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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Just another update from work over this past weekend, reassembled the case (replacing rivets with screws) so I can add a little grime to it and check on fitting / spacing: I had a broken amp I keep tripping over that's been waiting to go to the tip (when they re-open), but thought I could get creative and incorporate it into the project. I ended up taking it apart and added it's circuit boards to the top: and to the side of the motherboard tray to hide the cabling: Will hopefully have more updates at the weekend (involving the transformer I salvaged from the amp), hope you're all doing well!
  2. 3 points

    Project: I.S.A.C. by Andy Makin

    Welcome back Crapfans! Has it been 2 weeks already!? Time just has very little meaning or reference any more and it can really get away from you. Let call it a mid season break 😉 In the last episode, I got close to finishing a piece of motherboard armour before #### up drilling out a couple of holes, but there were some little tweaks I wanted so not the end of the world. I used the original drawing I'd done on card and cut out a new section to fit around the SATA ports, took a few snips to get it right and then I could transfer the measurements onto a copy from the scan I'd made. So I went to print out a couple of copies of the scanned design but they didn't look quite right. Measuring it against my cut out I could see it was clearly too small. Odd. Tried printing again checking that the print options weren't resizing, now it was too big. What!? No matter what I tried, 4 or 5 different programs, on the JPEG or the PDF versions, countless settings, I could not get it to print the correct size. So frustrating, but I had the cut-out and I could trace round that. It'd likely add a degree of inaccuracy, but what you gonna do? Now I knew I had the holes for this pieces mounting screws correct, so I used them as reference points and took measurement from there to both of the M.2 cover's screw holes. Using a compass I could use those measurements to plot against each other and get the locations. Simples! I'd got myself some proper mounting glue so the paper sat flusher to the metal. But then stupidly used cutting lubrication to drill a hole for the jigsaw which of course dissolved the glue in that corner 🙄 Didn't take long to have it cut out though and no further mistakes thankfully. I worked my way round the piece filing down the edges, it was going really well at first, nice and straight and flat, but it got harder and harder to get it right and I realised my files were getting clogged. I tried freeing them up with a cat brush (as it has similar thin pins to a file bush) but it didn't work that well and they just got too clogged to carry on. So I went to Screwfix and picked up a set of Magnusson files. I have a set of their pliers and a wire stripper and they're decent so thought they'd do. Plus they came with a file brush. The file brush broke on the second stroke 😠 So I went to take them back but they're not accepting returns at the minute with all the pandemic shenanigans. I ordered myself a nice set of Bacho files and while I waited I thought a little more use of the Magnusson ones won't hurt, I'd almost finished when the file brush broke so I'll get the basic outline done, leave a smidge to finish with my new one's once they arrive. The edge next to the SATA ports would need to slope with their profile. It didn't quite fit and would need some little tweeks in quite a few places. I decided to wait till my new files came, in theory they should be better and allow for finer adjustment than the others and I didn't want to take the mick if I was returning them. While waiting for the new files I didn't rest idle. I stripped all the sleeving off the fans... ... did some prototyping with card for parts of the mod coming later... ... had some stencils made by the guys at 4D Model Shop, top quality work and quick turnaround.... ... then I had to do a photoshoot for the album cover of a cat boy band I manage, Mew Kitts on the Block. Then the Files Arrived! 😃 After installing the handles on most of them I thought "Hey, I should do a video on how to mount file handles", so I filmed one, wasn't great, shot another and I mumbled a lot. Shot another one, was a great take, went to watch it back aaaaand I'd hit the selfie camera button so had filmed the wrong direction. 😖 And that was the last file. ðŸ˜Ī Still, They were all in with only 1 minor mishap from when the hole wasn't big enough for the tang. Luckily for you that was on film 😂ðŸĪĢ I started with the edges that sat against the sloped sides of the M.2 heatsinks and added an angle to them for better fitting, top right and bottom left. I trimmed a bit more off the SATA port edge so it could sit in properly and drilled the 2 mounting holes to check it all fit properly. So far so good. Now, despite having done umpteen measurements to get the hole position the the M.2 screws, I was worried about history repeating itself and started doubting myself. To check I had those measurements right I used the cutout I'd done by card and punched holes through into all the threaded mounts. The I lined up the 2 mounting holes and marked where the holes for the M.2 screws were. Now a bit more confident I drilled the holes out, just 2mm to start with and you know what? If I'd drilled them where I'd originally marked they would have been perfect 😅😭 It's not easy to see in the picture but they were just out, but that's why I started with a 2mm hole, I needed to get it to 5.5mm so I had room to adjust and correct, first with this nifty carbide milling bit. Then when it was big enough I switched to using a file, while is a bit more controllable. By twisting the file into it, then rotating back and forth it would gradually increase the hole. I'd file a little out, dust it off and then check it on the board to see how it was going. If I needed to move the hole over in a particular direction I'd file that side with a needle file, before returning to the larger file to round the hole out. Until eventually..... Success! 😃ðŸĪ˜ A real snug fit too which is just perfect. I could leave those screws in and have a quick reference to work on any minor adjustments that were needed. With a little trim of the top edge along the PCIE slot, a few other minor tweaks and a bit of finishing all round it was almost done. Now I just needed to drill the other holes out to allow the mounting screws to sit flush. The mounting points sit about 1.1mm below the bottom edge of the alu, so I'll be attaching a couple of washers to the underside for the screw to fit into and the whole thing would actually rest on them then. Almost done! :happy: Oh and spraying clear plastidip on the underside to prevent shorts. Then put a brushed finish to the top and apply a clear coat. And some other bits. So no, not nearly finished. 🙄 lol Since it had been a while I thought now was as good a time as any to drop in and give you an update. Hopefully I'll have it ACTUALLY finished next time. So stay tuned crap fans. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  3. 2 points
