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Everything posted by vulcan78

  1. You chose a great case! (one of if not the best IMHO, due to gaps in chassis which allow for breathability). I recommend going with the biggest radiators right from the start, I regret getting a slim 420 in the ceiling and just the 38mm 360 in the front when I originally did my loop. I currently have and can safely recommend: EK CE 420 (ceiling) EK XE 360 (front) Additionally, and this is subjective, but if you can swing it I HIGHLY recommend Barrow's Distribution plate in conjunction with 2x D5 pumps in serial (2x the head pressure and redundancy, D5 at 100% RPM sounds like DDC @ 50% RPM). I also recommend orienting the rad fans as exhaust, rear 140mm fan as intake, and adding 2x 90mm fans at bottom of chassis as intake as well. I have an update coming to my channel including a modification (removal of rear 140mm fan grill) and putting the PC on some 3x6 wooden blocks to get it off the carpet and aid with airflow and improve the aesthetics: This is how it looked originally with soft tubing and the single D5 with smaller radiators and no distro plate: Here's the distro plate from Ali Express, I went with 14/10 acrylic because, compared to PETG, acrylic resists deformation at temperature better (even though my water temps don't exceed 35C) and are much more UV resistant. With PETG, if water temp gets up to 50-55C there is the risk of a tube becoming dislodged from a fitting because the tubing is literally starting to melt / deform. This problem is actually much more widespread than you think. The only benefit of PETG over Acrylic is that, it's more shatter resistant? I mean that's great if you swing hammers around in your case? I don't swing hammers around in my case, I will take the superior clarity, UV resistance, easier cutting and chamfering, and peace of mind that a tube will never dislodge due to water temperature. In regards to UV resistance, the original EK Duraclear turned lime green after about 4-5 months of mostly indirect sunlight and PETG isn't much better in this regard, it may just take twice as long. I know Acrylic is much better because the Acrylic pump-res seen in the video above suffered zero UV discoloration. Acrylic is also clearer and easier to cut. I recommend going hard tubing right from the start and I recommend Acrylic if the room where the PC is has any sunlight. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906002848.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.63094c4dPeViPj Let me know if you have any more questions!
  2. A few days ago I asked everyone here if turning the fans from exhaust to intake would work better and everyone uniformly responded with "Intake!" https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...l#post28419716 Well, I did my own testing and found that both rads as intake is 4C hotter GPU core, 5C hotter on the GDDR6 and 6C hotter on VRM / MOSFET within only 20 minutes (stability not reached). I recorded the testing. YouTube (Short URL) Testing methodology: I performed two 20 minute runs back to back starting with 25C on the GPU and 66-67F ambient (21C and fan speed @ 40% RPM, unchanged, for both runs, I induce full load on the GPU (in this case 95%, not sure if it's a CPU bottleneck or RTX but this game doesn't go up to 99% with 8700k @ 5.0 GHz) and I run around the Caspian Sea in Metro Exodus all settings maxed (RT: High) @ 3440x1440. Temps start out good, around 40C but slowly ramp up over time. I alt+tab around the 10 minute mark both runs and pull up Hwinfo64 (still recording) to check the temps on what's not shown in RTSS (memory, hard-drives, Sabrent Rocket 2TB M.2 PCI-E that is mounted directly to them motherboard sitting below CPU socket, above GPU). The only thing that changes between the runs is that on the 2nd run I revert all of the fans (6 on the PE 360, 3 on the SE 420) to push-pull OUT of the case / exhaust and the rear 140mm fan reverted to intake. 2nd session has the same ambient and same starting temp on GPU. Data: All rad fans as intake, rear 140mm fan as exhaust 10 min mark: Sabrent Rocket 2TB: 52-55C 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z Royal Memory: 51 and 52C CPU VRM MOS: 43C GPU: 46C 20 min mark: Above mostly unchanged but now GPU core is 49C, one of the banks of memory is at 52C and GPU VRM / MOSFET is at 49C! All rad fans as exhaust, rear 140mm fan as intake 10 min mark: Sabrent Rocket 2TB: 30C! 2x16 G.Skill Trident Z Royal Memory: 35 and 41C! CPU VRM MOS: 36C GPU: 43C 20 min mark: Above mostly unchanged, GPU is now 46C on core, 47 on that same bank of MEM1 that was 52C, and 43C on GPU VRM MOSFET! Other observations, back-plate gets really hot without that rear 140mm fan as intake! That combined with the fact that hot air is blowing directly over distribution plate all of the 14/10 acrylic tubing, motherboard, GPU back-plate etc. All of that heats up with the radiator heat, it's basic common sense (and