a little. Quite a nice back. And how would this Power Supply look behind bars? That´s it again. I´m still waiting for the ordered glass in order to finish the second side panel.
  10. Here´s another update. My plan was at first to glue the glass together with the Aluminum side panel but I had my doubts if this was a good idea. You need a strong mechanical tension to attach the side panel to the case which would have stressed the glued parts. I´m going to use scratch resistant Plexiglas but I didn´t receive the ordered material yet. Let´s use screws instead of glue, 37x M3 screws will do the job just fine. I´ve also improved the edges with sanding paper and now these are 100% smooth. Since I need to consider the space used by the Plexiglas itself, I had to cut some parts out of the frame. There is no other solution since the old position of the USB Ports made me cut that far on the left side in order to remove the holes. I´m also stuck with 3mm thick Plexiglas in order not to touch the reservoir. Inbus screws might look odd because of their height. Let´s use some nice Torx screws made of V2A instead which are shorter. These Torx screws look better and it´s good not to mix multiple types of screws in the visible areas. I´m going to keep the longer black M3 screws used for the USB Ports and for the CMOS Reset Button. Not too bad, eh? Just don´t forget to change the remaining Inbus screws too. I might paint other parts of the case too but for now I gave the 120mm Fan Grill a nice silver coating. Black + Silver is a good mix. There´s still a lot to do and I lack many hardware components. That´s it for now.
  11. I took care of the side panel this week. I smoothened the edges and made sure to make the edges visible, the same way I did with the Aluminum front. The new slots look similar too. Now I need to grab myself some glass to play with. I´m not sure if I´ll use regular glass or makrolon. I really like the covering for the toggle switch and the potentiometer. You can still see plenty of the RGB stuff and the circuits itself. That´s it again, soon I need to continue with the hardware components which are going to be used in this project. I still need many parts I don´t have yet.
  12. Time to work on some serious details. Let´s have a look if the 120 Radiator fits. I don´t want to alter the shape of the case too much. Well, to be honest I´m not a huge fan of external Radiators, that´s the reason why I want everything to fit inside the case. The black Fan guard looks great on the Radiator as well and also offers some protection. The black screws are awesome too. I swapped the screws of the 140mm and 80mm Fans for bulkier M5 Inbus screws and suitable lock washers. These little details improve the looks of the visible Fans through the Aluminum front. It´s a nice industrial touch as well. Quite a nice combination. I had to adjust the Aluminum front again. The cabling looks great and I had to cut some openings in order to prevent the Aluminum front from touching the screws. The cables won´t touch the lower 140mm Fan. My philosophy is strict: all projects should be designed in such a way that they are easy to repair. What would happen if eg. the pump fails? I would have to remove the mainboard in oder to release the screws of the reservoir and to take it out. This is a worst case scenario but I don´t want to risk it at any times. There is a more intelligent way to solve this problem without having to remove too many components. I decided to cut some sort of door in order to release the screws which hold the pump attached to the reservoir. Cut the opening with a Dremel Clone. Just use some scrap material I had laying around and build a few parts needed. This door should not vibrate at any times. This requires a good and simple lock mechanism. 2x M5 domed cap nuts are great for this purpose and also easy to attach and to remove. Quite a strong contrast but I don´t care. This door is practical and that´s the main reason I made it. Next was the second side panel again. I started with 2 openings for the SSD or HDD I will use later and the reservoir. That´s not the final look of this panel and I spent further time to draw the remaining openings. Having spent quite some effort on the second side panel, it started to look really awesome. Just have a look at the shapes which fit great the shape of the side panel. Modern with many angles and edges, just the way I like it. The openings for the power supply Fan are great but not 100% up to my taste. Just remove some extra parts. I guess you know where this is going. These slots look a lot better to me. This is how the power supply Fan could look like through these slots. This looks promising enough in order to see enough of the stuff used in the second compartment. I will grind the edges later with a file and sanding paper. Just a short test. I won´t use the old HDD visible in this picture in the final build. There is still some space left between the slots and the SSD or HDD window. Maybe I´ll cut another window or a nice logo inside. That´s it again for this week!
  13. Time for another update. I had these 2 Aluminum knobs laying around for a while. 1 of these was shortened with the Dremel Clone. What will I use one of these for? I had to modify my RGB control unit again since I purchased another RGB Power LED and had to adjust the circuit for higher current again in order to prevent it from burning. This unit now supports some extra modes for adjusting the speed of the colors too. The toggle switch lets you choose 2 extra speed modes which allow you to set every desired frequency of the colors. The circuit board found a nice space in the second chamber. I´ve adjusted the cabling of the RGB LEDs once again since I had to add another LED. In case you´re wondering, what happened to the joist in the lid, I had to modify it in order for the 120 Radiator to fit inside the case. 2 RGB LEDs are better than 1 The second chamber gets some extra light too. Let´s sleeve some of the cables with some black sleeving material I had laying around for a while. Not bad, eh? I don´t care about the other cables which were used for the LEDs and are not black. It´s OK this way in case I have to repair the lightning. You never know if these LEDs don´t fail after a while. I had to adjust the second side panel by drilling holes for the Aluminum #### and the toggle switch. Not smooth enough? Not a big deal since I´ll cut some windows later and take care of the rest. In order to fill the reservoir without twisting your fingers too much, I made myself a little helper and a proper hold for it out of some spare Aluminum material. A old drawer handle turned into a DIY M5 knurled head screw. This little screwdriver can come in handy Since this tool was made for this Project only, it´s only fair to find a suitable spot for it inside the case. Here´s another RGB V2 Video for your viewing pleasure. Now hit me with comments! That´s it for now.