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Finally starting to get some where now iv got all the parts to complete the build. After 4 hours of trying to sort out my cables this is how it looks. Iv also made a mounting plate for my top radiator to help make it fit better and also tried to make look like is floating

Another update for this week, received a new delivery of parts, which is everything I need now, thanks Scan Computers and Thermaltake UK : Almost done on the painting side of things: Also took a chunk off the motherboard tray and gave it a coat of paint: And cut two plexiglas panels for the top and bottom to be modded (the top needs some more paint...):

Gooood Moooorning Modding faaaaaaans! So with the motherboard heatsinks nicely brightened I couldn't just stick that black plastic shroud back over them. Luckily I have some 2mm aluminium laying about that I've had forever and this will make an ideal replacement. I started by tracing round the the original cover, but because it has mounting struts and other stuff underneath, this was better done turned upside down to get it flush(er) against the paper, which is why the drawing is backwards. Then I took measurements for the rest of the board so that I could expand it out a bit and cover up more of the motherboard. This is the area I want to cover, colour coding showing the original and then different additional bit that I might want to add. I did the drawing on card so that it would stay relatively flat once cut out and got it lined up with the mounting point and punched them through. Once on the board it didn't look right having a lot of square corners given the boards original angular designs, so I marked out bits I'd want tweaking with rough angles from the heatsinks. Back off the board I used the cover to get the proper angles and see about different levels of cropping. Couple of snips later and I think we have a winner! Now this was a fairly rough drawing so I then traced round this template in pencil and took to the drawing board to get all the lines true. Again I used the original to get the angled lines in, it was an awkward angle and I don't have anything like a sliding bevel. I could still find ones that were out like the one I circled in orange. With a couple of lines done this way I then turned the paper so the the angle was horizontal, checked them against each other to make sure they were correct and then filled in the rest. With the design completed I did a couple of photocopies and also scanned it for safe keeping. From right to left we have the original plan, the final design, the photocopy to be used as a template and the aluminium, with the original cover centre and glue to stick the template on. Only that's completely the wrong glue 😖 Looks more like spider spooge. 🤣 Still, it stuck that template down pretty good, if a little on the lumpy side. I also had to rub dirt around the edges where there was no paper to remove the tackiness of the glue and stop the jigsaw from sticking. That very morning I had been reading up on a cool little scratch build someone was doing as their first mod and advising themon how to cut outside the line and file in, so what do I do on the very first cut? Cut BANG ON the line 🤬🙄 It was the edge on the far right next to the SATA ports so wasn't a complete catastrophe, but was very careful and took my time with the rest and came out fine, although the small vertical edge under the angular protrusion top right was hard to get at. The Filing went ok, I'd bought a set of steel jaws for the workbench to clamp it in which helped keep it nice and steady. This tight angle was tough though as I didn't have a triangular file that matched or was under that radius. i had to edge in with the half round file, flipping it over every few strokes. A bit of folded sand paper helped get it a bit tighter, but it put up a good fight, Took a good lot of doing, had to go at it in a few goes to save me from injury. But was all this mess worth it? It fits! 🤘 There were a couple of areas that needed work that I highlighted in green, either to straighten them up, change the angle or stop it overhanging headers I'll need access to. Bang on. 👌 To get it to sit flush in the recesses of the M.2 heatsinks I needed to drill holes for the screws holding the heatsinks down. To mark where they were I put masking tape on the back, coloured the screw heads with whiteboard marker and pushed the piece onto them, being careful that it lined up with where it needed to sit. Seemed to work well. I used a punch to mark the centre and make sure the drill bit didn't wander. I thought the screw heads were 4mm so I drill a hole with a 4.2mm bit to give a little wiggle room, but I must have measure the wrong screws (the ones that will mount this to the motherboard i think) as they were a little too small. I needed 5.37mm holes minimum. My step bit had a 7/32" step which is 5.56mm and would do the job nicely. Unfortunately, due to either a wandering bit or inaccuracies in how I got the positioning the top hole was just out. 😞 To be honest I wasn't THAT upset. There were a few edges that were a bit naff and there were a couple of tweaks I wanted to make, so I widened those holes a fair bit so I could get it into place, check the fitment elsewhere and make sure the markings for the mounting holes were accurate, which they were. And just for fun I took off the paper and gave it a really quick and dirty "brushing" with a washing up scotch pad, but was mostly just from trying to get all that nasty glue off. Still looks pretty tasty 😍 It's a shame it's going to end up in the recycling, but for a first whack it's not gone too badly. I had prepared myself that it might take a couple of goes to get it right and with the design tweaks for Mk II already in my head, I wouldn't have been happy till I'd redone it anyway. So stay tuned crap fans! Plenty more of Makin's metal manipulation to come. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.

