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58 minutes ago, godevskii said:

@View71you just need to take your time tying the cables before they get to the back in a big bundle, i shortened the fan cables tying them along side of the fans so they have no more nor less length then what they need to get to the splitter, there's actually very good places to put hidden splitters on this case.

Overall it's still a bit messy on the back, but considering the amount of stuff that i have and using extensions and not fully custom cables i guess it's OK and can't get much better than this. I'm very happy with the case despite having to do a couple hard mods.

 

My case is in a small corner flanked by the desk and paper/printer rack - no one can see that mess ... all good! :)

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  • 2 months later...

Hello all, new to the forum, but not to thermaltake, my last 3 cases have all been thermaltake as I like to vertical mount my gpu with ease.

My latest build (not completed, a few pipes to re do) is using the View 71 in black.

The overall quality of the case is very good for the rpice considering the amount of glass you get, lots of customising opportunities and I think the case caters very well for water cooling capabilites.

here is a pic of my build so far ( wil look a lot cleaner when i have finished)

I have a 420 rad on top with a full size (64mm) thermaltake 360cl rgb rad at the rear with all ring fans.

graphics: RTX2080ti

CPU: i9 9900K

Ram: 64 gb rgb

 

 

tt711.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,  there are some really great looking builds here!  

Thought I'd join the club and show my build with this case that I did last summer and since added a few bits and tweaks here and there.  This is the first time I'd attempted a rigid tube loopI've got my eye on one of those Barrow distro plates but think I'll stick with the helix res for now.  I'm very happy with the case, despite weighing a ton due to all the glass it's very roomy and easy to build in.  The glass panels are somewhat restrictive though for high airflow radiator fans, I can drop a good few degrees on coolant temps by removing the front panel so thinking of attempting to make a bigger standoff to increase the gap for air to get in.

Also a question for those of you with dual radiators in this case, how do you have your airflow set up?  I've currently got mine with both rads as intakes (top and front) with a 140 rear and 120 bottom exhaust.  Warm air does seem to recirculate out from the bottom and sides and get sucked back into the front rad but still cools better than the entire 420 in the top using the hot air from the front rad when I had it set to exhaust.  What has worked best for you guys?

Specs:

8700k @5Ghz

ASUS Maximus Hero X

MSI RTX 2080ti Seahawk EK X

16Gb G.Skill Trident Z 3466

EVGA Supernova 850G2

Acer Predator XB321HK & LG 27UD68 Monitors

2x M.2 SSD, 2x SSD, 1x HDD

Loop: 

Alphacool XPX CPU block, EK Seahawk GPU block, DDC 18+ Pump w/ XSPC highflow top, Alphacool Helix 250 res, EK CE420 rad in top with Vardar fans, Original Gen 2 BlackIce 360GTX in front push/pull with Vardars and XSPC fans

 

20190522_230848smal.jpg

20190522_230826small.jpg

20190522_230649small.jpg

20190522_230516small.jpg

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10 hours ago, Fallen_Angel said:

Would that not result in the hot exhaust air hitting the glass plates and just getting sucked straight back into the case to recirculate through the radiators though due to the negative pressure it would create

Rad fan speed is ~1000 rpm max if we're talking 360 Rad (or better) hence the fan exhaust wind is pretty mild.

If you're in Mediterranean climate fan speed hovers around ~700rpm (non oc'ed)

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello,

I am in the middle of building my PC using this View 71.

I am having trouble because my GPU slot guard bracket doesn't fit the vertical GPU mount on this case.

and YET to find anyone here or elsewhere having this problem??

I have EVGA 2080 XC Ultra Super and it has extra large slot that makes me impossible to sit my gpu on the vertical mount and fit it in the slot of the case part.

I am thinking about cutting the metal on my own and do some modification but why am i the only one having this trouble?

and everyone seems fine?  is there something that I am too stupid to realize here? lol

I will attach some pictures for this.

 

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2222.jpg

3333.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

I‘m planning to build my next computer in the 71, but I have a question about the front radiator support. It says that mounting a 420mm rad is possible, but only two 140mm fans are supported. Is it just that the holes are missing to mount the third one (which means it would be possible to mount them to the radiator only) or is there not enough space, which means the fans would’ve to be mounted on the inside?

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  • 1 month later...
On 10/14/2019 at 7:57 PM, FaafVonFasslich said:

Hi

I‘m planning to build my next computer in the 71, but I have a question about the front radiator support. It says that mounting a 420mm rad is possible, but only two 140mm fans are supported. Is it just that the holes are missing to mount the third one (which means it would be possible to mount them to the radiator only) or is there not enough space, which means the fans would’ve to be mounted on the inside?

You wont be able to mount the 420 with all the 12 fans screws, screwed to the case, there's not enough space. You can screw 10, and the other top 2 just screw the fans directly to the rad through the opening, or you can use the fans on the inside.

