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  1. I recently bought 3 Thermaltake Riing12 RGB fans and have installed them and they work and look great, however I was wondering if there was any way I could sync the RGBs on these fans to the ones on my motherboard header. My motherboard is a Gigabyte Z270 Ultra Gaming and has a 5-pin RGBW header on it, currently using a Phanteks RGB adapter to connect a LEDMO LED strip to my case. I was wondering if there was any way for me to sync the RGB fans to the RGBs on my motherboard, and the ones currently in my case? The RGB controller included with the fans uses a 4-pin fan header, from what I can tell. Would it break anything if I were to try and connect this to the 5-pin RGBW header on my motherboard? Or connect it to the spare end of the Phanteks adapter I have, would either of these work and if not, what would?
  2. Please Help! I have a problem on the TT Level 20 RGB Gaming mouse. I updated the firmware then my pc suddenly go bluescreen and restarted and the update to the firmware did not finished, afterwards the mouse didn't work anymore totally not functioning. Can you please help me will really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
  3. Hello everyone, I've just finished my latest project of fixing the old Thermaltake Riing RGB Fans, because I was quite unsatisfied with them out of the box, not remembering the color settings. So I have decided to create an software controlled solution for them using basic components, which were quite cheap. If you want to see how it looks, check out this Video, where I have started and stopped the controlling software, loading the settings from the config file: YouTube Video Note: I am not responsible for breaking any of your parts if you try to rebuild this neither for guranteeing its going to work. This is a quite uncomplete Guide at the Moment and will get expanded if there is an demand. To fix that I've got an GPIO Breakout by Adafruit for USB and attached the Riing RGB Controllers to it using the Extension Port using these JST Cables from Ebay. I was pretty quick at reverse engineering their protocol, which isn't more than applying voltage to trigger a button press, in the case the state LOW on the GPIOs. If you get the exact same cables, then the wiring is the following: White Wire - Mode Switch Red Wire - Start/Stop Switch Black Wire - Speed Switch Hooking them up to the GPIO Breakout is quite easy, but the C3 pin didnt work well for me on my 4th Controller, as it seemed to be LOW from the start. On the software side I have used the python libraries by Adafruit for making an simple wrapper for triggering the buttons by pin id. I have coded an NodeJS Service for controlling the Colors after that, which is quite basic at the moment and doesn't features an user interface yet. The settings are stored in a config file and loaded on boot and stored on shutdown/reboot. If you are interested in obtaining the software, feel free to drop me an PM and I will give you instructions on how to install it. spyfly
  4. My old rig with Z97 and i5 4690K running AIO cooler was getting a bit dated at 4 years old. As I don't know how long the AIO cooler will last and VR is pushing the 4690K a bit it was time for an upgrade. Walked into Centercom and there is the Level 20 GT plus sitting on the floor in front of me in a very big box. The 200mm ARGB fans got me, as its such a nice case thought I might as well go all out with ARGB everywhere and its perfect for my first open loop which might as well be nuts as well. Scroll straight to the bottom of this blog for the finished product. What to stick in it took a bit of research and based on price and availability ended up with this: 2 x 360x25mm copper/brass radiators from ebay 6x Riing Plus 12 fans for the radiators Another 2x 200mm Riing Plus 20 fans for the top of the case 3x Riing Trio 12 fans for the bottom of the case and 1 out the side TT Gaming riser cable PCI-E 3.0 X16 200mm Pacific PR22-D5 Plus pump Pacific RGB Plus Hard tube fitting set Pacific RGB Hard tube fitting set Pacific TF1 Flow/temp sensor Pacific Flow Indicator 2 iRGB Plus 1200W Power Supply TT Ice blue and Acid green concentrates 2 litres of TT clear coolant Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master motherboard Gigabyte Aorus 16Gb RGB memory kit TT Toughram RGB 32Gb (2x 16Gb kits) i5 8600i-k CPU (Initially anyway) i9 9900K CPU Upgrade Samsung 970 Evo NVMe M.2 500Gb drive (For system only) Seagate Barracuda Pro 6TB (for game storage) Hard drives and iGame GTX 1080Ti from old PC Lian Li CPU and PCIE Strimmer RGB Cables Bykski GPU water block to suit above Barrow CPU water block (which I've polished to a glass like transparency) Heaps of PETG 16mm tubing and bending tools Heaps of G1/4 fittings, extenders, adapters, couplers and plugs. Turned out to be quite a list in the end which has been sourced through Centercom Bundoora, TT Direct and ebay. Just a little bit of TT stuff....thought I would keep the theme. Aorus Master....couldnt wait for the extreme water cooled version and besides this cost more than the processor, which is a first for me, didn't want to know what the extreme will cost. Edit: Motherboard, processor, memory and Evo HDD were tested to bios with a heatsink and fan to verify these parts were ok before any assembly commenced. PART ONE RGB Design Concept As the case, leads, motherboard and mostly everything else is black I decided to make everything where possible...black thus Ebony Bliss also as everyone else gives their build blog a name so will I. That's a lot of black so Its going to need balls of RGB lighting to even see it. Bring on the 13 Riing fans and other RGB parts listed above. I've also included ARGB strips under the front and lower edges of the motherboard adapted to use the TT Controller plugs. The CPU and GPU blocks both have ARGB strips also adapted to TT plugs along with the Strimmer leads. All this RGB requires power and a lot of it, my calculations averaged around 10A @ 5V and I've added to that. While the TT power supply can deliver 30A @ 5V getting 10A out of it with Molex plugs gets messy plus I didn't want to deny the motherboard any current so a power distribution rethink was required. The UV concentrate looks excellent....suppose it will need UV lighting then. Bring on the cold cathode 300mm tube hidden down back edge of front radiator plus UV LED strip along inside lower and back edges of the case, these also need control. Testing of the pump made me realize that you need control of it to purge out the air etc so some sort of switch control is required. Furthermore this will need to be done preferably without the motherboard, drives etc powered up as many start/stop cycles are required. I could just use a toggle switch or similar but I want this a bit fancier so might as well build something. When working on the PC its always hard to see anything especially when everything is black on black. So a maintenance light to illuminate the entire case would be most excellent indeed. So requirements: Logic toggle switch control of pump, light, UV and RGB lighting (if possible) Ability to run at least pump and light from alternative power supply 12V to 5V converter and distribution board with custom leads Make a very bright 12V maintenance light using a 3 watt COB LED Upper Left - Logic controlled switchboard with MOSFET switched pump and 3x switched relay outputs Upper Right - Power Distribution Board with 12V to 5V 300W converter and 6x output headers Bottom - Pump mounted Master Switch Panel with 4x tactile switches and LEDs (pump LED is a dual colour green/flashing red that was in my breadboard, UV LED is a 3mm UV LED and the other 2 are green 3mm for RGB & maintenance Light functions) As I couldn't find anything like I wanted on eBay I built it instead, the above pics show the fruits of my labor with the 4 way logic switch board, pump mounted master switch panel and TT power distribution board. Discreet logic was used due to laziness however a microprocessor such as PIC or arduino would be better. The switch panel also has a DC power connector to allow a 12V 4A or so power supply. When plugged in the maintenance light comes on instantly and all other functions off, pump, light and UV can be operated in maintenance mode but not RGB as the maintenance 12V is isolated from the PC. In normal running mode the pump, UV and RGB are triggered but not the light. An additional switch board using blue illuminated tactile push button switches will be made to install at the top front of the case to mimic the function of the internal master switch board. A 10 way header is already installed to the switch board for this provision. Very careful drilling required for that exercise. Edit: I did find