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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2018 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Tt Andy

    Voting Stage Two

    2018 Thermaltake CaseMOD Invitational Season 2 - TT Talent Stage Two - Voting has started! All you have to do is vote for your favorite modder for this season on the poll on or before 12/4/2018 11:59pm PST! We are also giving 3 lucky voters the chance to win a Level 20 VT chassis, just for voting! so don't miss out! Below are the videos by the modders: UK Alex Banks Alex_Banks_UK-A_life_of_colour__Season_2.mp4 Argentina Andrés Sebastián Barés Andres_Argentina.mp4 Brazil Douglas Alves Douglas Alves Brasil_Brazil.mp4 Germany Stefan Ulrich Stefan_Ulrich_Germany.mp4 South Africa Stuart Henning Stuart Henning - TT Casemod 2018 S02 - TT Talent Round 2.mp4 Vietnam Nguyen Dinh Ban Ban_Vietnam.mp4
  2. 1 point
    The Top 6 modders of TT Telent has been announced! Congratulations to the top 6 modders Whats involved in the next stage? Modders need to submit a video introducing/promoting TT RGB PLUS ecosystem with Riing Trio fans by 2018/11/22, 11:59 PST.
  3. 1 point
    I plugged everything into the right places re-plugged used the wrong and right software still get same error. Bios and Aura sync works with it I can change colors and control fan speed but when I use your own software I get the error. Can't even use the app as that doesn't work either the version I used was RGB plus 1.2.4_x86 and still error I have Asus z370-e motherboard. I just want a fix cause I bought the controller and 6 fans so don't want them to go to waste.
  4. 1 point
    I thankfully had it in one of my folders, send me a PM and we can figure out how to get it into your hands.
  5. 1 point
    Hi all. My "Errror Code:H_0x0001" story is a little bit different like others. Its not software problem. My two controller is ruined. (physically dead) I buy a 2x20cm Riing Plus and 3x14 Riing Plus fans (pack) and all working good. After 1 week i play a game and my PC is turned off automatically. Ok. Restart. After restart my PC i get the Errror Code:H_0x0001 (controller not connected to USB) Hmmmm interesting. I try to reconnect my controller but nope, the app is not see my controller. I think its died. No problem is have two more controller. (two from the 20cm fans) I connect the new controller and its working again!!! But LOL. Working... only worked for 1 day. Dead again. No USB connect or disconect sound if i try the USB cable connect and disconnect. So yes, the controller is dead physically. Now i use my third controller BUT! i use the updated new power cable. The first two controller is use the "old" power cable. (this cable included in the 3x14cm Riing Fans Pack) So i think the "old" power cable is kill my two controller? I don't know. The third controller is testing with the updated new cable. Pictures: Video from the first time working controller: PC Specs: Asus Maximus X 7700K GTX1080 TI 32GB DDR4 Thermaltake 1050W Thanks for the help.
  6. 1 point
    I have exactly the situation. Bought two sets, not so long ago less than a month ago. It looks like a manufacturing defect. Do not contact tech support. They are silent, but one answer.
  7. 1 point
    I have exactly the situation. Bought two sets, not so long ago less than a month ago. It looks like a manufacturing defect. Do not contact tech support. They are silent, but one answer.
