Core V51 Owner's Club

[ThermalMike 217]

I just purchased a Core V51 a couple of days ago from Newegg. Case is awesome!

Hopefully I'll have time to move my current components over to this new case this weekend.

No damage anywhere, not even the shipping box.

As long as the front control panel works I'll be a happy camper.

 

 I have a question, how do you mount an SSD or HDD on the right side of the case? There is no cage there.

 

Thermalman,

 

You take out the cage from the HDD rack and you can mount it on the back with the clips.

 

It take a min to figure out how it installs, just line up the bottom "hooks" and the top should latch in.

 

PM me if you need a pic or something

[ThermalMan 6]

Thanks ThermalMike, I know what you mean.

[ThermalMan 6]

What is the RPM rating for the black stock fans that come with this case?

 

Another question, the case allows for putting two drives in the back of the motherboard tray section,

so are the hd inserts from the cages supposed to be used for mechanical drives, or just put the mechanical drives directly into the mounting clips? 

 

I removed the double hd cage and replaced it with a triple hd cage.

Now hopefully I can move my components into this case very soon.

[ThermalMike 217]

Thermalman,

 

The built in fans run around 1000 RPM for front/rear.

 

For the HDD/SSD back panel installation, you can use (2) of the drive cages from the front to mount on the back side panels.

 

There is also SSD mounting holes on the back of the motherboard section for additional drives as well.

 

You should be able to see the mount holes, but just note for mechanical drives, you have to use the cages and the (2) locations for those.

[FlydPuls 0]

Hi all, I bought the Core v51 and love it and I installed the Aerocool Touch-R but am having a tough time getting it to mount with the 5.25" quick connects. It has two small screw holes and I'm having trouble getting it stationary in the 5.25" bay. I bought some adapter plates from caselabs that I thought might work, but they don't allow the controller to stick out far enough. Anyone have any experience mounting something like this in our case or have any ideas? I was thinking to just replace the quick 5.25" bay with an old standard kind so I can just screw this in the old fashioned way, but I'm not even sure that will mount...

 

UPDATE: I'm an idiot, those quick connects pop off really easily and then you can just screw in through the holes and leave the quick connect off the bay. Or if you want to keep it on there for looks, you can just cut the little plastic rods and snap the plastic piece back onto the bay.

[ThermalMan 6]

Finally finished rebuilding my computer, and it seems to run cooler now.  Case is worth every penny.  I love the look of the case!

 

But there are a couple of idiosyncrasies with this case (for me anyway) -

 

If fans are mounted on the front outside case frame and one or more go bad you'll have to remove one or more HD cages to replace the bad ones.
I put mine between the front frame and the HD cages. I am using two '3 HD cages' for six drives total.

 

If the cages are used and you want to mount drives in the back of the case the #### screws get in the way.

 

The DVD sits about 1/4" back from the fascia.  But it looks nice anyway.

 

 

I recommend that in the back of the case there should be a few more cable ties locations.

 

[ThermalMike 217]

Thermalman,

 

Can you send me a pic?

 

"If the cages are used and you want to mount drives in the back of the case the #### screws get in the way."

[ThermalMan 6]

Thermalman,

 

Can you send me a pic?

 

"If the cages are used and you want to mount drives in the back of the case the #### screws get in the way."

 

A picture of what exactly?

[ThermalMike 217]

A picture of what exactly?

 

I already checked with a sample here.

 

What I wanted to see was how your HDD tray looked when trying to mount on the back with the screws from the front cage.

[charles4691 0]

Hi ! I have a question about the Core V51..I have a EK 240 Predator AIO ,and it won't fit in my current case .My question is

would the Core V51 be able to house the EK 240 Predator ? It is 295x133x68mm  any help with this would be greatly appreciated

[BabaLament 5]

Hello all!

 

V51 build-in-progress. Took this photo last night; but I've made a couple of changes today. Waiting a day or two to determine if I want to change things around, or keep it as-is.