something on ebay in the end, if someone wants to do something similar with a lot less work search for 4 channel touch switch. The power distribution board consists of a 300 watt buck converter from ebay with an additional output filter and 6 output headers. This will supply up to 6 TT controllers with 12V & 5V and up to 15A or so on the 5V rail all from the PCs 12V supply only. An enable header was added to allow opto coupled control from the switch board however without 5V the TT controllers run the fans at full speed so that could be a problem. Under full load the buck converter only gets warm. Careful not all buck's on ebay meet their specs, the first 200W buck I got screamed horribly and blew up at only a 7A 5V load TT controllers mounted to 3rd hard drive bracket on standoffs as double sided tape wont cut it and surfaces are uneven. Leaving the covers off as the cute little boards are black and I like the exposed electronics on black look. This will provide up to 25 controllable ports for ARGB with the maximum capability of 30 if required. So far I have nicked a lot of parts off old PC peripherals including but not limited to: 2x motherboards for headers, heatsinks, capacitors and other assorted components 2x Floppy drives for power headers 1x stuffed power supply for case steel, massive MOSFET, large choke and heaps of bits 1x DVD burner for header And more The maintenance light consists of nothing more than a 3W COB LED with 2x 4R7 resistors in series on 12V. Works very well and lights up the whole case very well but gets very hot so I bolted it to a chip set heat sink and it seems fine without the fans running. A small bracket I made tucks it up level with the radiator and prevents it blinding you. Edit: I wasnt happy with the first maintenance light, got to toasty in ambient conditions...bring on Mk2 Found a small fan on a low profile heatsink, epoxyed a 2 pin header to the heatsink and slowed down the fan, works perfectly. LED is off center as the sticky pad already was there like that, small bead of compound under the resistors. Yet another custom bracket And here is the UV lighting as installed, will wait till coolant is flowing to see if more strips need to be added. UV Cold cathode behind radiator on more custom made and spray painted brackets....mixed feelings on this as I think UV LED strip is brighter but I bought it so in it goes. UV strips cut to length and wires with headers attached, strips stuck to cut lengths of magnetic fridge magnet (thanks to the real estate agents who put fridge magnet calendars in the letter box. Edit: Pointing up seemed better, lucky I used the magnets. Should do the job. Ok now its starting to look better, strip above power supply will be covered by the motherboard and the motherboard front strip is between the motherboard back plate and PCB. Pump is on a custom bracket I made from part of the case that fell out when I touched it above the front radiator. Lower Trio fans required grilles I nicked off old power supplies and sprayed black, got sick of fishing out dropped screws out of them. By the way you go through a lot of spray paint by the time you have sprayed boards, brackets, screws, washers, standoffs and even plug shells. Becomes a bit of an obsession....but it must be black! Didn't like the TT CPU blocks, sorry TT, and got 2 blocks for the same price as an EK block. This is the Barrow block after I increased the number of LEDs but before polishing. This is the Barrow block after polishing. I followed this guide here and he is spot on, you can get the acrylic polish at auto or hardware stores. This block has now been bolted to the motherboard/processor with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquidmetal compound, seen used in Linus tech tips vids. Has to be the craziest compound Ive ever used, strange almost spooky liquid metal stuff. (But I will NEVER use it again) More to come.....water cooling next........ UPDATE!! Even though the liquid metal compound works so well I will NEVER use it again. When I upgraded the CPU to a i9 9900K I found the compound had totally removed or covered the makings on the i5 8600K CPU and I had to linish the water block back to raw copper to remove it. The compound cannot be removed from the CPU at all. Really nasty stuff. Considerations, comments and suggestions are all welcomed as I'm flying by the seat of my pants here.
