Jump to content
  • Forum Statistics

    6,337
    Total Topics
    39,616
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    59,618
    Total Members
    16,800
    Most Online
    JTi4i
    Newest Member
    JTi4i
    Joined

The_Crapman

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

The_Crapman last won the day on May 23

The_Crapman had the most liked content!

About The_Crapman

  • Rank
    Just Getting Started
  • Birthday October 7

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham, UK
  • Interests
    I love food, being lazy and copper. ALL THE COPPER!

Recent Profile Visitors

89 profile views
  1. Gooood Moooorning Modding faaaaaaans! So with the motherboard heatsinks nicely brightened I couldn't just stick that black plastic shroud back over them. Luckily I have some 2mm aluminium laying about that I've had forever and this will make an ideal replacement. I started by tracing round the the original cover, but because it has mounting struts and other stuff underneath, this was better done turned upside down to get it flush(er) against the paper, which is why the drawing is backwards. Then I took measurements for the rest of the board so that I could expand it out a bit and cover up more of the motherboard. This is the area I want to cover, colour coding showing the original and then different additional bit that I might want to add. I did the drawing on card so that it would stay relatively flat once cut out and got it lined up with the mounting point and punched them through. Once on the board it didn't look right having a lot of square corners given the boards original angular designs, so I marked out bits I'd want tweaking with rough angles from the heatsinks. Back off the board I used the cover to get the proper angles and see about different levels of cropping. Couple of snips later and I think we have a winner! Now this was a fairly rough drawing so I then traced round this template in pencil and took to the drawing board to get all the lines true. Again I used the original to get the angled lines in, it was an awkward angle and I don't have anything like a sliding bevel. I could still find ones that were out like the one I circled in orange. With a couple of lines done this way I then turned the paper so the the angle was horizontal, checked them against each other to make sure they were correct and then filled in the rest. With the design completed I did a couple of photocopies and also scanned it for safe keeping. From right to left we have the original plan, the final design, the photocopy to be used as a template and the aluminium, with the original cover centre and glue to stick the template on. Only that's completely the wrong glue ๐Ÿ˜– Looks more like spider spooge. ๐Ÿคฃ Still, it stuck that template down pretty good, if a little on the lumpy side. I also had to rub dirt around the edges where there was no paper to remove the tackiness of the glue and stop the jigsaw from sticking. That very morning I had been reading up on a cool little scratch build someone was doing as their first mod and advising themon how to cut outside the line and file in, so what do I do on the very first cut? Cut BANG ON the line ๐Ÿคฌ๐Ÿ™„ It was the edge on the far right next to the SATA ports so wasn't a complete catastrophe, but was very careful and took my time with the rest and came out fine, although the small vertical edge under the angular protrusion top right was hard to get at. The Filing went ok, I'd bought a set of steel jaws for the workbench to clamp it in which helped keep it nice and steady. This tight angle was tough though as I didn't have a triangular file that matched or was under that radius. i had to edge in with the half round file, flipping it over every few strokes. A bit of folded sand paper helped get it a bit tighter, but it put up a good fight, Took a good lot of doing, had to go at it in a few goes to save me from injury. But was all this mess worth it? It fits! ๐Ÿค˜ There were a couple of areas that needed work that I highlighted in green, either to straighten them up, change the angle or stop it overhanging headers I'll need access to. Bang on. ๐Ÿ‘Œ To get it to sit flush in the recesses of the M.2 heatsinks I needed to drill holes for the screws holding the heatsinks down. To mark where they were I put masking tape on the back, coloured the screw heads with whiteboard marker and pushed the piece onto them, being careful that it lined up with where it needed to sit. Seemed to work well. I used a punch to mark the centre and make sure the drill bit didn't wander. I thought the screw heads were 4mm so I drill a hole with a 4.2mm bit to give a little wiggle room, but I must have measure the wrong screws (the ones that will