Jump to content
  • Forum Statistics

    6.7k
    Total Topics
    49k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    89,810
    Total Members
    16,800
    Most Online
    wisdomgaming
    Newest Member
    wisdomgaming
    Joined

xoma262

Members
  • Posts

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by xoma262

  1. 3 minutes ago, Qlemens said:

    Just to be clear, I do not need to use separate power feed when using 4 fans with one controller?

    My MOBO is Gigabyte GA-Z170-Gaming-K3-rev-10, I connected the controller to SysFan module.

    I am using Chieftec CFT-750-CS as PSU.

    Since I have another controller I will test it later and let you know.

    It is more like case by case situation with 4 fans and sep. feed. 

    Also check your bios. I know gigabyte defaults fans to 0.5 rpm. It might affect.

  2. 1 hour ago, Qlemens said:

    Hello

    I used this instruction to connect 4 RGB fans to one hub but there is one problem - all colours except from white work correctly but white colour flashes. Because of this the 256 mode also flashes and restarts. I was thinking (this is really a wild guess) that the reason for this could be power shortage (white uses the most power because all lights are used to mix all three colours?). I also noticed that the two fans which share the connector rotate slower than the other two fans.

    Does anyone has this problem as well? Any idea what might be the cause?

    Even though white color draws the most power (255,255,255), it unlikely to cause any power shortage.

    Unless (1) you did not use separate power feed directly from the PSU, (2) your motherboard has some issues with power delivery through PWM, (3) your PSU has some issues with 12V rail (unlikely but can happen), or (4) you just have a faulty controller.

    On some systems I observed loss of RPM without using separate feed, so ... What's your setup? 

     

     

  3. I guess I might just cut the wires.

    However it's not fun, because the one built into the door is really hard to get to.

    I don't understand why they would not think about this.

     

    BTW there's a led color button on the top, which includes "off" mode, but always after every boot goes back to on-blue.

    remove door fan first, hah.

     

    If it has OFF mode, then there might be a workaround, I just not familiar with this case and fan controller. 

  4. Wouldn't it be awesome if that was the case.

    This is how the leds connect to the fans:

    http://imgur.com/k7ClvTi

    I kind of don't want to break 16 wires per fan..

    Ahh, okay. 

     

    There is a "hard" way of doing this: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=154804

     

    Or just to cut off ground on each led, lol.  :D

     

    OR, just buy another fans without LED. 

    TT have pretty decent fans, as well as other manufacturers. 

  5. Ok, gotcha. 

     

    You have 3 pin connector. Red - +5V\12V, Black - Ground (GND)  and Yellow -  Tachometric Signal to control RPM. 

     

    There is no way to disconnect LED unless there is a switch for that. 

    If I were you, I would find a place, where all LEDs from one fan goes into 1 wire and then into main red\black wire and cut it off. 

     

    So, generally the easiest method to cut off LED power supply from main wire, later if you would like to turn it on - just connect back and isolate with electric tape. 

  6. Thanks Xoma.  I'm familiar with the difference between a 3 and 4-pin socket.  I originally had the controllers hooked up to 2 chassis pwm connectors on the m/b.  That didn't work, so i figured they weren't getting enough power from the m/b.

     

    I used a phobya (sp?) adapter to connect via a molex for power and still connect to the chassis fan socket on the m/b.  That didn't work either.  I tried disconnecting from the m/b so that only 1 fan and connector were being directly powered from the molex.  This takes the m/b out of the equation altogether and still nothing happened.  I'm thinking it's an issue with the controllers, but i find it hard to believe both are bad.

    Exactly. Honestly I do not believe that 2 controllers can have defects at the same time.  :D

     

    If you obtained power from Molex --> PSU  and still see this issue, that's more likely your motherboard behave not in the right way.

     

    Try to connect to CPU fan and see how it would work. 

    That's why I don't like ASRock, they always messing up with everything. 