  5. Good Time of the day everyone! I would like to share my own experience of connecting Riing RGB fans together in 1 controller. This guide will divide in two parts: One of them is how to connect 4 fans in 1 controller, using only your hands and pin extractor (or any thin tools like needle). Second part will be about connecting up to 6 fans using same tools as in first case plus 4-pin Molex cable and electric tape (or shrinking tube or soldering iron + tape). A little Preface: Why I decided to divide in two parts? The answer is very simple. MB in most cases provides 12V @1Amp. Usually it will run up to 3 fans at max speed without any drawback (loosing RPM). However in some cases you can connect 4-th and you won't notice any difference. Firstly, (too obvious) power off your PC. (Don't forget that you are doing at your own risk, this is not official Thermaltake guide) We need tool to extract pins from the head. You can use basically anything thin enough to fit a little hole on top of the head. I used this tool: The idea is very simple, we need to extract pins from one head and insert them into another head, so there will be two fans goes into 1 4-pin head. There is enough room to fit 2 wires in 1 head slot. See little holes? Press on them and pull wires. Very simple. Do you see that there is enough space in the socket? We need to insert each extracted wire into proper slot. It would go snug and fit secure. At the end we will get this: Done! Just plug it back to controller and you are good to go! Video to demonstrate: https://youtu.be/jn-x7rH3Pwg Second part! Connecting up to 6 fans. We have to follow same process as before, BUT the big difference is that we need 4-pin molex cable. How it works: 4-pin PWM MB port has 4 pins (oh man, thanks Cap. Obvious!) You can see pinout below: We will utilize power from Molex cable (it's peripheral cable goes directly in PSU) and PWM signal from Motherboard. From the power cable, which goes with fans, you need to extract only two pins +12V and GND .Other 2 leave in the head. Extracted pins you need to connect to molex +12V and GND correspondingly. Here is pinout: Just in case: MOLEX has 2 grounds and it doesn't matter which to connect. What we'll get at the end: Just plug PWM to 4-pin MB fan port and Molex ... to molex, lol. No video yet, but it works If you'll have questions, don't hesitate to ask. Maybe I just forgot to mention something... Cheers!
  6. Hi I am new here. Using Windows 10 - all software updated. Have purchased 3x12inch and 3x14inch Riing Trio Rgb fans. I have two problems: 1. Upon installation the Tt RGB Plus software keeps throwing up a error message "warning controller 1", or "2" or "3". It does it intermittently. I have uninstalled usimg revo pro uninstaller and reinstalled, but same problem comes up. 2. The middle fan on both sets of fans does not show the right colours on the centre rgb ring (see photo). This happens on various software settings including 'static' and 'temp'. Given it is happening on one fan for both fans sets, it might be the software. Can anyone shed light on this? Cheers
  7. Hello! What's the difference between TT RGB Plus, TT X1 RGB Sync, TT Sync (couldn't find photo) and TT iTake? I can't really understand which product is working with which Sync and Software.. Thank you
  8. Hi Guys Im using the tt view 31 tg rgb with 3 rgb Fans. I installed the controller to change color on the fans. After reboot they don't remember LED settings. I know it's possible that the fans are remember the color after restart. What can I do? Thanks, Greetings from Switzerland
  9. Hola tengo el teclado y mouse del combo challenger prime rgb, y queria saber si los botones de la izquierda (creo que se llaman macros) se pueden configurar para abrir juegos u otros programas de forma rapida. Gracias
  10. I plan on buying the Asus Prime z390 A and the ThermalTake Riing TT Premium edition that comes with a controller, but this motherboard only has 4 pin 12v fan headers. To my knowledge, these fan headers do not allow the user to individually address RGB lights (which is what I'm aiming for). So my question is could I connect my TT RGB fans and strips to the TT sync controller, connect the controller to my Asus Prime z390 A motherboard through a 4 pin 12v fan header, and individually address the RGB lights all in conjunction with Asus Aura. I want my whole PC's RGB to be synced and I also only want to use one piece of software to control it all (whether that be through Asus' or ThermalTakes software). Is this possible at all throgh that 4 pin header? Thanks in advance
  11. ive been having trouble getting one of my riing 12 fans that comes with the kit to sync. the bottom two line up and the fans are all oriented the same way but the first fan is just slightly off from the other two. do i need to have them in certain slots on the included controller or is this a known issue? its just really frustrating to be off by just a bit. like its just enough to see it but not enough that its obvious from far away. any ideas?