 

Current Build:

 

Thermaltake V51 Chassis

Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1w/ both motherboard cooling fans installed*

Intel Core i7 4790

32GB Corsair Vengeance 1866 DDR3

2x EVGA GTX 980 SC w/ ACX 2.0 & Backplate GPU's & EVGA Pro 2-Way SLI Bridge (Version 2)

Corsair AX 1200 PSU

Corsair H110 CPU Cooler

Corsair Vengeance RAM Cooling Fan

(As Shown) NZXT Sentry 2 Fan Controller (Currently Installed - Thermaltake Touchscreen Fan Controller**)

Asus Blue-Ray RE-Writer

256 GB Samsung 850 Pro Solid State Drive (OS Drive)

Western Digital Black 4TB 7200 RPM Mechanical Hard Drive (Data Drive)

3x Thermaltake 140mm RGB case fans (two front intake, one rear exhaust)

3x Thermaltake 120mm RGB case fans (two bottom intake, one top exhaust)

NZXT White LED Strip***

 

*The smaller of the two motherboard cooling fans did NOT come with mounting screws from Asus. Probably overlooked during packaging; it happens. Luckily, the extra screws from the Thermaltake RGB fans were threaded exactly the same (or close enough that I couldn't tell the difference). The only issue was screw length. To address this, I used a pair of insulating rings, and a 10-12 AWG AMP crimp as a standoff. Fits perfectly, and doesn't look shabby. Obviously, would have preferred factory screws, but for want of a nail...

 

**Thermaltake RGB fans are not compatible with the touchscreen fan controller. Right now it's sole purpose is to serve as a temperature probe. Honestly, the NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller would serve better at this function (five separate thermal probes instead of the Thermaltake controller's single temperature probe), but the Thermaltake fan controller is more responsive & looks better with my color scheme.

 

***I don't leave this on all the time; its only used when taking pictures of the internals.

 

My internal temperatures when idle stay around 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit). During marathon gaming sessions (Heroes Of The Storm, Star Wars: The Old Republic, Total War: Arena, etc.) my temp's have yet to go above 32 degrees Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit). Very happy with the thermal performance of this chassis setup.

 

My gripe(s), if you can call them that, are few:

 

I would love for the Power button LED to be variable; as much as I love blue, I would prefer green case lighting. However, my OCD won't allow it; if I'm going to have once blue light that I can't change, then they're all going to be blue. The clash between the blue case lighting and my green keyboard, mouse, and headphone lighting (Razer, nat.) ...*twitch*... yeah, it irritates me.

 

The Thermaltake RGB fans look great, and are virtually silent. The control hub that comes with them is ok; but I would have liked them to be compatible with a touchscreen fan controller. As it stands, with cord length limitations, the controllers are mounted inside the case; so I can't change colors or speeds without taking off the viewing window.  

 

Another issue isn't strictly chassis-related, but it irks me all the same. I would love to put another set of 140mm fans on my radiator to set up a push/pull configuration across the radiator. Unfortunately the fans won't fit because of the "thermal armor" on the motherboard, and there's a bit of interference from the RAM cooling fan. If the motherboard were mounted a quarter inch lower on the chassis, it would be possible... *music* "You can't always get what you want..."

 

My final gripe is the inability of this case to support two EVGA GTX Hybrid GPU's. I like the idea of liquid cooling my GPU's, but I don't have enough faith in my tube-bending & fitting make-up skill to do a "real" liquid cooling rig. That's why I picked the Corsair self-contained CPU cooler. I saw the closed-loop liquid cooled GPU's and was ready to buy, until I realized that the V51 chassis would only support one of them. The 120mm fan/radiator from a single GPU would fit the rear/exhaust fan location, but putting a second one in for SLI isn't possible; the hoses won't reach far enough to clear the PSU & associated cables; leaving me SOL.

 

I've also rotated the rear exhaust fan so that the power cable doesn't reach across the GPU backplate. Clean & organized is the goal, even if it isn't always reached.

 

That's it! Let me know of any thoughts, ideas, or random musings you might have. Looking forward to seeing others builds & mods!

