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[Worklog][Jonsbo W2 Black Window] The Punisher


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I´m the new guy here. Actually I had a account here before, many years ago but I cannot remember the name and maybe it has been deleted due to inactivity.

Some of you may have seen me in other forums too ;)

Since I´m nearly done with my old Project, I guess the time has come to start another one.

I have chosen a Jonsbo W2 Black Window PC case as a base.

I like this case because it´s quite small, elegant and doesn´t look exaggerated.

I´ve received this large package just in time before Christmas. I want to thank PC-Cooling GmbH for the kind support and for the trust.





I guess that I´ll enjoy this Project a lot.

Though this case is quite small, it is possible to build a nice Water Cooling inside.



This Project should achieve a nice, industrial look and also contain a high quality, custom Water Cooling.


I will adjust the Aluminum front in order to achieve a better air flow. These pictures are just a quick idea and the final result might differ.


The second panel will also receive a window in order to have a look at all the components inside.

I will remove the "front panel" and build it in the case front instead. I guess this is the best position for a "front panel".



Every modification is performed through hard work, by hand, without the use of automated processes like eg. Laser, CNC etc.

I try to work as precise as possible and also to document my progress with great care and details.

Whenever it´s possible, I will also develop and build all electrical circuits by myself.

I won´t use prebuild stuff like eg. LED stripes if I´m able to achieve the same results by using my ingenuity.

I would only use this kind of stuff if there isn´t any alternative possible to implement my idea.

Expect everything you could from a guy who has the drive to hold on to his visions.


Social Media:

Don´t miss any Updates about my Projects. Subscribe to my Facebook Page: GorgTech Engineering


PC Hardware Parts:

CPU: Intel Core I7 7700K
Mainboard: Asrock Z270 Taichi
HDD: 240GB GOODRAM Iridium Pro SSD
GPU: AORUS Radeon™ RX580 8G
PSU: Cooler Master V550
Sound: Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR


Water Cooling Parts:

Alphacool Eisblock XPX CPU - Intel/AMD - polished clear version

Phobya CPU Mainboard Backplate 775/1366/1155/1156/2011

Alphacool Eisfluegel flow indicator G1/4 square - acetal

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 280mm Radiator

Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 120mm Radiator

Alphacool Eiszapfen 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Chrome

Alphacool Eiszapfen double nippel rotatable G1/4 outer thread to G1/4 outer thread - chrome

Alphacool connection terminal TEE T-piece round, G1/4 - chrome

Alphacool double nipple G1/4 outer thread to G1/4'' outer thread with O-ring - Chrome

Alphacool Eiszapfen 13/10mm compression fitting 90° rotatable G1/4 - chrome

Alphacool Eiszapfen 13/10mm compression fitting G1/4 - chrome sixpack

Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal reservoir

Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 - Single Edition (Rev.2)

Masterkleer tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) Ultra clear 3,3m (10ft) "Retail Package" (BPA free)

Rubber grommet for 13mm

Aquatuning AT-Protect-UV Crystal Blue 1000ml

Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome

Alphacool Eiszapfen screw plug G1/4 - deep black

Alphacool HF L-connector G1/4 outer thread rotatable to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome

Alphacool NexXxoS GPX - ATI RX 580 M01 - incl. backplate - Black

Alphacool D-RAM module (for Alphacool D-RAM cooler) - Black

Alphacool D-RAM Cooler X4 Universal - Plexi Black Nickel

Alphacool HF 14 Smart Motion Cooling Plate - Nickel



PC-Cooling GmbH supports this Project with a high quality PC Case.

Aquatuning GmbH supports this Project with a high quality, custom Water Cooling and some extra items.

Noctua supports this Project with Highend Fans.

Cooler Master supports this Project with a enthusiast Power Supply.

Creative Labs supports this Project with a high end Sound Card.

Asrock supports this Project with a elite Mainboard.

GOODRAM supports this Project with plenty of RAM and a fast SSD.

notebooksbilliger.de supports this Project with a Flagship S.1151 CPU.

Aorus supports this Project with a fast GPU.

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Ok guys, I´ll sumarize my progress ;)

1. Update

Here are some pictures of the stock case:










I like the way this case has been designed.


Like I said before, I will move the "front panel" with the additional connections.


I won´t keep all elements since I don´t need any front audio connectors. To be honest, I never used these. I will keep the USB ports and some of the cables.


Where should I place the new USB ports and the Power + Reset Button? The lower bottom of the Aluminum front seems to be the perfect spot.


I planed the new position of the USB ports and the Power + Reset Buttons and went on with the first metal works.


That looks a lot better. I will spend some time though with adjusting the openings.

2. Update

At first I had to remove some parts in order to gain some space for other components.


I won´t need the part which holds the "front panel" anymore.


I might also remove the 3x 2,5" HDD/SSD cage permanently.


The 120 Fan and its grill have also been removed.


The same goes for the 2x 140 Fans out of the front.

I checked the Fans with my experimental power supply. These fans are decent enough but I don´t like the looks of them too much.

They will be replaced later by highend Fans.


I won´t need these dust filters anymore.


The dust filter which was attached to the bottom of the case will also be removed permanently.


I had to modify the bottom with a Dremel Clone in order to improve the air flow.


The metal is quite thin but still solid enough to hold a 240 radiator + fitting Fans.


I modified the Aluminum front again and removed these 3x crossbars. I will attach them again later.


It´s easier for me to add the planed openings for the 2x 140 Fans. I might use a "H2O" inscription instead and glue some Aliminum wire frame.


Here you can see the openings for the new "front panel" again.

Since I´m limited to max. 25 pictures, I will add the other updates in a new post later.

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3. Update


You can use 2x 120 or 2x 140 Fans behind the Aluminum front. I will use only 2x 140 Fans and this is why I´ve decided to remove the extra 120 mounts.


Now let´s have a closer look at the "front panel" PCB. First I had to remove some components since I might use them later.


The "clean" PCB received 2 extra M3 holes and was cut with a Dremel Clone.


I want the USB ports to be independent of the Aluminum front. This way I can remove the Aluminum front without any problems. I will also connect the Power + LED buttons with extra connectors in order to disconnect them easily if I have to. I´ve prepared a extra hole for the cables.


I´ve recycled some screws and bolts from Fans made by Blacknoise, just in case you were wondering why they look familiar to you.


One short test looks good. The USB ports fit nearly 100% in the openings. I´ll adjust them later until I´m 100% satisfied with the results.

