Tte Martin

The Core P3 will fit your GPU, just be aware it might stick out a bit and cover the area in front of the radiator a little bit (by about 2cm). This is important because it might collide with the reservoir but it should probably fit. However, it might become difficult when you go SLI. Below you'll find a photo of the Core P3 with the Strix 980Ti (30.5cm)

They pull in the air on the side with the Thermaltake sticker so if you want to change the direction, you have to install them the other way around

Hello,
you can find Thermaltake products at most major etailers, like SCAN, box, Eclipse, CCL, Chillblast, FiercePC, AriaPC and many more. When it comes to the water cooling parts, you are somewhat more limited. I would recommend checking out SCAN, box or watercooling.co.uk for that. We are working on bringing better availability of the Pacific water cooling products to the European market. Thanks for your interest in our products!

Pyrrhus White-Ra Edition with autographs of White-Ra, Grubby, HasuObs, Socke, Stephano, Mvp, NesTea and seleCT
 

Hello Thermaltake fans! I just want to share my latest project TT Core P5 ROG Edition. thanks!
-Intel Core i7 6700k
-ASUS Maximus VIII Formula
-Galax GTX1080
-Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB 
-Samsung 850 EVO SSD 240GB
-Thermaltake Toughpower 850W PSU
-Thermaltake Ring 12 Fans
-Custom Liguid Cooling

ok so I have progressed on my build and I have designed a handle for complete the right side.
 

 
this handle has to been define to guide the rubber tubing inside and permit to orient it to the bottom of the reservoir
 
 
 

 

 
I have compared the result with the handle placed on the middle or on the down position and I think I will keep the last solution
 

 

 
Like this, I think I will can start to paint all the parts of the weapon

Thanks Martin....if I'm going to cut it that close, I'll just go P5.

Might be worth mentioning that the X9 can fit up to 23 case fans, if you so desire

Pinned this thread, great writeup!

Good Time of the day everyone!
 
I would like to share my own experience of connecting Riing RGB fans together in 1 controller.
This guide will divide in two parts: One of them is how to connect 4 fans in 1 controller, using only your hands and pin extractor (or any thin tools like needle). Second part will be about connecting up to 6 fans using same tools as in first case plus 4-pin Molex cable and electric tape (or shrinking tube or soldering iron + tape).
 
A little Preface:
 
Why I decided to divide in two parts? The answer is very simple. MB in most cases provides 12V @1Amp. Usually it will run up to 3 fans at max speed without any drawback (loosing RPM). However in some cases you can connect 4-th and you won't notice any difference. 
 
 
Firstly, (too obvious) power off your PC. (Don't forget that you are doing at your own risk, this is not official Thermaltake guide)
 
We need tool to extract pins from the head. You can use basically anything thin enough to fit a little hole on top of the head.
I used this tool: 
 

 
The idea is very simple, we need to extract pins from one head and insert them into another head, so there will be two fans goes into 1 4-pin head. There is enough room to fit 2 wires in 1 head slot.
 

 
See little holes? Press on them and pull wires. Very simple.
 

 

 
Do you see that there is enough space in the socket? We need to insert each extracted wire into proper slot. It would go snug and fit secure. 
 

 

 
 
At the end we will get this: 
 

 
 
Done! Just plug it back to controller and you are good to go! 
 
Video to demonstrate: 
 
https://youtu.be/jn-x7rH3Pwg
 
Second part! 
 
Connecting up to 6 fans. 
 
We have to follow same process as before, BUT the big difference is that we need 4-pin molex cable. 
 
How it works: 4-pin PWM MB port has 4 pins (oh man, thanks Cap. Obvious!) 
 
You can see pinout below: 
 

 
We will utilize power from Molex cable (it's peripheral cable goes directly in PSU) and PWM signal from Motherboard. 
 
From the power cable, which goes with fans, you need to extract only two pins +12V and GND .Other 2 leave in the head.
 
Extracted pins you need to connect to molex +12V and GND correspondingly.
 
