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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Flashify For PC Flashify is not officially available for Windows or the Mac. Flashify apk can be directly downloaded into your Android smartphone. But using an Android emulator we can run it on a PC. So if you want to download flahsify for pc you have to use a third party app emulator such as NOX or blue stack. Basic Purpose: Use to flash boot image, zip files, and recovery image it rooted Androids. Also used to wipe cache, data, and dalvik with TWRP installation. This application holds a track of flashing strategy to access quickly flash the same device once again. How To Install Flashify for PC Using Nox Android Emulator Step 1: Download NOX into your player into your Windows or the Mac PC. Step 2: Once you download the tool install it as a normal app installation. Follow the onscreen instructions for the app installation. Step 3: Once the tool is successfully installed open the application. Step 4: Navigate to the homepage and then click on the folder available as Google. Step 5: Then select on the Play store icon. Step 6: A window will pop up asking to log into the Google accounts. Already you have a google account select the existing option and if you don't have one select new. Step 7: Follo the onscreen details and enter your google accounts and active the Google play store. Step 8: Once you enter the Google play store search for Flashify (for rooted devices). Step 9: Just click on the installation button. A popup will appear and click on the accept button. Once the installation is done, you can use the application. Flashify Version 1.9.2 The available latest version of the application. Released since 2015 December. Two versions are available as the Flashify free and the flashify premium version. The difference between the two formats is that free version limits for several flesh times per day and the premium version offer unlimited flashes. Flashify is designed for rooted Androids. if you own Android 4.0 or Above smart device, you are eligible to use. As mentioned earlier PK version available for the direct download into your mobile. Flashify 1.9.2 Changelog Issue reported regarding Android Marshmallow has been successfully addressed and now able to use backup feature. Downloadable Stock recovery and kernels have been added for nexus 6P and 5X devices. Requirements Minimum of 1 GB RAM ( Random Access memory requires as well as about 15 MB disk space is required.
  2. 1 point
    No, I am using the EZDYI one from Amazon for now. Working great!
  3. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Final Build Pics This build is DONE!! That doesn't mean I won't make any changes, as I am a constantly tinkering with things, but the core system is ready to go. I still need to moidfy a few things at my desk and route cables before I move it over, but still calling the project done at this point. Not really any reason to describe each picture, so just going to post a bunch of them from different angles. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
  4. 1 point
    Yep - just came here to report that mine is working as well! Had a couple minor issues with getting the bend radius correct. I also had the issue with the screw hole lining up. I wish I had checked here first! I ended up draining my loop - which at first I was thinking I could avoid - and in the process, despite trying to be super careful with lots of paper towels, etc, I ended up dripping red coolant on my nice new desk and now it's pretty much ruined. Luckily my large steele series mousepad covers it up. It got it working, went to move the case back and it acted up again for a few - so maybe in a few months I'll use your mounting method - as I am experiencing a slight bit of droop - but, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right! I also got a response from Mike at Thermaltake, he is sending me a new one - I may try it out soon when I get another GPU. If it still doesn't work, I know which one to purchase. I'm definitely glad it worked, as I was starting to fear I'd have to plug it straight into the motherboard - making the purpose of this case null and void, and I'd have to re-do the tubing bends. I'll check back later and re-read your post about cables and such! Great work again man! making already want to plan out some updates for the future (like the wrapping)
  5. 1 point
    I am happy to report that the PCIe riser cable I purchased works perfectly! No more boot errors, benchmarks work, and I can even OC without issues. Here is the Amazon link if anyone with the Core P5 Case would like to give it a go. It seems a lot higher quality than the one provided by Thermaltake, and is shielded well. The only problem is that one of the screw holes doesn't line up exactly with the P5 case mount. I ended up using the screw on the side with the PCIe latch, and a zip tie on the other. Not ideal, but it works, and doesn't wiggle. One thing I made sure to do this time is not have any drastic bends, and to not bend anything near the connectors. Used a can of Pledge Spray as my guide for nice rounded bends. Now that I am back to having a 100% working system, I can work on getting this build finished up! Time for some leak testing.
