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pinout thermaltake ring 12 rgb controller

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16 replies to this topic

#1
diablo13

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hi

 

can someone give me the pinout from the thermaltake ring 12 rgb controller the 5 pin headers and also the single 5 pin port on the other side off the controller


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#2
ThermalMike

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Hello,

 

Unfortunately this is not something we normally provide.

 

If you need the pin outs for modding, I suggest to get a voltmeter :)

 

Now if a community member has the details and replies that is up to you if you want to use the info.


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#3
diablo13

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hi mike

 

indeed i want to mod the controller i hate it i must everytime open my case to change color or to set my fans on lower or higher rpm why thermaltake not make something to use software for the controller with a usb port the second thing is that not all my 12 fans are sync must find some thing out that i have the controll for all the 12 fans with 1 button so i want to sodder a push button on the controller and make all the 4 controller togheter you think it will work :) ?



#4
Daz

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Quoted from karel1710 on the audrino.cc forum:

 

"The pins are like this : (from left to right) 
1 - speed (high low)
2 - stop/start (when the rgb loop is running)
3 - switch between the 4 predefined colours
4 - seems to be ground
5 - haven't found out yet"

 

I have since used this info and modified my rig.

 

The functions of my two controllers can now be activated (in sync) by the press of a button, located on the front panel of my H15 case.

 

FYI - the spare 5 pin connector uses a Mini JST 2.0 socket. I used this to tap into the controller http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

...and these are the buttons i used http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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#5
diablo13

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looks good i think i wait for the new controller that thermaltake is making i hope it will come soon but thanks for your info



#6
diablo13

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witch cable is the tacho signal from te 5 pins fan ?



#7
Daz

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I would guess it to be the middle pin.



#8
diablo13

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job done 9 fans sync with only 1 controller and i can change color on the front off my case see the thermaltake Facebook site to see my video :)

 

regards pascal



#9
AmmerBo

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I can't find your post on facebook my friend. Maybe they deleted it. Can you post it here?



#10
Daz

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I can't find your post on facebook my friend. Maybe they deleted it. Can you post it here?

 

https://www.facebook...25758950841082/

 

 

job done 9 fans sync with only 1 controller and i can change color on the front off my case see the thermaltake Facebook site to see my video :)

 

regards pascal

 

How did you go about doing this in the end? I am guessing that you didn't wait for the cable from Thermaltake  :lol:



#11
diablo13

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how you mean that ?



#12
azzy5463

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maybe someone could give a little information, maybe a guide on how they have managed to control multiple fans with just 3 buttons? I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate it.



#13
Killswitch73

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OP .How are you controling the PWM signal ? Or are you only doing the speed by using the Aqausuite software ? I'm already using the standard none RGB none PWM fans in red through my aqua computer controller and I have to change the speed through the software or the provided remote . I would like to connect my 9 fans together and have the PWM so it ramps up on its own the hotter . I have ordered 3x3 boxes giving me 9 fans and 3 controllers . I only have 2 X PWM on my godlike motherboard and me too I have 2x 480mm rads . Will use spare as a exhaust at rear like yourself op .

#14
pamarakos

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Hi all

 

Can somebody tell me if there is one pin from the 5 pin connector of fans that supplies voltage only to the leds? Or is it shared with the 12v fan?

 

Thanks



#15
spyderdyne

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I also need the pinout for the 4 pin header on the north (opposite the 5-pin fan connectors) side.  Already fried a controller and it takes almost a full week to get another one.  I have this thing wired up to a molex and have tucked the unused signal wires into the shield that came with the cable.  

 

16508827_1386285278079866_24417686521842

 

Only +12V and Ground are in play.  On the 4 pin connector as it sits in the controller looking top (side with the buttons) down I have the following left to right:

 

4 - left - not used

3 - left center - not used

2 - right center - +12V

1 - right - Ground (striped cable)

 

You could save everyone a lot of trouble here by using cables with the standard IEEE color scheme, although I am sure these all black ones are cheaper.  I am following online pinout guides like this one.Please let me know before the second controller arrives.  This is such a minor part of my project that I am already regretting choosing your products since apparently you have decided not to document them any more.

 

 

Thanks.



#16
spyderdyne

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I also need the pinout for the 4 pin header on the north (opposite the 5-pin fan connectors) side.  Already fried a controller and it takes almost a full week to get another one.  I have this thing wired up to a molex and have tucked the unused signal wires into the shield that came with the cable.  

 

16508827_1386285278079866_24417686521842

 

Only +12V and Ground are in play.  On the 4 pin connector as it sits in the controller looking top (side with the buttons) down I have the following left to right:

 

4 - left - not used

3 - left center - not used

2 - right center - +12V

1 - right - Ground (striped cable)

 

You could save everyone a lot of trouble here by using cables with the standard IEEE color scheme, although I am sure these all black ones are cheaper.  I am following online pinout guides like this one.Please let me know before the second controller arrives.  This is such a minor part of my project that I am already regretting choosing your products since apparently you have decided not to document them any more.

 

 

Thanks.

I believe I had it upside down.  Plugged it in the other way, and although I have fried the control portion, nothing is melting or popping any more.  Apparently the way I had it was connecting power and ground to the signal RPM & PWM pins, which is why the PWM chip exploded. ;)

 

I used a multi-meter to continuity test the 5 fan pins and using another online guide I determined that there was continuity between the fan side pin 2 and the pin on the other end of the connector.  Moving the bottom pin in that image to the top slot and moving the +12V pin right next to it seems to be the correct answer.  Maybe I shoudl buy a second spare just in case though.

 

;)



#17
spyderdyne

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Here is the answer.

 

Thanks.






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