Here is pinout: 
 

 
Just in case: MOLEX has 2 grounds and it doesn't matter which to connect. 
 
 
What we'll get at the end: 
 

 

 

 

 
Just plug PWM to 4-pin MB fan port and Molex ... to molex, lol. 
 
No video yet, but it works
If you'll have questions, don't hesitate to ask. Maybe I just forgot to mention something... 
 
Cheers!

Foreword Hello, my name is Dirk from PaYFrog Customs and today I want to show you what I figured out while playing with the controller of the Thermaltake Riing RGB fans for my Thermaltake Core P5 mod. The controller you receive whit the fans has a lot more potential than you would think.
 
Open the controller Before we are going to use the controller for something it is not intended for, we should know what is inside of it. So I first opened it to know how it is looking inside. To open the controller, we have to unscrew four PH2 screws in the corners of the controller.
 
The interior The interior has a very simple design. On one side of the circuit board we can see five pin headers, three for the fans (5pin, red), one for the power supply and PWM signal (4pin, green) and one for the optional connection cable (blue). Also, we see two mosfet (purple) for the circuits of the controller. On the other side of the circuit board we can see three switches and one status LED. We can set the controller’s functions with these switches but this isn’t the only way to do this.
 


 
Functions of the board Let’s take a look at the two mosfet. One of them is for the 5 Volt supply of the LED controlling unit and the LEDs. The other one for the supply of the fans. Both circuits can be set with the switches on the other side. One of the switches will set the fans to performance or silent mode, you can see which mode is activated if you´re looking for the status led. The other two switches will be used for the lighting of the fans. You can set the programmed colors or the “rainbow†mode with the first one. If you’re using the rainbow-mode, you can pause it with the second switch, so you can show any color permanently. There is still one problem, if you restart your pc you have to set them again.
 
Fan connectors Pinout We have three pin headers for the fans. They looking quite similar to other fan connectors, but they are very different. The first thing we can see is that they got five pins. The only two pins that are similar to other connectors are the first and second pin („GND – Pin 1“ and „12V – Pin 2“). The last three pins are used for the LED controlling. The only thing I found out for now is the pin for the 5V supply, I can´t figure out which one is the data pin or what signal they are using to control the LEDs („Pin 3 – Y“, „Pin 4 – P“, „Pin 5 – 4,5 - 5V“).
 
Max. tested fans/channel I for myself was running 3 fans per channel, that makes me running 9 fans on 1 controller. I had no problems with it. Of course you shouldn´t supply that with your motherboards fan header, so we will change the power supply for the controller. Unfortunately, this also gets rid of the PWM signal from the motherboard but we’ll get that back later with a little trick.

 
Construct the splitter It is really simple to build a splitter. We are going to split all pins to get more connectors. Likewise, a normal y-Splitter.
 
 
 
First step: You need 3 headers for the fans.

 
Step two: Be sure that they can’t touch each other to avoid damages and short-circuits.

 
Step three: Bring them together at one connector.

 
 
 
 
External buttons to set the controller You can use external buttons to control the light and speed of the fans. In my case I disassembled the pin header because I do not have the right material to plug something in. To show you how it works I will connect three buttons and make a video. The video will be uploaded in 2-3 days.



 
Power supply for the controller Configuration We want to use more than 3 fans at the controller, that means we have more than 3 fans at the fan header on the motherboard. I don’t want to damage anything and connecting more than 3 fans to one fan header on the motherboard should be avoided to prevent damage. I spliced the cable of the power supply in order to prevent damages. In that case the motherboard is used to regulate the fan speed only.
Construct the cable This is the simplest job of all. You have to trim the sleeve a little bit and change the connector for the 12V and GND. I for myself have added a normal Molex 4 pin connector for an easy plug and run.
I´ve done this because I want to control the speed of the fans, but I didn´t want the motherboard to power all of them. I have extracted the 12V and GND only from the original connector so that we still can use the rev counter and the pwm signal of the controller to connect them to the motherboard. This is a usual setup at pwm pumps for a water cooled setup. Now we´re ready to go, the speed control can be set in the bios of the motherboard and the power supply is managed directly from the psu.

