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Timpelay

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About Timpelay

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    Just Getting Started

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    timpelay.se

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    Male
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    Sweden

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  1. My ambition with this project has been to try somethings that’s not been done before. The Thermaltake P5 is the perfect case for this mission as it’s extremely popular and been previously modded beyond recognition by other modders all over the world. Two key points were set up before the start of this project. • The P5´s original character should be kept. For me, this means doing a casemod were you easily can recognise the original case in the finished mod. • Transforming this case without doing what someone else already have done with it. This meant scanning as many P5 (a
  2. Final assembly! The best part when all parts come together and form what you have been working on for so long! There's much details to show but I will keep that to my final pictures! First start! How about we set som LEDs up See you at the finishline!
  3. The entire front of the case will be covered with opal - white back painted acrylic. A job that took me alot of time measuring and drawing the case and its components. I then laser cut all pieces after my drawings and had them painted. Here on the picture with the blue protection still on. I also decided to design the covers to be single cable passthroughs for all my sleeved cables. It will look tidy and minimalistic with short cables just entering the acrylic. The sponsored SSD from Plextor is a PCI-E version with integrated M.2 SSD. My layout makes the PCI-E SSD
  4. My second revision foot was printed in grey and needed a bit of surface treatment and black paint to keep up to the same level as the other parts. So the mounting procedure is done in a special way to get as stable and possible without any unessesary visual screws. I've attached a laser cut 4 mm thick acrylic ring to the bottom of the foot as the ball bearing turning plate builds approx 10 mm. Then I'll attach a second acrylic to the wooden plate/foot and countersink the turning plate a few mm into it for perfect fit.
  5. The back panel of the case will need a cut out in the same size as my mountain. This because I want to keep the chassi as slim as possible with the closes acrylic to fit in that space with the led strips. I printed the model on A3 sized paper and taped it together to get the proper outline. I attached it to the backside and used it to jiggsaw the right shape. Here we go! The radiator will still have like 75% direct air flow throughout the perforated section, But as the radiator will be fitted with a 40-50 mm gap all air will easily pass through the vents.
  6. There is often cool to do crazy tube routes with bends, pass-throughs and other stuff. But as this will be an art PC I decided to go for minimalism and actually use just 4 pipes for the entire run. With my modded CPU-block I can use the same parallell bends for the CPU and for the radiator. Full chrome for the CPU and accent black for the radiator. I also choose to use open 45 degrees to the rad which means I can fill at the highest point is nessesary. So satisfied with the good looking bends and the ease of water flow they will provide.
  7. More glue, more hours! And I've managed to make this: As I said before it's a kind of mountain canvas with surrounding. Removed the top layer protection but kept it on the "sky": So the sky will be painted and the 3D art backlit with TT Lumi Plus LED strips! For this I need to make mounts to the strips. I decided to offset my lines between the layers and cut acrylic pieces to glue my strips to. I dont know how good this will work as it's the first time ever I do something like this! But lets make it happen. Many ma
  8. With the foot/stand functional and ready it's timne to take this straw art serious and make something happen! I've got ~400 pipes to cut and glue to their mounting plates.. Just need to put in the hours! Bottom piece! Working my way up from the bottom. Quickly run out of glue so I'll be back
  9. Meanwhile, the work with my stand continues. I made some changes and tweaks to the 3D-model and added mounting holes for a turning plate. I will use a wooden base with a countersunk turningplate and some acrylic spacers for extra support. The finished mechanism. The foot will get a surface treatment and I will probably cut the wooden plate to a more interesting design. But it's good to have a lot of material to make the casemod steady.
  10. As some of you probably already noticed, the CPU block only mounts at one direction for AMD. But with the distro plate i want the connections turned 90 degrees. This means some modifications to the AMD mounting frame! I cut the end parts of just as much needed to rotate the mounts. Perfect polished reflection of the Steel Legend!
  11. Okey game on! I need to cut 400 pieces of pipe hehe.. I may be mad, but this will look epic when finished!
  12. I finally got to pull the trigger on a table saw. Until now I've used my jiggsaw to cut everything. It's good for figure cuts but not very effective on fast straight cuts. So I bought a DeWalt DW745 and a fine disc for acrylic! This to be able to make good cuts for windows etc. and also get the right size of pieces for my laser cutter. Works perfect! Back to actual modding and this is what I've been putting my hours into. I've tried different themes and patterns for my straw art and never got satisfied. I finally found a theme that I like! It will be a ki
  13. I've been spending alot of time thinking of changing hardware layout and finding a more appealing one. But working my way around I've come to the conclusion that I need to set the layout for best weight distibution. This actually means the original layout is a very good start. Allthough it cant stand by its own because it's to front heavy. I will change this by mounting the radiator on the inside and only fans facing forward. The backside will probably be heavy enogh with the acrylic sheets and the insane amount of pipes..
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