    Ahoy hoy modderinos! What's this? Another updatealready!? And it doesn't involve the motherboard armour!!!??? ðŸ˜ē Yep that's right, mostly due to needing one last part for it, but also because I need to do something else before I go mad 😅 So inline with the brightenisation of the motherboard, the CPU block was next up for an enlightening. First I needed a good copy of one, didn't work out too well just sticking it on the copier. By cutting out the first copy to reflect the light in the surrounding area and then shining a bright torch through the plexi block.... I was able to get a much better copy and clearer image. I put the block back together and taped up the coldplate for it's trip to the shed, to make sure it didn't get damaged. First up to the chopping block were the mounting arms. Soon got rid of that paint with a Dremel sand drum. Nice and easy 👍 What wasn't so easy was getting rig of the deep score lines from using the roughest grit sanding drum 🙄 I went over it again with the higher grit drum I have, it was already used, but I thought that would be better for not putting more score lines in. It helped, but the worst bits remained still. I was conscious off taking too much material and the arms no longer fitting the block properly, so I thought it would come out when sanding the finish into it. Much, MUCH sanding later and there's still some deep scores about. I try one of the abrasive wheels I got for the Dremel. That only removed the sanding lines and did nothing for the bad bits. More sanding, still looks crap. I remember I have scotch pads, give them a go, get a nice finish pretty quick but there's still those bad bits. ðŸĪŽ I think about giving in and just having it crap, so I go indoors and clean them up. But I just can't leave it. So I go back to the shed. I tidy up a little while I have a think about how to solve it, put some Dremel bits away. I do have some new drums, let's try again with one of the new higher grit ones..... Yep, that's done it. 10 mins later they're good for a quick final brush with a scotch pad. Another 20 mins. Done. And I'm thoroughly done in. However seeing as they're steel I don't want them rusting, so knock up a quick paint booth and give them light dusting of clear coat to seal them. Onto the next day and the next part, the block. In a similar vein to the motherboard, it'll get a nice new aluminium cover. I stick the photocopy on a small piece and cut out the rough shape. I decide to do the 2 inner holes for the fittings first before doing the outer edge. First I need to find the middle. After finding the diameter of the holes, I dial the compass into half that value and make a small arc in the middle from 3 points on the edge. They didn't intersect exactly as there's a fair degree of inaccuracy from my initial measurement, compass setting and then placement, but there's a tiny triangle there to centre on and punch. I drilled out a 4mm hole then used the step bit to it's largest diameter, before filing from there using a round file. To finish the inner circles I switch to a half round file when it will fit. With those complete I started on the outer edge and neatened it up with a rough hand file. From there I moved to using the flat side of a second cut half round file to get a smoother finish and begin getting it to a better shape. When I got close I moved to a smooth cut half round file. I'd go round the edge once or twice and then check against the block to see how it was going. The cover on the block sat in a little lip and wasn't completely flush to it, which combined with a little bit of light bleed meant the size I was aiming for would probably be before I hit the black edge. I worked slowly at it, brushing the file often to keep the file clean and the cut true. I moved from working at it from a very front-on position to almost from the side, after I found I hadn't quite been getting it perpendicular. From this angle I could better watch the file and how it was working the piece. Slowly i edged in, checking it on the block until, bingo! I gave it one last very light passing just to smooth the finish out, put it back into the vice, tilted it back and filed a bevel into the edge, then finally cleaned the template off. I had intended on brushing the surface to have it match the motherboard, but the smooth sheen of a finish the alu came with is just gorgeous and I was very tempted to keep it that way. The mounting arms ended up looking great with just a couple of light dusting coats and really complimented and evened out the finish. Rather annoyingly I managed to scratch the surface of the cover when trying to twist it into the right place, just above the right hand port, so I'll definitely be refinishing it now. It was the original plan though and I think will look better if it matches the arms and the rest of the motherboard. Might look out of place being shiny with the rest a more matt look. I will however be trying to polish up the bevelled edge to give it a little highlight, which I wanted to start on before brushing the face. Using some sandpaper wrapped around an off cut of aluminium to make sure it's flat, I first sanded the outer perpendicular edge to make sure than was nice and even and smooth, then gave the bevel a quick going over to try and get the worst of the filing marks out. And with that we have to end this episode, for that's all I had the time, energy and mental capacity for. 😔 But fear not, for I will return in no time at all for our next enthralling encounter, so stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  4. 2 points
    Morning Crapfans! Well that's another week that's flown by. We've now been given a date of 24th July to have the mods completed and a video submitted so I best get my skates on. Particularly with this motherboard armour which should have been finished already. What's that old saying? Keep it simple stupid! 😅 So with all the holes now in the the right place, I had to enlarge the 2 holes for the mounting screws as the threads for them sit a little over 1mm below the bottom side of the alu plate. I'll be mounting some washers to the underside of the armour for the screws to pull on and then they'll sit flusher to the top surface too. So I enlarged the hole from 2mm to 3mm to 3.5 to 4, all with no problems, was nice and centred still, but needed them a little wider still. I thought about using the round file again like I did for the others, but it wouldn't fit in the hole yet. "That's odd" I thought, "I didn't think the other holes were that much bigger. The file must not have had as much taper as I thought." So I pull out the 5m drill bit and 😖 As I looked for a file or something suitable for cleaning that up I found my smaller round file, the one I'd used for the other holes, that would have fit in these to enlarge them. Joy. ðŸĪŽ I ended up countersinking the hole to clean it up, which meant doing it on the others as well for some continuity. Was pretty darn annoyed at such a stupid mistake, I hadn't wanted to countersink them but it doesn't look too bad. More importantly, I can continue with this piece and not start again. I think I'd rather cover the motherboard with duct tape than start again. With those all sorted, now we needed to tackle the chipset cooling, as the fan will find it difficult to breath through the alu plate. So open sesame! After marking the centre of the hole by lining up the original cover, I drilled a pilot hole then used a step bit to