 
 
Closing words I hope you can understand all this. I did this because I did not want 3 controllers on my Mora3. I don’t regret it, but you know it´s your own decision if you want to do the same. If you have any questions feel free to comment and I will do my best to help you.

another worklog:
 
and finished product!
 

 
 
THANKS TO THERMALTAKE!

I'm new here, but I've done a few builds from time to time...
    Short summary   Here are the specs:   Supermicro X10DRG-Q 2x E5-2699 v4 (44 cores/ 88HT) (3.7ghz turbo) 512GB ram DDR4 2400mhz  ecc reg (QUAD SLI) 4 Titan X SC 2x Samsung NVMe 950 Pro pcie 3.0 (os drives) 10x Samsung 850 Pro SSD RAID (apps drive) LG 31MU97z 4096x2160 true 4K rev C modded P5 case, Noctua heatsinks Digital power supply 1600w Windows Server 2012 R2 Data Center, Ubuntu 15     Fully functional Board allows use of all 7 slots while using 4 sli cards   Using 2 NVMe 950 Pro   Will be putting one pane of glass on the front   Runs quiet and cold   Build pains, tweaks and optimization are to come   Case was heavily modified to accommodate HUGE motherboard, power supply, and the equivalent of 11 pci slots   Had to come up with a way to hold and keep cool 10 ssd 850 pro drives     Nothing, absolutely nothing was easy about any of this     Anyhow enjoy some pics     Opinions?                       I'll put the glass pane on the side tomorrow   Ok cinebench score   Ok read and write score   the board has no audio jack on the back, but does have the standard HD header   The board has audio, a'97, and HD7 Audio is alive and well, and gaming   I used the HD out and mic in   I made a custom output to the connector on the board, I put audio in and out on the back of the case spine, green and pink, see picture  

Hello IceStormers,
 
currently, we can not offer spare parts for sale in Europe yet. We are working on making additional parts available as soon as possible.
 
The Core W100 and P100 will be ready for pickup and shipping at SCAN Computers by the end of this week.

That's an extremely close call and I would not recommend it. However, we offer an optional bracket for AiO support.
 
Here is the version that is coming to stores (made out of steel): http://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Accessories_/_/C_00002826/Core_P5_AIO_Bracket/design.htm
This is a slightly different version that you can print yourself if you have access to a 3D printer: http://3dmakers.thermaltake.com/dwgallery.aspx?s=16

You don't need the adapter. The TV mount seems to be quite flexible and in the specs is says "VESA compliant" (Supports all VESA patterns from 100 x100 to 400 x 400). You need to make sure your PC does not weigh over 80 pounds with this one (which should be difficult unless you load it with rocks) and you should be fine.
For maximum stability, I'd suggest using the outer holes of the Core P5 (200x100).

The mounting holes in the Core P5 follow the VESA standards 200/100/75 x 100/75. The tv mount you linked only seems to have vertical holes down to 200mm according to its specifications (although it looks like the holes are closer together than 200mm). If that's the case, you can only screw in two screws and that is probably not safe enough.
Basically, you can use any VESA tv mount that supports the listed hole distances and the weight of your PC build.

SO Hello everyone, I am never really finished with a project, but I would like to dare saying that for the time being, I am finished with the following project.
A big thank you goes out to Scan, Bit-Tech and Thermaltake, as well as all those involved in getting
this first UK trophy up and running. Thank you for including me and giving me the chance to compete against those 4 top guns here.
 
PODII, THE STRONGHOLD, yes thats the name of  this case which should portray strenght and stability.
lets put it this way, you could drive around with it in the boot at a 100 miles an hour and this baby wont budge ot tilt or give in to the centrifugal forces. it stands like a cliff against the tides. very sturdy steadfast and rock steady. you cannot just knock it over.
I wanted it to be broad shouldered, bulgy and bulky and decided to  build it more in the breadth than hight.
After sliceing the case diagonally down the middle, I set the bottom half into the POD (which actually means power on demand for me) and built the whole extra caseing around it. I used certain parts of the corex31 case too for the radiator fittings, hdd holder and panels etc..
 