I cut the middle out of the back panel welded a frame then added some more sprockets and brake discs and painted it all white then added the screen

Not much to report this week I'm afraid, still awaiting delivery of the remaining components from Thermaltake. It has worked out well however, as I was able to finish up all of my academic work without any distraction; just sitting my last exam yesterday. So now I am done with everything and just waiting for my results! As soon as the rest of the parts arrive, I will finally be able to really get stuck in; so this past weekend I decided to do a few preliminary things to get the ball rolling. Since the weather was nice I decided to take a stab at cutting my first piece of acrylic: This particular sheet is actually gloss white, but comes with a protective blue film on both sides. The film is quite handy for plotting your guidelines, as well as providing some surface tension to prevent cracks or splintering. I just used a cheap jigsaw (nothing fancy) but with a high-quality metal-cutting blade. As long as you keep the speed slow and with no articulation, cutting acrylic this way is fairly straightforward. Just remember not to go too fast, otherwise it will melt back together. The radiator/fan brackets also needed a little bit of cutting with a dremel: Just little slots to allow the acrylic sheet to be flush with the frame. An alternative option would have been to put notches in the acrylic, but doing it that way would require pinpoint precision; whereas this way I could basially 'eyeball' it. Not bad for a first test-fit. I will need to trim the top bracket a little bit more, as the acrylic isn't perfectly perpindicular at that top-left corner. Plenty of other little bits of cutting to do as well, for cable and tubing access; as well as more acrylic pieces to measure and cut for the rest of the inside. Unfortunately I can't do that until the rest of the cooling parts come, as I need the exact measurements. It is nice and bare back here for now, but once all of the power/argb/fan cables are in, it is going to be a nightmare to tidy up. Well that's it for now, weather permitting I will do a little more acrylic work over the weekend. Now that all my academic work is out of the way I plan on making steady progress relatively quickly. The sooner I get everything assembled and mocked up, it will be much easier for my step-daughter to plan out the 'artsy' stuff. She has plenty of ideas, but it can be difficult to visualise without having the blank canvas set up to see how everything will look/fit. In the meantime, take care folks.

Just another quick update, started painting the outer panels, the copper colour is a base coat before adding a coat of gold and then red on top, could still do with a couple more coats of red: Added a bit of grime to the smaller parts of the case which have all been painted (they looked a bit too pristine on reflection): Added DC and Ethernet ports to the HDD access door: Cut the hole for the screen at the back (still needs tidying up and the frame painting): Will get some time at the weekend when I'm hoping to: Finish up on adding grime / wear to the smaller parts of the case Tidy up the LCD screen's mounting Get some primer on the frame Finish all airbrushing on panels / smooth down surfaces for gloss lacquer on top

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE RIG! Round 2 has started! vote for your favorite rigs on the poll! Voting Ends: 5/20/2020 Timmy Parker - View 51 Marc Chibani - Core P5 Franco Warboy Martinelli - Core P5 George Antonopoulos - Core P5 AML Custom PC - A500 Rob "Deblow" Deluce - Level 20 GT tantric - Level 20 VT Douglas Alves Modding - Core V71 Turritopsis - Level 20 MT RYUTECH MODZ - Core P5 Илья Байда - Core P5 cristianomod - Level 20 GT primerajuly - Level 20 GT Explore Modding - Core P5 orkusmodding - Level 20 GT TantrumL - Core P5 TheTechAllen - Level 20 GT XneaLx ModPc Gaming - Level 20 VT Patrick Kahiga - View 71 Rich Stanton - Core P3

Thanks mate. After mulling it over though, I’m just not happy with it. It has become way too ‘busy’ due to that thick rad. I think I’m just going to bite the bullet and put it up top with the fans off-centre: For the components that are in there, a single 64mm radiator should be more than enough. So if I just go with the single: I’ll have much more ‘canvas’ and it should look a lot cleaner and less busy. At least that’s what I’m thinking; and my girls like it better this way, so I’ve got to listen to them! Whilst I did like the actual runs from the first iteration, this should work. Now we have a bit more space for whatever the #### we (I say we, my step-daughter is in charge of artwork) end up putting there.