get it that big. but it wasn't big enough. I'd got some carbine milling bits for the Dremel, so used one of those to get close to where I needed to be. I was apprehensive about using it to go all the way as it could get a bit grabby and I didn't want to mess it up at this stage. After filing most of the rest out I checked where I was in relation to the fan, see if I needed to remove some in a particular direction, which it did. I'd drawn the circle on the back which wasn't great, especially as the pencil rubbed off fairly easily. Should have measured the centre point on the motherboard, then drawn a circle on the front with a compass, but at least I'd checked and could fix it from here. I drew a slightly larger circle that was centred to help gauge the edge which helped a lot. I kept checking it against the original and the motherboard to make sure it was going in the right direction and wasn't getting out of shape. In the end I was pretty pleased how it came out and how round it was. I won't claim it's a perfect circle but it's really close. I decided to leave it at that point as I have a tendency to go too far with trying to get something absolutely perfect and end up making it worse. Next up I needed to fashion a fan shroud to direct the air over the heatsink, for which I'd use some aluminium angle. I decided to try and get the shape fairly close to the original so used several small pieces. These pieces were too tall and I needed to get them down to 8.5mm. I had this little compound table and figured I'd try and use it in conjunction with my Dremel stand. It was not as easy as I'd hoped to get this set up. Just mounting it to the Dremel base took an age. I'd have it set right start tightening the bolts and a washer would slip and get stuck so I'd have to pull it off again, get it lined up, get the bolts back on, tighten, slip...... ðŸĪŽ I ended up having to lie on my back under it to get the bolts tightened and stop the washers slipping. Not made easier by my decision to use nylon lock nuts to stop them coming undone from the vibrations it would make. Then I wanted to mount it direct to the workbench, but the bolts I'd bought to ensure they fit flush underneath the Dremel base were too short to fit through the workbench top. I had to search the house for a piece of conti board to mount it on. Then I tried to get the bolts flush with the bottom of that, but I didn't have the right bit to drill out the nut recess and I ended up wrecking the first set of holes. Luckily the bolts would sit either side of the workbench piece so I just let them poke out and then attached it to the bench with some grip clamps. At least it worked! 😃 But it was slow. Really slow. It had at least given me a platform to be able to get at the edge that needed removing, which was nigh on impossible in a vice. So I cracked out the "rough cut" file and used that instead. Now I needed to look at the side that would attach to the armour, make sure it didn't hang over the edge or cover any screw holes. So I transferred the pattern over to the underside where they'd live. I'd also need to check some pieces against the original. As you can see here, the long straight piece would interfere with the fan and would need to be trimmed. It took a little while to get them all done, filing angles onto the corners to get them to fit properly as well. I had to file a bit, check it's alignment, file a bit more, but eventually I had them all done and stuck down with double sided tape for a test fit. It needed some more work doing to it. The fins of the chipset heatsink hit the angle and they were also still too tall. Must have measured that wrong thing as I needed to take at least 2mm off. Back to the shed I went, filing away like a man possessed. Luckily the "rough cut" file can take material off pretty quick when given some welly. As the clamps on the compound table went to about the height I wanted I could use that to gauge where I was and just give a few final strokes with a second cut file to smooth and make sure they were level. I also changed the setup on the corner that sticks out. After filing the original piece out there was barely anything left to stick it down with, so I made a new piece to point outwards and took some of the other piece to give it some room. And it fit! 😃 ðŸĪ˜ The compound table had taken a fair bit of abuse though. It's only a cheap chineseum ebay one with an aluminium bed, so fairly soft material compared to the nuts and bolts of the clamping mechanism. I wanted to stick the pieces together as a single unit before fitting to the motherboard armour, so I got one of the old card templates and glued it to the original armour plate I made, then stuck the pieces to that with double sided tape. Then give it a test fit just to make sure everything was in the right place. Good to go! 👌 Now it's time for our good old friend JB Weld ðŸĪĐ The original plan was just to put some on the joins to stick them together, maybe spread a little to reinforce, but things kind of got out of hand ðŸĪŠ At least I can be #### well sure it'll be stuck together 😂 I then turned my attention to the armour piece itself. I gave all the edges a good sanding, try and get rid of the filing marks. It was filthy after so I gave it a wash, which took the paper from the template off. The finish underneath was still decent so wont require too much work to put a nice finish on, so I covered it in masking tape to protect it. This top edge had been bothering me a bit. I'd cut it too tall but I didn't know if I wanted it brought down flat or at an angle to match the M.2 heatsink. After asking around a bit, the general consensus was to angle it and I do think that would look better there. I just wasn't sure if it would look out of place being as all the other edges are flat. Didn't take too long to sort it out and it does look so right. I'm waiting on a final piece to finish off the armour, which has just taken way longer than it should have. Probably didn't need to do all this for the chipset cooler, probably could have left it and it would have been fine, or made it simpler, but sometimes I just have to do things right or it will bug me to oblivion. In the mean time I can finally start working on something else, but that's all for now folks. See you next time for "what crappy overcomplicated next" :winking: Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  5. 2 points
    Been a bit of a slow week, the weather was hit and miss up in my neck of the woods so was limited as to what I could get done outside. I wanted to get started on painting the frame, but needed to do a little bit more cutting before I could get started: This large rectangle was of course for an LCD screen: A little rough around the edges at first glance (I was just making sure it actually fit), but the acrylic within the interior should hopefully give it a clean finish. I cleaned up the edges a bit more, then sanding everything down in preparation to start laying down some primer: Even just a coat of primer looked better than the stock finish, hopefully the final product will be worth it. This week I'm hoping to finish off these bits so I can start putting components back in, then next on the agenda will be front and top panels. Thanks for stopping folks, take care and stay safe!
  6. 2 points
    Colin McNally

