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AlexanderFuSheng

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Everything posted by AlexanderFuSheng

  1. Just a quick picture of the 3rd set of T.T. Quad fans - the middle 4 to the left of the pump. I seriously cannot believe I spent $550 - this covid definitely got to me, if not in the strictest sense. I hope you are all holding up well against the horrible pandemic, as well as the high prices brought on by it. T.T. TublAR 4X 1000MM TUBING WENT UP $7 PER PACK TO $32 (oops, caps lock! doh!) - it is insane and very aggravating how much everything shot up in price. I'm just glad I bought 95% of my build before the new year. I had problems this time with the T.T. RGB fittings, had to go back to the non RGB C-Pro fitting - they are fantastic, easy to use. I think Thermaltake should incorporate the C-Pro design with the RGB lumen circle in the T.T. RGB fittings. I could most likely design it myself if someone could produce it. This pic is dark so you can just see the lighting - all of it is Thermaltake (I really dig my PSU - iRGB 1000W. I didn't think I'd like the fan in it because I like the Quads best, but the Duofan inside (140mm) is really nice, Someday someone (!) has to design a PSU with a Clear top - or even the whole box clear so we see the insides, that would be awesome. So, here we have 12 T.T. Quad 120mm, a T.T. MX 100 water block, a iRGB 1000w PSU and a PR 32 - D5 pump, which I also think is a great pump for RGB. It would have also included T.T. fittings, but as I said, they gave me a hard time so for now they are back in the box until more tubing arrives. Still need measuring practice!!!!
  2. Your posts are sh*t. original poster and Daddybeee made great points, you and the other jerkoff (elysia) are total troll scum.
  3. The 'RGB' button at the top of T.T. RGB plus is for syncing PSU's to the 1,2,3,4 buttons. If you put it on, your PSU (If it is the right type) will sync to the setting you choose from 1 to 4. If you shut it off, it won't sync with RGB plus. I have an irgb 1000w and it syncs with RGB plus or another program whose name I don't remember (D- something).
  4. I've had the 'red on only 1 side' problem also. the only thing I can say is the wires aren't very sturdy - sucks it has Molex instead of SATA for power. Sometimes 1 (or all) of the 4 molex pins will push out the top of the wire instead of all 4 fitting into the female end on the PSU wire, i'd check to make sure all are in properly. Also, the controller is a bit flimsy, make sure the three 9 pin wires are fully pushed down into the controller - maybe switch up fitting pairs while testing. I've had the exact problem, I wish I could give a better answer on how to fix it, but best bet is play around with the wires a bit to make sure they have proper connections. If none of that works, #RMA the parts back to Thermaltake. They are pretty good about replacing broke stuff like the wires. Are you using other T.T. products with controllers like fans, pump, waterblock....etc? Also make sure the 9 pin double wire is in a decent USB header. All simple things for sure, but they can really be a pain in the #### if every little thing isn't perfect - especially with these specific wires. I really wish they were sturdier. I'm sure you'll get it with a bit of switching around and checking that the wires are connected okay. otherwise send it back for a new one. They can even send a new one right out and put a hold on your credit card until the broken parts are sent back, then they take the hold off. That worked well for me a few times. These parts are, unfortunately, a bit brittle. Good luck again!
  5. Each fitting gets 1 wire. then you connect 1 wire to another fitting wire - then you use 1 of the 3 small wires included to hook up to 2 fittings, this was you should have 3 sets of 2 fittings that will take up 3 spaces in the controller. Basically it should be 3 sets of 2 fittings (top, bottom) each fitting gets 1 wire, then connects to it's partner's fitting wire, then gets a small wire that goes to the controller. (each wire for the fittings has male and female in order to hook up to the fitting and the partner fitting's wire, then the small wire. Hope that helps.
  6. Try this email address, it has worked well for me in the past. support@thermaltakeusa.zendesk.com Also, try filling out an RMA request here. This also has worked well for me. Thermaltake - Service Center
  7. The curved part of the broken piece will face the same direction as the other end that plugs into the controller top side. With the controller facing up, plug the molex end into the controller - flattren out the wire so it isn't twisted, then put the curved to of the broken piece on it facing up like the piece in the comtroller best I can do.
  8. Yep, that happened to me also - on just about all the Molex wires I was sent. Best suggestion I can make is, put the plastic piece over the 4 pins, then push each one in from the top of the specific pin wire from 1 to 4. as long as each pin gets in to the hole, it should work. Usually when 1 of the pins doesn't make complete contact in the hole is when you have problems. ....but they do need to make them a bit sturdier.