The eagerly anticipated second delivery came in this week! A few fittings unfortunately came in chrome rather than black, which I imagine is due to issues with stock; which is completely understandable given current events. The extra-thick radiator did however really catch me by surprise. My intent was to install a 2nd Pacific C360 radiator at the front, for a total of 2 radiators (top and front). After a good couple of days trying different layouts, it became clear that I would have to have the slim rad up top and the thick rad at the front. Not only is the Pacific CL360 thicker, it is also a fair bit wider as I soon found out: Whilst it has all the mounting holes in the 120mm position, the actual dimensions of the radiator are that of the 140mm position. The knock-on effect is that I have to trim the notches for the acrylic a bit more, which isn't too bad; but it also resulted in having to experiment with the positioning of the Pacific DP100-D5 distribution plate. I also got my pipe-cleaners out to try and get an idea of possible tubing runs: Wasn't too keen on this first iteration, so pondered over it for a little while and tried again: As you can see, the 64mm thick radiator brings some issues. The View 51 only officially supports such a thick rad in the area that the distro plate currently sits. It kind of fits up top, but requires to be offset a fair bit; resulting in the fans being off center. So the front will have to do. It also unfortunately intrudes on quite a bit of space where artwork was orginally going to be, so will have to go back to the drawing board a little bit there as well. Once I trim and install the acrylic we will be able to get a better idea of how to proceed. As you can see, the distro plate also has to end up sitting quite low in order for drain port clearance. This also means that only 2 fans will be able to fit down below. Right, so before diving into more fabrication and prepping for paint etc., I wanted to make sure the components were working and that the radiators didn't have any leaks. I'd much rather take the time now to check, than find out AFTER all the work has been done. The run from the top radiator to the CPU block will definitely have to be remade, I was off by fair bit and really had to force placement. Fairly happy with the GPU>radiator run though. The CPU>front rad run is alright, but I will likely bend a fresh one later on. Originally it was going to enter the other port on the radiator, but the run from port back to the distro plate was just way too sharp; so had to change it up at the last minute. Whilst I do love the look of perfectly perpindicular bends, I also really like curvy ones like this little rascal. This one will definitely be a keeper. I also like the angle at which the previous bend had to it. The final run (first run in the loop order) sucks. Due to the position that I have to have the distro plate in, that port on the distro plate is too low. This bend will definitely be getting changed, I will most likely run from the higher port and come down at an angle like the CPU>fat rad run. But it will do for now for the sake of making sure everything works. Sure enough, that dodgy run had a slighly leak. The tubing was basically sliding out due to the tension on it, at least it will hold for this test. Thankfully that was the only issue. The D5 pump runs like a champ, and the radiators are rock solid with no leaks. The loop ended up taking 1.5L of fluid to fill, and getting all the air out was quite the headache; but I got there in the end. Mission accomplished, everything works and I have a better idea now of how the runs will likely look (they will be tweaked a fair bit by the end). Now time to drain the loop and dismantle everything. Having spent all of yesterday mucking around with the case, I am going to have to take a day or two of rest; my sciatica is unfortunately screaming at me. Next on the agenda is to modify/trim the acrylic sheet that was hugging the motherboard, now that the distro plate and thick radiator are there. Then I can move on to the remaining acrylic pieces that will inhabit the interior as well as around the fans. Once all of those have been done I can then move on to a full tear down of the case, a little bit of cutting, and then prep for paint. I also need to begin work on the back/side panel as well. Hopefully the weather this weekend cooperates with me! Thanks for stopping by folks, take care and stay safe!

