Tte Martin

I am posting this here on behalf of the modder. You can find his complete worklog in the German PC Games Hardware eXtreme forums.
 
CPU: i7-5960X Board: Asus X99-E WS GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SuperClocked ACX 2.0 (Triple SLI) RAM: G.Skill 8x 4GB Power supply: Antec High Current Pro HCP-1300 Platinum, 1300W M.2: Samsung XP941 500 GB SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD2: Sagate 600 pro 460 GB     Aquacomputer Aquastream XT Standard Aquacomputer Shoggy Sandwich Aquacomputer Filter  Aquacomputer aquaero 6 Pro LCS controller Aquacomputer Cuplex kryos silver edition   Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm 2x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS Bionic fans   Koolance Radiator, 1x140mm 30-FPI Copper Koolance RAM-33   Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10 - Acetal - Black Alphacool NexXxoS RXP-1   Watercool MO-RA3 420    9x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK2 4x Silverstone 180mm fans SST-AP182   The costs for this build were about € 8,500-9,000.   Full overview and reservoir mounted outside the chassis for easy checks of the coolant level and refills.     Small radiator at the back that forwards the coolant to the MO-RA. Tubing will be optimized further.     Tubing inside the chassis. The tubes leading to the mainboard coolers had to be boiled.     The cables are hidden behind an aluminium plate.     MO-RA with 4x 180mm fans and 120mm fans is standing on his own feet. Two LED strips illuminate the frame.     Additional fans and radiator at the top of the case.  

I am posting this here on behalf of the modder. You can find his complete worklog in the German PC Games Hardware eXtreme forums.
 
CPU: i7-5960X Board: Asus X99-E WS GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SuperClocked ACX 2.0 (Triple SLI) RAM: G.Skill 8x 4GB Power supply: Antec High Current Pro HCP-1300 Platinum, 1300W M.2: Samsung XP941 500 GB SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD2: Sagate 600 pro 460 GB     Aquacomputer Aquastream XT Standard Aquacomputer Shoggy Sandwich Aquacomputer Filter  Aquacomputer aquaero 6 Pro LCS controller Aquacomputer Cuplex kryos silver edition   Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm 2x Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS Bionic fans   Koolance Radiator, 1x140mm 30-FPI Copper Koolance RAM-33   Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT Alphacool Cape Fuzion Core 10 - Acetal - Black Alphacool NexXxoS RXP-1   Watercool MO-RA3 420    9x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK2 4x Silverstone 180mm fans SST-AP182   The costs for this build were about € 8,500-9,000.   Full overview and reservoir mounted outside the chassis for easy checks of the coolant level and refills.     Small radiator at the back that forwards the coolant to the MO-RA. Tubing will be optimized further.     Tubing inside the chassis. The tubes leading to the mainboard coolers had to be boiled.     The cables are hidden behind an aluminium plate.     MO-RA with 4x 180mm fans and 120mm fans is standing on his own feet. Two LED strips illuminate the frame.     Additional fans and radiator at the top of the case.  

Fixed - Thank you for my AWESOME Mouse - Much Recommended  

Hello everyone,
 
This is not a driver request post. This is an actual driver release/testing post.
 
As some of you might know, TtEsports Poseidon Z keyboard does not work properly on Mac OS X. Symptoms like typing "e" generates "e ", pressing "tab" results in nothing are seen under Mac OS X. I programmed an in-kernel driver for Poseidon Z keyboard to replace the stock IOUSBHIDDriver.kext generic USB keyboard driver for Poseidon keyboard.
 
This driver currently only supports Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite. It's not because it uses any new features of Yosemite. It simply because I have upgraded all my Macintoshes and Hackintoshes to 10.10. I have no testing environment for older Mac OS X systems.
 
This driver only drives Poseidon Z keyboard, even though its name is misleading (TtEsportsUSBHIDDriver.kext). In other works, vendor ID 0x566, product ID 0x3067.
 
To install the driver, I recommend to use Kext Utility.app, which I already include in the download package. Please download the driver package at http://cl.ly/2u2m230n1S35?_ga=1.36054240.1744096441.1388556674first.
 
Please unpack the package, you will find three components: TtEsportsUSBHIDDriver.kext, Kext Utility.app and IORegistryExplorer.app. Follow the steps below to install.
0. Disable the check of driver signatures by using the command below in Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app
sudo nvram boot-args=kext-dev-mode=1  It's worth mentioning that this command will need to be rerun after whenever you issue an nvram clear (i.e., Command+Option+P+R during booting). A more permanent solution is editing /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.Boot.plist.
Please restart your Mac after this step.
1. Drag "Kext Utility.app" to your Applications folder, and launch it.
2. Type in your login password, and wait until it's done with its work.
3. Drag TtEsportsUSBHIDDriver.kext into the window of Kext Utility, and type in your password again. Wait until it's done.
4. Replug in your Poseidon Z keyboard. If it still doesn't work, reboot your Mac and plug in your keyboard.
 