    Colin McNally - project motogp

    Hi all back with my weekly update and over the last week iv started to fit the waterloop. I started with the gpu waterblock which I always get nervous doing. When I figured out what way the pipes would run I started bending.when I got all the pipes in i filled with distilled water to test for leakes and clean the system out. Now I've got to adjust the pipe and change the coolant to white. Its getting close now not much left to do so hopefully next week my build will be done.😁
  7. 2 points
    Update 2: 07/05/2020 Due to the corona virus it has limited on the amount of modding I can do. Due to having limited space in my house, I have no where to perform the modifications. This was originally going to be done at a friends house who has a workshop, Originally I didn't think the lockdown would last this long so I waited, however it looks like I am going to have to find the space.. I didn't want to leave you guys with nothing so here is what I have done so far. 1. I decided to build the parts in the case to see what the case is like etc. (without the watercooling). see image below. 2. Of course to get more performance out of the RX 5700 I flashed it with an RX 5700 XT Bios. This worked successfully and you get about a 7-10% fps increase. If you guys would like to see benchmarks of the difference I will be happy to make a video! 3. After waiting, I have recieved a bunch of parts needed for the modifications, I just need to start the updating, Notes: It will include, sandpaper, paint, saw, 3D printer, Laser Cutter, and dog tags
  8. 1 point