I still lack some material, this is why I can only show some smaller modifications at the moment.

4. Update

Ok, the time has come to show a bigger update:


I´ve decided to shorten the crossbars.


The small parts are sturdy enough. The Aluminum front can be still mounted without any problems.


I want the 2x 140 Fans to get as much air as possible through the Aluminum front. At first I wanted to cut some stripes or a similar, simple motive but I changed my mind. I´ve figured out that I can cut a more complex motive out of the Aluminum front.


I used a Dremel Clone to scratch the outlines, as clean as possible. The tough part was to remove the inner material, without slipping and scratching the Aluminum front.


I was busy for several hours until I managed to remove the biggest part. This piece had to be as big as possible since I needed to cut further pieces out of it.


Ok, these pieces don´t look very smooth yet but at least these are somehow useful.


Let´s end the mystery. Maybe someone recognizes the motive?

These parts are not 100% smooth yet and I´ve attached them only temporary. I´ll have to remove the glue from the paper used. The Aluminum wire frame is awesome and will be attached later in order to hold the eyes + nose openings. It´s a nice contrast too and also lets enough air for the 2x 140 Fans through.

I guess that this motive looks great and also matches the Theme intended at the same time. I will "punish" the hardware later since it would be a waste to build a nice Water Cooling and not overclock at all ;)

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I hope that you´re not confused, why I posted 4 Updates in 2 posts? It´s because I had to wait as a new member until each post was verified by a moderator. This can take a while and I wanted all my threads to have the same content as soon as possible ;)

Since I´m waiting for some material, I continued with the Aluminum front.


I finished my motive and worked on the edges in order to smoothen them. I also grinded the edges at a 45° angle in order to enhance them.


I also worked on the smaller parts since the time has come to close the hole in the Aluminum front.


The edges got the same 45° treatment.


Not so flat and boring anymore, eh?


I used some 2K Epoxy Glue in order to stick them together.


I like this look a lot and the 2x 140 Fans are also happy to get some extra air.


The "Custom Fan Grill" will be illuminated later, I just have to figure out, which color to use and how to attach the LEDs in a sensible way.


I hope that the 2K Epoxy Glue won´t play any tricks on me;)


This is a quick preview, how the case looks by now. Please excuse the chaos in the background.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The time has come for another update. I´m still waiting for some parts and I´m sorry that I cannot offer a huge update right now.


This part looks familiar, eh? What will I use it for? It´s going to connect the electronics planed for the Aluminum Front.


Where will I attach this socket? I think this is a good place for it.


I´ve used a Dremel Clone in order to cut a hole.


Well, this looks OK to me.


I guess, this doesn´t look bad? There is enough room for me in order to attach the connector and to fix the cables needed.


I´ve resized all pictures in case you didn´t notice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, some more electronics crafting.


I had to adjust the hole for the socket just a little more.


What´s this? I made a little circuit which will be used for the 2x LED Buttons later.


Since soldering stuff is nice, I went on with the socket for the Aluminum front.


I didn´t like the surface very much and I could not get a idea out of my head. I used a Dremel Clone again in order to grind the surface.


I attached 2x M3 female screws.


Well, now I soldered them in place and removed the screws again.


It´s easier for me to remove the socket if I have to, without fiddling around too much and cutting my hands.


How should I hold the circuit for the LED Buttons in place? This piece of a Aluminum 90° angle seems to be ideal.


Just drill a hole and grind the surface of one side with some sanding paper and clean it with some rubbing alcohol or similar stuff.


Because it´s so nice, grind the surface of the back of the Aluminum front too and clean it. Attach the piece with some 2K glue. That looks quite sturdy,eh?


I had to remove this piece out of the case too in order to save some weight. No, to be honest, I won´t need it anymore.


Since I want to turn the LEDs I´m going to use on and off, I need a switch. I dont want the switch to be visible though. I found a ideal position behind the Aluminum front for it.


The switch will be attached there.


Just use a Dremel Clone again and cut a hole. By the way, did I mention that my Dremel Clone is really horrible?


Since I´m still waiting for some parts, more soldering fun ahead in order to save some time later.


Yummy cable salad and that´s just the beginning.


Well, this looks good enough and I guess that the front socket is nearly done. There is not much space left inside.


I´m happy with the looks of it. That´s it for now ;)

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Here we go again. I guess the Dremel Clone will soon be used again in order to make some adjustments to the case ;)


I received this great package today. I want to thank Aquatuning Germany for the kind support and for the trust.


I wonder what´s inside?


Many Premium Water Cooling parts and some nice tools too ;) I´m sure that this Water Cooling will be awesome, though I have to admit that it´s my very first Water Cooling Projekt.

I might experience some problems but hey, everybody has to start small by jumping into the cold water. "Learning by Doing" is the best recipe if you want to improve your skills.

Are you looking for detailed pictures of all items? Just be patient since I´m going to shoot many detailed pictures later and also create a list ;)

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Well, I had a calm weekend this time. Let´s do some Unboxing.


Let´s have a look at the Phobya LED Buttons first. These will fill the holes in the Aluminum front and be used as Power and Reset Buttons. The blue ring will replace the Power LED, the white ring will show the HDD activity.

I´ve chosen these Buttons: Phobya push-button vandalism-proof / bell push 16mm stainless steel, blue ring lighting 5pin and Phobya push-button vandalism-proof / bell push 16mm stainless steel, white ring lighting 5pin.


They look nice, don´t they? I wanted the silver version in order to achieve a nice contrast with the dark Aluminum front.


These Buttons are quite long.


The build quality is awesome.


They can be used in order to close or to open circuits.


Now here´s the deal. These Buttons are long and I can´t attach the Aluminum front anymore. What can be done against it? You can drill some large holes in order to solve the problem.


Don´t they look great? These 2 holes have a large diameter for a reason. I don´t want to damage the cables attached to the Buttons when attaching or removing the Aluminum front.


Let´s solder some cables again. This doesn´t look that chaotic anymore, right? The remaining cable will be used for white LEDs.


I like the proportions of the Buttons in comparison to the USB ports. These Buttons are available in larger sizes too but I wanted to use the smaller versions. These are not too distracting.


Well, quite a nice contrast?

Let´s have a look at some other stuff too and start with the reservoir.


The Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal reservoir is ideal for this case.


What´s inside the box?


All parts are well packed.