mount this to the motherboard i think) as they were a little too small. I needed 5.37mm holes minimum. My step bit had a 7/32" step which is 5.56mm and would do the job nicely. Unfortunately, due to either a wandering bit or inaccuracies in how I got the positioning the top hole was just out. ๐Ÿ˜ž To be honest I wasn't THAT upset. There were a few edges that were a bit naff and there were a couple of tweaks I wanted to make, so I widened those holes a fair bit so I could get it into place, check the fitment elsewhere and make sure the markings for the mounting holes were accurate, which they were. And just for fun I took off the paper and gave it a really quick and dirty "brushing" with a washing up scotch pad, but was mostly just from trying to get all that nasty glue off. Still looks pretty tasty ๐Ÿ˜ It's a shame it's going to end up in the recycling, but for a first whack it's not gone too badly. I had prepared myself that it might take a couple of goes to get it right and with the design tweaks for Mk II already in my head, I wouldn't have been happy till I'd redone it anyway. So stay tuned crap fans! Plenty more of Makin's metal manipulation to come. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  2. Ahoy hoy mod fans! While I was waiting for the rest of the parts to turn up before I could do anything further on the case, I set my sights on some of the internals that could do with some tweaking. I needed to brighten the motherboard up as the main chamber of the case will have a bare metal finish and it would look like a black hole in amongst all the bright shiny metal. I've also never been much of a fan of modern motherboard heatsinks. I loved the fin-stacked heat-piped up solutions of yore and I'd even kept the one's off the Striker II NSE/Extreme boards for the ages after I'd binned the boards, but lost them in a move. ๐Ÿ˜” What I did have was some Thermalright MOFSET heatsinks and a beefy Supermicro 1U copper cpu heatsink that I could use instead of or in combination with the existing ones Time to get this board stripped down. The CPU heatsink's mounting holes lined up perfectly with the mounting holes for the cover, almost like it was made to live there. Not sure it's supposed to come out like that ๐Ÿ˜ณ Was very lucky not to strip any pins out of the CPU. Can just imagine how well that conversation would have gone down with Thermaltake ๐Ÿ˜… After that heart exploding moment I gave the CPU, block and board a bit of a cleansing. This was the kind of setup I was looking at doing. I plan on milling a flat channel into the boards original heatsinks and using thermal glue to attach the Thermalright MOFSET heatsinks to them, rather than on there own. MOFSET sizes have grown a bit since these were made! There may be a bit of a fitting issue for the one on the left side MOFSET bank as it clashes a little with the IO shield. I'd rather keep that intact if possible. Those original heatsinks would still be too dark as is though, so we'll have to do something about that gun metal grey anodising. First off taking the fan off the chipset cooler, stripping the thermal pads (after measuring the sizes for their replacement) and giving them a good clean with TIM cleaner to remove the grease from the thermal pads, before they go for a little dip..... ... in some of this horrid stuff. Also know as Sodium Hydroxide. I'd picked up these old sweet containers to bathe the parts in and then rinse. Sadly I didn't get to eat the contents first, but given my ever increasing waistline that's probably for the best. I'd given them a good clean several times over and then a thorough rinse as I didn't want any contaminants in there that may react with the Sodium Hydroxide. You'll have to forgive me for the lack of pictures of the process, I was dolled up to the 9's in PPE (including a waterproof coat with a bin bag over it, was quite a sight) and didn't fancy getting my phone out whilst in the middle of it all. I placed the 3 tubs in the bath, seemed like a good place to do it as there's good ventilation in the bathroom and if things go south it can turn the taps on and ditch it down the drain quick. With the drain on my left, I used the left most container to have the solution in. I filled the other 2 with water as a 2 stage rinsing set up. I put 1 litre of water into the other and added 50g of sodium hydroxide crystals in gradually, in about 5 or 6 stages, mixing thoroughly with a toothbrush I had to scrub the pieces as the anodising came off. I used cold water to control/slow the reaction a bit so I could leave the pieces in long enough to get all the anodising off, without it just eating the aluminium away I put the large MOFSET cooler in first as I figured it could probably do with going