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No, at least not without some surgery.

It could be done , but it's not a turnkey deal. The plastic top and front come off - legs look like they could come off, and it looks like they can be flipped around just based on symmetry of mounting holes. However the interior bottom of the case is solid, the top is open. You'd need to cut out the bottom and transplant in the top (new bottom) and ensure you can get it structurally sound afterwards.

If viewing pleasure is all... Would be easier to take the right side glass off, set it down on it's right side and enjoy as a large glass monitor stand or inset into a square cut into your desk:)

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On 3/21/2020 at 4:12 PM, Niclas said:

Dear friends,

 

I am proud owner of the V71. One question: Where can I change the setting so that the computer starts with the low fan setting instead of the high fan setting?

 

Best regards,

 

Niclas

Need a little more information about your setup, but I'll assume you're at least using the included Riing fans and controller.

As long as you've 1. selected low speed on the physical controller and 2. the system runs fans in low speed after booting into your OS, the controller is working. What you're likely experiencing is the motherboard BIOS sending full PWM signal to all headers during POST. This is normal behaviour for most  systems. If it really bothers you that fans run full for a few seconds, My recommendation is read the motherboard manual and look through the BIOS settings to see what control you have available.

Otherwise, if it just stays stuck on High after each reboot, you have a faulty controller or PWM from your Motherboard to the controller is whacked out somehow. Could be bad controller / bad cable/ bad header, etc... try different controller, different cable, different header to isolate issue. I know that's easier said than done, but that's troubleshooting 101... isolate the route cause.

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20 hours ago, Craiginator said:

Need a little more information about your setup, but I'll assume you're at least using the included Riing fans and controller.

As long as you've 1. selected low speed on the physical controller and 2. the system runs fans in low speed after booting into your OS, the controller is working. What you're likely experiencing is the motherboard BIOS sending full PWM signal to all headers during POST. This is normal behaviour for most  systems. If it really bothers you that fans run full for a few seconds, My recommendation is read the motherboard manual and look through the BIOS settings to see what control you have available.

Otherwise, if it just stays stuck on High after each reboot, you have a faulty controller or PWM from your Motherboard to the controller is whacked out somehow. Could be bad controller / bad cable/ bad header, etc... try different controller, different cable, different header to isolate issue. I know that's easier said than done, but that's troubleshooting 101... isolate the route cause.

There were no controller or ring fans included. This is the one I got, Thermaltake Core V71 TG: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B074B5M45H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whenever I boot the computer or take it out of rest mode, it sets itself on high fan. Then I need to switch on the case to "low fan". I would like to change it so that it always boots on low fan. I checked the BIOS and there were options about Smart Fan, but that did not change anything. 

Thanks for your help!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/24/2020 at 6:21 AM, Niclas said:

There were no controller or ring fans included. This is the one I got, Thermaltake Core V71 TG: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B074B5M45H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whenever I boot the computer or take it out of rest mode, it sets itself on high fan. Then I need to switch on the case to "low fan". I would like to change it so that it always boots on low fan. I checked the BIOS and there were options about Smart Fan, but that did not change anything. 

Thanks for your help!

Looks like you're posting with the wrong audience.... you have a 'Core V71'. This thread is for 'View 71'. Different case, different fans, and we have a specific controller included with the case. Try searching for a Core V71 group or posting in a general thread.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A few days ago I asked everyone here if turning the fans from exhaust to intake would work better and everyone uniformly responded with "Intake!"

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28419716

Well, I did my own testing and found that both rads as intake is 4C hotter GPU core, 5C hotter on the GDDR6 and 6C hotter on VRM / MOSFET within only 20 minutes (stability not reached).

I recorded the testing.
 


Testing methodology:

I performed two 20 minute runs back to back starting with 25C on the GPU and 66-67F ambient (21C and fan speed @ 40% RPM, unchanged, for both runs, I induce full load on the GPU (in this case 95%, not sure if it's a CPU bottleneck or RTX but this game doesn't go up to 99% with 8700k @ 5.0 GHz) and I run around the Caspian Sea in Metro Exodus all settings maxed (RT: High) @ 3440x1440. Temps start out good, around 40C but slowly ramp up over time. I alt+tab around the 10 minute mark both runs and pull up Hwinfo64 (still recording) to check the temps on what's not shown in RTSS (memory, hard-drives, Sabrent Rocket 2TB M.2 PCI-E that is mounted directly to them motherboard sitting below CPU socket, above GPU).