I´ll have a closer look at this reservoir later when I have to find the ideal spot for it. I like the shiny tube though, hopefully it won´t be a fingerprint magnet?


The pump is next. This is the new Alphacool Eispumpe VPP775 - Single Edition (rev.2).


Let´s have a quick peek too.


This pump is also well packed.


I like the dark metallic color. This pump looks great, all cables are sleeved. It looks really elegant.


You can adjust the power of this pump. I will run it set to the 2. mode which should be enough for my needs.


What about the bottom? Nothing too special.


I also got this nice tool. I guess that most guys might already have a hose cutter if they´ve already built water coolings. This is the Hose cutter Aluminum 3-19mm which cuts hoses very clean. I like it since I don´t have to fiddle around with a regular sharp knife.


Just be careful not to chop off your finger!


If you work with electronics a lot and handle sensitive devices, it´s a good idea to get a anti-static mat. I got the popular Alphacool Eisplateau Anti-Static work- and mounting mat 120x60cm.


This mat is huge and will easily cover a regular desk. It can be rolled and stored in the box if you don´t need it at the moment. I like the useful information printed on it which could help a lot since you get eg. a description of pin connections, fan sizes and other data you might need when modding PCs.


Don´t forget to attach the grounding cables in order to protect sensitive devices from a electrostatic discharge.

I will work on the LED lighting of the case when I get the long awaited LEDs from China ;)

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The time has come to work on the case lightning ;)


These LEDs are pretty cheap if you order them directly from China. You need to wait a few weeks though ;)


According to the description, these are white 3W LEDs.


These LEDs are already mounted on some star shaped coolers.


Look at this nice thermal paste. It´s the Phobya NanoGrease Extreme 3.5g. I´ve used this thermal paste in other projects before and achieved great cooling performances with it. This thermal paste also helped to improve the cooling performance of a Google Nexus 5 (2013) and Google Nexus 6P.


This thermal paste is not only meant to be used with CPUs or GPUs only. It can get along with 2K glue as well.


Mix it together and it looks like this. I know that you can buy thermal conductive glue but you can also be inventive if you have to.


What will I use this stuff for? I cleaned the LED coolers and the back of the Aluminum front with Isopropanol and attached them. The glue is very strong, I have my doubts that I will ever be able to remove these coolers again.


Let´s wire the LEDs up and have a quick check if they are OK.


Well, I don´t like the yellowish tint which is really strong. These LEDs have a similar light like some old light bulbs.

I´m not sure if I really like it this way since I wanted a cold white light instead.


Lucky for me that I had these LEDs laying around.


They don´t have a cooler attached to them but this problem can be solved.


Just remove the other LEDs. It´s nice to see that the manufacturer used some thermal paste too.


I cleaned the coolers, removed the old solder and attached the new LEDs. I used some of the Phobya thermal paste too for best results.

That´s a lot better with barely a yellowish tint visible in comparison to the old LEDs. The Aluminum front acts like a giant cooler for these LEDs which prevents them from overheating.


The case itself will also get some LEDs too. I think that the warm yellowish light won´t look that bad inside.


The LEDs are hidden and can´t be seen directly. How will I connect them?


Another recycling of old material. This will work!

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Before I forget, I´ve also received this great package. I want to thank Noctua for the kind support and for the trust.


What´s inside?


Quite a bunch of Highend Fans which are ideal for this project in order to grab enough fresh air.


Let´s have a closer look at the Fans: 1x NF-A8 PWM which will be used in the second chamber, 3x NF-F12 PWM and 2x NF-A14 PWM for the radiators.


I like this "Fan-Ensemble" which looks interesting enough with the black case and gives a great contrast.


Each Fan has its own packaging which is very detailed. Since the packagings are similar, it´s enough to have a closer look at the one of a NF-F12 PWM as a example.


This is the regular version with the standard colours used by Noctua.


The back of the packaging can also show you more details.


What´s more important than the packaging itself is the technical data of these Fans. These Fans are ideal in order to achieve the best results out of this Water Cooling Project.


The 80mm Fan is optional in the second chamber and is meant to cool down the HDD/SDD attached inside. The Fan grill is nothing special and looks rather ugly.

I don´t like it.


What could I do about it? Let´s try to create something similar like the 140mm holes. It´s not a problem at all to draw something suitable.


Well, this was fast. The hole is better than the old grill but doesn´t look quite good to be honest.


Even if you attach the 80mm Fan, it still looks improvised. Not my cup of tea.


Let´s remove the sharp edges in order to prevent injuries. It´s OK but still not something I´m really happy with.


Now that looks a lot better. The new Fan grill doesn´t increase the air resistance. It´s healthy enough not to draw blood like crazy if you attach the Fan and are not careful enough.


I like this kind of shape a lot better. I need to use some sanding paper though before I´m 100% happy with the result.

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Let´s update this thread a little.


I´ve wired the LEDs in the second chamber of the case.


The same goes for the other chamber. Since I don´t want the wires to be visible, I had to drill a hole and use a cable protection.


Not bad, the lightning is very bright but also quite yellowish. I didn´t want to accept it that way.


I still had a few other white LEDs left. Let´s redo the same trick I had to perform with the Aluminum front again. The new LEDs also obtained some of the Phobya thermal paste.


The first chamber looks a lot better. No visible yellowish tint but just compare the other chamber in this picture which hasn´t been modified yet.


Having replaced the other LEDs too, this one looks decent too. There is barely a yellowish tint visible too, just the way I like it.


If you have a good eye sight, you might see a slight difference of the lightning in the second chamber. I had to use 2 different white LEDs since this is all I had laying around. However, the color temperature is nearly identical.

Will these LEDs run on full power all the time? No, I´ve set the current to a safe value which should last for a very long time.


Let´s have another look at the reservoir. I cannot use these brackets and this is why I removed them.


Don´t forget to mount the pump too. Hopefully I used enough pressure to prevent any leaks.

Now here´s the deal. Without being able to use the Alphacool mounting parts, it´s going to be a tough ride to attach the reservoir and the pump in this case. This PC case can handle AIOs without any problems but it´s not "Plug & Play" with the Water Cooling parts I´ve selected for it.


The pump looks great with the dark reservoir.


These remaining parts will be stored in the original packaging again.


I had to remove these parts and also clean them because the case looked really filthy because of the metall works performed on it.


Since this case was too filthy to work on it, I removed every other part like eg. my USB Ports and the front connectors etc. and gave it a shower. Really, this may sound dumb but it got rid of most of the dirt and metall junk.