Ahoy hoy mod fans! While I was waiting for the rest of the parts to turn up before I could do anything further on the case, I set my sights on some of the internals that could do with some tweaking. I needed to brighten the motherboard up as the main chamber of the case will have a bare metal finish and it would look like a black hole in amongst all the bright shiny metal. I've also never been much of a fan of modern motherboard heatsinks. I loved the fin-stacked heat-piped up solutions of yore and I'd even kept the one's off the Striker II NSE/Extreme boards for the ages after I'd binned the boards, but lost them in a move. 😔 What I did have was some Thermalright MOFSET heatsinks and a beefy Supermicro 1U copper cpu heatsink that I could use instead of or in combination with the existing ones Time to get this board stripped down. The CPU heatsink's mounting holes lined up perfectly with the mounting holes for the cover, almost like it was made to live there. Not sure it's supposed to come out like that 😳 Was very lucky not to strip any pins out of the CPU. Can just imagine how well that conversation would have gone down with Thermaltake 😅 After that heart exploding moment I gave the CPU, block and board a bit of a cleansing. This was the kind of setup I was looking at doing. I plan on milling a flat channel into the boards original heatsinks and using thermal glue to attach the Thermalright MOFSET heatsinks to them, rather than on there own. MOFSET sizes have grown a bit since these were made! There may be a bit of a fitting issue for the one on the left side MOFSET bank as it clashes a little with the IO shield. I'd rather keep that intact if possible. Those original heatsinks would still be too dark as is though, so we'll have to do something about that gun metal grey anodising. First off taking the fan off the chipset cooler, stripping the thermal pads (after measuring the sizes for their replacement) and giving them a good clean with TIM cleaner to remove the grease from the thermal pads, before they go for a little dip..... ... in some of this horrid stuff. Also know as Sodium Hydroxide. I'd picked up these old sweet containers to bathe the parts in and then rinse. Sadly I didn't get to eat the contents first, but given my ever increasing waistline that's probably for the best. I'd given them a good clean several times over and then a thorough rinse as I didn't want any contaminants in there that may react with the Sodium Hydroxide. You'll have to forgive me for the lack of pictures of the process, I was dolled up to the 9's in PPE (including a waterproof coat with a bin bag over it, was quite a sight) and didn't fancy getting my phone out whilst in the middle of it all. I placed the 3 tubs in the bath, seemed like a good place to do it as there's good ventilation in the bathroom and if things go south it can turn the taps on and ditch it down the drain quick. With the drain on my left, I used the left most container to have the solution in. I filled the other 2 with water as a 2 stage rinsing set up. I put 1 litre of water into the other and added 50g of sodium hydroxide crystals in gradually, in about 5 or 6 stages, mixing thoroughly with a toothbrush I had to scrub the pieces as the anodising came off. I used cold water to control/slow the reaction a bit so I could leave the pieces in long enough to get all the anodising off, without it just eating the aluminium away I put the large MOFSET cooler in first as I figured it could probably do with going in when it was fresh. It took a little while to get going and do anything, but sure enough bubbles started to come. I turned it over a few times, giving a little whirl in the fluid and you could see the colour fall off it. I then started giving it a helping hand with the toothbrush, especially in the little gaps. When the anodising had all come off I pulled it out and gave it a gentle shake, dropped it into the next tub with the clean water in, gave it a good whirl in there and and gentle clean with a second tooth brush, then into the third container for more fresh water, before finally putting it on some kitchen towels I'd set to the side to dry off. I then repeated the process with the rest of the pieces. The end result was better than I ever could have imagined 😍 The Aluminium on the newly stripped heatsinks is so bright, almost white. Look how it contrasts here to a piece of Aluminium sheet that I've had for a few years. And they look so good on the motherboard too! Super chuffed with the result. At least 3 chufty badges! Sadly the copper cpu block isn't going to fit, although given it's gargantuan size it shouldn't be all that surprising. I could have had a go at cutting off a corner here and there to get it to fit, but I don't think I've got the tools for the job and I'd probably end up ruining it. In all honesty with the amount of silver that's going to be around, the copper would probably look out of place anyway. Best to keep that for another day. I had a little test fit with the MOFSET heatsinks, either just sat on or with the help of an old thermal pad. Still not convinced that one on the left if going to fit without interfering with the IO shield. Thought I could maybe switch that one to the lower M.2 slot cooler. 🤔 In all honesty I'm not entirely convinced. Now I've got the stock heatsinks stripped, they look pretty dam cool. I have to be 100% sure as if I commit to it and it doesn't look good with the heatsinks on, I'll have wrecked the originals, so there's no going back. That can go on the back burner for now. There's a lot to be done still and I can always come beck to it later. It does look pretty dam sweet as is though. We got some new parts! 👏 Huge thanks to the guys at Scan (and DPD) for getting these over to us.🙌 Lots of fittings and adapters, a couple of litres of coolant, some 1m tubes for longer runs and backup for the inevitable mistakes, a nice thick rad and 9 of Thermaltake's new Riing Quad fans which I'm looking forward to getting snazzy with the NeonMaker software. I am NOT looking forward to the cable/sleeving job of 9 RGB fans 😭 Now putting heatsinks to one side, I'm still not done with the motherboard and whilst I have done some more stuff, it's not finished and I don't want to put it out half baked. I had hoped to finish it today but after 3 days of working on it on and off, this morning my body said no. 🤕 This seemed like a good place as any for a little update though, I hope you all enjoyed the show. For now I'll leave you with one last shot of those heatsinks in all their glittery glory. Hopefully I'll have another update for you later this week, so stay tuned crap fans! Same Crap Time, same Crap channel.

Update 2: 07/05/2020 Due to the corona virus it has limited on the amount of modding I can do. Due to having limited space in my house, I have no where to perform the modifications. This was originally going to be done at a friends house who has a workshop, Originally I didn't think the lockdown would last this long so I waited, however it looks like I am going to have to find the space.. I didn't want to leave you guys with nothing so here is what I have done so far. 1. I decided to build the parts in the case to see what the case is like etc. (without the watercooling). see image below. 2. Of course to get more performance out of the RX 5700 I flashed it with an RX 5700 XT Bios. This worked successfully and you get about a 7-10% fps increase. If you guys would like to see benchmarks of the difference I will be happy to make a video! 3. After waiting, I have recieved a bunch of parts needed for the modifications, I just need to start the updating, Notes: It will include, sandpaper, paint, saw, 3D printer, Laser Cutter, and dog tags

Thought I'd just do a quick update of some progress, so far have dismantled the case and started painting. The first is just a quick comparison of the silver with the recently released Xbox Controller, pretty pleased with the result, the back of the HDD cage has had a section cut out which is going to be used for power input for lighting / a raspberry pi: The raspberry pi mounted to one of the HDD slots (this is going to be used to feed a display showing PC stats): And various other pictures of progress, going to aim to finish all the smaller parts this week, then move onto painting the larger frame and panels next week:

Project "Cromium" Thermaltake Part used: Thermaltake Core P3 Thermaltake 2x RL360mm Radiator Been planning to build my 1st model Core p3 with Acrylic front panel, been using this case for almost 4years, its time to give it a make over., with simplicity yet elegant look.