    Large Thumb screws View 71 rgb edition

    So don't ask me how but i have managed to lose 2 of the large thumbs for the view 71 rgb edition case. my question is any idea where i can get original replacements? or suitable ones. Sorry if this is in the wrong forum
  9. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words folks, it is much appreciated. ðŸĨ° I went into this whole contest with solely a 'theoretical' understanding of how I could use the acrylic. In my head the plan was to create a cleaner version of the View 51 Snow. Now this isn't to say that the case doesn't already look great stock, as it certainly does; but we all know how factory paint jobs can be, especially when dealing with multiple materials. I'm now getting to the stage where I will start to see whether these ideas actually work or not! So catching up from the last time I checked in, once all those things above had been painted and lacquered, it was time to start putting some pieces back together. First up was the small front panel where the power switch and USB ports etc. reside, as well as getting the 200mm Riing Trios in: I had removed as much of the fan bracket as I was comfortable with, as I still wanted it to successfully hold these monsters in place. Whilst not perfect, it definitely makes things less busy behind the fans. Some other minor things were making the Power Button and Reset Switch black, just to give it a little bit of pop. Another reason for starting to get things like the fans and front panel in was to get started on cable management, as that would eventually be a slight pain. At least at this stage there were barely any cables: It's a shame that the above shot doesn't show how glossy that front panel is, but I suppose that's what happens when you just take candid photos rather than lighting them properly and whatnot. Admittedly when I'm working on a PC I just want to get stuck into it, so pausing to take a pic is something I constantly have to remind myself to do! I then put the thicc boi back in as well as the 3 Riing Quads up top, and it was time to make some new bends: I think this shot gives a better idea of just how white the case is now after the paint job, you can also see a decent bit of reflection on that bottom right corner. After several iterations of different bends, keeping in mind I wanted the area of acrylic on the right to not be covered up by tubing, these are how the final bends turned out: I had considered having the CPU>Distro run travel at a 90 to the right and then straight up, but running it straight this way kept the panel nice and clear for... ...well, stuff 😉 I flushed the system several times with Distilled Water and then ran just the pump for a couple of days to make sure there were no leaks. Everything checked out, so it was then time to drain the system and put in the proper fluid. Whilst the system did look pretty cool with clear coolant, there was really only one choice: I've honestly never used the P1000 coolant before, but I have a decent amount of experience with opaque coolant from other brands. So I'm unfortunately well aware of some the issues that can be encountered. My first build with some really cheap stuff turned quite yucky after a few months, but usually the reputable brands work quite well provided you do the prep work correctly. Next step was to get the system filled and get out all the air bubbles, so ran the pump once again for a good couple of days: I always love how much quieter a pump runs when you use a pre-mixed coolant compared to distilled water, just that slight change in viscosity makes a world of difference. I briefly turned on the system fully, just to make sure everything worked. System was absolutely fine, it just took me a little while to get used to the TT RGB Plus software. But I got there in the end. Before proceeding any further I wanted to get to work on the cables around back. I had all the intentions of making it super-clean back there, but if you recall, the rear panel was going to be modified with a lit Unicorn's Head (still the plan). In order to help facilitate this, as the actual cutout would be clear, I needed a blank canvas back there. So instead I did an alright job of running the cables fairly tidy and then slapped this in there: Now nobody will ever know what sins lurk beneath 😉 I haven't started working on the actual panel that will go there yet, waiting on some dry weather up here as I need to cut some acrylic outside. But once I get that done I can then get it bonded to the panel frame and start working on that. So shouldn't take too long. With the back kinda sorted out for now, it was time to return my attention to the interior of the case: I was pleasantly surprised with how it looks in person so far, the glossy acrylic really shines; which ends up giving a nice combination of reflecting light as well as letting some through. Next on the agenda was to start working on the basement. This is another part of the build that I wasn't sure whether it would give me the effect I wanted or not, so I just very quickly took some off-cuts and slapped them in there to give myself an idea of whether it was going to work or not: The image probably doesn't do the visual effect much justice, but sure enough it is functioning as a lightbox fairly well. So I was very relieved it would work as intended. As of today I've got 3 weeks and 1 day to get the build finished and a video made. So in reality that translates to between 1-2 weeks left, depending how much time I want to leave for filming and the subsequent editing. The outstanding items still to be completed are: Finish off basement and the trim/frame for the side panel Clean up interior and put in 'stuff' Finish fabrication then Prime/Paint/Gloss Front and Top Panels Fabricate and then Prime/Paint/Gloss Rear Panel Glass Etching So I think I should have enough time to get those items done. With that being said though, I will likely only have another 1 or 2 updates this month. Well, before the video goes live at least; as I want some of it to be surprise after all. Anyway, thanks for popping by and make sure to stay safe folks!
  10. 1 point

    Project: I.S.A.C. by Andy Makin

    good work man !!
  11. 1 point

    Project: I.S.A.C. by Andy Makin

    Hi-diddly-hey modderinos! Welcome to the project log of my entry in the Thermaltake 2020 Case Mod Challenge; Project: I.S.A.C. - themed on Tom Clancy's The Division 2, a game by Ubisoft Massive. For the competition, 5 of us have been given the same components to do a case mod with and we have until 15th June to complete our mods. I'll try and post regular updates to keep you updated on the progress. A huge thanks to all of the sponsors for making this competition possible; Thermaltake UK, Scan Computers UK, AMD, ASUS and Seagate. First off lets have look at the parts we'll be using for the mod: Thermaltake View 51 Tempered Glass Snow ARGB Edition Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 850W PSU Thermaltake ThoughRAM RGB 32GB 3000MHz Seagate FireCuda 520 500GB M.2 PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD Seagate IronWolf Pro 14TB NAS 3.5" SATA HDD ASUS ROG Strix X570-F Gaming AMD Ryzen 7 3700X ASUS Radeon RX 5700 8GB 300mm Thermaltake TT Premium PCIe 3.0 Extender Thermaltake TtMod Sleeved Cables & Combs Kit Pacific V-RX 5700 Series Plus GPU Waterblock Thermaltake Pacific C360 DDC Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit and Hard Tube Bending Kit Again huge thanks to Thermaltake UK, Scan Computers UK, AMD, ASUS and Seagate for sponsoring the competition. I'll be back soon with some progress, so stay tuned Crap fans. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Hi Everybody, I'm Tom from sunny Birmingham, UK. I work as a software engineer / web developer which I've been doing since university and mainly play PC games and run in my spare time. Been building and modding computers since around 15. My first mod was a side window cut-out and blue CCFL tube lighting, was so proud of that at the time (simpler times). Started water cooling at university on an overlclocked Q6600 which kicked out a lot of heat and kept it up ever since. Current PC is an ITX build with a 280mm and 120mm rad which has been a little workhorse / hotbox for the past year. Onto this considerably more substantial build as a result of being selected for the Thermaltake UK 2020 Case Mod Challenge which has been awesome 😄 and the perfect distraction from current events. Been spending the past couple weeks getting everything together for the planned mods. Anyhow, onto the parts list: Thermaltake View 51 Snow AMD 3700X Thermaltake TOUGHRAM RGB 3000MHz 4x8GB ASUS ROG STRIX X570-F Gaming ASUS Radeon RX 5700 500GB Seagate FireCuda 520 14TB Seagate IronWolf Pro Thermaltake Pacific C360 DDC Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit Thermaltake Pacific V-RX 5700 Series Plus GPU Waterblock Thermaltake Water Cooling Pacific Hard Tube Bending Kit 300mm Thermaltake TTMod Sleeved Cables 300mm Thermaltake TTPremium PCIe Extender 850W Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 A couple photos of all the parts received: Thank you to Thermaltake, AMD, ASUS, Seagate and Scan for sponsoring and who've done a great job at getting the parts together in such trying times. Will be updating this thread over the coming weeks with my progress, at the moment just going to do a quick test set-up and take some case measurements. Best of luck for everyone in the competition and happy building! 😀 Tom
  14. 1 point

