Stefan Ulrich

Interesting to see how the case will be included here. Looks like it will be only a 1 Player acrade? Or did you already thought about a button layout. 3, 6 or 8 Buttons?

Ironknocker (Henning Wolters) from Germany for sure. Very talented guy.

Thanks guys. I also made a short making of video:

Thanks mate. Which "eye" do you mean. The one on the head part can move up and down.

Thanks man! I made a short video, showing the functions of this Dalek casemod:

Thanks man, actually I already build a TARDIS casemod last year ^^

Now its time for the first bunch of the final pictures. But first of all I want to thank all the sponsors, that make such awesome events happen. Huge thanks to Thermaltake for having me participate in this contest. In addition to the pictures, I will also make a short making of video and show all the functions on the mod. So here we go with the pictures.

haha, thanks man.

So here is the last update before the final pictures. First of all I want to thank Gosumodz for providing some nice sleeves and cable management stuff for this build. I installed the hardware at this moment. Therefore, I screwed the motherboard tray in place. Before putting the mobo in, I installed the needed fittings for the watercooling. Then the water cooling loop was build. Most parts are build from acrylic pipes. Only on the backside and the middel section, I used flexible tubing. Next, the details for the main doors were painted gold. At the moment, I am finishing the cable management and will do some final touch ups. The final pictures will be uploaded on Monday then.

Due to some space issues, I postponed the painting of the doors. INstead I also reworked the opening mechanism for the doors. Than this little fellow needed some color on him. Next up, I cut the neccesary part of the case into shape. In addition, I made a new backplate that will give stability to the graphics cards. The inside of the Dalek was covered with bronze foile. , Before installing the water tanks, I made some clamps that will tidely hold them. Then the water tanks were installed. I also put the PSU in place and attached it to the bottom plate. The hardware will be located on a little construction over the PSU. It is entirely made from wood. It will be covered with wooden boards that are covered with foile as well. Doing this, I already started to incorporate the water cooling and cable management parts.

Yes, the PSU will power everything. The arduino will be connected with USB to the mainboard. The LEDs have resistors in front and will be connected to the 5V of the PSU. For the servos I will use an converter to get 7,4V from the 12V of the PSU. And up we go. Not much time left, so I need to a bit faster now haha. I painted the doors for the mid section in a bronze tone. The paint was dabbed on with a brush to achieve a rough looking surface. The details then were painted gold with an airbrush. Then I 3D printed a cover for the opening were the weapon and instruments are attached. In addition, the mounting mechanism for the door was reworked. Now I can easily take the door out and it is much stronger that way. So part 3 of 4 is done. The last details will be added at the end. Now I am currently working at the big doors. I started by attaching the rings that I printed some time ago. Therefore, I drew a center line and marked the position of the rings. Then the rings were attahed. Because I don´t trust the glue, every singel ring was secured with four screws from the back. Next up, painting the doors and start installing the hardware.

Happy New Year to all of you! To hide the cables inside the neck section, I cut some wire frame into shape and attached it from the inside. Moreover, the wire frame was covered with black rubber foam. Now you cant see the cables inside and the black background will also intensify the light effect. Now two sections are done. Only two more to go. For convenient reasons, I temporarily detached the eye. Looks good so far. For the mid section, I started by painting the inside black. At the moment it looks a bit rough but it will be sanded later on and painted again. For some details I wanted to use cylinder head screws. Unfortunately, the ones with the right size are a bit too long. So I drilled holes into a wooden board and put the screws in. The thikness of the board will be the new lenght of the screw. Then I cut the screws down and attached them on the wooden parts of the mid section. Those parts are also already primed with some dispersion paint and sanded.

Thanks. Also Merry Christmas to you. (and all the other readers)

There is still some work left on the top part. First, I attached the lights and made sure they are in the same position as in the original Dalek. Then the eye part was installed. Now I just need to put a counter weight in the back of the head to get a better balance. So basically the head piece is done. Next up. I also painted the upper mid section in the same bronze tone. In addition, I installed the acrylic pieces and worked on the electric. I tried to make the cable management as nice as possible. I will make it so that you can not see the cables through this part. But I did not have the necessary parts on hand thats why I started working on the mid section again. I build all the details from wood and attached them directly to the mid section. Next up, I will close the gaps, sand, prime and paint this part. But the next update will be a bit delay because I am on christmas vacation right now.

This time it will be only a short update. Got some major problems on the paint job that took some time... But here we go. For the "nose/eye" part I needed to cut some acrylic into various discs. I sanded the surface down and glued them into place. Then I started to paint the heads part. Unfortunately I have not looked carefully enough when I was buying the color. I had syntetic one, but all my colors for weathering are acrylic based. To make it worse, I realized my mistake after I sprayed on the first layers. So I had to remove all the color... I went back to the good old methode of dabbing the acrylic color on by hand. Here you can see the result. I left the lines black to breack up the surface and to get more seperation. Now I only need to install the lamps and the "nose/eye" and the head is done.