[Eorlingas 0]

Hey all, Core v51 user here and I have a question:

How do I actually take out the bottom 3 drive drawers, that are seperate from the top two?

I'm only using the top two for my HDD and SSD, andI think that taking out the bottom ones would open my chassis up even more.

I managed to get the two back screws out, but the front screws, those that are infront of the mobo, simply refuse to come out.

Tried everything... with fingers, with screwdrivers, even with a (non cutter) plyer, but it simply won't move.

Any tips, please?

[BabaLament 5]

Hello all!

 

Eorlingas, if you look at my picture above, I did exactly what you want to do. I'm only using two drives, a SSD boot drive & mechanical data drive, and had a similar problem. The thumbscrews on the back of the chassis came out with no problem, but the threads on the internal thumbscrews were severely cross threaded, to the point they would free-spin (not go in/out). In the end I had to force them out with a pair of vice grips, which completely stripped the threads off of the thumbscrews. I drilled out the holes & re-threaded them using an electric drill (DeWalt makes a great cordlesss with a rotating handle so it can be held like a traditional drill, or held straight, like a screwdriver) and threading bit, and a set of fresh thumb screws in a slightly larger size.

 

Hopefully you can get yours out with a little elbow grease (and maybe some WD-40 to help things along), but if not, those screws are going to need a bit of tough love.

[BabaLament 5]

Hi guys! After some cable management adjustments, new fans, and swap from the NZXT fan controller to a Thermaltake fan controller, this is my current/final V51 configuration.

 

The only remaining item(s) to swap out are:

 

The Power Supply: I'm going to go from the Corsair 1200AX to the Tt Toughpower DPS G RGB 1250w (provided I can find somebody that has one in stock).

 

--- EDITED 2/4/16 ---

 

The CPU & GPU Cooling: Part order is in, going DIY with Tt PR 22-D5 w/ Silent Kit Pump/Reservoir combo, W2 CPU Waterblock, 2x EVGA GTX 980 Hydro Copper GPU Waterblock(s), T22 Reservoir, 2x RL 280 Radiators, & enough fittings & tubing to re-plumb Flint, Michigan.

 

The fan controller (again): Tt released the Commander F6 RGB controller, which (after some help from Mike Fierheller (AKA: ThermalMike) can be made compatible with Riing RGB fans after a bit of a work-around. The Riing RGB fans are 4-pin fans that connect to the Riing RGB Fan Controller (comes packaged with the fans, supports 3 fans). This mini-controller has a 3-pin power connection. To get the whole setup working, I have three of the 4-pin fans connected to a single mini-controller, and the mini-controller 3-pin power cable connected to the 3-pin fan connector on the Commander F6. Using the dial on the front of the Commander F6 Fan Controller, I can turn up the voltage, and get the fans running.

 

I have some reservations with this setup. While the Commander F6 is designed to push six fans worth of output power, Its supposed to do so down six individually regulated paths. I'm pushing three times the power down a single path; and even though its holding up so far, I'm wary of how long my luck will last. I'm tempted to pull the Commander F6 out of my case, set up a bench, and torture test the thing using 3 RGB Riing fans off each of the six channels; see how many of the 18 fans I can get going, and for how long.

 

 

So, for now, this is it. Thoughts, musings, ideas for improvement, and comments welcome!

[BabaLament 5]

Hello all!

 

My DIY liquid cooling parts came in Friday, and I've been busily putting things together ever since. First thing was to cut all of the wire-management zip ties, disconnect, and remove as many cables and wires as I could. Then I removed the 2x HDD Cage from the chassis, and moved the hard drives to the right side of the  case (cable management area). The tool-less snap-in feature works quite well, but the clearance on the bottom of the lower hard drive is *extremely* tight. There is no access to that SATA/Power connection whatsoever. The upper hard drive is an SSD, and it went in like a champ; no wire guidance issues or tolerance concerns. However, the mounting supports for the P22+D5 Reservoir have a screw that must fit at the lower-right corner of the hard drive cage swap-tray. Since I have my SSD mounted to the other side of the tray, it was no big deal to snap off the lower-right corner of the plastic, and make room for the bracket screw. However, for anyone using a mechanical hard drive, this would not be possible.

