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kewlmunky

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Everything posted by kewlmunky

  1. Do you mean you reboot your computer to fix the issue? If so, what you actually (and sadly) need to do is restart the TT RGB Plus software. Thermaltake claims that due to how USB is initialized when coming out of sleep mode, the controller and software are unable to reinitialize properly. Hopefully they update the program to automatically restart when waking from sleep. Thermaltake was also sending out cables for the controllers with some sort of resistor in them that was supposed to fix the issue. But I keep seeing complaints of this pop up so I'm not sure if they stopped it or if they no longer work. Shoot them an email requesting them and see what they can do.
  2. Video of the finished product?
  3. The Riing Plus fans have a single light ring, consisting of 12 addressable RGB lights, around the perimeter of the fan blades. The Riing Trio fans have three light rings: one ring inside the fan blade hub that has 6 addressable RGB lights, a ring on the front of the fan that goes around the perimeter of the fan blades that has 12 addressable RGB lights, and another ring on the back side of the fan that has 12 addressable RGB lights. This totals you 30 addressable RGB lights on the Riing Trio fans. The Riing Trio fans may also have better performance ratings, but I haven't looked at that too closely. As far as their appearance; I don't own them Trio fans, so I can't accurately comment. I know that the product images for the RGB fans always look different than what I see in videos from consumers on youtube. I would say that what people capture in videos is closer than the product images you see.
  4. I tried playing around with it and it seems the minimum you can set the fans to is ~500RPM in the software. I tried setting them to silent with the percent slider at 0%. Also turned off the port on the controller in the software. The fan kept spinning.
  5. Have you checked to see if the pump RPM changes as your CPU temperature increases? They may have the pump run at lower speed with cooler temperatures.
  6. It appears they removed Sound 1 and 2 and renamed sound 3 to Party mode. Then added game and movie mode, which are designed to have the fan colors react to the colors of the game and movie playing, respectively.
  7. The Lumi color strips run off a 12V header, and thus are considered analog. This means they are not individually addressable like the Riing Plus fans, which are considered digital. So while you can have both installed and operating, you will need to use the included controller for the lumi color strips, which will limit which lighting settings you can use to match your fans to them. Thermaltake does sell Lumi Pacific Plus strips that come in a 3 pack and the same 5 port controller as your Riing Plus fans, but they are rather expensive.
  8. For the software to not need elevation they would have to disable it from monitoring your CPU temperature and you would also not be able to use the game, party, and movie lighting effects. I'm sure a lot of people would like that as an option, but that would require more features for them to produce. Which we have seen is a long, slow, and painful process for them.
  9. Have you tried plugging in just the controller that came with the 140mm fans? You may have a bad controller.
  10. They've mentioned a whole new software a few times. I'm hoping they add the option to create device groups and then one can set lighting effects and fan speeds based on groups, else devices not in groups remain at their individual settings. It would be helpful to people with lots of devices.
  11. That I cannot answer, as I have not seen anyone try to use multiple controllers and multiple headers. @ThermalMike can hopefully answer this for you.
  12. They used to have the following modes: sound1, sound2, and sound3. I believe around version 1.2.5 they got rid of sound1 and sound2 and renamed sound3 to party mode. Party mode should react to your music. Gaming mode is supposed to have the fans change color depending on what colors show up in your game. I haven't tested out movie mode, but it probably does the same as game mode but for movies.
  13. It is not possible to chain the included controller with the TT Sync Premium Controller.
  14. I've heard them mention a few times they have a completely new software in the works. I hope it is almost done. It would be nice if one could put fans into groups, and then one sets the lights and speed for each group.
  15. If you have a motherboard manual, double check it for the listing of a USB 2.0 header. If it was a prebuilt computer, contact customer service of the company you purchased it for. If you truly do not have the header, you will need to look for an expansion card to give you one. The only other way to control the fans would be with the TT Sync controller that runs the fans via BIOS and the LEDs through motherboard software by connection of a 5V RGB header.
  16. Maybe you only have one USB 2.0 header and it's being used by your front panel ports for your case? I'd be very surprised if you actually don't have the header. If you don't have the header, you will need to find an expansion card to provide one. I briefly looked, but all I could find were cards to add USB 3.0 headers, so you may have a tough time finding them. Without a USB 2.0 header, you will be unable to control the fans with Thermaltake's software.
  17. You will still need to daisy chain the controllers so that they all show up in the software.
  18. 1. If you wish to use Asus Aura, you will need to purchase the TT Sync controller, which is a 9 port controller sold separately. This controller plugs in to a 5V addressable RGB header on the motherboard. I know ThermalMike mentioned the limitation of motherboard software with the number of addressable LEDs. I believe it's in the 200s, and if you had 9 Riing Trios hooked up you would be at 270 addressable LEDs. 2. There should not be a difference between using the Y splitter vs. the bridge cable. Both should provide the same functionality. 3. Whether you use the Y splitter or the bridge cable, each controller needs its own molex power.
  19. Your controller is a five port one, correct? If so, it should connect to a 9 pin USB 2.0 header. I believe you two cables; a 9 pin usb 2.0 to micro usb and a 9 pin usb 2.0 Y cable that goes to two micro usb ends. The micro usb end should plug into your controller.
  20. I would say a majority of people still us air cooling for their PCs. You have to get liquid coolers with larger radiators for them to noticeably outperform air coolers. Modern processors are all designed to slow down their processing if they get too hot, to prevent from frying. If your CPU comes with a cooler, start with that and see if your temperatures get too hot. Most likely, if you don't plan to overclock, you shouldn't need anything more.
  21. One intake and one exhaust is probably the bare minimum you would want in a standard desktop PC build. Ideally, to maximize airflow/cooling, you would put a fan in every open spot. One thing to to do is make sure you have either balanced pressure or slightly positive pressure. Balanced pressure means your air intake matches your exhaust; the best way to ensure this is to have all the same model of fans. Positive pressure would be having more intake than exhaust. Having more exhaust than intake can cause higher temperatures and dust buildup.
  22. The controllers don't detect empty ports on their own. So your solution should be to simply set device 3 on controller 2 to not in use, and the warning should go away. Also change the other two from "Lumi Plus" to "Pure Plus" and you should be all set.
  23. The amount of work depends on the type of liquid cooling you wish to do. If you get a simple all-in-one (AIO) cooler everything comes pre-assembled: pump and water block are together as one unit, hoses run from that directly to the radiator, and the unit is already filled with liquid. You will simply mount the waterblock/pump combined unit to your CPU socket and then mount the radiator and fans somewhere on your case. The units are designed to be permanently sealed to be maintenance free. Custom loops involve more individual parts: water block, pump, reservoir, radiator, tubing, fittings, liquid. If you go with hard tubes over soft tubes you will need to put more time into properly heating up and bending the tubing so that it matches up with the parts. Also, this method will require periodical adding and completely changing out of your cooling liquid. Your components won't produce any less heat; the objective is to more efficiently dissipate the heat so that your components won't reach as high of a temperature. I've only done AIO units, so I can't speak for the noise level of custom units. But my AIO doesn't produce any noise that is audible over my fans. So the noise will be dependent on your radiator fans.
  24. If it's already running in the taskbar and you run it from the start menu it probably just pulled up the instance already running. Did you try completely exiting out of the software and starting it up fresh just to make sure?
  25. Maybe with two individual headers you will be fine, but I know they were not designed with the use case of having more than one hooked up to a PC. Try it with using both 5V headers and see what your results are.
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