After a while it was dry enough for me to handle again. Where will I mount the reservoir? Finding the "Sweet Spot" is not that easy like I thought it would be.

I need a well proportioned distance to the top of the case in order to be able to fill it with cooling fluid later. I also need to make sure that other components still fit in the second chamber.

If I mount the reservoir too far left, I will block the holes for the cables. Move the reservoir too far right, I won´t be able to fit in a power supply.

After a while I figured out a good spot for it.


Remember the rubber grommets on my parts list?


I will use these to protect the tubing.


Let´s find a good spot for them. There´s not much space you could chose for these rubber grommets because of the 280 radiator and the 2x 140mm Fans which will block 5,5cm of width. You can´t use thick parts in this area.

The LED wire fits because it uses the slight space available between the radiator and the wall.

I drilled the first holes for the reservoir after having measured the coordinates of the screw holes.


Let´s remove this part too for now.


I don´t have another choice but to attach the reservoir with the wall between the 2 chambers. It may sound less horrible than it is since I also have to bridge a gap between the pump mount and the wall of about 10mm too if I want to avoid any vibrations at all.

Better safe than sorry: Use some sort of rubber material in order to connect the reservoir holders and the pump mount with the wall.


We all know that rubber material can compress if enough force is added. Let´s use some Aluminum parts, old rubber material and a special piece you migh have seen before if you owned the Fan it comes with ;)


Use a sharp knife and modify 2 sides of this piece.


Attach some glue to hold these pieces in place while trying to mount the reservoir.


Not bad,eh? But wait, how does it look on the other side?


I used 4x of the screws you get with the reservoir. The pump mount is connected with 2 longer M4 screws I had laying around.

The reservoir looks really stiff and I cannot hear any sort of rattling when I try to move it around. I sure hope that the pump won´t transmit any vibrations through the thin wall. There´s only one way to find out but I don´t have the hardware yet I´m going to use in this Project.

Stay tuned for more!

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Let´s have a look at what I did last weekend.


Well, the time has come to check the 3x Radiators.
Having measured the case, I had to choose these Radiators which would fit.

I´m going to use a Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 120mm Radiator, Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator and Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 280mm Radiator.


Some more unboxing pleasure. Let´s focus on the packaging and content of this 280 Radiator only since the others are quite similar.


The Radiator is well packed.


M3 screws in different lenghts and a proper tool.


The 2x 140mm Fans for the 280 Radiator.


I like this color combination. It´s quite a nice contrast in comparison to boring, black Fans.


I had to find a alternative way of mounting the Fans on the Radiator. Maybe I was too clumsy and didn´t like the idea of mounting the Radiator and the Fans with one screw at the same time.


Well, at least I tried and guess what? I used too much force by accident and damaged a M3 thread.

Is this the end? Do I have to replace this Radiator? No, I fixed my error by enlarging the M3 thread and converting it into a M4 thread.

One screw looks different but everybody makes mistakes. At least it works. Once the Radiator is mounted, you won´t see my botched work again ;)


I´ve also mounted the 120mm Fans with short M3 screws on the 240 Radiator.


The last 120mm Fan will be used with the 120 Radiator. Well, all other threads are still OK. I guess I learned my lesson to be more gentle next time.


Let´s have a look if 2 Radiators fit. Yep, it´s a tight fit indeed. Other modells wouldn´t have been compatible with this Project.


Just use the screws enclosed with the Noctua Fans. These look pretty nice with the dark wall. A truly unusual sight ;)


My OCD kicked in again, I changed my mind about the modified bottom. I´m sure I can make this one look even greater.


Just use the Dremel Clone again, remove everything which could get really filthy. Well, at least I had another glorious idea ;)

Plenty of air for the 120mm Fans.


Just make sure to smoothen the edges in order to prevent yourself from drawing blood. This doesn´t look too bad, huh?


The white LED lightning will be great but what about some RGB taste too?

I couldn´t get this idea out of my head again.

The additional lightning will allow you to switch red, green or blue lights on or even use a LED fader which does this for you, including a nice fading effect you know from eg. RGB keyboards.

Do I have to mention that I´m going to build the LED lights and the extra circuits all by myself?

I´m going to need 4x extra switches for my needs but where can I attach them? There´s barely any useful spot left. I had to find a place below the Aluminum front.

Let´s see.


Cut some metal, save some weight.


What about the Aluminum front? I cannot use my connectors since all pins are used. I had to figure something new out.

This mount made of some scrap material could solve my problem.


Where can I attach it? The 280 Radiator is huge and I could only use the space below the top in a area of about 10mm.

Well, that´s it. The wiring will fit through the extra hole I added, right next to the mount.

This mount will make sure that the additional RGB lightning of the front is independent of the Aluminum front, even if you have to remove it.

What´s with the 2 extra holes in the mount? These are reserved for 2 additional cable ties.


What about this piece of Aluminum? Just have a look at the 3 holes and you might figure out, what´s this part for.


This angle was glued with 2K glue with the Aluminum front. It´s meant to prevent the cables from touching the blade of the lower 140mm Fan. The wires will be tied with cable ties.


That´s it for now.

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Just a quick Teaser for you. Don´t worry, this time you won´t have to scroll through several pictures, I promise.


Bright enough for your likes?


Who needs loud LED Fans? Not me for sure. Classic Fans without built in LEDs can look awesome too!

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Here´s another Unboxing as well as some further steps needed for the Water Cooling to progress.

I don´t want to flood the PC in case I have to drain the cooling fluid. This is something I planed right from the beginning.


I´ve chosen these important parts: Alphacool connection terminal TEE T-piece round, G1/4 - Chrome and Alphacool Eiszapfen 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Chrome.


Nice, massive and shiny.


I also needed suitable connection pieces. I´ll use these items:
 Alphacool double nipple G1/4 outer thread to G1/4'' outer thread with O-ring - Chrome
and Alphacool Eiszapfen double nippel rotatable G1/4 outer thread to G1/4 outer thread - chrome.

Both modells can come in handy.


The rotatable nipple also includes some extra gaskets.


Which fittings should I use? Since all the connecting parts will be visible, I want them to look good and to be of high quality. I´ll use these fittings: Alphacool Eiszapfen 13/10mm compression fitting 90° rotatable G1/4 - Chrome and Alphacool Eiszapfen 13/10mm compression fitting G1/4 - Chrome Sixpack.