If your keyboard still doesn't work after the steps above, please launch "IORegistryExplorer.app" and search for "TtEsports". If you cannot find the driver like what is shown on the screenshot, then the driver doesn't work for you, please reply this post.
 
FYI, I'm using a blue switch Poseidon Z.
 

Love White Version
 

 
 

 
 

Here's my entry 
 
Title: Precision in every sense of the word
 
Resolution: 1024x680 @ 659K 
 
Big version @1920x1080: http://bit.ly/1ETeTWb
 
FB Share: https://www.facebook.com/Joseph.A.Fakhry/posts/735722109880517
 
Image Source for [Tt eSPORTS BLACK V2 Laser Gaming Mouse]: http://bit.ly/1EThb7E
 

Hello Seansyho:
 
I am Tt eSPORTS PM Vic, Tutor video as below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqx_0J-PF3E&feature=youtu.be
 
It's working. No worry about it.
Have a nice day,
Challenger is the Game.

Done Liked and Spread the Love 
https://www.facebook.com/RYFerdinandus/posts/1085628694787873

Chiobe: I took your advice and redid my build last night. I mounted my EK Coolstream rad and fans on the 2 HDD brackets and then attached it to the right side of the case just as you had done. The tubing run is better. I also remounted the top 8 fans so all of the fan wires went to the middle I was able to use pair of 2 and had 4 fan controller wires to connect them. I was ablt to "hide the wiring" between the 2 rads. Once I get this picture posting issue figured out on this forum i'll post.
 
Still not as "pretty" as your build but MUCH cleaner.

I am happy to let everyone know that the firmware provided above is working perfectly.
Sensor now tracks without issues. All buttons are working as they should.
Sensitivity can be controlled on the fly using the buttons. Profile switching is perfect.
 
You guys really came through. Hats off to TtJosh and the entire TtEsports team. Thanks so much.
After this I might just pick up a Poseidon ZX to go with my Theron
 
 
Edit: Just finished a round of CS:GO deatchmatch. This things works like a charm. As if nothing ever happened!!!
Thanks everyone.

With our (PT40-D5)Pump/Reservoir, (W1)CPU block and (RL240)Radiator installed we can now install the fans for the radiator.
 
Make sure you first know the direction of the air flow on the fan

 
Now for this build, the fans normally install on the inside of the chassis, but since this is DIY..


 
It is a tight fit and there was no issue with the front panel installed so I decided to mount on the outside giving me a little more room for the PT40-D5 to fit just right.


 
Moving back to the PT40-D5 will install the fittings and install into the chassis. (Make sure you have placement set where you want it first)


 
Here is the part where you come into the loop You will want to do a placement of all your components before you secure everything into place, some components you might have to remove and replace a few times until you get what you want. Take your time! You want to make sure you have everything installed to not only fit for your other components: PSU cables, VGA cards, HDD/SSD to avoid any issues AFTER you have everything cut and installed.

 
Take note on a couple important actions you need to do:
 
1. You have 6.5ft of tubing, don't waste making incorrect cuts or cutting too soon. Test and take your time.
2. Cut your tube as straight as you can to have the best seal possible.
3. Once you cut your tubing, use that piece for other routing to get a "Rough Idea"
4. When you have a tight spot (Like I did for the bottom port on the PT40) make sure you give enough room to avoid any pinch in the tube.
5. Secure the compression fittings with the tube pressed over the bard side as best as you can to assure a proper seal and avoid LEAKS.
 
Before we start getting some coolant into our system, take some precaution to lay down on paper towels just in case we have any issue with leaks. Take the 24-pin jumper included to attached to your PSU as this will help with powering up the system without using the motherboard to turn the PSU on.
 

 
Take advantage of the filler bottle included with the coolant in the kit, you can remove the tip off the end for the bulk filling and then add the tip back on for more precision filling until you have the system purged and filled correctly.

 
Start filling the PT40-D5 with the supplied coolant and you will see the reservoir start to fill and some of the tubing that is lower including the radiator.With the other top port removed on the top of the PT40-D5 I added coolant slowly.
 