The only thing that changes between the runs is that on the 2nd run I revert all of the fans (6 on the PE 360, 3 on the SE 420) to push-pull OUT of the case / exhaust and the rear 140mm fan reverted to intake.

2nd session has the same ambient and same starting temp on GPU.

Data:

All rad fans as intake, rear 140mm fan as exhaust

10 min mark:
Sabrent Rocket 2TB: 52-55C
2x16 G.Skill Trident Z Royal Memory: 51 and 52C
CPU VRM MOS: 43C
GPU: 46C

20 min mark:
Above mostly unchanged but now GPU core is 49C, one of the banks of memory is at 52C and GPU VRM / MOSFET is at 49C!

All rad fans as exhaust, rear 140mm fan as intake

10 min mark:
Sabrent Rocket 2TB: 30C!
2x16 G.Skill Trident Z Royal Memory: 35 and 41C!
CPU VRM MOS: 36C
GPU: 43C

20 min mark:
Above mostly unchanged, GPU is now 46C on core, 47 on that same bank of MEM1 that was 52C, and 43C on GPU VRM MOSFET!

Other observations, back-plate gets really hot without that rear 140mm fan as intake! That combined with the fact that hot air is blowing directly over distribution plate all of the 14/10 acrylic tubing, motherboard, GPU back-plate etc. All of that heats up with the radiator heat, it's basic common sense (and DDC pump, no-one even bothered to look at my system before immediately suggesting all rad fans as intake, if they saw that the DDC mounted to the distro plate was literally 1.5 inches in front of PE 360 that would otherwise be pulling air across it and out of the case as exhaust would no be dumping heat directly onto it would they still recommend all rad fans as intake considering DDC is air-cooled. Unexepected pump failure in what 1-2 years with that heat? When your pump goes and takes your $1200 GPU out with it, that's always fun. Luckily I did my own testing and found that rads as intake is definitely not better than exhaust despite what conventional wisdom dictates AND I'm replacing single DDC with 2x D5 in serial, just waiting on my larger rads to come in)



If you don't want to watch me run around the Caspian Sea in Metro Exodus I alt+tab out in the all fans as intake testing session at the 20 min mark in the video and I also go over the data at the end and before starting second testing session with fans reverted to intake @ 36 min mark and you can see the ending temps @ the end of the second 20 minute run around 1:02:30 mark.

Needless to say I'm glad I just didn't listen to all of the sage advice here and run my rads as intake! I've been doing this for a while and I've always questioned why you would want to run your radiators as intake, pumping all of that HOT air into your case and over your components (and hard tubing + liquid), the very same components youre trying to cool with said radiators. I understand the concept, the effectiveness of a radiator depends on the temp of the air passing through it, but you can provide ample air to said radiators from inside the case. It may be a few degrees celsius warmer, but at least in a View 71 (and Air 540) with 40% fan RPM it's definitely better than pumping all of that hot air into your case. I've always run my rads as exhaust and until today I've never done back to back testing like this to test my hypothesis, to me it's just common sense.

Well now I know for a FACT that multiple radiators are much better exhausting that heat out of a case, at least if it's a View 71 and youre only running the fans at 40% RPM (inaudible, I don't like noise, hence why I'm replacing the DDC on the distro plate with 2x D5 which I will run at 70% RPM).

As I state in the video, maybe rads as intake is better if you run your rad fans at 70-100% RPM and the case doesn't breathe as well as Thermaltake View 71. I don't mean to offend anyone with my findings nor the way that I present them here, each case is different, I'm sure many of you have done your own testing and may have found that the opposite is true. My question is, did you actually look at the temps of your memory and your mobo mounted M.2 PCI-E drives? +10-15C on the memory and +20C on the M.2 PCI-E boot drive is MASSIVE!

