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TT RGB Plus V2 Error: "Can not detect controller, please check that the fan controller is connected."


Zgoly

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19 hours ago, Tony.P said:

Dear User

Could you provide your fan products? Riing Quad or Riing Trio.

May be you can try to send TT RGB PLUS 2.0 log folder to us. Following this tips: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f4vu78intz2bbdi/TT RGB PLUS Debug Mode.docx?dl=0

 

The computer was not assembled by me, but as far as I know, this is a "RGB Riing Plus". Also, how can I send the "TTRGBPlus2.0" folder to you?

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I managed to get the software to detect the system settings again but completely uninstalling the TT RGB software, manually deleting the remnants in the installed folder, rebooted, reinstalled the software, and rebooted again.  At first it also recognized the controller but then stopped recognizing it once the system went to sleep but then woke.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 5 months later...

This piece of crap has been doing this since I purchased your POS equipment. It's integrated into my build and I cannot/will not destroy my other work to pry your garbage out of my system.  I have 2 Ring+ 20cm fans. Each came with a controller. They work for a little while then they don't.  I swap between the two controllers (only one installed at a time) If they work in the first place and then fail and force you to open your system up and replug the connectors to get it to recognize the controller again with NO garantee it will see it again when you reboot your computer it's a goddam manufacturing problem. Cheap aluminium connectors that develope even the slightest corrosion breaking contact with the controller and forcing you to replug the same connector into the same port over and over again. No other component does that. I've been building PC's for 40 years. This is the worst crap ever foisted upon the unsuspecting public in all that time.

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  • 1 month later...

This is a software issue. I have 2 AIO Units for Ryzen Threadripper and TR Pro CPUs, the software DID work initially but then stopped. If I uninstall it and then reinstall, sometimes that fixes the problem but for the most part it goes back to not working properly. The controller issue not able to be detected has been this way for YEARS. YEARS!!! No kidding. You all know about it and haven't done anything that actually works. Time to take the entire thing back to base code and work it. Seriously....  If you think you know a stable version that works, let me know. I'm running the latest version of Windows 11 with Asrock TRX40 Taichi and ASUS Pro-WS-WRX80E-SAGE-SE-WIFI. I refuse to take apart my computers to pull the USB header off and then back on to "See if it will work." That's not the problem. It's worked in the past so no I'm not doing that. I've heard something about newer controllers or other controllers that were given to people as replacements -- THAT DIDN'T WORK EITHER. It's a software issue. Please give us something that works. If it's a USB thing how hard could that be to get it to recognize?

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I also do have the problem that the RGB Controller that runs 3 Toughfan 12 RGB and a DP100-D5 Distroplate looses connection to the RGB Plus Software.

 

So when I turn on the computer the MX2 Waterblock, R2 Monitor and 4x Toughram DDR5 start using the color profile that I defined while the toughfans and the Distroplate go on in RGB waves as they do when I turn on the computer. 

 

I have changed the USB slots of the motherboard (ASUS ROG Strix Z790E) as well as the USB-C connector of the cables to see if it is an USB issue. 

 

My questions are:

- can I preset the components controlled by the motherboard (MX2, R2, 4x Toughram DDR5) and the ones controlled by the RGB controller (3x Toughfan 12 RGB, DP100-D5 Distroplate) so that the RGB is shut off when I start the computer and then only start coloring when RGB Plus Software kicks in?

- how can I make sure that the RGB Controller does not loose connection to the RGB Plus software once in a while?

- how can I make sure that the MX2 and R2 are shut off when the computer has shut down? Currently they are still showing liquid temperature even though the other RGB components are down?

- how can I permanently flip the MX diaplay (as I had to install it upside down - see picture) and not only through the RGB Plus software, because when I turn off the computer it still shows liquid temperature but upside down (see picture)?

- how can I rotate the R2 image to horizontal permanently as I build it in horizontal and not only in the RGB Plus software, because when I shut off the computer it still displays temperature when all RGB components are down, but it is rotated by 90 degrees (vertical image)

 

Thanks for you help

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  • 1 month later...

I'm getting the error and on top of that when I look at the RGBPlus Software, non of the PC information is showing up.  Absolutely fed up with this.  Spent good money because of the videos and everything I have seen from this company and it's just garbage and there seems to be no sense of wanting to help from them.  My issues first started with my Toughram lighting control ceasing to work with the toughram software.  Thought switching to the RGBPlus app would change that since it was new.  Nope!  Same crap different app.  Tried numerous attempts at completely wiping all traces of TT software losing over a years worth of data from the PSU application only for it to not change anything.  Besides the case, I wouldn't recommend a single piece of hardware that uses this application.  

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  • 2 months later...

I am currently experiencing this exact same problem on a AsRock x670e Tachi Mobo for AM5 that the TOUGHLIQUID Ultra 360 All-In-One Liquid Cooler is connected to.  Was working just fine in April and May of this year, 2023, and then sometime in June it just stopped working and shows only the default image/info of the liquid temp in the AIO loop.  Would love a fix because I bought this simply to have temps displayed.