    Colin McNally - project motogp

  15. 1 point
    Colin McNally

    Colin McNally - project motogp

    Hi I'm colin Mcnally from consett in durham. Iv been building gaming PC's for around 10 years when I started sim racing after moving from console's. The last 2 years iv started doing full custom water loops in mine and a few friends PC's. This will be my first themed build so I thought I would include my other hobbie/passion which is motorbikes. Project motogp will include moving parts and a motorbike stand. I'll like to thank all the sponsors for all the hard work in these tough times for making this possible. The first parts from scan arrived yesterday which include ThermalTake View 51 Snow ASUS ROG STRIX X570-F Gaming ASUS Radeon RX 5700 500GB Seagate FireCuda 520 14TB Seagate IronWolf Pro 850W Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 Thermaltake Pacific Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit Thermaltake Pacific V-RX 5700 Series Plus GPU Waterblock Thermaltake Water Cooling Pacific Hard Tube Bending Kit 300mm Thermaltake TtMod Sleeved Cables 300mm Thermaltake TT Premium PCIe Extender With more parts coming soon I'll be starting my build in the next few days and will post as much as I can. Thanks again to Thermaltake Scan computers AMD seagate Asus Ttuk2020casemodchallenge I'll also like to wish the other 4 competitors the best of luck stay safe and have fun building.
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    Colin McNally - project motogp

    Starting to come together mate keep it up looking forward to the final product
  17. 1 point
    Starting to take shape nice and clean.
  18. 1 point