in when it was fresh. It took a little while to get going and do anything, but sure enough bubbles started to come. I turned it over a few times, giving a little whirl in the fluid and you could see the colour fall off it. I then started giving it a helping hand with the toothbrush, especially in the little gaps. When the anodising had all come off I pulled it out and gave it a gentle shake, dropped it into the next tub with the clean water in, gave it a good whirl in there and and gentle clean with a second tooth brush, then into the third container for more fresh water, before finally putting it on some kitchen towels I'd set to the side to dry off. I then repeated the process with the rest of the pieces. The end result was better than I ever could have imagined ๐Ÿ˜ The Aluminium on the newly stripped heatsinks is so bright, almost white. Look how it contrasts here to a piece of Aluminium sheet that I've had for a few years. And they look so good on the motherboard too! Super chuffed with the result. At least 3 chufty badges! Sadly the copper cpu block isn't going to fit, although given it's gargantuan size it shouldn't be all that surprising. I could have had a go at cutting off a corner here and there to get it to fit, but I don't think I've got the tools for the job and I'd probably end up ruining it. In all honesty with the amount of silver that's going to be around, the copper would probably look out of place anyway. Best to keep that for another day. I had a little test fit with the MOFSET heatsinks, either just sat on or with the help of an old thermal pad. Still not convinced that one on the left if going to fit without interfering with the IO shield. Thought I could maybe switch that one to the lower M.2 slot cooler. ๐Ÿค” In all honesty I'm not entirely convinced. Now I've got the stock heatsinks stripped, they look pretty dam cool. I have to be 100% sure as if I commit to it and it doesn't look good with the heatsinks on, I'll have wrecked the originals, so there's no going back. That can go on the back burner for now. There's a lot to be done still and I can always come beck to it later. It does look pretty dam sweet as is though. We got some new parts! ๐Ÿ‘ Huge thanks to the guys at Scan (and DPD) for getting these over to us.๐Ÿ™Œ Lots of fittings and adapters, a couple of litres of coolant, some 1m tubes for longer runs and backup for the inevitable mistakes, a nice thick rad and 9 of Thermaltake's new Riing Quad fans which I'm looking forward to getting snazzy with the NeonMaker software. I am NOT looking forward to the cable/sleeving job of 9 RGB fans ๐Ÿ˜ญ Now putting heatsinks to one side, I'm still not done with the motherboard and whilst I have done some more stuff, it's not finished and I don't want to put it out half baked. I had hoped to finish it today but after 3 days of working on it on and off, this morning my body said no. ๐Ÿค• This seemed like a good place as any for a little update though, I hope you all enjoyed the show. For now I'll leave you with one last shot of those heatsinks in all their glittery glory. Hopefully I'll have another update for you later this week, so stay tuned crap fans! Same Crap Time, same Crap channel.
  3. Thanks mate I'm on a fistful of painkillers you need a degree to spell too. Ended up losing my job because of it, can't sit at a desk or table for half an hour without being in agony, although the physio is helping. That in itself is pretty darn grueling though.
  4. An Open Letter To No Work Hi-diddly-hey modderinos! I just wanted to apologise for the lack of progress and updates, as since the last episode of Project I.S.A.C. I've not been very well. I have nerve damage from a botched hernia operation and subsequent ill-advised treatment, so I have to be a careful with any kind of physical activity. After the last break due to a stomach complaint, I pushed a bit too hard in an effort to try and catch up and ended up aggravating the nerves and have had to take a couple of weeks to let that die down and concentrate on my physio (all 3.5hours a day of it!). Even though I've been feeling a lot better and doing some stuff around the house, just yesterday I was in a lot of pain after 10-15mins of washing up. It's immensely frustrating. I'm not after any sympathy, so put the violins away, just a little understanding that whilst I'll do my best to bring you an update and some meaningful progress each week, there may be times when I have to down Dremel and look after myself. There should be a little update video being pushed out by Thermaltake tomorrow, be sure to keep an eye out for that. For now I'll begetting on with a few little bits and pieces of 'lighter' work, so stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.
