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Eatsrootsnleaves

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About Eatsrootsnleaves

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  1. Its been awhile since I updated this, a bunch of problems and a major side project has kept me busy. Seems that even with the 25Amp DC to DC converter the peak currents with all RGB hitting white overloaded it and then the controllers had a hissy fit. As to the TT controllers I've had a good play with them and decided they need to be redesigned. Internally the uP in the controller is powered by a 3.3 volt low voltage dropout linear regulator and this gets its power from the 5 volt rail of the PC. It's just not good enough the power on the 5v rail us not great at best on a cheap power
  2. This looks quite interesting, the TT RGB Plus software has driven me partially insane so I'm keen to give yours a go. Latest update to TT RGB plus hasn't fixed the major profile bugs and quite frankly it's all over the place As I'm running 5 controllers and 25 devices I might make a good test candidate. 11 x Riing fans, 3 x Trio fans, PR22-D5 Plus pump, Pacific RGB Plus fitting set, 12 way and 8 way Strimer leads, Custom ARGB CPU, GPU and motherboard strips. Any suggestions on where to start, should I try the beta or go straight for the latest version?
  3. I have found the air flow on the Level 20 GT plus to be excellent. Air gaps exist around all of the glass panels and the 200mm fans move so much air even at low speed. The only thing against it is the mesh panels behind the glass get sucked onto the fans and create a huge restriction so they may need to be removed.
  4. Yep I get this also. Seagate Barracuda pro 6TB on a Gigabyte Aorus Master MB. Rest of the specs on my build blog here. Sounds so bad I initially thought the HDD had failed., as it makes a similar sound. Closing the app and or tray icon doesnt stop it but closing the exe in task manager does. Totally unusable in its present state. Also the longer you leave it running the polling gets louder and sounds really horrible. I agree that it doesnt need to poll the HDD and the only interaction I can see between the app and the HDD is for recording which is off by default.
  5. Part Three Filling, testing etc Currently being edited!! I dont like replying to my own post as it feels like Im talking to myself and I do that enough as it is but its the only easy way to manage this blog. Well its now most of a water cooled PC, bit to go yet. Best part of all not one leak inside the case, only 1 incident underneath with a loose extension creating a slow desk flood but other than that all good. System filled with distilled water and has run for 2 days....but its not that easy, never is. Had to run a set of fans as the pump and its RGB light
  6. Progress Update Construction continues.... As can be seen there has been progress. RGB levels have reached insanity which is what I was going for. Motherboard is now fitted with CPU and block, Strimmer's fitted (they are a real pain to route) and GPU on block mounted to riser cable and mounts. A spare trio fan was added to the back for additional air output. Running it off a test power supply (which is screaming under the load LOL) as there is no cooling yet so no MB lighting just yet. Plumbing started but need more fittings and need to make a better bending jig.
  7. PART TWO Water Cooling Design Concept After a lot of research I decided that the D5 pump had all the grunt I should need and the Pacific PR22-D5 Plus pump suited my needs perfectly. D5 pumps aren't cheap so a single loop will do for my first WC project but it will be a long one. Decided on two 360x25mm copper core brass tank radiators from ebay, at AUD$56 each.....bargain! Edit: While getting them from ebay as I wanted to mod them suited my needs I wouldnt recommend it. The overall quality of the radiators isnt bad but be prepared for an excessive flushing experience
  8. The old rig with Z97 and i5 4690K running AIO cooler was getting a bit dated at 4 years old. As I dont know how long the AIO cooler will last and VR is pushing the 4690K a bit it was time for an upgrade. Walked into Centercom and there is the Level 20 GT plus sitting on the floor in front of me in a very big box. The 200mm ARGB fans got me, as its such a nice case thought I might as well go all out with ARGB everywhere and its perfect for my first open loop which might as well be nuts as well. What to stick in it took a bit of research and based on price and availability ended
  9. Thats a nice little board, I assume there is some flavour of uP on the other side. Wouldnt mind one of those also. Anyway to answer your question my probing around revealed that its common 5V not 12V thats used in the RGB fittings so I wouldnt put them directly into a motherboard. Attached sketch says it all really. Hope this helps. Detail of RGB controller for 4 wire fittings, non addressable. Edit: Didnt know there was Pacific RGB Fittings and Pacific RGB Plus Fittings (4 Wire RGB and 3 Wire addressable respectively) so here's info on the addressable controlle
  10. I almost went the XT but thought the GT would give me more room. Not so sure now and running out of room quickly. Loved the 200mm fans so much I have 2 more on top. 2 x 30mm rads both with 3 x Riing 12+ fans, another 2x Riing 12 Trio fans on the bottem for exhaust plus the Riing 14+ rear exhaust....total of 13 Riing fans. Ignore the Wild Turkey GTX1080Ti GPU its only there for sizing.
  11. The ARGB controller supplied with the Riing plus12 3 pack I purchased is faulty. Have to twist the power connector to get it to work at all. Diassembly and inspection of the power connector shows poor soldering but it turns out this wasnt the problem. The black plastic part of the power connector slides forward when you unplug it. See pics. Simply pushing it back down the pins with your thumbnail solves the problem. This can be done without disassembly. This rendition of the controller has no molded port numbers on the back as prevoius models do with a board revision
  12. Adapter lead is available on ebay to resolve this problem. I feel that TT should have included this lead with the case though for comparibility with current motherboards.
  13. I opted for the Level 20 GT Plus for a new RGB WC rig as the 200mm fans look great. Seems to be missing the magical USB 3.1 gen2 lead also, not to modern then. This I will need to modify. Had issues choosing best TT supply to match the case and went for the iRGB 1200 as I couldnt get the 1050 pictured. Still not sure if its the best choice RGB wise. Needs a list of recommended supplies. Grill behind front glass is to flimsy and close to the massive fans so gets sucked to the front of fans. Fan output reduces by 50% like this. With front off one fan spindle moves forward a
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