Once you get the coolant filled above the inner tube in the PT40-D5 (Fill it above the inner tube about half way) you can now switch the PSU on and let the pump start to circulate the coolant throughout the loop.
 
**You will likely have to switch the PSU on/off a couple times making sure to turn it off once the coolant level gets below the inner tube length**
 



 
 
Here is what I had left after filling the system to the appropriate levels. You may have to add more later, let the system run and continue to check for any leaks.

 
Once you have the system running for a while and confirm no leaks are present, shut off the system and reconnect the 24-pin to the motherboard and finish installing the rest of your components. Make sure all your cables are routed correctly when installing other components be careful to not put any pressure on your tubing or other component that could cause any issue with the seal of the coolant in the system.
 
This build was made using only the parts provided in the liquid cooling kit, Thermaltake offers many other parts including several different fittings like 45's and 90's to help with a even better fit. Plan out what you want to do, make sure you have everything you need and if you want to try DIY Cooling, think Thermaltake and let anyone here know if you have any questions.
 

Hi everyone,
 
With the release of our Pacific DIY components and Kits, I wanted to provide a guide focused on the RL240 kit and take you through the installation process to give users an idea of what you will get:
 
RL240 Kit:

 
What you get:
- (1) RL240 Radiator 240x120x64mm
- (1) PT40-D5 Reservoir + Pump Combo (Includes Hardware)
- (1) W1 CPU Water block (Includes Hardware + Thermal Paste)
- (1) 4T 1/2" Tubing (6.5ft)
- (1) Coolant 1000ml (Red) + Filler Bottle
- (6) 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Compression Fittings
- (2) Luna 12 Red LED Fans
- (1) 24-pin PSU Jumper
 
Here is everything out of the box:
 

 
Here is the PT40-D5 Reservoir + Pump:
 
When you open the PT40-D5 packaging you will have all the accessories in bags including the mounting hardware. The brackets included allow you to mount the PT40 vertically or horizontally depending on the configuration you want to do. 
 

 
**VERY IMPORTANT**
There are set screws on both ends of the reservoir that are to secure the Tube to both ends, these screw do not need to be tightened. Also take note, if you plan to clean your reservoir later, make sure to remove the set screws (Both sides Top/Bottom) prior to removing to avoid causing any stress to the tube when separating. Also take care of the O-rings on both sides to make sure they are in the correct place when putting back together.
 


 
On the bottom you have the pump speed adjustment that should be set in the "2" position by default. I recommend leaving the speed adjustment alone until you have the system up and running to make any adjustments later. Turing the speed up is only needed when necessary, with the setting of "2" should be enough to support the default kit configuration. 
 

 
Here is all the included brackets and hardware for the PT40-D5
 


 
Since I am installing this in our Core V31, I plan to mount this vertically so I have installed the mounting brackets to the pump housing to secure into the chassis floor.
 


 
 
Here is a quick look at the Core V31 that we will be installing the RL240 kit
 

 
Getting ideas on how to place the PT40-D5. (Removed the HDD trays and the bottom ODD for clearance)
 

 
Now for the (240mm) radiator placement and overview. First you need to remove the orange plastic plugs that came pre-installed. Give the radiator a quick look and make sure everything is ok.
 

 
Here is the accessories that come included, you get mounting screws for the radiator and for the fans as well as (3) G1/4 port plugs and a wrench tool for easy installation.
 

 
Before you go through installing everything on the radiator, check the location where you plan to place it and make sure it will work out with the entire system including the water loop to make sure all your fittings and tubing will have proper clearance and your tubing will have proper flow to avoid the tube from pinching around a tight space. It is also a good idea before installation of your radiator to fill the radiator with distilled water and give it a good shake to remove anything left over from the manufacturing process. Fee free to repeat this step as many times as you want until you are satisfied.
 

 
You can setup the porting anyway you like, for this example I will use the (2) bottom ports on one side for my IN & Out and plug the other (2) bottom ports on the other side with the last plug for the top.
Note: Do not tighten the top plug port just yet, you may need to use it for a breather port when filling
 

 
The wrench is a great tool to use for tightening the ports on your components as the fittings have "slots" on the top so you can use the wrench to tighten and avoid scratching the component or fitting using a standard pair of pliers.

 
The wrench also is designed to help secure the plug ports nicely. Remember, DO NOT over tighten, you will just damage the O-Rings if you gorilla grip the fittings into place. A snug fit is fine.

 
Now we take a look at the W1 CPU block to prepare it for installation to the motherboard. You will get a simple installation guide showing how to install for Intel or AMD type CPU's. Take note of the accessories labeled for each Intel/AMD.
 




