ThermalMike

Hi, make sure the connection is secured into the controller. If you are using the link cable, try using the other cable from the Y cable that goes to the header. If both of them are not showing detection (Since you got the dip switch setup right) try using just controller #2 only and see if it works by itself. Could be bad controller or just a loose connection. Also, when you have the system on, unplug the power to the 2nd controller and reconnect it and see if it just shows up. If it does, check your bios setting for any power save features the MB offers in the bios and disable them. contact us here for warranty if you need to swap the controller: http://www.thermaltake.com/corporate.aspx?t=4

Hi, The ports are plug and play,but you want to check the connection to the motherboard for the USB 3.0 header. If the MB has 2 of them, try the other one? You either have a bad cable or the port on the MB is dead or disabled, check the bios and test the MB port to confirm.

Hi, When making the change to the color or mode, it will only reflect on the devices connected to that controller you are on at that time. Once you click save and the other controller is set to the same profile, it should sync up all together. Take note you may want to use "coipy color" for the other devices except #1 so they all match. As for the issue you are experiencing, I am not sure it is an issue, let us know if you need any further assistance. Will work on some more videos to update everyone as well, I have been wanting to do a refresh soon for everyone.

Hi, Thank you for the video. This sound can be normal when first using the AIO. Since it is a closed loop design, it should settle over time, there also might be some air stuck in the pump. Shift the case around while the pump is on, tilt it to one side and so on for a bit and let it work everything out. I apologize for the delay with my reply, maybe is it better now, but does not sound faulty at all imo.

Hi, Sorry for the delay, back from CES and traveling. 1. You will get the error (Red Controller number) when one or more ports are vacant, all you have to do is turn off that port and the red will go away, it is just a warning to let you know if something is not detected. 2. When setting up the LED profiles, you will only see the fans on that controller you are working on change right away, once you click save and the other controllers are set to the same profile, they will then all match up to be the same. Also take note if you want them all the same, set "Copy Color" on all the other fans except #1 to make it easy. 3. For the strobe issue, try swapping around the fans to other ports and see if the issue is with the fan or the controller ports to narrow it down. Depending on the mode you may get some variables on the lighting, but it should not be too bad. Make sure all the settings are setup for the lighting and the fans are all sync'd

Hello, Sorry for the delay, CES and all that. Yes, we list the PSU cover to support F31 and it will fit in the View 31 as well, but we have been out of stock. Check around if you can still find it, Part Number: CM00137 When you use this with the View 31, the Vertical GPU mounting will be tight, but it is possible.

Hi Duluth, Apologize for the delay with my reply, since you are located in the USA, please contact our USA support so we can setup an RMA to swap it out. Please also let them know about the situation and talking with me so we can help test prior to sending out. If there is any update, please let our support know. https://thermaltakeusa.zendesk.com/hc/en-us

Hello, You will need to contact our support to get a replacement controller. Since you are using Ryzen and this controller may be the original design (Prior to Ryzen launch) where you need a new controller to get it to work. All you need is to swap out the controller. This is a compatibility issue due to design changes beyond our control. You could use a USB to micro USB cable and connect it to another PC, install the software and setup your fans for the time being, lights and all that and it will save the settings, you will just not be able to make the changes on the Ryzen PC until you get the updated controller. You can contact our support for warranty here for your region: http://www.thermaltake.com/corporate.aspx?t=4

Hi, Yes, you can use the daisy chain cable or just use the other USB coming off the Y cable for the second controller. Some things to try: 1. Try each controller by itself, make sure they both work standalone. 2. Double check the cable connections are all properly seated. 3. For the wiring you can remove the sleeve protection if you want to slim up the cable routing. (Have done this when using A LOT of fans in a case) 4. When you power up the system, if you get no detection initially, unplug the power cable from the controller, wait a bit, then reconnect. See if the fans are detected. 5. If the controllers/fans cannot detect, take a USB to micro USB cable (Like for your phone) and plug the USB into the back of the MB i/O USB and the micro to the controller. See if you get detection then, if so something could be up with the USB header, like a power save feature or initial boot up delay. (Have seen some new things showing up) Please also help list some system specs, your OS version and the Riing Plus Software version you are running. Make sure you have the lastest 1.1.4 off our website. (Shows version in bottom right corner on the software)