Anyhow, thanks for reading and watching, hopefully this experience and data will help others to buck conventional wisdom and do their own research when it comes to radiator fan orientation.

System in question:
 


https://imgur.com/a/i7zCusE

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8 hours ago, vulcan78 said:

........
All rad fans as intake, rear 140mm fan as exhaust

.......

 

... proper air throughput is  the key hence same amount of intake/sucker fans. Usually case front/bottom is intake while top/back is exhaust area depending on your configuration of course. Sucker fans (exhaust) can be 1 more but never intake fans.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys how are you doing in such a time?

So, since I was a kid I always had this dream of having the awesomest gaming setup ever, passion evolved into obsession when I could not fulfill my dream, many years later and working and saving alot of money, I just wanna roll my self in the best unnecessary over the top build ever so I could look at it and be satisfied and fulfilled.

I live in Pakistan, so part availability has been a Huge issue (understatement) and I could not get the two most coveted items that I wanted: the Corsair 1000d and an Ax1600I psu, as well as next gen ryzen or intell (may 20 reveal was disappointing so i shifted to amd) with a godlike equivalent mobo and the 3080ti (to be released) as well as a fully decorated large gaming room.

However, due to Covid-19 and other issues, no renovations so no specific gaming room for atleast another year so I have forcefully possessed a spare room (its crap and old but renewed the wiring) till then and my build order that I have purchased but yet to arrive (covid-deliveries ugh) Which is now :

TT View 71 TG edition, Ryzen 3900x, Msi x570 Unify, an oem 2080ti msi Aero from china (to be watercooled), xpg gammix 2TB s11 pro ssd, LG C9 4k-120hz display new and a pg279q old, an Hx1200i Psu, ram cant find a good one yet, and other peripherals.

Sorry for the rant just bear with my excitement, thanks.

So, I am a noob and its gonna be my first not only pc build but a hardtubing custom watercooled build (One can learn a lot by research and videos). Thus i went ahead and ordered 4 ML140mm fans for 3 on a 420 rad uptop and 1 rear exhaust, 6 ML120mm fans for 2 x 360 rads in front and side. Note: these are pro version non-rgb and very high Static pressure and CFM ( its hot where I live and I use headphones and a ceiling fan so noise is a non-issue).

Now I find myself in a tricky spot, and this is where i need Help from all you learned enthusiasts.

What rads should I put in there? I mean the manual of the chassis gives the length and width of supported Rads but no mention of thickness. Also how can i configure an intake exhaust airflow for minimal dust and a good positive airflow?

Basically, guys you have my specs, how much thickness should be the top 420 rad and the front and side 360 rads? So they dont conflict with each other and possible fittings, and/or according to possible airflow configs like top and front intake while side exhaust or vice versa. My situation is such that I cannot go to a local shop get the stuff I want check if it fits return and get what works. Rather I would need to plan everything and then Import specific stuff from Aliexpress (barrow and Bykski) which would take 2 months or more to reach me and then I cant just return stuff if they dont fit. I hope you guys understand.

Also, how would I measure the possible supported thickness of the Rads in this chassis, is there like a tutorial? I could not find answers to these queries of mine, I hope you can help a buddy out here in an underdeveloped nation.

Edited by Hamaid Javed Cheema
Typos and missed words
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13 hours ago, Hamaid Javed Cheema said:

Hey guys how are you doing in such a time?

So, since I was a kid I always had this dream of having the awesomest gaming setup ever, passion evolved into obsession when I could not fulfill my dream, many years later and working and saving alot of money, I just wanna roll my self in the best unnecessary over the top build ever so I could look at it and be satisfied and fulfilled.

I live in Pakistan, so part availability has been a Huge issue (understatement) and I could not get the two most coveted items that I wanted: the Corsair 1000d and an Ax1600I psu, as well as next gen ryzen or intell (may 20 reveal was disappointing so i shifted to amd) with a godlike equivalent mobo and the 3080ti (to be released) as well as a fully decorated large gaming room.