These fittings are well packed and also come with alternative gaskets, in case you want to use them.


Don´t they look great? I like the massive looks and the shiny Chrome looks. I´m pretty sure that these puppies won´t flood the PC and should be 100% reliable.


Just used a few of these parts with the reservoir. Not bad, eh?


Let´s have a look at the CPU Cooler. I´ll use the new
Alphacool Eisblock XPX CPU - Intel/AMD - Deep Black


Just cut the sealing...


...and have a look at the stuff inside the box.


This CPU Cooler is well packed.


Quite a lot of parts inside. Everything you need for a AMD or INTEL CPU. There´s also some thermal paste inside, just in case you don´t have anything else laying around ;)


Just use some of the Eiszapfen fittings. Nice contrast between the dark cooler and the chrome parts.


To make sure that everything works out, you need to consider using a backplate too. I´ve chosen this one: Phobya CPU Mainboard Backplate 775/1366/1155/1156/2011.


What about a flow indicator in order to see if the pump is actually working? Just use this Alphacool Eisfluegel flow indicator G1/4 square - acetal.


This flow indicator looks great too and is a nice gadget to place somewhere visible in the case.


The Fan with six blades has 2 visible colors.


I like blue a lot better. That´s what I´m going to use.


Let´s try some more of the Eiszapfen fittings. Maybe I´ll replace them for other parts later, depending on where I have to connect the flow indicator.


Let the Radiators get some Eiszapfen fittings too. The straight Eiszapfen fit 100% the 120 Radiator.


I like the contrast too.


Use some more Eiszapfen fittings with the 240 Radiator.


Nice and shiny as well ;)


One last time, give the 280 Radiator some love too. I´m going to use 2x 90° angled Eiszapfen fittings in this case.


I really like the looks of these Eiszapfen fittings. I was looking for some industrial looks and I guess that these puppies will help a lot to achieve it ;)


I´m going to use regular tubing this time since hardtubes require extra tools and some experience. Just give this tubing a try: Masterkleer tubing PVC 13/10mm (3/8"ID) Ultra clear 3,3m (10ft) "Retail Package" (BPA free).


The Specs sound great, hopefully I won´t have any trouble with this tubing.


And the last component to make a Water Cooling complete is the coolant. I think I´ll use the Aquatuning AT-Protect-UV Crystal Blue 1000ml which should look great in combination with UV lightning.


Just have a look if regular lightning from a bright flashlight would work out as well. The white LEDs inside the case should have a similar effect.


Hmm, if you have a closer look you can see some particles inside the fluid. I sure hope that these won´t mess with the Coolers and attach to the surface over time?

I have to repeat myself at this point. It´s my very first Water Cooling and I expect myself to have to change some stuff or components later since not everything might work out the way I expect it.

Now comes the good news for you, since I guess you hate many pictures, especially Unboxings ;) That was the last Unboxing for now, you know what I have planed for this Project. I will do some more Unboxing when I have new stuff to use with this Project at a later time.

The next update will include some progress you might like ;)

Feel free to leave any comments in case you have questions or suggestions.

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What happened to the RGB LED lightning? Here is a update for you.


Everything started with this bunch of 5mm RGB LEDs.


Several hours later I´ve built these nice component boards. There was still plenty of stuff missing like eg. the resistors and some connections.

74 RGB LEDs require 3x 74 resistors which are not easy to obtain if you need some specific values.

Still a lot of trouble ahead but in the end I had to change my plans.

How could I mount these LED boards without them being visible in the end?

Long story short, I will use them for other purposes later.


Let´s use some Power LEDs again. These LEDs are quite expensive if purchased in small amounts. 4 Euro for 1 LED is not a good value in my opinion.

Hopefully they are worth the effort. 5 pieces should be enough for this project.


There´s not much left of the Phobya Thermal Paste ;)


The same procedure as usual.


I´ve removed the other LED mount. The RGB LEDs are glued again with DIY thermal conductive glue.


And the last RGB LED in the other compartment.


I went on with the switches in the bottom of the case. These are used in order to turn single colors on and off and to switch through other modes of operation as well.


These switches are easy to access but still hidden enough.


I´ve made a CMOS Reset Button. Where should I attach this one? With all hardware components and the Radiators installed it would be troublesome to clear the CMOS settings if you need to do so.

This Button could come in handy.


I changed the position of the switch for the white LEDs. This one has joined the other switches in the bottom of the case.

The CMOS Reset Button is attached in such a way that it cannot be pressed by accident if you remove the Aluminum front.


The cable connections of the new RGB LEDs.


The cables are attached with glue in some points in order to remain as flat as possible. I want the cabling to be next to invisible.


No more space left now ;) Just have a look at the space needed for the cables and the tubing.


Some DIY connectors. The whole system should be modular and easy to repair.


These parts can come in handy ;)


The first part of the control unit for the RGB LEDs took me several hours.


And here´s a small "SLI Bridge" required for the next circuit board.


This whole ensemble could look like this. Not bad, eh?


Nice quality and truly unique ;)


Let´s have a look if everything works out and hook this thing up. These RGB LEDs are pretty bright too but see for yourself ;)

Green looks interesting.


Blue too.


What about Red?

And here´s a nice RGB Test Video for you ;)

That´s it for now.

I had to change some parts of my concept again but that´s something not unusual in Casemodding.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time for another update.


I had these 2 Aluminum knobs laying around for a while. 1 of these was shortened with the Dremel Clone.


What will I use one of these for?


I had to modify my RGB control unit again since I purchased another RGB Power LED and had to adjust the circuit for higher current again in order to prevent it from burning.

This unit now supports some extra modes for adjusting the speed of the colors too.

The toggle switch lets you choose 2 extra speed modes which allow you to set every desired frequency of the colors.


The circuit board found a nice space in the second chamber.


I´ve adjusted the cabling of the RGB LEDs once again since I had to add another LED. In case you´re wondering, what happened to the joist in the lid, I had to modify it in order for the 120 Radiator to fit inside the case.


2 RGB LEDs are better than 1 ;) The second chamber gets some extra light too.


Let´s sleeve some of the cables with some black sleeving material I had laying around for a while.


Not bad, eh? I don´t care about the other cables which were used for the LEDs and are not black. It´s OK this way in case I have to repair the lightning. You never know if these LEDs don´t fail after a while.


I had to adjust the second side panel by drilling holes for the Aluminum #### and the toggle switch.