TT RGB PLUS Failure.PNG

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Some interesting observation I made (by the way, some of the issues I was able to solve for myself, for example the 180 degree rotation of the MX2, which I solved mechanically). 
 

All RGB will switch to my preset when I turn on the computer and the TT software kicks in. However when I just work on the computer (e.g. video editing or anything else) the tough fans and the Distroplate that run over the controller loose connection and switch on RGB Rainbow (which I absolutely hat). The Toughram and displays (MX2 and R2) stay on the preset profile. 
 

Interestingly while I am gaming the controller does not seem to loose connection and all the components remain in my preset profile. So for me it seems some kind of USB issue under Windows that the Controller cannot handle. 
 

other fun story. Two of my four Toughram did not work anymore from one to the other day. The system could not recognize them anymore. 

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  • 1 month later...

Same thing happen to my swafan ex. As you can see all my fans in white untill i start playing COD MW2 game and my swafans turn to rainbow color. I X out the TT RBG PLUS app and reclick it sometime it say same thing like SailorRalph posted pic.( cannot not detected controller). When it doesnt said cannot detected controller i click apply back to all white light it still doesnt work. Only way it go back white is i restart my computer. Thermaltaker ya have to fix this issue or else nomore thermaltaker products for me and all my friends in the future.

IMG_2438.JPG

IMG_2441.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

This product is absolute dogshit. I wasted good money on something that looks pretty but doesn't function. Why on Gods green earth would you think that USB 2.0 is better than the standard ARGB or 4 pin connector.

Installed and reinstalled the software multiple times unplugged it and plugged it back in and it still doesn't work. Now I have to take it to a pc repair place and spend another 100 bucks to see if they can fix your POS Product. I will never buy anything from TT again. You've wasted my time and money.. Maybe 'll just #### on the fans then burn them. It would make a great tik tok 

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  • 1 month later...

Solution!!! And it's working. Need a USB-to-Usb Micro cable. You connect USB to 3.0 on the case / back of the motherboard, connect the other to the controller. The controller is initialized in the software, fully functioning and continues to work even at maximum CPU/GPU loads. The disadvantage of this method is only the external connection leading to the housing.

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On 10/31/2023 at 2:32 PM, ZZII said:

Solution!!! And it's working. Need a USB-to-Usb Micro cable. You connect USB to 3.0 on the case / back of the motherboard, connect the other to the controller. The controller is initialized in the software, fully functioning and continues to work even at maximum CPU/GPU loads. The disadvantage of this method is only the external connection leading to the housing.

Did not work for me. I just tried the same thing, but still after a while the RGP components that are on the controller loose their connection and turn from the preset setting (e.g. all white) into changing RGB color. While gaming this does actually not happen, so I assume that this is not a controller issue but some USB interruption in windows that causes the problem. I just don't understand what that is and why it is not happening when I am running a game.

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18 hours ago, AxelBerger said:

Did not work for me. I just tried the same thing, but still after a while the RGP components that are on the controller loose their connection and turn from the preset setting (e.g. all white) into changing RGB color. While gaming this does actually not happen, so I assume that this is not a controller issue but some USB interruption in windows that causes the problem. I just don't understand what that is and why it is not happening when I am running a game.

Setting up power in Windows usually helps to fix this. I also advise you to try different USB ports and make sure that the power supply supplies enough power. In my case, after buying a new 1200W Aurus power supply, the problems due to static electricity also disappeared.

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17 hours ago, ZZII said:

Setting up power in Windows usually helps to fix this. I also advise you to try different USB ports and make sure that the power supply supplies enough power. In my case, after buying a new 1200W Aurus power supply, the problems due to static electricity also disappeared.

Thanks for the feedback. Can you tell what settings I would need to change? In regards to USB I can only find the switch to shut down USB when computer goes to sleep, which is however not the case.

In regards to power supply I have a 850W power supply but I assume that this is not the issue as the connection is lost when I am just cassualy working on the computer (no big load) but stays online when I am gaming (highest possible load). 

 

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  • 4 months later...

2024 and still this problem exists?  I installed the pacifica a2 ultra ram waterblock with LCD screen - connects to usb; no go.  Same no hub error.  Seems to have enough power to show the TT image and display the ram temp...  why do Thermaltake's software bundles never work?

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Dear EZ_Cowboy,

Thank you for choosing our product. 

Could you click on LIGHTING and help us check if the software detects the LCD screen?

See below:

image.png

It would be really helpful if you could also provide a screenshot.

Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the same issue because i do not use RGB fans.  I have a TT Level 20 mouse that i am trying to change the RGB for but i can not get tot he mouse options because this same panel is in the way and will not go away.   Does anyone know how to bypass this warning so i can change my mouse settings?

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