  7. I've tried regular, performance and full speed in UEFI, but nothing changed.  The fan speed did not change, only when i unplugged and re-plugged back in.  The bios read the fan speeds fine, but couldn't control them.  The buttons on the fan controllers did nothing as well.  

     

    Am I missing something?  Should i be trying to tamper with the fan voltage?  I thought I would be able to control them like I do with the CPU fan via the speed settings.

    You have to connect to 4-pin case fan socket. 

     

    It looks like this: 

     

    connector_mb_4pin_header.png

     

     

    Difference is very simple. 

    First of all PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation

    It is required to control fans.

    3-pin - same thing except you cannot control fans because it doesn't have PW module. 

     

     

    Check everything and supply with pictures of how you connected everything. 

    Even what you set up in UEFI. In that way it would be much clear for everyone to understand your problem. 

  8. I've got 6 x 140 Riing fans connected through 2 supplied controllers.  The buttons on the controllers are unresponsive.  They all power on blue.

     

    I had them connected directly through the 2 controllers to 2 chassis fans on the m/b, but thought they might not be getting enough power.  So i've paired them together and connected them using an adapter (a molex and one of the m/b chassis fan connectors).  Still nothing.

     

    I have noticed that the controller lights will switch between low and high (red and blue) only when i unplug and plug the units back in.  I double checked in the bios (i have an ASRock Z170 extreme7+) and they don't respond through changing the fan speeds in there.  However, when i do manually (unplug and re-plug) change them from low to high, the fan speeds appear to be reading correctly in the bios.

     

    I doubt both controllers are bad, but reading online they seem to be plug and play.  What could I possibly be missing?

    You should connect to 4-pin PWM MB port AND setup fan power in UEFI to max settings. 

  9. Good Time of the day everyone!

     

    I would like to share my own experience of connecting Riing RGB fans together in 1 controller.

    This guide will divide in two parts: One of them is how to connect 4 fans in 1 controller, using only your hands and pin extractor (or any thin tools like needle). Second part will be about connecting up to 6 fans using same tools as in first case plus 4-pin Molex cable and electric tape (or shrinking tube or soldering iron + tape).

     

    A little Preface:

     

    Why I decided to divide in two parts? The answer is very simple. MB in most cases provides 12V @1Amp. Usually it will run up to 3 fans at max speed without any drawback (loosing RPM). However in some cases you can connect 4-th and you won't notice any difference. 

     

     

    Firstly, (too obvious) power off your PC. (Don't forget that you are doing at your own risk, this is not official Thermaltake guide)

     

    We need tool to extract pins from the head. You can use basically anything thin enough to fit a little hole on top of the head.

    I used this tool: 

     

    post-104336-0-50097300-1469018430_thumb.jpg

     

    The idea is very simple, we need to extract pins from one head and insert them into another head, so there will be two fans goes into 1 4-pin head. There is enough room to fit 2 wires in 1 head slot.

     

    post-104336-0-01734900-1469018410_thumb.jpg

     

    See little holes? Press on them and pull wires. Very simple.

     

    post-104336-0-43088900-1469018418_thumb.jpg

     

    post-104336-0-40215200-1469018439_thumb.jpg

     

    Do you see that there is enough space in the socket? We need to insert each extracted wire into proper slot. It would go snug and fit secure. 

     

    post-104336-0-02900900-1469018448_thumb.jpg

     

    post-104336-0-14231000-1469018457_thumb.jpg

     

     

    At the end we will get this: 

     

    post-104336-0-39148200-1469018522_thumb.jpg

     

     

    Done! Just plug it back to controller and you are good to go!  :D

     

    Video to demonstrate: 

     

    https://youtu.be/jn-x7rH3Pwg

     

    Second part! 

     

    Connecting up to 6 fans. 

     

    We have to follow same process as before, BUT the big difference is that we need 4-pin molex cable. 

     

    How it works: 4-pin PWM MB port has 4 pins (oh man, thanks Cap. Obvious!) 

     

    You can see pinout below: 

     

    post-104336-0-54328600-1469020564.png

     

    We will utilize power from Molex cable (it's peripheral cable goes directly in PSU) and PWM signal from Motherboard. 