 

The RL280 reservoir mounted to the top of the chassis easily. However, the fan screws are a tad short. I understand they're supposed to be tight to minimize vibration; but I'd feel more comfortable if they screwed into the radiator with a bit more room for error. Also, due to space constraints, I had to give up my Corsair Vengeance RAM fan. I have another 280mm radiator for the front mounting location if necessary. I want to check what my heat loading looks like with one before I decide to cram the case with even more gear.

 

Pump mounting feet went in just fine. The vibration mounts are a nice touch, but the location only supports #### down two of the feet. This is mitigated by also having the to reservoir arms attached; and things don't move around even when given a solid shake. To mount the pump I had to give up my optical drive, the bottom dust screen, and my two bottom 120mm intake fans.

 

I may have gone a little nuts with the fittings; but I like the chrome/black look, and wanted to keep my tube bends neat & clean. Once my external power supply (to provide pump power during fill & vent) arrives I'll be able to leak check and ensure proper makeup. Everything feels tight at the moment except for the 90-degree fitting at the intake of the lower GPU; for some reason that one feels tight, and I can see the o-ring is compressed; I just have a funny feeling about it.

 

The random piece of tube on top of my PSU is there to provide structural support for the lower GPU. Swapping from the EVGA ACX 2.0 GPU coolers to the EVGA Hydro Copper water blocks was easy (just follow the directions), the weight doesn't seem distributed evenly. The top GPU seated just fine, hanging where it should, just like before. For whatever reason, the lower GPU appears "crooked", as though the weight of the water block is causing the GPU to bend. It looked this way before & after fittings/tube were attached. So, rather than risk damage, I stuck a piece of excess tube underneath to take some of the weight off of the motherboard/PCI socket. I'll see how it holds up; if anything starts acting funny I'll have to regroup.

 

The W2 CPU water block when in like a champ. In was the most stressful part of the task, since I previously had a Corsair H110 installed. Getting the old cooler out of the way, cleaning up the thermal compound, applying new thermal compound; easily the most stressful part of the task thus far. I swapped out the orange Tt logo for a white one; since it the color will match the EVGA SLI bridge & GPU lights.

 

That's it so far. Once the test power supply arrives I can start filling, leak checking, and (finally) get back into some gaming!

 

As always, I'm open to questions, comments, or concerns. Any advice for a first-timer would be appreciated as well.

 

--- EDITED 2/9/2016 ---

 

...I put the other 280mm radiator in. The cooling loop now goes Reservoir -> Pump -> Radiator 1 -> Radiator 2 -> CPU -> GPU 1 -> GPU2 -> Reservoir. I also added a pair of cutoff valves to the GPU 2-to-Reservoir line & the pump output. This will allow me to isolate flow at the lowest points to facilitate draining. I also installed a tubing stubby at the top of the reservoir with a pressure relief valve; so that the reservoir won't pull vacuum on itself during cool down (thus unintentionally shattering). The pressure relief fitting came with a separate reservoir, not the pump/reservoir combo kit; not sure if that's oversight, or if I need the thing at all. Want not, waste not.

 

[BabaLament 5]

Finished product. Fill & vent went perfectly fine, no leaks at all. Temps holding around 26 degrees Celsius idle, 30-32 Celsius gaming. Incredibly quiet, even with the 6 fans (2x 140mm front, 2x 140mm top, 1x 140mm rear, 1x 140mm PSU, 2x 20mm MB fans) & pump running. Extremely pleased with the end result. The only item that was an unexpected snag was the necessity to disable my CPU fan monitoring in BIOS. The W2 water block is plugged into the CPU fan connection for power, but (obviously) doesn't have RPM data to keep the MB happy. Disabled & done with.

 

Hope you enjoyed the build/change/mod saga! Please leave feedback & ideas!