  6. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Sleeving My last build incorporated sleeving from MDPC (MurderMods), and it turned out really good. I still have a lot of sleeving left over from that project, but decided to try something different for this build. I have heard a lot of things, both good and bad, about Paracord sleeving, so I decided to do a sample to see if it would work for this build. As I mentioned before, I like MDPC sleeving, but I find it a bit stiff to work with at times. So I purchased a few hundred feet of coreless paracord, which cost less than $25, and got started sleeving. In addition to the custom sleeving, I typically make my own power cables for each build. I find by doing this I am able to limit all the extra cable length taking up room in the case, and it allows for better looking cable routing. Here is a pic of the primary tools used for the job. Paracord (Black) Paracord (Royal Blue) Paracord (Slate Grey) Lutro Paracord Sleeving tool (makes job snag free) 100ft 18AWG Wire PSU Power Connector Pins (lots) MDPC Crimping Tool MDPC Pin Extractor Molex PSU Connector Heads (Various) Precision Titanium Snips Hobby Knife Bic Lighter After doing a few trail runs and deciding that I really like using Paracord, I set to work making my cables. In addition to looking great, and being very flexible, I like that with Paracord I can sleeve the cables without having to use heatshrink. I personally think it looks cleaner, and it cuts down the time required to get the job done. For most of the build I am using “Wire Wraps†that are 3D printed by Ensourced. I find they are really easy to work with, and look great once installed. They do a good job of keeping the sleeved cables tidy, especially when doing bends. Here you can see a comparison of my new paracord sleeved ATX connector vs my older one using MDPC sleeving. So pretty! Here we have another comparison of the two types of sleeving. Really impressed with the look and feel of the paracord. Also liking the combination of the 3 colors, and how well it goes with the rest of the build. The cable shown below is one I had to create later on in the process after I was having boot issues caused by me not adding a power connector to my USB 3.1 expansion card. You can see the cable plugged in the bottom part of this picture as well. Glad I got that one figured out! Here we have the final stage of the custom cables and sleeving in all it’s glory. Really liking how the colors look, and how clean the paracord sleeving turned out. Cable management in the back is good, but could be better. May work at securing everything down a bit more once I verify that everything is working the way it should. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
  7. 1 point
    Project Open Core: Hardline Tubing For this build, I decided to go with Monsoon Hardline PETG Tubing 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD. I initially had purchased PrimoChill PETG Tubing, but decided that the diameter was too thin and liked the look of â…†OD better. This is my first time “tube bending†so I purchased a lot of it since I knew that I had to account for the varoius screw ups that would occur. Luckily it is not very expensive. Since it was my first time working with hardline tubing, I had to acquire a few tools to make sure my bends look good. I already had a few things, like the rotary pipe cutters and a heat gun, but also picked up some Monsoon Mandrels to help form bends, a measuring kit, and a tube bending rig made by Barrow which came in really handy. I have noticed that a lot of people cutting tubing use a hacksaw, but I personally thing the rotary pipe cutter is a much better tool. Not only does is make very straight cuts, but it leaves no mess, and gives the tubing a nice beveled edge as can seen in the picture above, and ensures I don’t damage the o-rings when sliding them on for the fittings. The Barrows bending rig was very useful when doing more complex / multi angle bends, and assured not only my angles were dead on, but that the tubing was straight throughout the level plane I was working with. It also allowed me to keep things stable when doing larger 180 bends than what the Monsoon mandrel kit supported. Used a can of compressed air as a form for one of the bends, and it come out really nice. For the most part, my bends held true to my original 3D render which I was glad to see. One place where I had to simplify a bit is where the Motherboard outlet connected to the GPU block. I was initially going to go with a nice multi-bend solution, but realized after installing the fittings that my plan wouldn’t work. There wasn’t enough clearance between the fitting and the motherboard housing to do a 90 degree bend from that location. So I used my measuring kit to form a more simple “L†bend directly to the GPU block. Not as fancy, but the end result still looks great. Towards the end of the process, I was getting really good and quick at making quality bends. I may change things around at some point, but for now, I am happy with the end result. Time to move on to finishing up making some power cables and getting them sleeved. For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9 . .
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