ThermalMike

I just installed the 360 into my Core P5 case.  The height is exactly 16 inches with the plug in the bottom or 408mm.  5 inches (127mm)wide and 3 1/2 inches (88.9mm)deep including the fans mounted to it. I bought the Pacific RL360 kit http://ttpremium.com/product/pacific-rl360-water-cooling-kit/, so the fans are the riing 12, there are 3 of them.
The height at 360mm is not including the intake and output on the top of the rad. 360mm is the size of the actual rad itself for cooling.  
Hope that helps!

Hi the-jackyal,
The one you bought "Toughpower Grand RGB 850W" is our analog power supply, if you would like to use the digital software "DPS G PC APP", I will suggest you to buy Toughpower DPS G RGB 850W Gold. You could see the following link for more information
Product info: http://www.thermaltake.com/Power_Supply/Toughpower_Series_/Toughpower_DPS_G/C_00002917/Toughpower_DPS_G_RGB_850W_Gold_/design.htm
Buy link: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Toughpower-256-Color-Warranty-PS-TPG-0850FPCGUS-R/dp/B01I157UAS?th=1

Hi,
Are you talking about the Armor Series cases?
Contact us here from our USA site and we can try and help:
https://thermaltakeusa.zendesk.com/hc/en-us

Hi,
Honestly it does not matter, I have done it both ways. If I had to choose and based on this with the Tower 900 in my exp, I would use the bottom as the IN and the top as the OUT to give you better room for your tube runs.

Hi,
Thank you for the video, from the video that you provided, it sounds normal. That is the pump noise, it does not sound like it is defective to me.
Maybe different if I was there, no sure.
If you are concerned about it, just swap it with place of purchase or warranty it with us.

You should be fine as long as you include proof of purchase, if you need, just email them again with the info.
Please see the OP for details.
Hope you get the replacement soon.

The "SUPERBUILD" Case Mod
Hello to all, 
As most of you know, in year 2011 I build a “Phase Changer Rig” . An extreme overclocking rig. Capable to cool down the CPU below -38C. One of its kind in India.

It was a complete scratch build using MDF board and aluminium square rods.  Till date case is in good nick, only thing I did wrong was not to cover sides of lower phase changer section. 
Nothing bad, but recently due to absence of the side covers I accidently mange to damage the condenser and brook a copper tube. Resulting in a complete failure of the phase change unit. 
Now this has to be fixed. But this MDF case is about six years old, so I said to myself the fixed phase change unit defiantly needs a new and safe home now.  So my hunt for a suitable case began. 
As I have recently worked with few of Thermaltake cases, the first option came in my mind was the Thermaltake Core WP100 Super Tower Chassis.  A two chamber case perfect for my needs. 

After going through the datasheet and checking dimensions, the Thermaltake Core WP100 Super Tower Chassis fits best for this super build giving new life to my 24/7 extreme overclocking Phase Changer build. 
I called the new Case build as SUPERBUILD. Where CPU will be pushed to extreme limits at sub-zero temperature and I will also overclock the GPU using custom liquid cooling . So this build will be a super overclocking beast. 
Like to thanks Thermaltake for supporting my idea and the build. 
First the Thermaltake Core WP100 Super Tower Chassis arrived in two big and heavy boxes. One box had the Core W100 and other the Core P100.  Both are individual cases by themselves, but stacking them together makes the monster Core WP100 Chasis.  







Now let’s un-box the cases. We start with Core W100.











Case build experience with Thermaltake Core W100 Chassis is unique as this case is not like other cases in the market. As mostly all Pc cases are pre factory build and came ready to be used out of  the box but not this one.  Thermaltake Core WP100 Super Tower Chassis comes in de-assembled bits and pieces, with proper labelling and complete build guide. So one have to assemble this case piece by piece.  A total do-it-yourself experience, a priceless experience for me. 
Beside all side panels and structural parts, the Core W100 case comes with a big accessories box, with lot of screws, for build the case together .













Now un-box the second half of the Thermaltake Core WP100 Super Tower Chassis, the Core P100 case.





Now let’s start the build.







The Core W100 and P100 stacked together to form the Core WP100 Super Tower .



This is a huge case with superb build quality.



All side panels are hinged with no panel screws what so ever. Also case have a big side window with thick acrylic sheet.








I have installed a custom mains power connector back plate.




Now repaired the phase changer unit. Replaced the condenser coil and re-filled the gas. Tested all working fine again. Now started installing the phase changer unit in the bottom section of the case i.e. P100. Everything fits perfect. Now next step will be installing a new controller and re-doing of all the wiring and all new Neoform insulation part.  



Waiting for some parts to arrive. Will update more 
Thanks.

Hi,
Ohh I thought you had the case locked in. If you are looking for a new case, try to go with a mid tower that can support a 360mm AIO, will go a long way for you in cooling over the 240mm.
If you wanted any recommendation, check out the View 31

Hi,
It is designed to give you options and that is what it offers.
This case does support the use of mounting the PSU in the bottom chamber and the 24-pin is not much to worry about unlike the EPS cable for the MB. For this we included an extension EPS cable in the box with the case just for this reason.
With the option to hide the PSU completely and the cables, nice modded extensions really give this case a nice clean look.
I dont think it is that big of an issue, I take it you dont have the case to tell and I understand.
Also good to check your PSU cable lengths when planning on a chamber design case of this size, cable lengths do vary.
Thanks for the feedback.