Not smooth enough? Not a big deal since I´ll cut some windows later and take care of the rest.


In order to fill the reservoir without twisting your fingers too much, I made myself a little helper and a proper hold for it out of some spare Aluminum material.


A old drawer handle turned into a DIY M5 knurled head screw.


This little screwdriver can come in handy ;)


Since this tool was made for this Project only, it´s only fair to find a suitable spot for it inside the case.

Here´s another RGB V2 Video for your viewing pleasure.

Now hit me with comments! That´s it for now.

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Time to work on some serious details.


Let´s have a look if the 120 Radiator fits.


I don´t want to alter the shape of the case too much. Well, to be honest I´m not a huge fan of external Radiators, that´s the reason why I want everything to fit inside the case.


The black Fan guard looks great on the Radiator as well and also offers some protection. The black screws are awesome too.


I swapped the screws of the 140mm and 80mm Fans for bulkier M5 Inbus screws and suitable lock washers. These little details improve the looks of the visible Fans through the Aluminum front. It´s a nice industrial touch as well.


Quite a nice combination.


I had to adjust the Aluminum front again. The cabling looks great and I had to cut some openings in order to prevent the Aluminum front from touching the screws.


The cables won´t touch the lower 140mm Fan.

My philosophy is strict: all projects should be designed in such a way that they are easy to repair.

What would happen if eg. the pump fails? I would have to remove the mainboard in oder to release the screws of the reservoir and to take it out. This is a worst case scenario but I don´t want to risk it at any times.


There is a more intelligent way to solve this problem without having to remove too many components. I decided to cut some sort of door in order to release the screws which hold the pump attached to the reservoir.


Cut the opening with a Dremel Clone.


Just use some scrap material I had laying around and build a few parts needed.


This door should not vibrate at any times. This requires a good and simple lock mechanism.


2x M5 domed cap nuts are great for this purpose and also easy to attach and to remove.


Quite a strong contrast but I don´t care. This door is practical and that´s the main reason I made it.


Next was the second side panel again. I started with 2 openings for the SSD or HDD I will use later and the reservoir.

That´s not the final look of this panel and I spent further time to draw the remaining openings.


Having spent quite some effort on the second side panel, it started to look really awesome. Just have a look at the shapes which fit great the shape of the side panel.

Modern with many angles and edges, just the way I like it.


The openings for the power supply Fan are great but not 100% up to my taste. Just remove some extra parts.


I guess you know where this is going.


These slots look a lot better to me.


This is how the power supply Fan could look like through these slots.


This looks promising enough in order to see enough of the stuff used in the second compartment.

I will grind the edges later with a file and sanding paper.


Just a short test. I won´t use the old HDD visible in this picture in the final build.

There is still some space left between the slots and the SSD or HDD window. Maybe I´ll cut another window or a nice logo inside.

That´s it again for this week!

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I took care of the side panel this week.


I smoothened the edges and made sure to make the edges visible, the same way I did with the Aluminum front.


The new slots look similar too.


Now I need to grab myself some glass to play with. I´m not sure if I´ll use regular glass or makrolon.


I really like the covering for the toggle switch and the potentiometer. You can still see plenty of the RGB stuff and the circuits itself.

That´s it again, soon I need to continue with the hardware components which are going to be used in this project. I still need many parts I don´t have yet.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here´s another update.


My plan was at first to glue the glass together with the Aluminum side panel but I had my doubts if this was a good idea. You need a strong mechanical tension to attach the side panel to the case which would have stressed the glued parts.

I´m going to use scratch resistant Plexiglas but I didn´t receive the ordered material yet.

Let´s use screws instead of glue, 37x M3 screws will do the job just fine.

I´ve also improved the edges with sanding paper and now these are 100% smooth.


Since I need to consider the space used by the Plexiglas itself, I had to cut some parts out of the frame. There is no other solution since the old position of the USB Ports made me cut that far on the left side in order to remove the holes.

I´m also stuck with 3mm thick Plexiglas in order not to touch the reservoir.


Inbus screws might look odd because of their height. Let´s use some nice Torx screws made of V2A instead which are shorter.


These Torx screws look better and it´s good not to mix multiple types of screws in the visible areas.

I´m going to keep the longer black M3 screws used for the USB Ports and for the CMOS Reset Button.


Not too bad, eh?


Just don´t forget to change the remaining Inbus screws too.


I might paint other parts of the case too but for now I gave the 120mm Fan Grill a nice silver coating.

Black  + Silver is a good mix.

There´s still a lot to do and I lack many hardware components. That´s it for now.

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It´s time for another update. I received this nice package these days.


I want to thank Cooler Master for the kind support and for the trust.

What´s inside? Let´s perform some Unboxing.


Plenty of Cooler Master MasterGel Maker elite thermal grease.


I like this thermal grease since this one is considered to be the best you can get these days, like many reviews can confirm.


This amount of thermal grease will be more than enough for many other projects too.

I´ve used this thermal grease for other purposes too.


The package also included some nice bonus items like eg. a Cooler Master keychain, some nice emblems and some Cooler Master blankets.


The most important component was a Cooler Master V550 Power Supply.


- Fully modular cable design
- Powerful and small at the same time
- Silent Silencio FP 120mm Fan
- 80+ Gold certified
- Up to 92% high efficiency
- 100% japanese capacitors for a extended lifetime and minimal power fluctuations


Model: RS550-AFBAG1-EU

Type: Intel Form Factor ATX 12V V2.31

Dimension: (W x L x H) 150 x 140 x 86mm

Input Voltage: 100-240Vac (Auto Range)

Input Current: 10 - 5A

Input Frequency Range: 63 - 47Hz

PFC: Active PFC (>0.9 typical)

Power Good Signal: 100-500ms

Hold Up Time: >16ms

Efficiency: 90% Typically

MTBF: >100,000 Hours


Output Capacity: 550W

Operation Temperature: 0~40°C


Fan: 120mm Silencio FP

Certifications: 80 Plus Gold


M/B 20+4 Pin Connector x 1
CPU 4+4 Pin x 1
PCI-e 6+2 Pin x 2
SATA x 6
4 Pin Peripheral x 3
4 Pin Floppy x 1

This small Power Supply is perfect for this project and looks nice too.


Some more Unboxing. I´ve used a Cooler Master V1000 Power Supply before which is still built in my Modified Desktop PC.


Let´s have a closer look. This small Power Supply is available in 550W, 650W and 750W. 550W should be OK for this project though.