Hi, Great to hear, hopefully you are solid now on the fans. As for the molex connection, it secures more than SATA can lock wise and we are looking into other options going forward following the trends of PSU connections. When you consider the fan power + the RGB LED power it is more than your typical fan with the added features you get, 12V and 5V are used for these operations. It also saves the hassle of having 2 separate wires off the fan and requiring the fans to be also connected to the MB like some of our competitors.

Hi, Did you set the DIP switch on that 2nd controller so they are not both on #1 (Default) If the controller is not detected, you likely have a loose connection, could have been when you secured all the wires in the case to close it up. What corsair product are you using? how you like the wire management? I have a hard time looking at those double wires coming off and the added controllers you have to BUY

Hi, Seems like that is possible. You have seen it work and know how to connect it, you either have a loose connection somewhere or wires when they got pushed back into the case causes something. Make sure you dont have any weird setting for the USB headers to reduce power (New MB have this now). Maybe a windows update or something, hard to say, but it is working i know that much ^^

Hi, Issue has been solved with software updates and revision of the controller. This was due to the IC AMD changed moving to ryzen and the Riing Plus was already out at the time. If you have any issue, just have them contact our TT Support. http://www.thermaltake.com/corporate.aspx?t=4

Hi, Cable routing will be a challenge, it might look like it will fit on paper, but wait till you get it in there, you will see. Sorry I dont have one to give you a photo, just take caution on the uphill road ahead if you plan to do that.

Hi, It would fit, but you would suffer for the pass throughs for the 24-pin cable and SATA and all that. You can also wrap them around to the other side holes, but that is really not the purpose. The P90 is a different type of case and it is already pretty big

Hello, Sorry I cannot download videos directly, you can upload it here or link it on you tube or something to view only.

Hi, Hello, if you are the original owner and have a copy of your receipt for the purchase of the P3, then yes you can submit for the free cable. Please just follow the template

Hello, PM me the email address you used to contact us and I will have them check to see if they received and try to help.

Hi, I do not have a digital copy of the manual on me, but it is in there if you maybe kept the box? The screws have threads on both sides, one side shorter than the other and the shorter side screw thread is bigger. You just screw the short end into the MB side then drop on the block, use the white washers and then the thrumb screws to secure it down. If you need further help, I will try to dig one up or take a picture of one here.

Hi, Opening for the first time from the factory can be kind of tight, on this case, you might need to remove the front first, please check, I am sorry I dont have one around atm to check. Normally just grab from the back and lift up quick, should pop right off.

Hi, Suggest to mark out or blur the email man for security, using Snipping tool is great for this. So when you click login what happens? Did you get any email from us after registering? Also, try to go login to the website version and see if that works. http://dps.thermaltake.com/en

Hi, Nice question! With the X5 since it is capable of being stacked with another case, the options are for all possibilities. If you are using just one case, your PSU has to go somewhere, but if you had another one on top/bottom you do get the option to do other things when sharing the components in multiple case. Hope this clears it up ^^

Hi, For the Riing Plus fans only, the controller supports 5-ports, we sell them in Singles, 3-packs and 5-packs. With the Riing Plus products, you can sync them all together with the link cable and they can all do the same thing, or something individually. You can also connect up the pump and save space with less controllers too since they have 5 ports on them. You just need to select the correct product in the software according to the port you place the product on if it is fans, pumps, blocks or LED strips

Hi, The X299 socket is 2066 so the W1 supports it with the other hardware that was originally included in the box. No backplate, just like X99, just need the other screws that go directly into the 4 threads on the socket and basically the same hardware for everything else.

Ahh ok cool, yea you should be fine