    Project: I.S.A.C. by Andy Makin

    Some great craftsman ship there keep up the good work
  19. 1 point
    It's Friday, it's deadly hot outside, my shed is now a kiln and I've got a broken tooth throbbing away. That can only mean one thing...... UPDATE TIME!!!!! Seems like forever since last time, so much has happened, so many ups and downs, there's a whole load of pictures so I'll try and keep it brief. Maybe.....😅 So we left off with the cpu block cover cut, bevelled and a little sanding done, but a lot more needed to be done to finish it off. I strapped some 400grit sandpaper to a piece of furniture board and went to town. Came out pretty nice. Then moved down to 600 grit, this time with the piece stuck to the wood and the sandpaper on a block. I had finished off and then managed to scratch it again 😖 So annoyed with myself, but it would likely need refinishing after the next step, need to crack on. I wanted to try and get a polished look on the bevel, at least have it smooth and shinier than the face. so I dry sanded it with 600 grit, then 1200 grit, then wet sanded with 1200. Next up came the polishing wheel, I'd do about 1/4 of the edge at a time, then rotate it 1/8 so it overlapped well. Used some smurf #### polishing compound with it. Managed to get it looking pretty nice, some of the polishing had slipped onto the face, but I was expecting that to happen and would be dealt with in a final sanding of the face. Once again I strapped paper to the flat board (600 this time), this way I figured the 2 flat surfaces together would just do the face and not the bevel. Whilst I was able to sand the face without the bevel getting scratched, it wasn't sanding evenly, very odd. I thought it might be the janky way I'd stuck the paper down, so I'd go back down to 400 to even it up but I had ran out, as had the 2 Screwfix, a Toolstation, B&Q and Wickes that were local to me. 🙄 Whilst waiting for replenishment of sandpaper I had lots to do on the motherboard piece. First off was to take some of the back out where this cap was. Back to the makeshift milling machine! Didn't have too much drama milling it out, had one little wobble, but I gave it regular squirts from the metal cutting lubricant and it smoothed out. Very nice. 👍 But does it fit? Sure does! 😄 Now I had to tackle the big fan hole, couldn't leave that open and bare. Some nice brass mesh might sit well in there. 😉 I clamped the armour down with the hole over the gap in the workmate and pushed the mesh into the hole, first with the hammer head face, then using the screwdrivers bit holder to push it into the edge. Voila! Now it was time to tackle the finishing on the front of the armour, look lovely, but too shiny to go with the motherboard heatsinks. With a large awkward shape I decided it would be best to stick it to the wood. When doing the cpu piece in this manner I noticed the bits that didn't have tape on wouldn't get sanded as much as they'd bow with the pressure, so I wanted to make sure it was well covered to get a nice even finish. Maybe a little too much? ðŸĪ” First off was the 320 grit Mirka pad. Nice. After this I went onto the 1200 grit grey Mirka pad... Noice. 😁 Now time to get it off the board. Just pull it up here, just pluck it, oh, hmm. It seems to be a bit stuck. Thought I'd heat it up with a heatgun to ease it up. Started at 50, think i went up to 100C in the end. It began to pull up a little, a corner here, a corner there, finally got an edge going. I was using a thin metal scrapper to get under where I can, using a chisel to leaver it up. Yeh a chisel. You can see where this is going can't you..... ðŸĪŽ Devastation.😭 Looked quite deep, felt deep too. I swore a lot, managed to get the metal off the wood, swore a bit more, almost cried, I thought it was game over, but managed to bring it back from the brink and sand it out. Think it felt deeper than it was as the edges of the gouge would have protruded from the displaced material. Such I heart stopping moment though. I needed a cigarette after and I haven't smoked in 4 years! 😂 It was then very carefully cleaned and quickly sprayed. It was looking good, added a second light coat, still good, one bit looked like it wasn't quite as covered so did a third coat, at which point I got a couple of spitty bits from the spray can :sigh: It would probably be fine once it dries, but I should have left it. Always have to overdo things when they aren't quite perfect and then they get worse. It's so annoying. (this is pre-spray) Luckily it turned out absolutely stunning ðŸ˜ē😍 (Larger expandable pic) Unluckily it was when the heatwave kicked off and it had got so hot in the shed that the clear coat had got soft and a little tacky and I got finger print impressions in it. I had to remove the whole lot. 😔 To be honest I'm not entirely convince the clear-coat I got is suitable for bare aluminium. When I first got it I contacted Rustoleum to check and they said it would be fine to use on it's own. Maybe it was the heat, maybe it's just not the right stuff, but I don't really have the time and funds to be experimenting with that kind of thing at the minute, so I'll leave it bare for now and maybe look at it again towards the end if I have time. Now onto the the brass hole cover. It looked good, but something wasn't quite right. Should have had the wire in the mesh align with the angled edges of the armour of course. I even set it like that in the first pic I showed of it. Silly me. 🙄 I quickly knocked up a new piece with the mesh lining up at the right angle and then taped the bejesus out of it with the fan guard I'd made earlier for a test fit. It did not fit. 😔 I'd forgotten that I'd ended up getting mesh with larger holes than originally planned as I didn't want it to be too restrictive. Larger holes meant larger diameter wire and quite the difference in mesh height. I had been waiting an age for the mesh and had made the fan shroud before the mesh came. I thought about attaching it all to the armour anyway and then milling it down (I did think that might have to happen anyway to get the right height), but I wasn't confident in the strength of the bonds in the pieces of the shroud, Since it had broke in 2 already, I did not want odd pieces flying across the shed while milling, so I resided to leaving the shroud out for now. I might try again later with a small strip bent to shape, but I've got to crack on for now. To attach the mesh I returned to our good friend JB Weld. I covered the back of the mesh in masking tape, spread the JB weld onto the mesh leaving a gap around the raised hole section so non would go into that space from any spread. I then placed the mesh on the armour and lined it up with the angled edges before pressing the tape down and clamping a piece of aluminium sheet over it to keep it flat and the pressure even. Worked pretty well. There wasn't any ingress into the main hole, but there was some into one of the screw holes. Soon had that cleared out. Cut the back with a stanly knife then cleared to hole with a file and deburring tool. The holes for the screws that actually attach it to the board would need some washers underneath so the 2 surfaces would meet properly. For this I will use some brass washers; an M4 the screw would actually pass through, then and M3 and M2 for the screw to sit on and put pressure onto and make it up to the right height. This should give a nice little brass edge to them to match the mesh. I decided to glue them together before glueing them to the armour. While they were drying I went back to the CPU block cover. I'd managed to get some more 400 grit sandpaper from Halfords, got it taped to some wood and started sanding it carefully. But it still wasn't sanding evenly, was the wood flat? Yes. Sandpaper ok? Yep. Hmmmm. Oh, is the cover flat? Nope. Definitely bent. :duh: Seems because of the shallow jaws of my clamp and the pressure of the polishing had got it quite out of shape. I did my best to get it flat and for the best part it was, but also not quite. In the end I had to abandon the polished edge and use the Mirka pads to brush it. Disappointing, but not the end of the world. I had been told by someone in the know (a lecturer of art who specialises in metalwork and such) that what I was attempting was very difficult, but I gave it a shot anyway. Still looked good. Shame I forgot to take any pictures of the entire process 😖🙄😅 With that done and the glued washers drying I thought it was time for a sneak peak Maybe less sneaky? Happy with the result I went in to cool off and do some physio. After I was looking back at the pictures I'd taken and I wasn't happy with the cpu block cover. I'd brushed it with the same pads I'd already used on the motherboard armour and it hadn't quite come out as well. So I went back and cut some new pads and did again with fresh 320 and 1200 pads. MUCH better. Shame I can't rid the armour of streaks entirely. Used isopropyl alcohol which I would have thought would leave it streak free, but would still leave some. But it does look so good. At least I think so anyway. 😄 Just got to glue those washers on and they're all done and it's time to move back to the case. With that it's all over for this update Crapfans. I'll leave you with a few more pics of the finished motherboard, which I'll post without the URL link and a larger size for you all to ogle at 😍. Stay tuned for the next enthralling roller-coaster ride that is Project ISAC. Same Crap time, same Crap channel. Until then Crapfans....
  20. 1 point
    Hello friend You can get direct activation code from mcafeepro and also will get the solution of any issues which you are facing with your account when you going to Mcafee Total Protection Login page. Just follow the instruction here to get instant solution. Thanks
  21. 1 point