  5. Hi-diddly-hey modderinos! I've not been too well over the last week, fortunately not from you know what, but it has meant there hasn't been an awful lot of progress. I haven't been completely idle though. I've done a few test fittings as the odd part has come in and done some detail plans for some of the things that weren't fully fleshed out. I've also had some more destruction equipment turn up, so toward the end of the week I got back to it. First on the agenda was to continue the "ageing process" and try and blend the side panel into the rest of the case. After I'd finished the side panel I was a little concerned that maybe I should have had the panel on and been doing it in-situ, but I needn't have been. Being a bit of a clumsy oaf and having dropped more than my fair share of computers, I know they can get a bit dented and nicked around the bottom edge. What better way to expedite that than the pointy end of a hammer. I had been using my Dremel with the stand just on the floor. It had fallen over a couple of times and wasn't exactly the ideal orientation for free use of the flexible shaft (quieten down ๐Ÿ˜‰), so I rigged up something a bit more secure that would allow better movement and it helped no end in getting in to it at the right angle (I said quiet in the back! ) I want to try and make sure there are nice little touches here and there, things that may not be immediately obvious or possibly hidden from view, but it's those little flourishes that can make all the difference. In particular I want to try and put in little touches of wear where there would be from actual natural use, not just outright destruction. The little HDD access panel at the back seemed like a prime candidate for just such a thing, where the 2 tabs sit into the case. Taking my trusty 'not for wood any more' chisel, I slowly ground down into the paint and I tried to do it with the same kind of small pivoting motions you'd get from moving the panel about. And not forgetting the panel itself of course. I'm not going to be using the fan filter on the bottom of the case and the tabs that stick out to hold it in place are no longer required. They also kept getting caught on stuff and it got annoying so..... There's also something else missing here. Care to guess what? Can you tell what it is yet? Next up for ruination are the door hinges. First up a little sanding, trying to swing round as the door would and make it look like natural wear. Then I took them out so they could spend a little time with Mr Dremel the Destructor. I used this pointy grinding bit to get in the nook of the screw threads on the first one, which was a bad choice as it left a lot of score lines. I switched over to the abrasive wheels for the other side and the other hinge. Of course when I go to put them back in I drop one of the screws, it bounces once then down through the crack in the floorboards of the shed. ๐Ÿ™„ So I go in search of a replacement, I've got loads of screws from this and that, one is bound to fit. First stop is the screw tin. I didn't find a screw that matched, but it did appear to be the same thread as a motherboard stand-off, so off to my bag of screws to find an M3.5 No luck there either so we turn to the tin of last resorts, where screws go to die, there must be something in here..... Ah. Just whole bunch of junk and tat. ๐Ÿคจ So armed with the remaining screw and a stand-off I went back to check that was indeed the size. Success! So I ordered some nice shiny nickel plated replacements. Probably for the best anyway, black ones would look a little daft once all those rivets have been removed. But that's for another day..... ..... as is this rather large parcel ๐Ÿ˜œ That's all for now folks. Will you ever find out what's in the box, or what's happening to the rivets? Stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.
  6. Ahoy hoy modderinos! After my woeful attempt to cause any damage with rather unorthodox methods, it's time to get back to good old fashioned power tools. I didn't really have a defined plan for what i wanted or how I was going to do it, just more of an idea of how I wanted it to look. I decided to tackle the back panel first, as that would be taking the brunt of the damage and I could try a few things out. First up I had to get rid of those nice neat grills. The jigsaw cut through them so much easier than I thought it would, so glad I've got it in the toolkit as it would have taken an absolute age with a dremel. The Dremel is good for getting the smaller bits and grindin stuff out though. But in those small places it can get caught up and break discs, which is why safety gear is an absolute must. You may look a bit funny, but losing an eye is not. I didn't want to make it too perfect, so i left some of the protruding bits and gave it all a quick file to take any sharp rough edges off. Then things took a bit more of a drastic turn. Armed with a couple of hammers, a screwdriver and a chisel, I dented up and scored out this line and put a little gouge in with the Dremel, as though someone had tried to smash there way in. It will be developed further as I go along, build it up a bit at a time. Next up I started putting some wear marks in places that would get a lot of action and likely to get bashed a bit. These bits were done with a grinding stone bit on the Dremel. The edges took a beating from a sanding wheel, as well as some other areas of the panel, wearing off some of the paint to varying degrees. To try and blend those in I thought I'd try a wire wheel, and while it did work to an extent, it mostly just left a mark on the panel, the metal rubbing off on this extremely sturdy paint. Now as luck would have it, it was exactly the kind of grubby look I'd wanted to put in places, give it a dirty man-handled effect. Here you can see someone's dirty fingerprints and wear where the panel would be pinched on along the front edge. I don't entirely know what I was going for on this bit, I was kind of experimenting with different bits and seeing what happened. I did get some nice deep score/scratch mark across the panel bit these 2 bits though. Now the panel is largely finished in terms of damage and relieving it of it's paint. I might give some sections a very light sanding to blend some of it in and there's a little painting and other touches, but overall I like the brutality of it. It should contrast nicely with the clean clinical look I'll be going for in the front chamber. Perhaps most importantly, it still fits and functions as a side panel! Against the clean rear side of the case you can really get an idea of difference and what a hard life that right hand side has had. As have these little troopers, #### rest their shanks. That's all for now folks until the next update of more damage and destruction and I attempt to blend in that panel to the rest of the case. So stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.