  12. My Thermaltake Neptune Elite RGB stopped working after update, can anyone help me or please post Thermaltake Australia phone number. The windows picks up the driver but with unknown driver {USB input device}, and the Tt eSPORTS Gaming Software 3.0 says Please connect to correct device. I have tired it on 3 PCs Thank you
  13. Thermaltake View 21 Tempered Glass RGB Plus Edition Mid Tower Chassis *The image is for reference only. Product Link Thermaltake View 21 Tempered Glass RGB Plus edition mid-tower chassis features three 120mm Pure Plus 12 RGB front fans, one 120mm Pure Plus 12 RGB rear fan with removable filters and full-length PSU cover for outstanding ventilation. The RGB Plus fans are custom-designed to work with our AI Voice Control software, as well as with Amazon Alexa. The lighting effects can also be synchronized with Razer’s RGB products via Razer Chroma software. The View 21 TG RGB Plus supports the latest PC hardware and all high-end GPU solutions, providing unparalleled expandability for high-end configurations and liquid cooling systems. Satisfying the market where users have opted for stylish PC chassis with advanced features and massive aesthetic appeal. SyncALL, Say "Hello TT" Thermaltake AI Voice Control Talking to TT RGB PLUS App is an easier, faster way to set lights for your systems. You can ask it to turn the lights on or off, switch lights modes, dim the lights, change light colors, or adjust lights speeds or fan speeds. Choose a video from below to see how it works. Preinstalled with 4 Pure Plus 12 RGB Fans Thermaltake Pure Plus 12 Fan TT Premium Edition. 120mm high-static pressure fans with a 16.8 million colors LED ring and 9 addressable LEDs, the Pure Plus 12 RGB features compression blades and hydraulic bearings, controlled by the patented TT RGB PLUS Software and AI interactive voice control. Sync with Razer Chroma Lighting All Thermaltake TT RGB PLUS products are able to connect into the Razer Chroma ecosystem. Users who have installed both the TT RGB PLUS Software and Razer Synapse 3 can experience synchronized gaming and RGB lighting effects on their TT RGB PLUS liquid cooling system and gaming gear! From cooldown timers, health bars, and flashy ultimate indicators, to subtle ambient lighting that sets the perfect mood for each game, Razer Chroma provides an experience that transcends the screen and into your full setup, for a truly immersive experience. Works with Amazon Alexa All Thermaltake TT RGB PLUS products support Amazon Alexa Voice Service, allowing you to control the lights or fan speeds by talking to the Alexa-enabled device. With the support of Amazon Alexa, TT RGB PLUS products also offer an additional visual cue for checking current weather condition in your location or anywhere in the world. All you have to do is simply starting the sentence with “Alexa, tell Thermaltake”, then the lighting color will correspond to the weather condition in the location.
  14. I’ve been having my Thermaltake Riing 12 RGB (CL-F042-PL12SW-B) for about a month now and suddenly this happened. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/375445211280572437/490597288985493505/video.mov (use this if video above is not available) Only one fan lights up but the other two doesn’t. Sometimes when I turn on my PC, the other two lights up and turns off. Most of the time, they don’t light up at all when I press the power button. All of them are connected to a fan controller included.
  15. http://www.ttesports.com/Mice/288/Iris_Optical_RGB/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.W1mkANgzbUI
  16. http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/277/CHALLENGER_EDGE_PRO_RGB/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.W1mjhNgzbUI
  17. http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/293/Neptune_Elite_RGB_Blue/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.W1me5tgzbUI http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/300/Neptune_Elite_RGB_Brown/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.W1mfo9gzbUI
  18. Hi everyone, I want to ask for help in this forum because my challenger prime rgb keyboard stopped working after trying to update the firmware to version 2.0. Now when I connect it does not turn on and in the Windows 10 Device Manager I get error code 43 (Error in a USB device descriptor request) so it does not work anymore and I would like to know how to fix it and install the software again but it does not recognize it and it is totally off. Excuse my English level ... I'm from Argentina.