However, due to Covid-19 and other issues, no renovations so no specific gaming room for atleast another year so I have forcefully possessed a spare room (its crap and old but renewed the wiring) till then and my build order that I have purchased but yet to arrive (covid-deliveries ugh) Which is now :

TT View 71 TG edition, Ryzen 3900x, Msi x570 Unify, an oem 2080ti msi Aero from china (to be watercooled), xpg gammix 2TB s11 pro ssd, LG C9 4k-120hz display new and a pg279q old, an Hx1200i Psu, ram cant find a good one yet, and other peripherals.

Sorry for the rant just bear with my excitement, thanks.

So, I am a noob and its gonna be my first not only pc build but a hardtubing custom watercooled build (One can learn a lot by research and videos). Thus i went ahead and ordered 4 ML140mm fans for 3 on a 420 rad uptop and 1 rear exhaust, 6 ML120mm fans for 2 x 360 rads in front and side. Note: these are pro version non-rgb and very high Static pressure and CFM ( its hot where I live and I use headphones and a ceiling fan so noise is a non-issue).

Now I find myself in a tricky spot, and this is where i need Help from all you learned enthusiasts.

What rads should I put in there? I mean the manual of the chassis gives the length and width of supported Rads but no mention of thickness. Also how can i configure an intake exhaust airflow for minimal dust and a good positive airflow?

Basically, guys you have my specs, how much thickness should be the top 420 rad and the front and side 360 rads? So they dont conflict with each other and possible fittings, and/or according to possible airflow configs like top and front intake while side exhaust or vice versa. My situation is such that I cannot go to a local shop get the stuff I want check if it fits return and get what works. Rather I would need to plan everything and then Import specific stuff from Aliexpress (barrow and Bykski) which would take 2 months or more to reach me and then I cant just return stuff if they dont fit. I hope you guys understand.

Also, how would I measure the possible supported thickness of the Rads in this chassis, is there like a tutorial? I could not find answers to these queries of mine, I hope you can help a buddy out here in an underdeveloped nation.

You chose a great case! (one of if not the best IMHO, due to gaps in chassis which allow for breathability). 

I recommend going with the biggest radiators right from the start, I regret getting a slim 420 in the ceiling and just the 38mm 360 in the front when I originally did my loop. 

I currently have and can safely recommend: 

EK CE 420 (ceiling)

EK XE 360 (front)

 

Additionally, and this is subjective, but if you can swing it I HIGHLY recommend Barrow's Distribution plate in conjunction with 2x D5 pumps in serial (2x the head pressure and redundancy, D5 at 100% RPM sounds like DDC @ 50% RPM). 

I also recommend orienting the rad fans as exhaust, rear 140mm fan as intake, and adding 2x 90mm fans at bottom of chassis as intake as well. 

I have an update coming to my channel including a modification (removal of rear 140mm fan grill) and putting the PC on some 3x6 wooden blocks to get it off the carpet and aid with airflow and improve the aesthetics: 

 

This is how it looked originally with soft tubing and the single D5 with smaller radiators and no distro plate: 

 

Here's the distro plate from Ali Express, I went with 14/10 acrylic because, compared to PETG, acrylic resists deformation at temperature better (even though my water temps don't exceed 35C) and are much more UV resistant.  With PETG, if water temp gets up to 50-55C there is the risk of a tube becoming dislodged from a fitting because the tubing is literally starting to melt / deform. This problem is actually much more widespread than you think. The only benefit of PETG over Acrylic is that, it's more shatter resistant? I mean that's great if you swing hammers around in your case? I don't swing hammers around in my case, I will take the superior clarity, UV resistance, easier cutting and chamfering, and peace of mind that a tube will never dislodge due to water temperature. In regards to UV resistance, the original EK Duraclear turned lime green after about 4-5 months of mostly indirect sunlight and PETG isn't much better in this regard, it may just take twice as long. I know Acrylic is much better because the Acrylic pump-res seen in the video above suffered zero UV discoloration. Acrylic is also clearer and easier to cut. 

I recommend going hard tubing right from the start and I recommend Acrylic if the room where the PC is has any sunlight. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906002848.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.63094c4dPeViPj

 

Let me know if you have any more questions! 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, vulcan78 said:

You chose a great case! (one of if not the best IMHO, due to gaps in chassis which allow for breathability). 