  7. Ahoy hoy Modderinos! So now we've tested everything works. It's time to break it all down and start modding! I can't believe how well the case stood up to the pelting I gave it, just shows the quality of the finish on the case. There's a lot of sharp, jagged, pointy edges on those stones and they've really not done much at all. Really going to have to give it some welly to rough it up like I want. The brick on the other hand did manage to leave a mark.... ....and a bit of a dent..... ....but nothing that wasn't easily fixable. Now it's time to get serious and bring out the big guns This will be my home for the next couple of months, best get comfortable. That's all for now folks. Don't worry, there's already PLENTY of damage dealt already for the next update, so stay tuned Crapfans! Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.
  8. Just a few pictures from the test build, includes some "behind the scenes" (and by scenes i mean motherboard tray ๐Ÿ˜…) A Spaghetti mess of cables ๐Ÿฅด Cable Management just means you managed to get them in, right? In these difficult times there's no tissue available for leak testing. Fingers crossed! ๐Ÿคž Pretty from pretty much any angle. ๐Ÿ˜ [/url] A look with the lights on (wish I'd taken a few more picks like this) All working A-OK ๐Ÿ‘Œ While editing my mouse kept catching on something and I saw this poking off the bottom. 6-7 years of owning my R.A.T. 7 and this sticker has only just come off. I never thought editing would be such a PITA. Stay tuned Crap fans! Another little update should be hitting you soon. Same Crap time, same Crap Channel.
  9. I've sometimes done builds where I have an idea in my head of what I want to do, I might even have sketched some quick plans of what I want, but when I come to actually do the build I find things don't fit in like I thought they would. Sometimes it can be solves with a couple more parts or fittings, but sometimes when things REALLY don't fit, you have to scrap then plan all together, or get drastic with a Dremel. I had to make sure that all the components worked, so what better way to do that and get to know the case properly than do a complete build in it! Whilst this is quite different from the final configuration of the mod, it has allowed me to evaluate some of my design ideas while building and try/figure a few things out. So sit back, put your feet up and enjoy the ride.
  10. Hi-diddly-hey modderinos! Welcome to the project log of my entry in the Thermaltake 2020 Case Mod Challenge; Project: I.S.A.C. - themed on Tom Clancy's The Division 2, a game by Ubisoft Massive. For the competition, 5 of us have been given the same components to do a case mod with and we have until 15th June to complete our mods. I'll try and post regular updates to keep you updated on the progress. A huge thanks to all of the sponsors for making this competition possible; Thermaltake UK, Scan Computers UK, AMD, ASUS and Seagate. First off lets have look at the parts we'll be using for the mod: Thermaltake View 51 Tempered Glass Snow ARGB Edition Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 850W PSU Thermaltake ThoughRAM RGB 32GB 3000MHz Seagate FireCuda 520 500GB M.2 PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD Seagate IronWolf Pro 14TB NAS 3.5" SATA HDD ASUS ROG Strix X570-F Gaming AMD Ryzen 7 3700X ASUS Radeon RX 5700 8GB 300mm Thermaltake TT Premium PCIe 3.0 Extender Thermaltake TtMod Sleeved Cables & Combs Kit Pacific V-RX 5700 Series Plus GPU Waterblock Thermaltake Pacific C360 DDC Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit and Hard Tube Bending Kit Again huge thanks to Thermaltake UK, Scan Computers UK, AMD, ASUS and Seagate for sponsoring the competition. I'll be back soon with some progress, so stay tuned Crap fans. Same Crap time, same Crap channel.