  9. Almost finished, tubing to be done today....I hope.
  10. ..... It was thanks to Ken @ Aaro Computer Services (Portland, Oregon). He had one, as he owns a business and he sold it to me for a very fair price, and was a true gentleman who kept in contact until it arrived, in the condition he said - un opened! The case looks beautiful, just ordered a 2nd radiator, now need a waterblock for a 1660 super - any ideas? Thanks again, Ken! If anyone does business with him, they are in good hands!
  11. I have a View 71, like it and had it for a few years, but I went and change to a P5, and now a P7. If you go with the View 71, I'd try to get the RGB version. The one thing I didn't like about my V 71 was the riing fans that came with it. They have much better fans now and it will be easier to control the rgb with the button built into the front i/o.
  12. I got a bad riser cable with my P5. I was told I could RMA it, but it is such a bad design, I asked for a 20$ credit and I would buy the $80 one that is the top of the line. The crappy one cost 30$ I asked for a 20$ credit. They said no. I would have took 15$ - even 10$ - just something as a gesture......still don't understand that one.
  13. Watch out for the molex wire from the controller - sometime when you push it in to the molex wire on the PSU, it will pop out the back instead of going in and might be hard to notice. I'm still having crazy problems, but once I got the bridge cables going well. had the controller buttons set for controller & 2 (73 &4...), it worked a bit better though still buggy.
  14. Quit school, grow you're hair, start a rock n roll band. none of this drake, weekend rap ####.
  15. My controllers are nuts also. I'm using 4 - Fans, water block, pump, and fittings. I just left the back of the case of (Core P5 ) and I have it to when is freezes up, I just reach back unplug then plug back in the mini HDMI going from USB 9 pin to the fan controller (fan 1 of 4), then it work for a while.....so far it's been okay all day! The molex wires, and other thin wires (make sure the small wires into the female 9 pin USB are okay) in the equipment make it difficult. I had a case where the 4 molex pin instead of going into the PSU molex, they were pushed back so no connection was made, also trying to bridge the 2 different controllers was a pain (one marked 'temp', comes with water block and also RGB pump/res). The Fan/fittings controllers have different bridge wire. Whatever the situation, I just hope the bugs get fixed soon. Good luck.
  16. I'll be honest with you, even before the debacle in the Suez Canal, I'm willing to bet the company was having trouble getting items into markets due to Covid. There are a lot of parts I want to buy, but can't get either. There are a million of 1 type of case in stores like micro Center but none of anything else. T.T. is really under represented in a store like that, especially water cooling. Corsair has a hard tube demo system planted on the wall with all the bells and whistles, T.T. is lucky if they have a 360 radiator A.I.O. For Thermaltake - 1st this Covid needs to get under control, move that #### Empire State Building blocking the Suez Canal, and get stuff to market! And vary up what the stores sell. And don't 'end of line' your best case!!!!! (The Core P7 of course). I do have the P5 and I think I like my P32 D-5 pump/res, but haven't seen the plates in person. if i'm lucky to ever get my P7, maybe I'll try one.
  17. It is amazing how this thread and my offer to help has been ignored. This could have been a great site and asset to Thermaltake builders but the SPAM is too much and no one that Administrates or moderates seems to care. I just can't sift through the CBD garbage and the C unts made spew it, so good luck. No wonder this site is a wasteland compared to other sites that would NEVER allow this ####. It is just lazy and embarrassing for whoever runs it.
  18. This sh its's getting nuts, 1st thread on page says "listen to your customers" - and it's about keto! this is almost more of a keto spam site than a T.T. site! Take up my offer and let me clean this place up! I got the time and the inclination to do it! Don't need any other powers, just 1 touch ban and clean for the spammers, block them out of existence!
  19. This is just fantastic. You have serious skills, much respect. I wonder what you could have done with the Core P7. I have the P5, like it. It would look much better with the precision tubing you did!
  20. This is 3D printed? If so, that's insane. I don't know much about it and so I don't understand the acronyms or word contractions. Man, if that is what it is, then maybe I could get the side panels made for the Core P7 since it seems like it will never be for sale again! Putting the P7 out of production would be a bad move, imo, as no one makes a case like that, it separated T.T. from others companies chassis wise. Great job, original poster!
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