I recommend going with the biggest radiators right from the start, I regret getting a slim 420 in the ceiling and just the 38mm 360 in the front when I originally did my loop. 

I currently have and can safely recommend: 

EK CE 420 (ceiling)

EK XE 360 (front)

 

Additionally, and this is subjective, but if you can swing it I HIGHLY recommend Barrow's Distribution plate in conjunction with 2x D5 pumps in serial (2x the head pressure and redundancy, D5 at 100% RPM sounds like DDC @ 50% RPM). 

I also recommend orienting the rad fans as exhaust, rear 140mm fan as intake, and adding 2x 90mm fans at bottom of chassis as intake as well. 

I have an update coming to my channel including a modification (removal of rear 140mm fan grill) and putting the PC on some 3x6 wooden blocks to get it off the carpet and aid with airflow and improve the aesthetics: 

 

This is how it looked originally with soft tubing and the single D5 with smaller radiators and no distro plate: 

 

Here's the distro plate from Ali Express, I went with 14/10 acrylic because, compared to PETG, acrylic resists deformation at temperature better (even though my water temps don't exceed 35C) and are much more UV resistant.  With PETG, if water temp gets up to 50-55C there is the risk of a tube becoming dislodged from a fitting because the tubing is literally starting to melt / deform. This problem is actually much more widespread than you think. The only benefit of PETG over Acrylic is that, it's more shatter resistant? I mean that's great if you swing hammers around in your case? I don't swing hammers around in my case, I will take the superior clarity, UV resistance, easier cutting and chamfering, and peace of mind that a tube will never dislodge due to water temperature. In regards to UV resistance, the original EK Duraclear turned lime green after about 4-5 months of mostly indirect sunlight and PETG isn't much better in this regard, it may just take twice as long. I know Acrylic is much better because the Acrylic pump-res seen in the video above suffered zero UV discoloration. Acrylic is also clearer and easier to cut. 

I recommend going hard tubing right from the start and I recommend Acrylic if the room where the PC is has any sunlight. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906002848.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.63094c4dPeViPj

 

Let me know if you have any more questions! 

 

 

 

 

Dude, Thankyou like really thankyou. Thats a real sweet setup you got there and I saw your videos, nicee.

Thankyou for the rads, meaning 45mm thickness uptop and 60 on front right. For  airflow i was thinking having intakes where the dust filters are and I dont think I would go with the distro plate but instead fit another radiator there. Also, #### that was some info about petg melting, we dont want that now do we.

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  • 2 weeks later...
11 minutes ago, EIcEDoNUT said:

Just got my view 71 opened it up and the glass was not cut to the right size. Impossible for the rubber grommet to fit into the tempered glass properly. It was just smashed on. Did anyone else have this issue? Currently very disappointed. 

Perhaps attach a photo to your message - this problem is with all glass panels?

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55 minutes ago, EIcEDoNUT said:

It is only this one panel. I am hoping TT will replace the TG panel for me. Or does any one know if you can flip the back and front panels. I wouldn't mind as much if this panel was on the back side where I wouldn't remove as much.

sounds like a breakage replacement then - you don't mean the hole alignment? if so just tilt the door a bit and it snaps in.

...What back panel? .. there is no back panel just front/sides/top is glass

Edited by View71
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To me the front panel is the side. and the back is the other side you don't look at. As for tilting the door no amount of tilt could can get the glass panel to snap in. The only thing that would get this to snap in is to bend the pin for the hinge of the panel or a replacement. Just disappointed in TT. Current build is in the Thermaltake Xaser III. No issues for three different builds in there.

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43 minutes ago, EIcEDoNUT said:

To me the front panel is the side. and the back is the other side you don't look at. As for tilting the door no amount of tilt could can get the glass panel to snap in. The only thing that would get this to snap in is to bend the pin for the hinge of the panel or a replacement. Just disappointed in TT. Current build is in the Thermaltake Xaser III. No issues for three different builds in there.