  8. 1 point
    And here we are again.. my third controller is dead... The fans spinning with the default speed and rainbow colors but: I try all my all USB ports, i try reinstall the software i try another power cable. No connect and disconnect sound in Win 10 Pro 64bit after i disconnect and conect my TT Fan Controller. Not working! But why not working?? The internet is full with this ........g issues! Why not fixing this Thermaltake Team??? WHY?????? If my CPU is die because your fans is not spinning correctly I complain to whole team! We meet in court! Big Thanks Thermaltake! Big THANKS! -.-'
  9. 1 point
    Not only you have this problem... i have this problem too. And no fixing.. the thermaltake team is don't care about the users. I write an issue ticket with the official site but i never get answer. This is my first Thermaltake product but my last one too. And i make a don't buy Thermaltake video on YT and link to every forum! BIG THANKS THERMALTAKE TEAM! My topic: https://community.thermaltake.com/index.php?/topic/77099-two-tt-rgb-fan-controller-is-ruined-but-why/
  10. 1 point
    @kewlmunky - thanks for that info, I will reach out to them. In other news, I ended up making a fix today that works without really any coding (other than copy/paste) using Task Scheduler. In Task Scheduler, create a new Task - call it whatever you want, I called mine "Thermaltake" Under the Triggers tab, create a new trigger and select "On an event" Select Custom and then Edit Event Filter... Under the XML tab, click the checkbox to Edit query manually then enter <QueryList> <Query Id="0" Path="System"> <Select Path="System">*[System[Provider[@Name='Microsoft-Windows-Power-Troubleshooter'] and (Level=4 or Level=0) and (EventID=1)]]</Select> </Query> </QueryList> The only option I have selected under Advanced is "Enabled" Under Actions you will create two. For the first one, create an action to "Start a program" and under Program/script enter taskkill - this closes the running instance In the Add arguments field enter /f /im "TT RGB Plus.exe" - this targets the app itself, if it doesn't work make sure you have the right process here Click OK and add another action For the program/script, browse to where your TT software is installed, mine is "C:\Program Files (x86)\Tt\TT RGB Plus\TT RGB Plus.exe" - this should be the same as step 7 A few other nits: Not sure if needed, but under Settings I have "Allow task to be run on demand" checked, this way I could run it to test before doing a sleep test I have "If the running task does not end when requested, force it to stop" checked And finally, I have set "If the task is already running, then the following rule applies:" set to Stop the existing instance Probably sounds more complicated than it is. Only takes a minute to set this up. It will be saved under Task Scheduler Library in case you need to tweak it. I have tested it and it seems to work well. Once you log back in or otherwise wake from sleep you should see the TT program quit then reopen. The only issue I see is the ghost tray icons which show in the bottom right of my task bar till I mouse over them. TT if you read this, this is why I am frustrated with you guys. You could have easily done this yourselves in many different ways. If there is indeed an updated cable I will got that route as it would seem like a better solve.
  11. 1 point

    Show us your chassis!

    Better join in since I just finished most the little things finally in my build. This is my Thermaltake P5 Aorus build Specs : Hardware - i7-8700k - OC to 4.8 Aorus ATC700 cpu cooler Aorus Ultra gaming 2.0 motherboard Nvidia RTX 2080 32g 3200mhz G.skill Trident ram Thermaltake 850w Gold power supply Samsung 256 960 evo (OS drive) Intel optane 32g matched to 8TB Seagate archive drive 128 Toshiba SSD 1TB Blue and 250g Green western digital M.2 SSD fitted to NGFF boards Custom lighting - Over 350 LED's, Lian li Strimer 24 and 8 pin, optic fiber lighting (lighting around motherboard and NFCC boards), custom infinity mirror power cable cover, and Thermaltake 3D printer fan bracket for rear top fan, Goverlay info screen, built bottom cover, Aorus SSD cover and Custom SSD cover made by JMMods (if you need custom backplates, covers and other things google the name and check out his website and youtube, inspired me to build my cable cover, does good work). sorry if the photos are not that great Thanks for having a look.
  12. 1 point
    Tack, I am happy to report that this latest route worked perfectly. Currently I have (2) TT Sync's controlling (18) connections via the XSPC splitter. So I use the ASUS Aura platform to control all of my RGB LED with the exception of the Thermaltake RGB Fittings. I am still stumped as to how to incorporate those with the Addressable header. Any thoughts? Thanks for all your help on this!!
