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Stefan Ulrich

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Everything posted by Stefan Ulrich

  1. Interesting to see how the case will be included here. Looks like it will be only a 1 Player acrade? Or did you already thought about a button layout. 3, 6 or 8 Buttons?
  2. Ironknocker (Henning Wolters) from Germany for sure. Very talented guy.
  3. Thanks mate. Which "eye" do you mean. The one on the head part can move up and down.
  4. Thanks man! I made a short video, showing the functions of this Dalek casemod:
  5. Thanks man, actually I already build a TARDIS casemod last year ^^
  6. Now its time for the first bunch of the final pictures. But first of all I want to thank all the sponsors, that make such awesome events happen. Huge thanks to Thermaltake for having me participate in this contest. In addition to the pictures, I will also make a short making of video and show all the functions on the mod. So here we go with the pictures.
  7. So here is the last update before the final pictures. First of all I want to thank Gosumodz for providing some nice sleeves and cable management stuff for this build. I installed the hardware at this moment. Therefore, I screwed the motherboard tray in place. Before putting the mobo in, I installed the needed fittings for the watercooling. Then the water cooling loop was build. Most parts are build from acrylic pipes. Only on the backside and the middel section, I used flexible tubing. Next, the details for the main doors were painted gold. At the moment, I am finishing the cable management and will do some final touch ups. The final pictures will be uploaded on Monday then.
  8. Due to some space issues, I postponed the painting of the doors. INstead I also reworked the opening mechanism for the doors. Than this little fellow needed some color on him. Next up, I cut the neccesary part of the case into shape. In addition, I made a new backplate that will give stability to the graphics cards. The inside of the Dalek was covered with bronze foile. , Before installing the water tanks, I made some clamps that will tidely hold them. Then the water tanks were installed. I also put the PSU in place and attached it to the bottom plate. The hardware will be located on a little construction over the PSU. It is entirely made from wood. It will be covered with wooden boards that are covered with foile as well. Doing this, I already started to incorporate the water cooling and cable management parts.
  9. Yes, the PSU will power everything. The arduino will be connected with USB to the mainboard. The LEDs have resistors in front and will be connected to the 5V of the PSU. For the servos I will use an converter to get 7,4V from the 12V of the PSU. And up we go. Not much time left, so I need to a bit faster now haha. I painted the doors for the mid section in a bronze tone. The paint was dabbed on with a brush to achieve a rough looking surface. The details then were painted gold with an airbrush. Then I 3D printed a cover for the opening were the weapon and instruments are attached. In addition, the mounting mechanism for the door was reworked. Now I can easily take the door out and it is much stronger that way. So part 3 of 4 is done. The last details will be added at the end. Now I am currently working at the big doors. I started by attaching the rings that I printed some time ago. Therefore, I drew a center line and marked the position of the rings. Then the rings were attahed. Because I don´t trust the glue, every singel ring was secured with four screws from the back. Next up, painting the doors and start installing the hardware.
  10. Happy New Year to all of you! To hide the cables inside the neck section, I cut some wire frame into shape and attached it from the inside. Moreover, the wire frame was covered with black rubber foam. Now you cant see the cables inside and the black background will also intensify the light effect. Now two sections are done. Only two more to go. For convenient reasons, I temporarily detached the eye. Looks good so far. For the mid section, I started by painting the inside black. At the moment it looks a bit rough but it will be sanded later on and painted again. For some details I wanted to use cylinder head screws. Unfortunately, the ones with the right size are a bit too long. So I drilled holes into a wooden board and put the screws in. The thikness of the board will be the new lenght of the screw. Then I cut the screws down and attached them on the wooden parts of the mid section. Those parts are also already primed with some dispersion paint and sanded.
  11. Thanks. Also Merry Christmas to you. (and all the other readers)
  12. There is still some work left on the top part. First, I attached the lights and made sure they are in the same position as in the original Dalek. Then the eye part was installed. Now I just need to put a counter weight in the back of the head to get a better balance. So basically the head piece is done. Next up. I also painted the upper mid section in the same bronze tone. In addition, I installed the acrylic pieces and worked on the electric. I tried to make the cable management as nice as possible. I will make it so that you can not see the cables through this part. But I did not have the necessary parts on hand thats why I started working on the mid section again. I build all the details from wood and attached them directly to the mid section. Next up, I will close the gaps, sand, prime and paint this part. But the next update will be a bit delay because I am on christmas vacation right now.
  13. This time it will be only a short update. Got some major problems on the paint job that took some time... But here we go. For the "nose/eye" part I needed to cut some acrylic into various discs. I sanded the surface down and glued them into place. Then I started to paint the heads part. Unfortunately I have not looked carefully enough when I was buying the color. I had syntetic one, but all my colors for weathering are acrylic based. To make it worse, I realized my mistake after I sprayed on the first layers. So I had to remove all the color... I went back to the good old methode of dabbing the acrylic color on by hand. Here you can see the result. I left the lines black to breack up the surface and to get more seperation. Now I only need to install the lamps and the "nose/eye" and the head is done.