I know the pains. I even have a BBB case against TT. This is THE WORST customer service I have ever dealt with. Beginning with their clear false advertisement on the box showing a light pattern on the fans that the included fans cannot do to the terriblen QA for such a beautiful case that actually has airflow and looks!
I also have issues with my door but at least I can still do a workaround to make it close. Funny enough when I complained about this alignment issue their "tech" support told me that when you add things inside it could make the door sag and create that. I was like ...so didnt your "engineers" expect people to actually put PC PARTs inside a freaking PC case, or do they think we would display an empty case for decor???
The BBB case is still opened after a laughable reply from them.
Needless to say, I will never buy TT again and every chance I get with friends, customers or forum members, I warn them about buying from TT.

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29 minutes ago, LGabrielPhoto said:

I know the pains. I even have a BBB case against TT. This is THE WORST customer service I have ever dealt with. Beginning with their clear false advertisement on the box showing a light pattern on the fans that the included fans cannot do to the terriblen QA for such a beautiful case that actually has airflow and looks!
I also have issues with my door but at least I can still do a workaround to make it close. Funny enough when I complained about this alignment issue their "tech" support told me that when you add things inside it could make the door sag and create that. I was like ...so didnt your "engineers" expect people to actually put PC PARTs inside a freaking PC case, or do they think we would display an empty case for decor???
The BBB case is still opened after a laughable reply from them.
Needless to say, I will never buy TT again and every chance I get with friends, customers or forum members, I warn them about buying from TT.

I'm not to worried about the fans TT fans aren't the best. I am replacing them anyway with the noctua fans. But the fact that the panel doesn't shut without any parts is concerning. Even more concerning if your saying it could sag even more once I put the guts in the case.  I was actually wondering if i switch side panels if I could get the main panel to line up properly.

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13 minutes ago, EIcEDoNUT said:

I'm not to worried about the fans TT fans aren't the best. I am replacing them anyway with the noctua fans. But the fact that the panel doesn't shut without any parts is concerning. Even more concerning if your saying it could sag even more once I put the guts in the case.  I was actually wondering if i switch side panels if I could get the main panel to line up properly.

The fan part is about misleading customers..very shady marketing.
But yes, mine was closing just fine when I got it until I finished my build and that was their excuse and all I have is hard drives and mobo with not even a BIG air cooler but AIO so nothing big and heavy.

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I am building a new system.  I have Asus Crossfire Hero Viii and thermaltake view 71 argb case.  I also have a thermaltake 850 watt argb power suppply which is working fine by the way.  Both thermaltake devices are connected to the addressable rgb port.  With the preinstalled fans they were completetely lit up when the fans were independent of the motherboard.  When I held the reset button for 3 seconds they would show the same color as the other rgb devices.  The only problem is of the 3 fans 2 were not putting out light and the third seems to only be half lit up.  What can I do to get them all to light up fully when synced to asus aura?

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, just recently set up my brand new pc wth a Thermaltake 71 case. Everything is running great but the fans that come stock are not turning on. 
 

Figure 1: the default control board where the fans are plugged into for power

Figure 2: where my e labelled cord goes into the mobo

Figure 3: where the only other cable that fits into that control panel looks like and I have no idea where to plug in. Cable F has VGB on its label  I have an AMD b550 ASUS motherboard

Does anybody know why I’m not getting power to my fans!? Been at it for 2 weeks

 

 

15972075970112583072007222854268.jpg

15972076222417184497184290442109.jpg

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On 8/12/2020 at 12:39 PM, Benji said:

Hey guys, just recently set up my brand new pc wth a Thermaltake 71 case. Everything is running great but the fans that come stock are not turning on. 
 

Figure 1: the default control board where the fans are plugged into for power

Figure 2: where my e labelled cord goes into the mobo

Figure 3: where the only other cable that fits into that control panel looks like and I have no idea where to plug in. Cable F has VGB on its label  I have an AMD b550 ASUS motherboard

Does anybody know why I’m not getting power to my fans!? Been at it for 2 weeks

 

 

 

 

Hi,

Sorry for the inconvenience.

The cable F is for Gigabyte motherboards, so you actually don't need it.

And it only shows two pictures, so can you please share the missing one?

And the fans are not spinning?not lighting?or neither of them working?

 

Thank you.

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