  13. 1 point
    OO i like. Yes that would do the job. That must be newish as I have not seen that yet I might have to get me one of those
  14. 1 point
    One last attempt...haha! How about this one, Tack? http://www.xs-pc.com/fans-radiator-accessories/8-way-3pin-5v-addressable-rgb-splitter-hub-sata-powered-black
  15. 1 point
    Hello, 1. the ports dont matter as long as you connect the first port on the one side with the "DOT" on it. Also, if you are using fans on that side and want PWM control, you have to connect the PWM cable to it for each side and then control in the bios. Each side will all be the same yes. I dont think asus has a sequence mode on theirs that I saw, but I know we have it with our TT RGB Plus software so should not be an issue. 2. You can connect the Pump LED to anything, shouldn't matter. If you dont have any fans connected either to that side, you dont have to use the PWM, it will only work for fans. Speeds and settings for the LEDs are set in the MB software, it is not a physical connection or control off the sync controller. Should be fine to use the second controller for just the pump header LED, gives you some room as well for add ons later like some LED strips. I would also suggest if you can avoid putting all the load on one controller, split it up, but it still should not matter.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Any plans to add control of other vendors RGB components? For example Razer Chroma or Asus Aura? I understand that Asus Aura can control the TT Riing controllers, but what about flipping that and have TT RGB Plus control Asus Aura or Razer Chroma?
  18. 1 point
    Thanks! Had a few PM's about how I configured the small display to show System Specs via CAM software, thought I would share this here in case there are future questions. Running it as a 4th display via HDMI (tiny one at the bottom right). For the most part it works pretty well. I did have to use a simple 2 way HDMI switch when using the Oculus Rift. For some reason the Rift and the small 7in screen don't play well together, so I just use the switch to toggle between them when I have to use the Rift. Simple enough.
  19. 1 point
    No, I am using the EZDYI one from Amazon for now. Working great!
  20. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Final Build Pics This build is DONE!! That doesn't mean I won't make any changes, as I am a constantly tinkering with things, but the core system is ready to go. I still need to moidfy a few things at my desk and route cables before I move it over, but still calling the project done at this point. Not really any reason to describe each picture, so just going to post a bunch of them from different angles. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
  21. 1 point
    Yep - just came here to report that mine is working as well! Had a couple minor issues with getting the bend radius correct. I also had the issue with the screw hole lining up. I wish I had checked here first! I ended up draining my loop - which at first I was thinking I could avoid - and in the process, despite trying to be super careful with lots of paper towels, etc, I ended up dripping red coolant on my nice new desk and now it's pretty much ruined. Luckily my large steele series mousepad covers it up. It got it working, went to move the case back and it acted up again for a few - so maybe in a few months I'll use your mounting method - as I am experiencing a slight bit of droop - but, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right! I also got a response from Mike at Thermaltake, he is sending me a new one - I may try it out soon when I get another GPU. If it still doesn't work, I know which one to purchase. I'm definitely glad it worked, as I was starting to fear I'd have to plug it straight into the motherboard - making the purpose of this case null and void, and I'd have to re-do the tubing bends. I'll check back later and re-read your post about cables and such! Great work again man! making already want to plan out some updates for the future (like the wrapping)
  22. 1 point
    I am happy to report that the PCIe riser cable I purchased works perfectly! No more boot errors, benchmarks work, and I can even OC without issues. Here is the Amazon link if anyone with the Core P5 Case would like to give it a go. It seems a lot higher quality than the one provided by Thermaltake, and is shielded well. The only problem is that one of the screw holes doesn't line up exactly with the P5 case mount. I ended up using the screw on the side with the PCIe latch, and a zip tie on the other. Not ideal, but it works, and doesn't wiggle. One thing I made sure to do this time is not have any drastic bends, and to not bend anything near the connectors. Used a can of Pledge Spray as my guide for nice rounded bends. Now that I am back to having a 100% working system, I can work on getting this build finished up! Time for some leak testing.