Thermaltake Level 20 Series Level 20 Series Design Story Thermaltake has been evolving continuously over the past two decades in the PC DIY industry. From developing thermal ventilation optimization, gaming-oriented design to architectural aesthetics, we never stop striving to provide the best to the consumers. Thermaltake, while constantly improves on the PC hardware components, also always advocate for the Modding community. We understand the importance of appreciating innovation and maker movement, so we continually support and work with modders to advance the PC DIY industry together. To help us celebrate our 20th anniversary and reflect on our achievements, we gathered all the successful elements on what we have learned over the past two decades and combine with the latest trends in the market to form Level 20. Thermaltake Level 20 Tempered Glass Edition Full Tower Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Video Level 20, as an embodiment of Thermaltake’s cultural foundation, user-friendly consideration, and technology advancement, is a new flagship model that coincides with Thermaltake’s 20th anniversary. Featuring ventilation-focused, trio-chamber design with tempered glass and tool-less locking mechanism, speedy transmission (USB Type-C™ & USB 3.0), TT Premium Gaming PCI-E 3.0 Riser Cable, and integration with cutting-edge ‘TT RGB PLUS’ software/voice controlled members, including three built-in Riing Plus 14 LED RGB Fans, 2 Lumi Plus LED Strips and 1 Riing Plus Digital Controller, Level 20 is the true production of traditional refinement and contemporary mechanism to all the gamers and enthusiasts. Thermaltake Level 20 GT RGB Plus Edition Full Tower Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Media Reviews: 1. Mighty Gadget Video The Level 20 GT RGB Plus is the premium full tower in the level 20 range – specially outfitted with RGB Plus products. Level 20 GT RGB Plus features four tempered glass panels with locking hinged doors, E-ATX motherboard support and a removable power cover. The Level 20 GT RGB comes preinstalled with two Riing Plus 20 RGB in the front & one Riing Plus 14 RGB fans in the rear. These RGB Plus fans are custom-designed to work with our AI Voice Control software, as well as with Amazon Alexa. The lighting effects can also be synchronized with Razer’s RGB products via Razer Chroma software. Thermaltake Level 20 GT Full Tower Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Media Reviews: 1. BPS Customs 2. Gear Seekers 3. iRepairFast Thermaltake is thrilled to show the latest TT Premium product line – the Level 20 Series which commemorates 20 years of dedication to the PC industry. The level 20 GT is our new premium full tower in the Level 20 range. The Level 20 GT features E-ATX motherboard support, four tempered glass panels with a lockable hinged door design, the latest I/O port options (USB Type-C™ & USB 3.0), an all-new rotating PCI-E slot system, and removable power supply shroud. Thermaltake Level 20 XT Cube Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Thermaltake is thrilled to present the latest TT Premium product line – Level 20 Series which commemorates 20 years of dedication to the PC industry. Under this product line is the new Level 20 Series – Level 20 XT. Level 20 XT is a cube case specially designed to show off custom liquid cooling systems. The level 20 XT has a unique flat motherboard design that puts components on display from any angle, and a chamber design that separates cooling, PSU and hardware components in the upper and lower sections. The Level 20 XT takes our latest case innovations and wraps them in an ultra-modern style that’s utterly unique in the case market today. Stand out from the crowd with the Level 20. Thermaltake Level 20 VT Micro Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Thermaltake is thrilled to show the latest TT Premium product line – the Level 20 Series which commemorates 20 years of dedication to the PC industry. The Level 20 VT is the pocket rocket of the Level 20 series, offering massive support inside an M-ATX footprint. The Level 20 VT is designed to prove that micro cases don’t have to be small on power. It boasts a 200mm fan pre-installed at the front as well as great liquid cooling support, four 4mm tempered glass panels and interchangeable panels with filters. The VT also has a chamber design with a flat motherboard tray that lets you hide away cables while showing off liquid cooling hardware at the top. The Level 20 VT takes our latest case innovations and wraps them in an ultra-modern, space-conscious style that’s utterly unique in the case market today.