  14. Thanks mate. Best wishes also to you. Next on the list was the Head part now. First, I build the front part were the "nose" should be. The wooden parts were screwed in an the gaps were filled up. In addition all was primed with spray filler to see if any section needs some more attention. To make the head part moveable, small wheels were installed on the inside. In addition to the two wheel, I places an motor there that will move the head in both directions, left and right. To move the nose up and down, a servo was also installed. Looks a bit like a tank now haha. The two lamps were designed in 3d and than printed. I cut a piece of arcylic pipe and sanded it dull to refract the light later one. As in the original, the light should light up when the Dalek is speaking. I hooked up a microphone to an arduino and made a small sketch to achieve this. For the light itself, small LED stripes were soldered together and attached to a wooden stick that is places inside the lamp. The skecht for the arduino is written, that the LEDs will always shine at 20%. When a sound hits the microphone they will cnahge to 100%. Then the lamps were painted in a metalic tone. I also tried some weathering. I will continiue weathering when all parts are put together and painted.
  15. Thanks man! I always make two updates a week. Try to finish all my plans in time.
  16. At the end the Mod shloud also be movable, so I needed some kind of wheels on the bottom. I simply designed some. I also included a cogwheel that will be used for the motorization. Then the printing started. To get better grip to various surfaces, I cut stripes from craft foam and glued it on the wheels. The mounting was build from wood.But because the wheels will be directly connected to the motor they will not move without electricity. For this purpose I also installed some kind of special wheels that can be used to move the mod even without any electric power. I use some magnets to fold them in when not in use. In the front there is only one wheel. This gives the mod the most stability. The Dalek also got some kind of nose on the head part. This piece was 3d printed. I did a first round of sanding but there is still some work left. The inside is covered with a small acrylic lens. I put an led behind to get a glowing effect.
  17. Thanks to all! Here is another update. Next up, I made the basic construction of the top part. I took half of a styrofoam bowl and covered it with some glasfiber. There are some detail lines on this part in the original that I also wanted to reproduce. Therefore, I cut small stripes from craft foam and glued it into place. Then the hole body was covered with body filler. Then, I removed the craft foam. I got some nice looking and straight lines. The styrofoam was removed with some aceton. To make the top part holding to the part below, I glued round guiding rails inside the the bowl and ontop of the mid section. Now I can rotate the top part, but it will not fall down. I also will build and automatic rotation system later. I, put the parts together to see the final dimensions of the mod. It is about 1,15 meters high. Next up, I will work my way back from top to bottom. I will add all the details and moveable parts and make it ready for painting.
  18. Thanks man! Yeah, the circut itself is not very difficult bur the soldering takes some time. Could have done it with an adruino but i like it the "old" way more. And I can easily exchange some parts if necessary.
  19. So this weekend, I worked a bit on the light system for this section. I planned to build a running light effect here. I sorted all the necessary parts ans soldered the circut. To place the LEDs more inpedendently I already solderd all the resistors. There is some space left in the top right. Here I will ad another LED effect later. Speaking of LEDs, for this particular effect, I need 32 LEDs, so I attachd cables to every singel one. Then, I cut the acrylic parts for the light. Because every LED will be lighten up one section, I needed also 32 acrylic parts. After cutting all the parts were sanded down to refract the light later on. Then I glued the LEDs into place and made a first test if it fit. Also the running light was tested.
  20. Thank all for the amazing feedback. Will try to do my best for this mod I am kind of a night person so I dont need that much sleep *lol* As a next step, I started to work on the little highlight for the mid section. What makes a Dalek a real Dalek. Sure a Dalek I modeled a rought shape from newspaper and fixed it with masking tape. Then I tried out the positioning on the inside. A selfmade eye was also included. To get everything into shape, I used a very simple and cheap technique. Paper maché. I applied multiple layers to hide the structure of the newspaper. When it dried the entire model will be very strong but also light weight. In the mean time, I started the next section. First, I cut a round piece of wood and made a template for the structure, that should hold the round wooden beams on the outside and the acrylic glass pieces on the inside. Because I did not have wood in the right thickness on hand, I glued two pieces together. Than it was attached to the round plate. In addition, I cut out the top of the construction and installed the roound wood beams on the outside. Smaller gaps were filled with wood filler. I 3d printed small details, that I glued into place. For a more industrial kind of look, I used some screws. Next up will be the light system for this part and than I will make the basic structure of the "head"
  21. Thanks all. Sleep and food are for the weak To see he inside of the mid section, I needed to cut the glasfibre body in three pieces. To make them fit together after cutting, I wraped on side in masking tape and used bodyfiller to hide the Cutting line. That way you will not see a bit gap when this section is closed. Then, I primed the parts to check if some areas need more sanding or more filler. While the primer dried, I took the time to paint the doors and the bottom of the base section black. This will function as another layer of primer. I used dispersion paint because its cheaper than spray paint and with some care the results are the same. For some more details on the bottom edge, I drilled holes and installed some bolts. Then the edges were painted in a silver tone. And then back to the mid section. For the opening, I used the same mechanism as for the doors.
  22. To achieve more stability, I glued small wooden beams on the side of the mid construction. Then, I needed to make an inner construction were the top part can rest on. I cut some plywood into shape and screwed it into place. For an easier access while working on this part, and so save some weight, I cut away the unnecessary material. I also added the holes for the watercooling. Next, I figured out were to put the small water tanks for this section. I built a mountingsystem for them and attached it to the bottom plate. I marked the outline for the tubes and added a small wooden box. You will see later for what it will be used And here is a picture of the water cooling layout in this area.
  23. @mark310: haha I actually already built a TARDIS as a casemod. Wood can be a tricky matarial to work with but I am using 1mm and 1,2mm plywood so I dont worry about any stability issues. You just need to some kind of supportive structure.
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