    Level 20 Series

  22. 1 point
    Awesome progress! Love the clean look! :))
  23. 1 point
    Hey there folks, been a little while since my last update. I had originally planned to get a fair bit done last weekend and have an update for Monday, but things didn't work out that way. But anyway, what progress has been made since the last time? The front and top panels were not going to plan, which is definitely my own fault. I think I misjudged just how tricky doing the things I wanted to with the acrylic would end up being! After seeing how the first run ended up looking, it also made me realise that I would end up painting those bits anyway; as the raw acrylic would look slightly out of place. So I decided to try a different material: Yep, that is going to work a lot better. Need to do some finishing work to it of course, fill in the gaps and sand smooth. But at least this mock-up gives you an idea of what my plan was for these areas. Hopefully the final product will look alright! I had ran out of supplies, so just put those pieces to the side for now. With the holes all lined up I could now turn my attention to the fan/radiator brackets: I trimmed off some of the front fan mount so it's less busy, then gave both mounts the usual primer then paint. Unfortunately I was out of clear and couldn't purchase any locally, so had to wait until this Friday until I could give them a few coats of that. Since that was on hold, I turned my attention to the interior of the case. I figured that whilst I have a lot of exterior work to complete yet, I could potentially get the inside sorted in the meantime. So that is exactly what I started on: The rubber moulding/trim isn't quite perfect at the moment, but is lined up fairly well for now. Whilst all of my measurements for the acrylic panels were fine, once I popped all the bits in I soon found that I needed to sand some of the edges down a little more. It was definitely a tight fit. Speaking of tight fits, it took me ages to get the GPU in; I'm still amazed I didn't crack the acrylic in the process. I really should have put that in before the rear acrylic piece, but oh well: Before I get bombarded with comments about having the exhaust at the bottom and the 'but heat rises' argument, yes I know. I am no stranger to the concepts of cooling a PC, and the decision to have all the fans orientated the way they are is purely aesthetic. Whlst the 200mm Riing Trios have lighting on the front and rear, the 120mm Riing Quads do not. So they needed to be orientated this way to provide the lighting necessary for the other acrylic pieces yet to be installed. But with that being said, the airflow that will be present within the case is more than enough to overcome the mechanics of convection. I installed a single fan guard on the fan underneath the GPU, so as not to catch the riser cable. Those fans won't be visible anyway, so no biggie. Just today I managed to apply clear coat to the fan mounts as well as the small front panel, so the plan is to get those installed tomorrow so I can carry on with the interior. Once the rest of the fans are installed, then I can start on some cable management around the back: Whilst I will naturally try to make things as neat as possible back here, most of it will end up being covered anyway in order to faciliate the plan for the rear side panel. I also wanted to add a little easter egg for my stepdaughter. Even so she already has a PC (which I made from old bits several years ago), this will be a proper PCMR build; so plopped a cheeky sticker on the unused drain cap for her: So whilst I wait on things to dry before moving on, I thought I would start working on something else: That's all for now, thanks once again to everyone that has been stopping by or keeping tabs on my progress; the support is greatly appreciated. Hopefully the next update will be the interior all sorted out. Stay safe!
  24. 1 point
    That looks really cool 👌
  25. 1 point

    TT RGB Plus Software Issue

    So since installing the software, I have found that it blocks the screensaver from activating on my PC. I've tested by closing the app, setting screensaver to 1 minute, and after 1 minute my screensaver came on. Opened the app, waited 1 minute, no screen saver. Waited 5 minutes, still no. Closed the app again, waited 1 minute, and screen saver activated. Something in this software is preventing my PC from becoming "idle"
  26. 1 point

    TT RGB Plus - UAC - Popup

    Its a known issue. I hope they fix it as well.
  27. 1 point


    Good luck to you all!
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the encouragement guys, much appreciated. Would have replied sooner, but spinning a lot of plates at the moment; I'm sure many can relate! 32GB of Thermaltake TOUGHRAM RGB and an AMD Ryzen 7 3700X arrived last week: So quickly put the core components together to make sure everything was working alright. The ROG Strix X570-F Gaming is good looking motherboard, and there is plenty of space in the View 51: Using PCIE Gen 4, the Firecuda 520 should be blistering fast. Was also nice to see that using the 1st M.2 slot does not cause the X16 slot to bump down to X8 like on previous generations (X470/370). Whilst I have not installed it just yet (I want to keep it safe and sound), the 14TB Ironwolf Pro is an absolute monster: The TOUGHRAM is some good looking memory, and the Ryzen 3700X is sitting underneath the Wraith Max cooler. For a stock cooler it is admittedly pretty decent, but this build is destined for a custom loop. The stock cooler on the AMD Radeon RX 5700 from Asus also functions alright, but gets pretty loud when the fan get up to higher speeds. Another component that will greatly benefit from a water block. The Toughpower GF1 is an 80 PLUS Gold certified fully modular PSU, 850W is more than enough for the job. With everything installed fairly quickly (did not put any effort into cable-managment of course, as it will all be coming back out again), it was time to make sure the PC booted alright and everything worked as intended. Sure enough, everything worked without any issues. After dialing in a few settings within the BIOS, it was then time to make sure that the PCIE extender also worked. Yep, everything is working just fine. Whilst I'll be fairly 'radio silent' for a couple of weeks yet due to exams and whatnot, I will have a couple of updates that I prepared earlier. Not related to the design, but as far as tweaking a few bits and pieces. But as soon as my academic work is out of the way, I'll get torn into this project and keep you up to date!
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