Ooft, what a week. So picking up where I left off, plan for this past week was to get all of the acrylic pieces hashed out. I wanted to get that out of the way, since it was going to be one of the more tricky items on the agenda. Sure enough, it was fairly tricky. Attempt #1 The holes for attempt #1 were slightly off, but nothing a little moulding/edging wouldn't be able to hide; same with the cutout for the pump and drain port. Unfortunately I had a bit of an accident when I was drilling the last hole, my step bit had got stuck and I accidentally applied to much pressure when trying to get it unstuck. Which resulted in a crack: Whilst only apparent when you get up close and personal, I knew I would have to try again. Attempt #2 I decided to take a short break from redoing that particular panel and started working on the rear and bottom. Ended up reusing the broken panel for the rear bit and did a test fit with the edging, fairly happy with it. Bottom still needs a fair bit of tweaking, but I was ready to dive back in to getting the big piece sorted. Got everything cut and drilled, was looking better than the first attempt. If you look closely however, you will likely notice a large crack above the fittings. That crack happened whilst I was dusting off the acrylic, couldn't believe it; another significant amount of time down the drain. On the plus side, it gave me some food for thought and I decided that I would make some tweaks for... Attempt #3 I now had a really good template for what I needed to do, and can report that everything went perfectly! Holes are spot on, edges straight and most importantly NO #### CRACKS. In retrospect, the cracks were of course my fault; but valuable lessons were learned. Next up was the acrylic pieces for the top and front fan areas: The top didn't cause me any real issues, just some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit snugly. Not convinced I'm 100% happy with it, so may have to revisit later. The front part though, that was interesting. I figured that a 200mm hole saw cutter would do the trick: What an absolute beast of a unit, considerably heavy as well! It definitely does the job, you just have to take it nice and slowly; ensuring not to force it too much. The problem however was that whilst the scrap piece of acrylic (the circle or 'donut hole' if you will) was 200mm in diameter, the piece I was using ended up being larger. Which is of course due to the width of the saw bit itself. This meant that once I trimmed the piece to fit in the front section, I was left with 3 separate pieces (very slight tolerances on the sides) that didn't actually line up well with the fans themselves. So I ended up having to cut the pieces up even more (into 6 pieces) and try to fit them together like some kind of jigsaw puzzle: In its current state, it clearly looks like crap. The curvature of the circles is off, edges don't line up, etc... I've got a few plans up my sleeve to achieve the end result that I want, just a case of some more experimentation. It has made me reconsider trying to achieve the raw acrylic finish on the front and top though, as I think it will look much cleaner if the panels are paint-matched to the rest of the case; with the seams all removed so it looks like 1 piece of plastic. So whilst it was a frustrating week for me (1 day of work, 2 days of sciatic pain afterwards, rinse/repeat), it has also been a great learning experience for me. I'm going to take the weekend off so I can relax and recuperate, but full steam ahead next week; time for some dremel work and get started on paint! Thanks for stopping by folks, take care and stay safe!

Looking good mate 👌

Well so this is a rerunn of my first mod batcave. so i whanted to make a batcave 2.0.

Looking good mate

Hi, Could you sent your request for us by email , please! Thank you irischen@thermaltake .com

Welcome back guys. After a long time due to this damned Corona virus we resume this work and the worklog. Step 1. Serious work begins. In these photos we will see all the mechanization through electromechanical actuators of the lateral machine guns in test pre-assembly. As you can see I built the whole system from 0 and as guides I used 16/12 tubes for the guide casing and 12/10 tubes as a piston. I also integrated gas pistons which, in addition to stabilizing the movement which is very fluid, without jerks and linear, also serve as a support for the machine guns, keeping everything very stable and in axis. The actuator that will open the top cover is also mounted on the test. The details and the explanation on this detail in the next post. Later we will also see the machine guns completely disassembled and see how they were built. Stay tuned. Worklog also on: https://www.nexthardware.com/forum/worklogs/92203-project-interceptor-ah-t600-tactical-assault-special-extreme-mod.html https://forums.bit-tech.net/index.php?threads/project-interceptor-ah-t600-tactical-assault-special-extreme-mod.373394/ Thermaltake Technology Inc Thermaltake-Italia ADATA XPG Global ASUS Republic of Gamers

thanks andy 👍

Checkout my update video Colin_vid_2.wmv

Just got my second delivery from scan with more parts. Now I can make some progress 😁

Hi, I ran into such a problem. When I run the Tt DPS G App program, the read heads start clicking on the hard drives when I turn off the program, everything becomes normal. Has anyone encountered such a problem? For visibility, I recorded a video.

G.Antonopoulos Respekt that Guy!

Yes you will need to connect the 2nd pwm cable. As far as I know each pwm cable controls the 3 corresponding ports next to them.

Thanks mate I'm on a fistful of painkillers you need a degree to spell too. Ended up losing my job because of it, can't sit at a desk or table for half an hour without being in agony, although the physio is helping. That in itself is pretty darn grueling though.

I feel ya mate. I only manage to do a little bit here and there myself when the pain allows (degenerated disc between S1/S2); been on Gabapentin and Co-codamol for my sciatica since last summer. But it still flares up fiercely after tinkering with stuff or sitting at my desk for too long. At least you’ve got the sense to put the tools down and rest, half the time I just push through and moan about it later!