  19. Hello, Would you guys be able to release an SDK (Software Development Kit) for the Poseidon Z RGB Mechanical keyboard? I find the official software to be too ugly for my taste, and I would much prefer being able to program the LED's via code instead of using a user-interface. By releasing an SDK, you guys would save me alot of trouble, the past couple of days i've spent trying to set the LED's via the HidApi function HidD_SetFeature(handle, data, length), but it keeps refusing. So i'm gonna try implement libusb-win32 instead because someone said they could get it work. Thanks!
  20. TT Sync controller seems to support this and it would be extremely lame if the controller which comes with the Floe Riing RGB 240 TT Premium Edition (oh, that's a long name) didn't. TT Riing Plus RGB sees it and controls the fans, the pump and the LEDs ok, however, none of that is recognized by MSI Mystic Light software. So is it actually possible to control this cooler's RGB with Mystic Light?
  21. I just bought my Cronos RGB 7.1 headset and really like the quality, but when I activate the lights, there is a loud humming noise in time with the lights settings (Spectrum Running, Pulse Jumping, and Static). Is this supposed to happen? If so, is there a way to turn it off so that you have the lights without the annoying humming noise?
  22. Just wanted to show off my new custom loop I just finished Building. Core V31 Case, MSI Gaming M5 Mobo, I7-7700k Overclocked to 5.3 GHZ, 8GBx2 Hyper X Savage DDR4 Ram overclocked to 3000MHZ, EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 with EKWB Waterblock, Raystorm Pro CPU waterblock, ThermalTake Pump and reservoir combo, a 280mm Radiator and a 360mm Radiator with Corsair Fans, custom RGB LED setup. Also I made that custom RGB GPU backplate with 6661 in it. A BlueRay DVDRW Drive, SSD and SSHD Drive. Random Carbon Fiber pieces. Hard Tubing and random XSPC triple seal Fittings. About to try and start my next build for the University Of Alabama's 2017 National Championship Win. Thinking of going for "The Case 900" with the MSI gaming M7 motherboard, Hard Tubing, 2 Thermaltake d5 pump reservoir combos, my gtx 1080 with a custom LED backplate of some style to represent The University Of Alabama. A black Supremacy EVO waterblock. Still Gonna use hard tubing but thinking of going with a grey and red coolant color scheme.
  23. Hello! I've just purchased the Riing Plus 12 TT Premium edition fans 3pack + controller and it has been one infuriating experience. I assumed that hardware would be plug and play but yet I've had to reinstall the software multiple times, try multiple software, use multiple USB ports, open the controller to get access to the hw revision number and experience horrendous product naming conventions! Could you please Shorten your product names Combine your software into a one single program Tell me why the controller cannot detect the fans? (H_0x0001) Controller details are: REV: D03 FAN BOX R02 2016/11/09 My system details: 8700K Asus Strix z370-F 32 GB DDR4 3466 Galax GTX 1080Ti Exoc EKWB A240G Fluidgaming I've read the forums, I've tested out the suggestions here and from around the web to no avail. Please help! Thanks Tyler
  24. Hello everyone, I have a question, that was asked on an older product of thermaltake(I believe it was the Riing rgb) . I saw, that the Thermaltake Riing Plus RGB TT premium fans come in a pack of 3 fans most of the time and a controller box, where you can put 3 fans on it. In my new pc I would like to put 6 of them in the case (3 for watercooling) and also the pump Pacific PR22-D5 Plus. Now to my question. If I put 3 controllers boxes in my pc, are they all 3 synchronized or do I have to buy extra cables to put all 7 in one controller box, if so which cable is it? thanks in advance for all tips and answers.
  25. I was unsure where to put this topic. So i just threw it here seemed appropriate. So i have purchased a view 31 case, and a riing premium watercooler 240 in which i do not know where to get the software to control my RGB. Can anyone link me a place to download the software for these? Thanks.
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