Hi,
Welcome to the forums!
Personally, I want to ask, have you thought about diving into a AIO cooling option? Better clearance and performance for the most part.
From the design of that case you have, a 240mm AIO should fit nicely on the top.
Here is an example: http://ttpremium.com/product/floe-riing-rgb-240-tt-premium-edition/

Hi,
When you are using the link cable between the 2 controllers, you need to set the dip switch on one of them (Since you have 2 only)
Does not matter what controller number, 1/2 is what I would do, but it does not matter just to mention.
This should clear up the syncing as I am betting both controllers are setup as #1 and the software is confused.
In regards to the USB headers, the connector gives you 2 cables out, you can alternatively connect 1 controller to each as well (This way it only takes up 1 USB header off the MB)
If you have both controllers set to profile 1 then they will both be the same always. If you want each controller to do do separate speeds/PWM settings, just set each controller to separate profiles.
 
Let us know if you need anything else we can assist with.

Hi,
Thanks for posting up, I am from the USA office so I will do my best to give you some assistance.
1. You should use copy color for the light mode for fans 2-5 so they can sync to the same thing and all you have to change is just fan 1 as part of the feature. Do not forget to save either once you set the new value or the next time you reboot it will default back to previous.
2. The temp reading has been an issue we are trying to resolve. Please also update to version 1.1.3 and check (On our Website)
3. Fan speeds will vary, they can go above 1500 too, from your pic, turn off PWM and select performance that is how you max out the fan speed. With PWM on, it will still be PWM controlled based on the pre-set table built into the software.
4. Single fans are coming to other regions, but I am not sure as to when, we current sell single packs on our Global TT Premium Store:http://ttpremium.com/product/riing-plus-12-rgb-radiator-fan-single-fan/
5. I have not see the features disappear like you say, update to the latest version and and test again.
6. As for the Android App I will ask our HQ about it, I currently use it on iOS and it works fine.
 
PM me if you need any further assistance, maybe something is defective, happy to help.

Hi,
Please try connecting the Riing Plus Controller cable to the motherboard's USB 2.0 Header directly and let us know if that works.
I would also suggest to contact our USA support (If in USA) to see about a replacement controller.
https://thermaltakeusa.zendesk.com/hc/en-us
 

Hi ThermalMike,
Can you tell us when we will have a new version of the software?
Regards

Hi all,
We are working on a new update and are monitoring this thread for the feedback you are providing. We should have an updated version to release soon which will also include new LED modes and other features.
Please when you have any issue, let us know your motherboard (Part Number) as we are trying to recreate these issue to find a solution.
-Mike

What controls came with them?
1) 
 
 
2) 
 
If you bought the 2nd controller, you must:



 
Choose TAB 2 in the software
 

 
 

thank you sir... for your consideration! I resolved the software issue... and will pass on the cable...  thanks Mike... so you can move on, nothing to see or sync here... thanks!

I just installed version 1.1.1 and so far it seems that all the bugs have been fixed  

Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback on the Riing Plus Software. We are working on new versions already to have some adjustments from what we have found.
Feel free to drop in any feedback on the Riing Plus software and will take a look.

Hi,
Took a quick measurement of the Riing Plus controller.
L x W x H - 2 7/8" x 2 1/2" x 3/4"
Riing plus is larger and more "square shaped" than the other controllers. The Riing Premium Fan controller is the smallest.

Thanks for the feedback on the View 31, we have been getting great feedback from everyone already.
We are also just getting started with the View Series, so stay tuned for more!
Keep an eye on our LIVE Stream for Computex 2017, I think you guys will like what is coming

Happy to hear any ideas or feedback for anyone!
PM me anytime and if you got a good one, I will send you something cool

UPDATE:
Received my new riser cable today, installed it and tested it. So far it's not causing any problems. *Fingers Crossed*
The cable I received -> None of the above actually. It's sort of the cheap one, with a different lock and no thermaltake branding what so ever... What I did notice was the black top layer is pasted on with adhesive, which came off straight away with the smallest amount of bending. (installed the cable in my core P3, and both ends have the black end parts loose reveiling the cable underneath, not sure if this will cause problems but I feel it's cosmetic at this point).
Will keep you updated if anything changes.
Special thanks to @ThermalMike for his quick replies, really sped up the process.

Thanks ThermalMike,
I have some ideas Thermaltake can use(PM me and i will give you the one i think everyone will like).
I have been liking Thermaltake a lot lately, and hope to purchase more for the start of my business.

Hello markukx
Welcome to the forums! I will be happy to help you out on this and see if we can get those LEDs to power up.
To start things off lets make sure there is not a problem with the LEDs on the fans themselves. To do this can you connect the controllers to the PSU using the provided molex connection. This will provide sufficient steady power to rule out the variables from the fan headers themselves. If you are able to have all the LEDs turn on from there then we know that the controllers and fans are good to go.
From there once you have verified that the LEDs on the fans can power on, can you advise what power setting you have for the system fan headers in the BIOS? I have seen that sometimes if the BIOS settings for the fan headers is set to low then the controller is not provided with enough power to light up the LEDs themselves. If this is the case then you can always set the fan header to receive more power so that the adjustments will be made through the controller and not the fan header. One easy way to tell without going into the BIOS is if the fans are set to low speed and they seem to be hardly running or shut off then you will most likely need to make some changes in the BIOS for the fan headers. Hope this helps you out on resolving the issue. Let me know if there is anything else you might need some help with.