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Gooood Moooorning Modding faaaaaaans! So with the motherboard heatsinks nicely brightened I couldn't just stick that black plastic shroud back over them. Luckily I have some 2mm aluminium laying about that I've had forever and this will make an ideal replacement. I started by tracing round the the original cover, but because it has mounting struts and other stuff underneath, this was better done turned upside down to get it flush(er) against the paper, which is why the drawing is backwards. Then I took measurements for the rest of the board so that I could expand it out a bit and cover up more of the motherboard. This is the area I want to cover, colour coding showing the original and then different additional bit that I might want to add. I did the drawing on card so that it would stay relatively flat once cut out and got it lined up with the mounting point and punched them through. Once on the board it didn't look right having a lot of square corners given the boards original angular designs, so I marked out bits I'd want tweaking with rough angles from the heatsinks. Back off the board I used the cover to get the proper angles and see about different levels of cropping. Couple of snips later and I think we have a winner! Now this was a fairly rough drawing so I then traced round this template in pencil and took to the drawing board to get all the lines true. Again I used the original to get the angled lines in, it was an awkward angle and I don't have anything like a sliding bevel. I could still find ones that were out like the one I circled in orange. With a couple of lines done this way I then turned the paper so the the angle was horizontal, checked them against each other to make sure they were correct and then filled in the rest. With the design completed I did a couple of photocopies and also scanned it for safe keeping. From right to left we have the original plan, the final design, the photocopy to be used as a template and the aluminium, with the original cover centre and glue to stick the template on. Only that's completely the wrong glue 😖 Looks more like spider spooge. 🤣 Still, it stuck that template down pretty good, if a little on the lumpy side. I also had to rub dirt around the edges where there was no paper to remove the tackiness of the glue and stop the jigsaw from sticking. That very morning I had been reading up on a cool little scratch build someone was doing as their first mod and advising themon how to cut outside the line and file in, so what do I do on the very first cut? Cut BANG ON the line 🤬🙄 It was the edge on the far right next to the SATA ports so wasn't a complete catastrophe, but was very careful and took my time with the rest and came out fine, although the small vertical edge under the angular protrusion top right was hard to get at. The Filing went ok, I'd bought a set of steel jaws for the workbench to clamp it in which helped keep it nice and steady. This tight angle was tough though as I didn't have a triangular file that matched or was under that radius. i had to edge in with the half round file, flipping it over every few strokes. A bit of folded sand paper helped get it a bit tighter, but it put up a good fight, Took a good lot of doing, had to go at it in a few goes to save me from injury. But was all this mess worth it? It fits! 🤘 There were a couple of areas that needed work that I highlighted in green, either to straighten them up, change the angle or stop it overhanging headers I'll need access to. Bang on. 👌 To get it to sit flush in the recesses of the M.2 heatsinks I needed to drill holes for the screws holding the heatsinks down. To mark where they were I put masking tape on the back, coloured the screw heads with whiteboard marker and pushed the piece onto them, being careful that it lined up with where it needed to sit. Seemed to work well. I used a punch to mark the centre and make sure the drill bit didn't wander. I thought the screw heads were 4mm so I drill a hole with a 4.2mm bit to give a little wiggle room, but I must have measure the wrong screws (the ones that will mount this to the motherboard i think) as they were a little too small. I needed 5.37mm holes minimum. My step bit had a 7/32" step which is 5.56mm and would do the job nicely. Unfortunately, due to either a wandering bit or inaccuracies in how I got the positioning the top hole was just out. 😞 To be honest I wasn't THAT upset. There were a few edges that were a bit naff and there were a couple of tweaks I wanted to make, so I widened those holes a fair bit so I could get it into place, check the fitment elsewhere and make sure the markings for the mounting holes were accurate, which they were. And just for fun I took off the paper and gave it a really quick and dirty "brushing" with a washing up scotch pad, but was mostly just from trying to get all that nasty glue off. Still looks pretty tasty 😍 It's a shame it's going to end up in the recycling, but for a first whack it's not gone too badly. I had prepared myself that it might take a couple of goes to get it right and with the design tweaks for Mk II already in my head, I wouldn't have been happy till I'd redone it anyway. So stay tuned crap fans! Plenty more of Makin's metal manipulation to come. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.

Thanks mate. After mulling it over though, I’m just not happy with it. It has become way too ‘busy’ due to that thick rad. I think I’m just going to bite the bullet and put it up top with the fans off-centre: For the components that are in there, a single 64mm radiator should be more than enough. So if I just go with the single: I’ll have much more ‘canvas’ and it should look a lot cleaner and less busy. At least that’s what I’m thinking; and my girls like it better this way, so I’ve got to listen to them! Whilst I did like the actual runs from the first iteration, this should work. Now we have a bit more space for whatever the #### we (I say we, my step-daughter is in charge of artwork) end up putting there.