The Power Supply and the cables are packed separately.


A cloth bag protects the Power Supply from scratches. The cables are stuffed into the bag next to it.

You also get some cable ties and 4 screws.


There´s not much to say about the cables. I like the idea that these are black and I don´t have to use sleeves on them ;)


A small Power Supply which will hopefully do the job as expected.


100% modular designs are a must have in this case in order to save as much space as possible.


The built in Fan is silent.


I guess the cooling will be awesome since the Power Supply gets fresh air from outside of the case.


And here´s a look at the Specs and efficiency again.

This is just a short description of the Power Supply and not a full review since this one would be too much for a worklog. From the looks of it, it´s a nice Power Supply which also looks great inside this case.


Let´s mount this Power Supply inside the case. Now you can see that this case is not as big as it might seem without any hardware inside? In fact it´s a small case which requires some thinkering around.


There is a gap of about 3cm between the reservoir and the Power Supply. It´s just enough to insert the cables and to bend them a little.


Quite a nice back.


And how would this Power Supply look behind bars?

That´s it again. I´m still waiting for the ordered glass in order to finish the second side panel.

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I received another package.


I want to thank Creative Labs for the kind support and for the trust.

Let´s have a look at what´s inside.


A nice Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR Sound Card. Having used a simple Realtek Onboard HD Audio Codec for the past years, I have high expectations.


That´s the flagship of the ultra high-performance Sound Blaster Z-Series and it looks awesome too. I´m sure that it fits well together with my project. From a technical point of view it´s nice to use with my DIY Valve Amplifiers;)

I could show you some pictures of these too if you´re interested.


Audio Technology: Sound Core3D

Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 124dB

Max. Channel Output: 5.1 Channels

Platform: PC - PCIe x1

Connectivity Options (Main):

Headphone: 1 x Amplified 1/4" jack

Speaker Out: 2 x RCA (L/R) 2 x 3.5mm jacks (Rear,C/Sub)

Microphone In: 1 x 1/4" jack

Connectivity Options (Accessory) DBPro Daughter Board:

Line In: 2 x RCA (L / R)

Optical Out: 1 x TOSLINK
Optical In: 1 x TOSLINK

Audio Technologies:

SBX Pro Studio, CrystalVoice, Scout Mode, Dolby Digital Technology, DTS Connect Encoding


Microphone Type: Dual-array Noise Canceling Condenser

Beamforming: Yes (Built into Audio Control Module)

Frequency Response: 100Hz to 20kHz

Sensitivity: -37dB

Sound Performance:

Audio Fidelity: Up to 24-bit / 192kHz

Studio Attributes:


Included Accessories:

Audio Control Module (with Beamforming Microphone Built-in)

Recommended Usage:

Gaming, Home Entertainment, Pro Audio, Recording

Supported Operating Systems:

Windows® 10, Windows® 8, Windows® 7


The components are packed in separate boxes. There are also suitable cables included.


The Sound Card has a nice EMI shielding and features golden connectors.


The DBPro Daughter Board looks similar and shares the same design. Both Sound Processors have a small cooler attached to them.


And here´s a simple envelope. What´s inside?


1x optical Toslink cable, 1x instruction manual and a CD with Software and Device Drivers.


This Audio Control Module can come in handy.


It´s nice to use it in order to swap through the In- and Outputs without having to fiddle around behind the case and also to adjust the volume. It also includes a built in microphone.


3.5mm plugs with extra 6.3mm adapters. The golden coating looks nice.

I´m going to test the items later as soon as the PC is finished.


The Sound Card includes high grade Opamps which can be swapped for other models if you feel the need to experiment. That´s a nice feature for audio enthusiasts.

Just remove the EMI shielding and use a antistatic mat in order to prevent electrostatic discharges which could damage the sensitive hardware.

You need to be patient and careful in order to remove the Opamps from the sockets.


The built in New Japan Radio NJM2114D Opamps are very good, however I had some LME49720NA Opamps from older projects laying around.

Having compared the datasheets of these ICs, I decided to use the LME49720NA since these have slightly better specs, at least in theory.

It´s not really necessary to change the Opamps but since I have these slightly better ICs, why not give them a try?


And it´s done. I´m going to store the other Opamps in case I have to insert them again.


Here´s another picture. I like the looks and I sure hope that the sound experience will be awesome too. There´s still a lot to do until I can finish this project.

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It´s time for another big update.


Let´s start with this nice package.

I want to thank Asrock for the kind support and for the trust.

There should be some awesome stuff inside ;)


A nice Asrock Z270 Taichi Mainboard.

Let´s have a quick look at the most important features since the full Specifications are too much for this worklog.


ASRock Super Alloy

Supports 7th and 6th Generation Intel® Core™ i7/i5/i3/Pentium/Celeron® Processors (Socket 1151)

Supports DDR4 3733+(OC)

4 PCIe 3.0 x16, 1 PCIe 3.0 x1

AMD 3-Way CrossFireX™, NVIDIA® Quad SLI™

Graphics Output Options: HDMI, Display Port

7.1 CH HD Audio (Realtek ALC1220 Audio Codec), Supports Purity Sound™ 4 & DTS Connect

10 SATA3, 3 Ultra M.2 (PCIe Gen3 x4 & SATA3)

2 USB 3.1 10Gb/s (1 Type-A + 1 Type-C), 9 USB 3.0 (4 Front, 4 Rear, 1 Vertical Type-A)

Dual Intel® Gigabit LAN

Intel® 802.11ac WiFi



Nice Specifications, high quality components and I´m sure that overclocking with this Mainboard will deliver great results.


Just check the contents.


Quite a lot of stuff inside. I like the 4x SATA cables which should be enough for most users. Some Mainboards only contain 2x SATA cables.


And the usual device drivers, instruction manuals which are needed in order to connect eg. the Power and Reset Buttons and some stickers.


That´s a strong packaging for the Mainboard.


Black & White design. The color scheme used is great inside the black case.

White elements like eg. the gears look awesome. Too bad that this design will be covered by PCIe devices later.


One last look before I mount the Mainboard in the case.


Not much to say.


Next I had to figure out, how to connect the cables with the Mainboard. I had to shorten nearly all cables because I don´t have much space left in the second chamber.

I need 3x Molex connectors for the pump, white LEDs, the RGB controller and the RGB LEDs.


That´s one example. All other cables look similar after the modification.