DDC pump, no-one even bothered to look at my system before immediately suggesting all rad fans as intake, if they saw that the DDC mounted to the distro plate was literally 1.5 inches in front of PE 360 that would otherwise be pulling air across it and out of the case as exhaust would no be dumping heat directly onto it would they still recommend all rad fans as intake considering DDC is air-cooled. Unexepected pump failure in what 1-2 years with that heat? When your pump goes and takes your $1200 GPU out with it, that's always fun. Luckily I did my own testing and found that rads as intake is definitely not better than exhaust despite what conventional wisdom dictates AND I'm replacing single DDC with 2x D5 in serial, just waiting on my larger rads to come in) If you don't want to watch me run around the Caspian Sea in Metro Exodus I alt+tab out in the all fans as intake testing session at the 20 min mark in the video and I also go over the data at the end and before starting second testing session with fans reverted to intake @ 36 min mark and you can see the ending temps @ the end of the second 20 minute run around 1:02:30 mark. Needless to say I'm glad I just didn't listen to all of the sage advice here and run my rads as intake! I've been doing this for a while and I've always questioned why you would want to run your radiators as intake, pumping all of that HOT air into your case and over your components (and hard tubing + liquid), the very same components youre trying to cool with said radiators. I understand the concept, the effectiveness of a radiator depends on the temp of the air passing through it, but you can provide ample air to said radiators from inside the case. It may be a few degrees celsius warmer, but at least in a View 71 (and Air 540) with 40% fan RPM it's definitely better than pumping all of that hot air into your case. I've always run my rads as exhaust and until today I've never done back to back testing like this to test my hypothesis, to me it's just common sense. Well now I know for a FACT that multiple radiators are much better exhausting that heat out of a case, at least if it's a View 71 and youre only running the fans at 40% RPM (inaudible, I don't like noise, hence why I'm replacing the DDC on the distro plate with 2x D5 which I will run at 70% RPM). As I state in the video, maybe rads as intake is better if you run your rad fans at 70-100% RPM and the case doesn't breathe as well as Thermaltake View 71. I don't mean to offend anyone with my findings nor the way that I present them here, each case is different, I'm sure many of you have done your own testing and may have found that the opposite is true. My question is, did you actually look at the temps of your memory and your mobo mounted M.2 PCI-E drives? +10-15C on the memory and +20C on the M.2 PCI-E boot drive is MASSIVE! Anyhow, thanks for reading and watching, hopefully this experience and data will help others to buck conventional wisdom and do their own research when it comes to radiator fan orientation. System in question: YouTube (Short URL) https://imgur.com/a/i7zCusE
  3. Hi all, hoping I can get some help wit this. I recently ordered a Distro Block (Barrow, Thermaltake View 71) and just realized it's not engineered correctly. yeah so tired of soft tubing and having had my pump running for about half of it's 5 year life span (50k MTBF, D5 140) I justified upgrading to a distribution plate to replace the pump, res, and make laying out hard-line easier and cleaner looking. In my excitement, even though I viewed the distribution plate enough, somehow I managed to assume that flow was going in the other direction, i.e. up and to the CPU block, then to the top mounted rad, then to the GPU, then side mounted rad, then to reservoir. If you look at this image you can kind of see follow my misperception. Just pretend that the flow direction isn't with gravity down into the pump but the other way, flowing into the port at the top-left of the large cavity and then to the top of the CPU. Yeah no, correct me if I'm mistaken but the flow direction is actually directly from the CPU into the distribution block and down into the pump, THEN into the radiator, then the GPU, then the top rad, then back down into the CPU. http://www.barrowint.com/plus/view.php?aid=920 http://www-x-barrowint-x-com.img.abc188.com/ueditor/php/upload/image/20191014/1571044282840453.jpg So this is actually a huge no no, you don't want hot water going directly into a passively cooled pump (the pump that is coming with this board from Ali Express doesn't even have a heat-sink). The distro plate is plastic, plastic isn't a good conductor of heat, so it's basically going to very warm as the CPU in question is 8700k @ 170W with a monoblock and all of the attendant heat from the VRM. Unless I'm mistaken here, I'm going to try to cancel this order. Very sad, I don't know how this passed engineering mock up.
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