The eagerly anticipated second delivery came in this week! A few fittings unfortunately came in chrome rather than black, which I imagine is due to issues with stock; which is completely understandable given current events. The extra-thick radiator did however really catch me by surprise. My intent was to install a 2nd Pacific C360 radiator at the front, for a total of 2 radiators (top and front). After a good couple of days trying different layouts, it became clear that I would have to have the slim rad up top and the thick rad at the front. Not only is the Pacific CL360 thicker, it is also a fair bit wider as I soon found out: Whilst it has all the mounting holes in the 120mm position, the actual dimensions of the radiator are that of the 140mm position. The knock-on effect is that I have to trim the notches for the acrylic a bit more, which isn't too bad; but it also resulted in having to experiment with the positioning of the Pacific DP100-D5 distribution plate. I also got my pipe-cleaners out to try and get an idea of possible tubing runs: Wasn't too keen on this first iteration, so pondered over it for a little while and tried again: As you can see, the 64mm thick radiator brings some issues. The View 51 only officially supports such a thick rad in the area that the distro plate currently sits. It kind of fits up top, but requires to be offset a fair bit; resulting in the fans being off center. So the front will have to do. It also unfortunately intrudes on quite a bit of space where artwork was orginally going to be, so will have to go back to the drawing board a little bit there as well. Once I trim and install the acrylic we will be able to get a better idea of how to proceed. As you can see, the distro plate also has to end up sitting quite low in order for drain port clearance. This also means that only 2 fans will be able to fit down below. Right, so before diving into more fabrication and prepping for paint etc., I wanted to make sure the components were working and that the radiators didn't have any leaks. I'd much rather take the time now to check, than find out AFTER all the work has been done. The run from the top radiator to the CPU block will definitely have to be remade, I was off by fair bit and really had to force placement. Fairly happy with the GPU>radiator run though. The CPU>front rad run is alright, but I will likely bend a fresh one later on. Originally it was going to enter the other port on the radiator, but the run from port back to the distro plate was just way too sharp; so had to change it up at the last minute. Whilst I do love the look of perfectly perpindicular bends, I also really like curvy ones like this little rascal. This one will definitely be a keeper. I also like the angle at which the previous bend had to it. The final run (first run in the loop order) sucks. Due to the position that I have to have the distro plate in, that port on the distro plate is too low. This bend will definitely be getting changed, I will most likely run from the higher port and come down at an angle like the CPU>fat rad run. But it will do for now for the sake of making sure everything works. Sure enough, that dodgy run had a slighly leak. The tubing was basically sliding out due to the tension on it, at least it will hold for this test. Thankfully that was the only issue. The D5 pump runs like a champ, and the radiators are rock solid with no leaks. The loop ended up taking 1.5L of fluid to fill, and getting all the air out was quite the headache; but I got there in the end. Mission accomplished, everything works and I have a better idea now of how the runs will likely look (they will be tweaked a fair bit by the end). Now time to drain the loop and dismantle everything. Having spent all of yesterday mucking around with the case, I am going to have to take a day or two of rest; my sciatica is unfortunately screaming at me. Next on the agenda is to modify/trim the acrylic sheet that was hugging the motherboard, now that the distro plate and thick radiator are there. Then I can move on to the remaining acrylic pieces that will inhabit the interior as well as around the fans. Once all of those have been done I can then move on to a full tear down of the case, a little bit of cutting, and then prep for paint. I also need to begin work on the back/side panel as well. Hopefully the weather this weekend cooperates with me! Thanks for stopping by folks, take care and stay safe!

Well so this is a rerunn of my first mod batcave. so i whanted to make a batcave 2.0.

Looking good mate

Welcome back guys. After a long time due to this damned Corona virus we resume this work and the worklog. Step 1. Serious work begins. In these photos we will see all the mechanization through electromechanical actuators of the lateral machine guns in test pre-assembly. As you can see I built the whole system from 0 and as guides I used 16/12 tubes for the guide casing and 12/10 tubes as a piston. I also integrated gas pistons which, in addition to stabilizing the movement which is very fluid, without jerks and linear, also serve as a support for the machine guns, keeping everything very stable and in axis. The actuator that will open the top cover is also mounted on the test. The details and the explanation on this detail in the next post. Later we will also see the machine guns completely disassembled and see how they were built. Stay tuned. Worklog also on: https://www.nexthardware.com/forum/worklogs/92203-project-interceptor-ah-t600-tactical-assault-special-extreme-mod.html https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/project-interceptor-ah-t600-tactical-assault-special-extreme-mod.373394/ Thermaltake Technology Inc Thermaltake-Italia ADATA XPG Global ASUS Republic of Gamers

I cut the middle out of the back panel welded a frame then added some more sprockets and brake discs and painted it all white then added the screen

I am also working on a project that is Firewater project 1.0, This Project Standard and Specification defines point conditions for water supply for fire-fighting missions. All officials concerned must work collectively to implement and support these smallest water quantities and discussions with municipality fire stations would cover not only the water possible from the hydrants but also serve to ensure the constant and sufficient flow of water for fire-fighting.

This is actually amazing.

HSame issue, for about a month or two now, i saw it poped once but not for long then went off again trying to fix it now

Also having the same problem. It's been like this for a couple months now at least and it really bugs me to see the rest of my lights looking so good and then the big dud right in the center ruining it all. Please fix this!