The same goes for the cable extensions used with the Fans. Here´s just one example.

The shorter cable is the modified one and looks exactly like the stock cable.


Several hours later. The second chamber is stuffed and it would have looked a lot worse with longer cables.


Let´s mount the 120 radiator and the Sound Card. The 240 radiator will be mounted later when I connect the Water Cooling Loop.


Barely visible cables.


The shiny Fan Guard looks awesome the way it is.


This case will also include one Slim Bluray Drive with a 5,25" adapter.


I had to modify the rubber grommets in order to prevent the hoses from kinking . Just cut some parts and glue them together.

Still not convinced that there´s barely any space available?


Finally I got the ordered glass. Well, it´s slightly shorter but I´ll improvise a little.


And this is how the glass is supposed to look like in order to fit inside the case.


The result. Does it look industrial enough?


And here´s a picture of the case, the way it looks right now ;)

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And I got another nice package.


I want to thank GOODRAM for the kind support and for the trust.

Let´s unbox this thing ;)


GOODRAM? Looks more like "Good-Yumm" :D

A nice treat is great in order to perform the remaining modifications.


Wait, there´s more! One 16GB GOODRAM IRDM DDR4 RAM KIT.

These modules have a frequency of 2400Mhz and 15-15-15 Timings. The RAM Coolers are white and look great in combination with the Mainboard.


16GB of RAM is plenty for this project.


Let´s build these puppies in.


And there´s another Goodie inside. A nice 240GB GOODRAM Iridium Pro SSD.

Just have a look at the Specifications.  


Let´s unbox this SSD. The design is clean and simple.


I won´t need the adapter because this SSD is not mounted into a Notebook.


Now here´s a tricky part which triggered my OCD: I cannot mount the SSD the way it is because the Text will be rotated by 180° which looks irritating.

I´ve already shortened the SATA power supply cables and cannot stretch them too much. The SATA cables for the SSD are also too short and this is why I had to figure something out, how to fix this problem.

Let´s use some force and sanding paper in order to remove the coating. Brushed metal and shiny enough.


Attach one of the included emblems.

I will have a "Iridium Pro" Text plotted at a later time and attach it below the emblem.


I use 1x 3,5" to  2x 2,5" adapter because I wanted to adjust the position of the SSD to my taste. The adapter prevents the SSD from being mounted too far on the right which would have destroyed my window design.

This adapter also allows me to use a extra SSD at a later time. You want to keep this Project upgradeable, don´t you? Since the threads of cheap adapters tend to break easily, I´ve expanded the holes and used M5 Torx screws and nuts.

This method looks awesome too ;) There are no vibrations at all.


The M3 screws used by the SSD have also been replaced by shortened M3 Torx screws. Maybe one small detail to other people but I want everything to look as uniform as possible.


The silver SSD is easy to spot and attracts the eyes. Btw, did I mention that Iridium looks somewhat silver too?


Silver + Black is a great combination. I cannot repeat this often enough.

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Update time again!


I´ve removed the integrated Fan Controller a while ago and nearly forgotten about it. I don´t really need to use it since most Fans are connected to the Mainboard. Well, all except the 80mm Fan which is optional for the second chamber.


I´ve adjusted the Fan Controller. The 80mm Fan can be supplied by a voltage of 5V, 12V or turned off.


5V is already enough for a quiet operation but I´m sure that I can adjust the voltage even lower. The resistor drops the voltage by about 0.5V.

Not too nice but functional. I have less cables to hide too ;)

The 80mm Fan is only there to prevent the SSD of heating up too much during a hot summer.


Aquatuning sent me some extra Goodies since I´ve forgotten to add some parts needed for the Water Cooling to fit inside this case. Such a small case can be tricky and requires some extra thinkering around.

I´ve forgotten to shoot some group pictures of the gear I got but nevertheless I´m going to show you the extra stuff.

I´m not sure if I´m going to use UV fluid or not and I wanted to have a suitable alternative. Just use some distilled water? Well, this might work but Phobya ZuperZero Clear 1000ml sounds like a better idea to me.


I also got some Alphacool HF L-connector G1/4 outer thread rotatable to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome which helped me to solve my problem with the reservoir.

Since the second chamber is pretty stuffed, I had a harder time to figure out how to mount the ball valve while avoiding the cables etc.


And this is how the second chamber looks right now.

Now here´s the deal, the SSD issue with the text and emblem which would have been displayed the wrong way, rotated by 180° had to be modified one more time.

Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel by eg. trying to create a plotted Text which would look strange since I don´t know which font was used by the manufacturer, why not try to restore the original looks again?

I made a label with the right dimensions by using a high resolution picture of the product as a basis, printed it on high quality photographic paper and attached it to the SSD. In conclusion I think that it looks better this way too.

The reservoir is dark, the power supply too and now the SSD again.


The flow indicator is mounted before the input port of the reservoir. I had to use a Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome for this purpose.

The yellow side is better in the end since it´s easier to spot and also fits the color of the PCBs used for my RGB Controller pretty well.


The ball valve also fits inside the second chamber. I used a Alphacool Eiszapfen screw plug G1/4 - deep black as a safety measure since I´ll have to transport this project later. This way I´m pretty sure that the fluid will stay inside the system and the ball valve won´t play any tricks on me ;)

Did I mention that there´s barely a distance of a few mm between the Plexiglas and the screw plug left?

This is why I couldn´t use a regular L-connector.


Barely any space left, just have a look at how close the stuff is mounted next to my RGB Controller.


Last but not least I also got some Alphacool tubing AlphaTube HF 13/10 (3/8"ID) - clear. I wasn´t sure if I want to use glossy looking tubing or something else. The other tubing looks a bit more elegant. Just a matter of taste.


And now attach the side panel. The reservoir got a small and shiny emblem which looks like polished copper.

It´s better than having to stare at a large and dark block?


Let´s connect some tubing in the other chamber too.


Quite a tight fit.


I´m not sure if I´m going to use some L-connectors in the end. For now I tried one Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - Chrome which looks nice.


Let´s attach the 240 Radiator. The 120mm Fans could easily hurt your fingers, this is why I decided to use 2x regular 120mm Fan Grills.

I also got 2 of these: Fan Grill for axial fans for 120mm - Chrome

These regular Fan Grills are still better than the original Fan Grill which I had to remove with the Dremel Clone.


Let´s use some more of these nice M5 Torx Screws, even if you don´t see the Fans ;)

That´s it for now.

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