An Open Letter To No Work Hi-diddly-hey modderinos! I just wanted to apologise for the lack of progress and updates, as since the last episode of Project I.S.A.C. I've not been very well. I have nerve damage from a botched hernia operation and subsequent ill-advised treatment, so I have to be a careful with any kind of physical activity. After the last break due to a stomach complaint, I pushed a bit too hard in an effort to try and catch up and ended up aggravating the nerves and have had to take a couple of weeks to let that die down and concentrate on my physio (all 3.5hours a day of it!). Even though I've been feeling a lot better and doing some stuff around the house, just yesterday I was in a lot of pain after 10-15mins of washing up. It's immensely frustrating. I'm not after any sympathy, so put the violins away, just a little understanding that whilst I'll do my best to bring you an update and some meaningful progress each week, there may be times when I have to down Dremel and look after myself. There should be a little update video being pushed out by Thermaltake tomorrow, be sure to keep an eye out for that. For now I'll begetting on with a few little bits and pieces of 'lighter' work, so stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.

George Antonopoulos !! Dr.loop as we call him is one of the best for me. Great taste , great curves , very helpful with nice and fast solutions if needed. And he is also self taught !!!

George Antonopoulos Only!

Already had a convo with ThermalMike about it. They are aware.

Hey buddy. I made it in here. Voting on your rig. As soon as I find the page. LOL

good luck Guys!

good luck bro

I am also working on a project that is Firewater project 1.0, This Project Standard and Specification defines point conditions for water supply for fire-fighting missions. All officials concerned must work collectively to implement and support these smallest water quantities and discussions with municipality fire stations would cover not only the water possible from the hydrants but also serve to ensure the constant and sufficient flow of water for fire-fighting.

This is actually amazing.

Thanks for entering guys, awesome mods! Give us a few days and we will start round 2

Known bug with the current version. I am sure they are working on a fix. The current temp fix is to go back to 1.3.3 https://file.thermaltake.com/file/software/TTRGBPlus_Setup_133_x64.zip

It's Monday morning and once again the weather is absolutely glorious! I know I sound like the boy that cried wolf, but the additional components from Thermaltake and Scan UK should be with me very soon. So in preparation for that, I decided over the weekend to get some other things in order first. First on the agenda was the AMD Radeon™ RX 5700 graphics card from Asus, which comes with the reference blower cooler and no backplate. Disassembly was a fairly straightforward affair, with only minimal residue left over by some of the thermal pads. As you can see, the Pacific V-RX 5700 waterblock from Thermaltake will be getting installed onto the card, but before that we have some minor detail work to be done first. Now each to their own and all that, but one thing that drives me crazy is when I see someone slap a beautiful block on a graphics card, but do nothing with the stock bracket: The unpainted bare metal sticks out like a sort thumb, unless of course that is the look you are going for. For Project SparklePony however, something had to be done about this eyesore. Whilst you can of course purchase aftermarket single-slot brackets, which are usually painted or powder-coated, I am a cheapskate; so giving it a good paint was the 'thrifty' option 😉 A few coats of primer followed by some gloss black and clear lacquer... Ahh, much better. Now on to the next pet-peeve of mine. So many graphic cards have that irritating burnt orange/rust edge on them, in your average build it isn't the end of the world; but when you are trying to make a build as aesthetically pleasing as possible, something has to be done. Nothing that a Sharpie can't fix of course 😀 The Sharpie trick is an ancient technique that has been passed down throughout the generations, works really well for any random silver screws you have as well as those silly little coloured wires on your front panel connectors/audio header. Once that was all prepped, it was time to put the block on. If weight is a sign of quality, then this thing is top-notch. Feels really solid and installation was very straightforward. I look forward to finding out how all the temps are with it, especially since the card has been flashed and will of course be overclocked. The backplate that comes with the block is also a really solid piece of kit, whilst it won't be on show much due to mounting the card vertically; it still serves the important function of giving the assembly some rigidity. With that all sorted, next up was ditching the stock cooler that came with the AMD Ryzen 7 3700X and installing the waterblock. I was really impressed with the backplate that comes with the Thermaltake Pacific W4 Plus RGB CPU block. Really sturdy but also a very nice premium finish. And of course the underside of the block itself has that gentle reminder, folk forget to take that off much more often than you would expect! I wasn't sure how I would feel about the look of a circular block, PCs are usually full of right angles. But actually I quite like the look of it. With that installed it was then time to get the graphics card in as well, just to get an idea of how/where everything is going to align. From this angle below, you can see that the minor tweaks of painting the bracket and busting out the Sharpie has accomplished exactly what I wanted it to. If there was a rusty edge around the graphics card, your eye would be naturally drawn to it; whereas now you'd really have to go looking for it. The devil is in the details after all. Once the rest of the LCS components from Thermaltake arrive, I'll be installing it all so I can see exactly what I need to do in regards to bends as well as my acrylic work. Then once I'm happy with what all needs to be done, everything will be removed so I can work on the case. A combination of more cutting, grinding, and painting are on the menu; as well as a few other things. In the meantime, stay home and stay safe folks!