 
Now install the back plate to your motherboard and punch out the foam holes for your CPU Socket type to install the mounting screws to.
 

 
Once the back plate is installed and the mounting screws are through the motherboard, secure the CPU in place and apply thermal paste. Then seat the W1 CPU block onto your CPU first and make sure everything lines up correctly. When ready set the (4) plastic washers after placing the CPU block.

 
Then install the (4) screw caps and tighten them in the "X" pattern to apply appropriate pressure evenly as you secure the block. These only need to be hand tight and you should be able to tell when each one is secure very easily.

 
Now you can install the fittings on both ports, don't forget to use your wrench!

Hello dem,
the Core V41 will hit European markets in late April to early May. The other Core V models are already available, only this one is missing to complete the range.

Hello Tt Members & Friends !! 
 
I came to share another casemod project with you!
 
This project was based on the movie Batman The Dark Knight and Dark Knight Rises.
 
the film is old medium. but for those who love, is never last!
 
in this time (19 / Mar / 2015) is still under construction.
 
but soon be all ready to be published to all of you!
 
I hope you enjoy!
 
Greetings
 
 
Fabio Moma (BR) From Japan
 
 
 
 
 

Who's here's excited for our new Poseidon Z RGB mechanical keyboard! It's coming out soon and features 16.8 million RGB colours through each individual keycap LED. In addition - models will be available with both a Tt Blue Switch and Tt Brown Switch, and are fully backed by our World First 5 Year Warranty on a mechanical keyboard. I know I'll be getting one!  Which switch type with you be getting and why?
 
For more information: http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/201/POSEIDON_Z_RGB_Brown_Switch_Edition_/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.V58MqPl96M8

Here's an example shot with my junky cell phone camera with an Alphacool ST30 up top and a Swiftech MCR320-XP in front.
 
If I take the Alphacool and flip it with the fans, I can actually fit an Alphacool UT60, possibly with push-pull fans. And even then I still have room for a large reservoir mounted to the front radiator and space for 10.5" or 11" video cards. THis orientation was a test-fit to explore options.
 

X9 side panels will be available through our customer support office in Germany by the end of April

See...they got the whole globe covered! To be honest, had I understood that the X9 did not allow fan mounting on the upper half of the side panel, then I probably would not have bought the case. I absolutely have to feed my GTX 780 cool air in order to sleep at night. I'm a total noob when it comes to modding....I'm not a machinist or fabricator...but here is a grainy picture of me defying the odds!
 

It's probably worth mentioning that this competition is open for residents of the United Kingdom only. Good luck

I started to build a system featuring the RL-240 Water Cooling Kit and the amazing Core V21 case.
 
For a while I had a problem figuring out just where and how to mount the large pump/reservoir. I did a bit of custom mounting... easy... just a few holes...
so I've decided to share the build up to this point. I have a few 90 Degree fittings on order to make my life a bit easier...
 Note: You can even adjust the pump speed easily as the adjustment dial is exposed thru a cutout in the front (already available).
The mount for the far end of the reservoir is made from 2 old expansion slot covers. Edit: Now Painted Black.

It's also available at ALTERNATE in Germany now and the starter kit can also be preordered at SCAN Computers UK. Let us know what you think about it, we are eager to hear your opinions.

A follow up to my previous post, where I made it possible to flip the case on its side, and also move the front io-panel and turn the front itself to be oriented the right way.
 
I still need ram-block, which will eliminate the crossing White tube, but I'm getting closer.
If you look closely,  you can see my Aquaro controller in its house below the PSU. (in the second image)


 
I have full buildlog over here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1533741/build-log-thermaltake-core-v1-remake-and-full-custom-watercooling

Hello! 
 
Hope you guys enjoy.
 
Specs:
 
CPU: i5 4670
GPU: Nvidia EVGA 780 gtx
MOBO: Asus Z87-A
RAM: 16GB DDR3 Kingston Hyperx
PSU: Corsair TX 750m
Case: Thermaltake a31 (blue)
 



 

I am a happy core v51 owner, but i have one minor complaint, it sometimes vibrates too much and is noisy at the same time.
I'm running these components:

Antec HCG620
ASRock Fatal1ty h87 Performance
Intel i5 4440
4GB Balistix Sport
MSI GTX760 2G OC

Atm only a mechanical Hitachi drive, 850 Evo will be coming in soon as well as 8 gigs of G.Skill Ripjaws.

Might post some pics of the build on the forum.
 

Hello SoyMilk,
may I ask where you are from so we can get you in touch with your local customer service for a new cable?