I have a 360 and it maxed out the sliding holes as you can see: 1.JPG

But for both option be aware that if you go with the 420 it must be a slim one because it can interfere with rads mounted on the top of the case.

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I have the view 71 and already have a custom cooled loop... but I’m ready to upgrade and revise the loop.  Looking to mount the rad on the bay slot, facing the window.  Just wanted to see if anyone had positive or negative experience with this.  My concern is air flow of course.  May not need much for overclocking cpu and gpu. I’ll of course have at least a 360 on top as well.  
 

Thanks in advance 

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I bought the View 71 Argb case and was wondering where two cables went. They are marked "E" and "F".

There is no description in the manual.  Any help would be great.

 

I found my answer. My mobo  does not have a 5v rgb header. Only 12v.  I've ordered a controller.

Edited by Talon1
solved
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  • 2 months later...

Finally got my View71 case with Thermaltake Riing's setup (the way they should have been manufactured).

This is an awesome case, but the included RGB Riing controller is underwhelming. Which stinks, because I love the look of the original Riing fans better than all the new cheap-toy looking frosted plastic stuff everyone's doing, just my opinion 😁

I ditched their controller and made my own with an arduino Nano driving a TLC5947, controlled via Linux app. The only thing that bothers me now, is the white power button... gotta RGB that up!

Screenshot from 2020-02-12 14-47-04.png

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On 2/15/2020 at 1:36 PM, MayaWilson said:

hey guys i got mine earlier this year but i just noticed that the front usb 3.0 is not working any body know how to fix this??? the other two on the front work ( usb 2.0)

USB ports DOA on a new case... sounds like cable issue or drivers.

  1. Check that USB 3.x device is detected by the OS.
  2. If it is, try updating the drivers. If it is not, you need to install them or install the chip set drivers for your motherboard
  3. If Drivers are good, then you likely have a bad connection somewhere. Check the USB header , then follow the cable to the front and check for loose or severed cable

USB3.png

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Hi all, hoping I can get some help wit this. I recently ordered a Distro Block (Barrow, Thermaltake View 71) and just realized it's not engineered correctly.

 

yeah so tired of soft tubing and having had my pump running for about half of it's 5 year life span (50k MTBF, D5 140) I justified upgrading to a distribution plate to replace the pump, res, and make laying out hard-line easier and cleaner looking.

In my excitement, even though I viewed the distribution plate enough, somehow I managed to assume that flow was going in the other direction, i.e. up and to the CPU block, then to the top mounted rad, then to the GPU, then side mounted rad, then to reservoir.

If you look at this image you can kind of see follow my misperception. Just pretend that the flow direction isn't with gravity down into the pump but the other way, flowing into the port at the top-left of the large cavity and then to the top of the CPU.

Yeah no, correct me if I'm mistaken but the flow direction is actually directly from the CPU into the distribution block and down into the pump, THEN into the radiator, then the GPU, then the top rad, then back down into the CPU.

http://www.barrowint.com/plus/view.php?aid=920

http://www-x-barrowint-x-com.img.abc188.com/ueditor/php/upload/image/20191014/1571044282840453.jpg

So this is actually a huge no no, you don't want hot water going directly into a passively cooled pump (the pump that is coming with this board from Ali Express doesn't even have a heat-sink).

The distro plate is plastic, plastic isn't a good conductor of heat, so it's basically going to very warm as the CPU in question is 8700k @ 170W with a monoblock and all of the attendant heat from the VRM.

Unless I'm mistaken here, I'm going to try to cancel this order.

Very sad, I don't know how this passed engineering mock up.

 

 

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Yes, per most of the product advertising, the CPU is depicted as returning hot liquid back into the pump before hitting a radiator.

However, you don't have to set it up as advertised. I think they're just aiming for cleanest look for the pictures. It ultimately boils down to your routing of the tubes and how you want it setup.  

To get what you're wanting... avoiding hot(ter) water from hitting the pump - Return the CPU's output to a waterway which then runs to a radiator, then back to the pump. Or go GPU, CPU, Rad, distro block. that said, by the time you route it the way you want it, it may not have the same look you were going for.

Attaching a pic from someone else's build to illustrate the point. Hope this helps, and good luck :)

 

barrow.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

No, at least not without some surgery.

It could be done , but it's not a turnkey deal. The plastic top and front come off - legs look like they could come off, and it looks like they can be flipped around just based on symmetry of mounting holes. However the interior bottom of the case is solid, the top is open. You'd need to cut out the bottom and transplant in the top (new bottom) and ensure you can get it structurally sound afterwards.

If viewing pleasure is all... Would be easier to take the right side glass off, set it down on it's right side and enjoy as a large glass monitor stand or inset into a square cut into your desk:)

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