  11. There seem to be an awful lot of obviously fake accounts putting up spam/phishing threads and flooding the forum with rubbish, especially in System builds. Is this a new phenomenon?
  12. Now this is the story all about how My build got flipped, turned upside down And I'd like to take a minute, just sit right there I'll tell you how it became the build that causes nightmares This is a build I recently did for my brother, after his PSU blew up in spectacular fashion and took a bunch of other parts with it. He'd talked about wanting to go custom watercooled for a while as he hated his noisy rig, I'd even bought him some second hand rads, a pump and fittings to get him going, but for various reasons it never got off the ground. Now was the perfect opportunity, go big or go home. Now my brother has full-on OCD, so things have to be just so or it will annoy him to oblivion, so I had to get it right and make it as neat and clean as possible. After putting together then main hardware temporarily to ensure everything worked, I tested out the DeepCool RGB 200 Pro strips we'd got. While they looked good, they had a bit of a 'spotlighty' look to them. To try and dissipate the light a bit more, I ordered some of the plastic strips that are used for aluminium channels, when putting led strips in kitchens etc. They seemed to do the trick and would also help to hide the strips in the white case. There was a slight problem with the length of the cable between the rgb strips however and the black cables would also stand out a bit, so thought I'd try sleeving them and taking the plastic connectors off the wires, just using the terminal pins. As you can see in the pic above, the test of the new shortened and spliced strips was a great success, I hadn't broken it! ๐Ÿ˜ Now I just needed to take the connectors back off to join in the other 2 strips... Balls. ๐Ÿ˜ขI was so annoyed with myself as I only had to take that connector off as I forgot to put the last bit of heatshrink on first. After a bit of thinking, a lot of fiddling trying desperately to reattach it, failing and then ordering some new strips, I realised I had the terminal pins I'd cut off the spliced strips. I could take the other pins off and attach those sections to save it, then carry on joining the strips together. Turned out pretty good in the end. Accept it didn't. Due to a combination of the ribbon style cable, the sleeving and all the heatshrink used to isolate the connections, the cable just did not want to bend and twist as I wanted. I wriggled and flexed and bent them about, but turning and bending them to get the led strips into place put a lot of torque into the cables and the strips would never have stuck properly. So off it all came, apart from the join in the corner which shortened the cables, which was a massive PITA and a bitter disappointment. But a lesson learned for next time. I decided to do a few more fun bits to recover. Cleaned up the CPU and the Heatkiller block and got that mounted, did some cable management and other tidying, plus set up the rads on a spare res/pump unit and got them cleaned with some Mayhems Part2. Next I mounted the DDC pump into the Heatkiller tube. I did still sleeve the power and PWM cable for the pump and they came out really nice. Next it was time to mount the fans, rad and res in the side mounts, it was going to be a really tight fit to get them it. Than NB eloops have a really nice mounting method, but the screws are really long and the nuts a little large for my liking, so i turned the screws round so the small heads were shown in the main chamber. They JUST caught on the the mounting holes, in hindsight some small washers may have been a good idea. The 120 rad was being a pain and I couldn't all the screws to catch. Just when I thought I had done it and was tightening them up there was a "PING" and the top left corner had come away, stripping the thread. I couldn't believe it. ๐Ÿ˜ž Determined not to let this build get the better of me, I got to work on a solution. I had the nuts for the eloop fan that would connect to the rad spare, 2 of them almost fit underneath the screw hole, but there was some material in the way. I stripped down the rad, as the panels can be taken off on these EK rads and filed off the debris. I got the panel back on and slid the nuts underneath, it was still a tight fit so they would stay of there own accord while mounting. Fortunately it worked a treat and the rad mounted first time. The res was also really tight and tricky to get into place, but I got there in the end. When I was testing the parts, I noticed that the vertical adapter bracket sagged towards the back. While the front of it has a lip that luckily