     

    From the power cable, which goes with fans, you need to extract only two pins +12V and GND .Other 2 leave in the head.

     

    Extracted pins you need to connect to molex +12V and GND correspondingly.

     

    Here is pinout: 

     

    post-104336-0-93389200-1469020565.jpg

     

    Just in case: MOLEX has 2 grounds and it doesn't matter which to connect. 

     

     

    What we'll get at the end: 

     

    post-104336-0-02323200-1469018363_thumb.jpg

     

    post-104336-0-35362900-1469018374_thumb.jpg

     

    post-104336-0-18970600-1469018387_thumb.jpg

     

    post-104336-0-68855300-1469018402_thumb.jpg

     

    Just plug PWM to 4-pin MB fan port and Molex ... to molex, lol. 

     

    No video yet, but it works :P

    If you'll have questions, don't hesitate to ask. Maybe I just forgot to mention something... 

     

    Cheers!

  10. I know I have been waiting for these fans to drop for almost 8 weeks. I check this community forum page, Tt premium website, and the thermaltake USA site about 5-8 times a day everyday since the first week of June, and nothing.. I just ordered the New CORSAIR ML120 4 white and 3 blue to see which i like better. I hope these the new RIING RBG DIGITAL PREMIUM drop before my fans get here on Monday and I open, install and/or order more.. I have 1 480 RAD, 3 360 RADs, rear case fan, and 3 other spots I may put 2 or even the 3 fans there also..

    So THERMALTAKE YOU may have a newly acquired customer with a potentially large order of 6 or 7 - 3 pack RIING Case Fans @ $69.99 a $500 or @ $89.99 $650 order depending on MSRP

    Any longer and Corsair will end up with my business with their New ML120s which 7 have been ordered but will be shipped back unopened. IF YOU GET YOUR FANS up on your site very soon they will remain unopened.i7 6950x,

    You are crazy dude. 

  11. What is everyone's opinion regarding the riing fans? Can they be used as case fans? I think they look really nice and clean with the led ring compared to the led lighted fans that emit light on all four corners.

     

    However, I read that these fans are geared more towards radiator cooler applications as opposed to airflow case fans. Is this accurate or will there be a minimal loss in airflow when using these riing fans?

     

    Are these 3-pin or 4-pin fans and will they work with PWM?

    They are really good! 

  12. The Riing fans are geared towards static pressure and radiators but are perfectly fine as case fans too.

    The single-colour Riing fans have a 3pin connector (and a low noise cable). The Riing RGB fans have a 4pin connector and support PWM.

    In a few weeks, we will release the Riing RGB TT Premium edition, which is a software-controlled Riing RGB fan with fan blades that are optimized for air flow, however. They will perform better as case fans that the Riing fans that are currently available.

    NOooooooooooo.

    I just bought 2 months ago Riing RGBs ...  :wacko:  :wacko:  :wacko:

  13. Hey, this build is for a good friend of mine. The motherboard, GPU, CPU, etc. are existing parts from his old PC. 

     

    At moment I can´t say something about this. I will OC the hardware after finishing the PC. It isn´t only for aesthetics, I have a "old" 780Gtx, with a Aquacomputer water cooler. If I would try to run it with air the mosfets will be burned after less then 5 minutes.. 

     

    Let me guess.... Reference 780GTX? This is a very bad example, since they had defect, which causes MOSFET to explode. 

    They had a recall on almost all reference 780GTX and you had to do and exchange it. So this is not to due air cooling

  14. By the way, what's the point of having GPUs in liquid cooling loop? 

    I see no performance upgrade between water and air cooling. 

     

    I have 2 MSI Limited 980Ti (golden dragon) and OC'ed to 1503 - 1970 Mhz  in Core/Memory clock and don't have any issues with heating or  throttling ... 

     

    Maybe just aesthetics? Then it would make sense :rolleyes:  

×
×
  • Create New...