I decided pretty quickly to modify the case unconventionally and stack the two 240er radiators in the case with heads up jutting out like two bumpers with fans and air intkes in the front.
by the way the whole case is of course built so that each and every par can be detached, fixed, rebuilt or simply unmounted for maintenance etc..
 
After recieving the Thermaltake chrome parts I decided that chrome was to be omni present every where. The  card screws and display knobs are all covered with chrome parts left over from the jean buckle chrome tops which i used togatehr with the modified gardene fittings and chrome pipes for the overall deco set off.
 I decided to go with matt black and set it off with the shiny reddish dark crimsony type red metalic like on the maninboard and SSD. that made me tinker araound with inking up the ptherwise very poppy red TT coolant to get the same tone for the water, as can be seen in the reservoirs which are placed on both sides like gatlin guns slung low.
One thiong was quite certain from the start, that I was going to make the pipes look a little more bulky and strong looking by covering them with this spring spiral tubes form teh local garden warehouse.
 
Seeing as i dont use automation and have to make each and every part in painss taking hand work, it was as usual hard getting both side equally symetrically precise. but I like proving that its possible.
Most of the red plates hide inirect leds underneath. I only took red ones and they have an effect module which can control three channels and make em blink, fade, flash and flicker to music as well as in certain preset effects too.
 
Thanks to Thermaltake for sending me extra tubes because i really had more than usual here, i needed 3 packets of flexi tubing to get both loos curled around the case in and out and working the was i want.
 
The rear hatch hold two fans just like the side fans too. the side fans have been mounted in a way i have never seen done before. they are not screwed in, they are just slotted in and click into place diagonally. Hence, they can be slid out and cleaned or replaced too at will by unscrewing 2 screws to take the fan covers off.
The rear hatch is magnetically clicked on and has plates with leds as well as 2 hanlde grips to hold it.
 
Up left on the perch is an HD webcam wich can be pitched and yawed to the required angle at will.
 
I even slid in a Thermaltake HDD and USB 3.0 quickdocker into the lower left side for quickly accessing temporaray data. The Hyperbeast SSD in placed at the left of the mainboard.
 
I made the fan holders at the side in such a way that when looking at it while standing in front of it, they look like stern eye brows frowning at you.
I integrated the switch and usb and audio panel in the front and the whole front can be unscrewed to open and fix if needed. The front should look a little like a fast car front.
 
All in all, that was just about it, Of course I could go on and on describing how I did what, but now will let some preliminary final pictures tell the tale. Just for the record, its the POD II with an own name called THE STRONGHOLD because I also made a POD 1 which can be seen here too.
The first POD was a totally different design and compared to this one a real tiny one. but it had power too. This one casta shadow over it as far as size is concerned though.
 
I hope you all like it.
 
PODII, THE STRONGHOLD



 

Reminds me of an anthill with all the tunnels

Hello erec and welcome to the forum!
 
While the stackability is a signature feature of the cubic Core X# series with single digits, (X1, 2, 5 and 9), the double digit Core X## series (X31, 71) features tower cases and is unfortunately not stackable. However, the Core X71 has an extra compartment at the bottom to hide your power supply and place up to two radiators by default.

Looking forward to this one

I have the corsair h100i, and I used it for my CPU. caveat to that, tubing is about 300mm, and it would not go all the way across, I have mine perpendicular to the vents. however!... there is stupid crazy open space everywhere. if you can't reach those vents, pop the rad on its side and you have limitless airflow options

this is done
 

 

 

Hello Paul,
 
the Core P5 does unfortunately not support any optical drives by default.

Great detailing on the sabertooth cover!  Just the right amount of color I think.    I have the same board, and am presently working on adding neon green accents to mine.  You are lucky the blocks on the video cards are already white! I will have to paint mine to match my color scheme.   Keep up the great work!