sat nicely on the 2.5" trays on the case floor, the rear had no support at all. I looked for something I could put under it to keep it up (quite in the back there, I hear you laughing), I tried various odds and sods but nothing fit. Luckily I had some aluminium angle left over from making a custom side panel on my rig The Cure and it was the perfect size. I didn't want it to stand out, so I covered them in black electrical tape to match the hard drive trays. Next up was mounting the GPU, always one of my favourite jobs. The Heatkiller blocks are just incredible, they come with all the thermal pads precut to make things easier, especially as there are 16 of them. 16! It helps if you have a little build buddy. When mounting gpu blocks, I like to sit the block upside down on a box and move the pcb to it, rather than have the pcb on the table and move the block onto it. This way you have sight of the screw holes and can get it lined up properly first time. I noticed that some of the LED strips had started to come away, despite being relieved of the additional tension. Fortunately I still had some strong double sided tape to hand and had that fixed in a jiffy, along with installing all the diffusing strips. That was the last of the 'construction', now it was time to plug and plumb everything in. I got all the fittings set up and started putting in the tubing. There were a couple of runs that were giving me trouble. The first was the run from the cpu to the top rad. I Thought I could run it at an angle from the cpu straight into the rad, but the io shield was bulkier and taller than I thought and the pipe sat right on top, pushed into it slightly. I put a 45 adapter in the rad and ran the tubing straight up from the cpu and into that. Worked quite nicely and allowed that run to be seen better behind the run from the top rad to the GPU. The other was the line from the 120 back up to the res. While planning it out previously I'd shown my brother 2 options; an extension out the rad and the 90's on both with a small straight line, or just 2 straight fittings and a big 180 loop. As I'd knocked them up quickly the small straight run was ruled out as it didn't line up properly, so he picked the 180. Now though, with everything installed properly and in their final resting places, the 180 loop would kink no matter the length and it just didn't look good. I went beck and looked at the possibility of a straight line. With a 20mm extension there was an 8mm distance to make up. Unfortunately there are no 28mm extensions, but there are 30mm ones and I could push the res out by 2mm by installing some rubber washers and longer screws. So a few ebay orders later (including an extra 90 and drain valve which I'd completely overlooked), I was set, the rest of the loop was finished and it was time for a final clean. Once the bubbles had settled it looked so #### dam good (even if i do say so myself), that I contemplated scrapping using pastel and going with clear coolant. But that wouldn't really catch the light as well and I'm glad I stuck with the pastel in the end. I think. ha ha After half a dozen or so flushes I dried her out and finished installing and managing all the power cables (as best you can cable manage stock cables ๐Ÿคจ ), the final few parts arrived. This most and surprisingly difficult of builds couldn't let me go without one last kick in the nuts. While installing the rubber washers on the res mount I knocked the middle fan and pushed the bottom screws out of the mounting holes and these screws lived behind the top of the rad. The rad that had already had 1 thread stripped while mounting it. Try as I might to wriggle them back in and stay put, they simply refused and fell out again at the slightest of touches. I had been so close to finishing, but now I was looking at having to dismantle that whole section and run the risk of stripping yet another thread, as that rad had obviously lived one #### of a life previously. I almost cried. ๐Ÿ˜ข After a lot of cursing, the answer was staring me right in the face; a big bag of cable ties. I could use a couple of cable ties to loop through the holes and round the mounts! It worked like a charm. The fan was stuck fast and you couldn't really see the total bodge. I'd got away with it. ๐Ÿ˜… Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of it as I was too busy changing my underwear. lol Finally it was time for filling. Was it all Worth it? #### Yeh! ๐Ÿ˜ Enjoy the gallery below. I hope you likedthe coming along for the ride, hopefully it wont put me off building another for too long ๐Ÿ˜‰ So stay tuned Crapfans. Same crap time. Same crap channel. DSC_3195 by The_Crapman, on Flickr
×
×
  • Create New...