[pcdocstl 1]

Add me to the list of owners as I just got this one together enough for overclocking / testing. I had 2 prerequisites for the case on this new build, It must be able to handle both a 280 and 420 radiator and keep them COOL as I had to remove my 2 burning 780 lightnings' from my former gaming PC in an NZXT H440, and more importantly it had to be green! I almost purchased a competitors' case until Thermaltake released the Riing series at just the right time and was exactly what I was looking for. Still not sure what I'll end up doing with the remaining internal top / rear fan(s), was planning on doing the same as the front but will probably modify the installation slightly. It was almost impossible to wrap that stuff around the fans and get a straight shot to the bolt holes when attempting to secure it! One thing about this particular Riing version of the v51 is the green tinted window, it's TOO green and actually makes it harder to see inside since it makes everything green and kind of blurry. I've looked everywhere for a clear side panel / window with no luck. Does anyone know if any of the clear side panel / windows available in the Thermaltake store are identical or close?

 

 

 

[Cyber2191 0]

Hey all new to the forum and to watercooling
I was thinking about getting one of the ekwb kits, and more specifically was looking at the xtreme kit. I know the rad that it comes with is 60mm, and I know i could mount it as an intake but I personally would rather have it on top, but it is a massive rad. So my question is, anyone with the thermaltake core v51 case have you used the ekwb xtreme kits or any for that matter, and is a 60mm rad going to fit on the top with fans attached. Pictures are always nice if you have any by the way lol

But yeah I just built my first computer this past February and it was a success and am very happy with it (just waiting on these new nvidia gpus to release lol, and hardware wise it will be a complete computer), now I'm interested in custom loops, so any tips tricks whatever, always willing to learn from people more experienced

[SimondsUnchaind 4]

Is there a way to get the Power Cover for the Thermaltake Core V51? anyone seen one listed online anywhere?

[ThermalMike 217]

Is there a way to get the Power Cover for the Thermaltake Core V51? anyone seen one listed online anywhere?

 

Contact our support here in the USA if you are in the region, we can quote you for the cover.

 

Info in Sig

 

-Mike

[Ghostlight 0]

Hi All,

 

I'm planning on building a gaming PC with the Core V51 chassis and need a little help regarding it.

My local retailer has two different V51 chassis in-stock, both advertised as windowed chassis, but has different product codes.

One is CA-1C6-00M1NN-00 and the other is CA-1C6-00M1WN-00.

 

Can you tell me what is the difference between the two chassis?

As I recall, there are only three variants of the chassis: the Riing Edition (00M8WN-00), the standard V51 (00M1WN-00 with no info of whatsoever on if there is a non-windowed version or not) and the Power Cover version (00M1WN-02).

 

All help is appreciated!

Have a nice one,

GL

[Syed.m.abubaker 0]

Hi

 

Will the 326mm tubing of a Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate be able to reach the front panel of tt core v51 because i want to install 2x200mm fans at the top.

 

Thanks

[Ardox 0]

Hi,

I just ordered a V51 and would like to replace the side window with a tempered glass one if possible. I can only seem to find a window for the P3, will this one fit the V51? If not, can anyone tell me if this is even possible to find?

Thanks.

[radar 0]

Hi all,

Does anyone know when the V51 Tempered Glass Edition will be available for sale? 

Also, I'm considering using either a Corsair X115i, NZXT Kraken x62, or Swiftech H220 X2 Prestige.  Does anyone have experience with any of these coolers?

 

Thanks, radar

[FlyingSailor 0]

Hello Core V51 Owners,

I'm looking at this case (top of my list) and have a clearance/room question before I hit the "buy" button.

The plan is to put a Tt Water 3.0 Ultimate in the top. Is there enough room, with that mounted, to allow for a 120mm radiator and fan mounted inside the case, at the rear 120mm exhaust? Specifically I'd like to mount an EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid cooler there, and am curious if it will interfere with the Water 3.0 radiator hoses.

As a quick follow-on to that. If there is room, would there still be room running the Water 3.0 with 3 additional fans in push/pull?

Thanks!