known bug lets hope they fix it soon if you need 1.3.3 you can find it here https://file.thermaltake.com/file/software/TTRGBPlus_Setup_133_x64.zip

HSame issue, for about a month or two now, i saw it poped once but not for long then went off again trying to fix it now

I just received my Core X71 and I had been planning out the custom liquid cooling loop I'm going to use mainly by looking at the exploded diagram and I had assumed based on the diagram that it came with two of the side mount fan and radiator mounts but apparently it only comes with one. I was planning on two radiators; one on both sides but to do that I'd need to purchase a 2nd side mount bracket. I've looked on the website and don't see any place where you can buy spare parts for this chassis like the side mount fan & radiator bracket. Any ideas how or where to buy one from?

I asked me the same, but I also opened another topic for another question, here:

Thank you!

Little overdue for a weekly update here, because reasons! First and foremost, a huge thanks to everyone that is checking in on my progress (albeit very little so far) here on the forums; as well as those of you reaching out to me on other platforms. Hopefully when the work really begins, you will be rewarded with frequent posts full of pictures and commentary. ####, even if (when) things go wrong, I'll make sure to post my experiences. Just last week I submitted my disseration, so fairly glad that is behind me. As fate would have it, Project SparklePony became a vital asset for it; as I ran all of my experiments on the system. I don't want to bore you all too much, the TLDR: a virtual network with a web-server/legitimate traffic generator/malicious traffic generator, comparing the performance of open source IDSs (Intrusion Detection Systems). The extra oompth of the 3700X meant that each of my virtual machines could have more processing power than the 2600 in my current build, whilst the Firecuda 520 provided much higher performance than the drives that I have currently also. For multiple VMs this makes quite the difference, as each of their 'virtual' hard drives were all on it. So when multiple VMs need to read/write at once, that extra speed really impacts the performance of each VM. For comparison, here are a few CrystalDiskMark results so you can see the difference. First up is a 2TB Samsung 860 QVO that is my storage drive in my rig, by no means a fast drive: Next is the Samsung 960 EVO that is my OS/APP drive in my rig, we all know that it is a solid performer: The Firecuda 520 in SparklePony? Holy ####: Whilst everyone will tell you that it makes no difference in gaming, aside from initial/subsequent load times; it really depends on the game. An environment like The Division 2 for example (which continually loads in data from your drive) does experience a benefit, or at least it feels like it does. Regardless, whilst these faster speeds may not make a big difference for gaming; it certainly made a huge difference for my studies. Ok, but what about the modding already? Right, so the majority of my raw materials are here, I will have to clear my workspace up and lay them all out for photos in the near future. For components however, due to the current 'world situation' those are slightly delayed 😢 I have however slightly began on an area that does not require the other stuff to come in: Originally I was just going to cut out at a square (before actually getting my hands on the View 51), but after seeing the clearance between the PSU and the back panel: I just did not feel comfortable potentially restricting the airflow there. Whilst I know a lot of mods out there don't really care about actual functionality, this setup is going to be used all the time: gaming, art, potentially college (no pressure on her at all 😉), etc. So I decided to leave that little section of grill down there and I'll trim the included magnetic dust filter to fit there. One thing I did notice of course was the upside-down logo on the PSU (due to the orientation of the View 51): That was a whole 2 second job, but is now rectified. That's it, that is all I managed to get around to doing I'm afraid. I just had a final exam this week, I have one more the week after next; as well as an essay to complete as well. Once those last 2 tasks are out of the way, then I can really get my teeth into it. Hopefully the other goodies will be here by then as well! In the meantime, thanks once again for stopping by. Stay home, stay safe!

Chk inbox!

I have the same issue with the TUF Gaming 570-Plus (WiFI). I've been finding a lot of post regarding it but no solutions.

I have one of these cases. They look nice, and are quite light. I got one with a 650 W power supply pre-installed, which along with the pre-installed fans makes for a good deal. A couple of things you should know before buying one: - the FAN controller board for the front panel fans does not do PWM speed control. The fans just run at top speed. The connection to the Motherboard just allows control of the RGB, not the speed. I'm thinking of replacing the fans and controller board with one that has PWM connection to the motherboard. - the blue power light is VERY bright. I put some electrical tape over it, and it is still quite bright. - the manual is terrible. It lacks information about the fan controller board (e.g. it says nothing about hooking up the power to it, has no listing of compatible fans, has no description of how to remove the front panel if you want to replace the front fans). The diagram showing the hard drive mounting is cryptic, a simple illustration of how a drive is fastened to the plates would be helpful.

Finally, I can upgrade software to version 1.10.0 but have to switch the usb port to make it work. Right now, it works without any problems. :-)