  23. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Sleeving My last build incorporated sleeving from MDPC (MurderMods), and it turned out really good. I still have a lot of sleeving left over from that project, but decided to try something different for this build. I have heard a lot of things, both good and bad, about Paracord sleeving, so I decided to do a sample to see if it would work for this build. As I mentioned before, I like MDPC sleeving, but I find it a bit stiff to work with at times. So I purchased a few hundred feet of coreless paracord, which cost less than $25, and got started sleeving. In addition to the custom sleeving, I typically make my own power cables for each build. I find by doing this I am able to limit all the extra cable length taking up room in the case, and it allows for better looking cable routing. Here is a pic of the primary tools used for the job. Paracord (Black) Paracord (Royal Blue) Paracord (Slate Grey) Lutro Paracord Sleeving tool (makes job snag free) 100ft 18AWG Wire PSU Power Connector Pins (lots) MDPC Crimping Tool MDPC Pin Extractor Molex PSU Connector Heads (Various) Precision Titanium Snips Hobby Knife Bic Lighter After doing a few trail runs and deciding that I really like using Paracord, I set to work making my cables. In addition to looking great, and being very flexible, I like that with Paracord I can sleeve the cables without having to use heatshrink. I personally think it looks cleaner, and it cuts down the time required to get the job done. For most of the build I am using “Wire Wraps†that are 3D printed by Ensourced. I find they are really easy to work with, and look great once installed. They do a good job of keeping the sleeved cables tidy, especially when doing bends. Here you can see a comparison of my new paracord sleeved ATX connector vs my older one using MDPC sleeving. So pretty! Here we have another comparison of the two types of sleeving. Really impressed with the look and feel of the paracord. Also liking the combination of the 3 colors, and how well it goes with the rest of the build. The cable shown below is one I had to create later on in the process after I was having boot issues caused by me not adding a power connector to my USB 3.1 expansion card. You can see the cable plugged in the bottom part of this picture as well. Glad I got that one figured out! Here we have the final stage of the custom cables and sleeving in all it’s glory. Really liking how the colors look, and how clean the paracord sleeving turned out. Cable management in the back is good, but could be better. May work at securing everything down a bit more once I verify that everything is working the way it should. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
  24. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Hardline Tubing For this build, I decided to go with Monsoon Hardline PETG Tubing 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD. I initially had purchased PrimoChill PETG Tubing, but decided that the diameter was too thin and liked the look of â…†OD better. This is my first time “tube bending†so I purchased a lot of it since I knew that I had to account for the varoius screw ups that would occur. Luckily it is not very expensive. Since it was my first time working with hardline tubing, I had to acquire a few tools to make sure my bends look good. I already had a few things, like the rotary pipe cutters and a heat gun, but also picked up some Monsoon Mandrels to help form bends, a measuring kit, and a tube bending rig made by Barrow which came in really handy. I have noticed that a lot of people cutting tubing use a hacksaw, but I personally thing the rotary pipe cutter is a much better tool. Not only does is make very straight cuts, but it leaves no mess, and gives the tubing a nice beveled edge as can seen in the picture above, and ensures I don’t damage the o-rings when sliding them on for the fittings. The Barrows bending rig was very useful when doing more complex / multi angle bends, and assured not only my angles were dead on, but that the tubing was straight throughout the level plane I was working with. It also allowed me to keep things stable when doing larger 180 bends than what the Monsoon mandrel kit supported. Used a can of compressed air as a form for one of the bends, and it come out really nice. For the most part, my bends held true to my original 3D render which I was glad to see. One place where I had to simplify a bit is where the Motherboard outlet connected to the GPU block. I was initially going to go with a nice multi-bend solution, but realized after installing the fittings that my plan wouldn’t work. There wasn’t enough clearance between the fitting and the motherboard housing to do a 90 degree bend from that location. So I used my measuring kit to form a more simple “L†bend directly to the GPU block. Not as fancy, but the end result still looks great. Towards the end of the process, I was getting really good and quick at making quality bends. I may change things around at some point, but for now, I am happy with the end result. Time to move on to finishing up making some power cables and getting them sleeved. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
  25. 0 points
    Hard to say. Could be a bad quick disconnect port, but my guess is a faulty O-Ring. I would check the ones over near the leak area as they are pretty easy to damage.